Violet

lat. Viola odorata

Group: Flowers

Odor profile: earthy, powdery scent that resembles iris rhizome when talking about the flower; metallic, green and aqueous when talking about the leaf

Violet (Viola odorata), also called Sweet Violet, grows in the Mediterranean regions and Asia Minor. Its delicate purple, white, or variegated flowers appear early in spring, even before trees grow leaves. Violet is well known for its sweet floral scent, but also for its wide variety of therapeutic properties: It helps fighting colds, asthma, rheumatic pains and a range of infections (including syphilis). Violet was the symbol of ancient Athens and was one of Napoleon Bonaparte's favourite flowers. In the 19th century, violet-based perfumes were very popular.

The scent of violet flowers is different than the scent of the leaves. The flower possesses a sweet powdery, woody-floral scent which is due to ionones in the flower. These ionones were first separated from Parma violets by Tiemann and Kruger in 1893. The discovery of ionones triggered the successful production of synthetic violet notes identical in scent and less expensive as the precious natural oil. Nowadays, ionones and methyl ionones are used in almost every perfume. The scent palette of ionones ranges from aromas of fresh violet in blossom to mild woody and sweet floral nuances. Methyl ionones possess a stronger woody nuance, similar to iris.

Violet aromas can be found in the following fragrances:
Angel Garden Of Stars - Violette Angel (Thierry Mugler)
Ultraviolet (Paco Rabanne)
April Violets (Yardley)
Black Violet
La Violette (Annick Goutal)
Verte Violette (L'Artisan Parfumeur)
Violette Precieusse (Caron) - created in 1913, launched again in 1999, and re-launched in 2007
Oscar Violet (Oscar de la Renta)
Caprice Violette (Lolita Lempicka)

The scent of violet leaves is different from the scent of the flowers. The leaves give off an intensively green aroma which is resembles mowed grass combined with a hint of cucumber. In the South of France two kinds of violets are cultivated mainly for their leaves - Parma and Victoria. The fresh scent of violet leaves is an integral component in many fragrance compositions, ranging from fresh floral to oriental spicy and fougere. The aromas of violet leaf are, for example, part of the compositions of L by Gwen Stefani, Dior's Fahrenheit, Annick Goutal's La Violette and Dona Karan's Be Delicious. In Be Delicious the fresh, green note of violet leaves with the characteristic cucumber nuance is quite intensive and plays an important part in the "construction" of the green apple scent.

The violet root is has therapeutic properties and is used in traditional medicine, but not as a perfume component. Although it can often be found in the description of perfume compositions, violet root has nothing to do with violet. This accords is actually iis root.

Its natural scent is not too intensive and is reminiscent of a violet scent, which is where the name comes from. The "false" violet root, or rather iris root, is a component in many fragrances. It gives off a woody-floral aroma and, at the same time, it is a very good fixative. It can be found in Pleasures for Men and Boss Woman.

Photos by cygnus921, Khaz, dolorix, --Tico--, lemurdillo