Violet Leaf

lat. Viola odorata

Group: Grass and Green Components

Odor profile: metallic smelling, green and aqueous note that is common in modern masculine and unisex fragrances, providing a fresher and non-retro note compared to traditional sweet violet

Violet (Viola odorata), also called Sweet Violet, grows in Mediterranean regions and Asia Minor. Its delicate purple, white, or variegated flowers appear early in the spring, even before the trees grow leaves. Violet is well known for its sweet floral scent, but also for its wide variety of therapeutic properties: It helps fight colds, asthma, rheumatic pains and a range of infections (including syphilis). Violet was the symbol of ancient Athens and was one of Napoleon Bonaparte's favorite flowers. In the 19th century, violet-based perfumes were very popular.

The scent of violet flowers is different from the scent of the leaves. The flower possesses a sweet powdery, woody-floral scent which is due to the ionones in the flower. These ionones were first separated from Parma violets by Tiemann and Kruger in 1893. The discovery of ionones triggered the successful production of synthetic violet notes which are identical in scent but less expensive than the precious natural oil. Nowadays, ionones and methyl ionones are used in almost every perfume. The scent palette of ionones ranges from aromas of fresh violet in blossoms to mild woody and sweet floral nuances. Methyl ionones possess a stronger woody nuance, similar to iris.

Violet aromas can be found in the following fragrances:
Angel Garden Of Stars - Violette Angel (Thierry Mugler)
Ultraviolet (Paco Rabanne)
April Violets (Yardley)
Black Violet
La Violette (Annick Goutal)
Verte Violette (L'Artisan Parfumeur)
Violette Precieusse (Caron) - created in 1913, launched again in 1999, and re-launched in 2007
Oscar Violet (Oscar de la Renta)
Caprice Violette (Lolita Lempicka)

The scent of violet leaves is different from the scent of the flowers. The leaves give off an intensively green aroma which resembles mowed grass combined with a hint of cucumber. In the South of France two kinds of violets are cultivated mainly for their leaves—Parma and Victoria. The fresh scent of violet leaves is an integral component in many fragrance compositions, ranging from fresh floral to oriental spicy and fougere fragrances. The aromas of violet leaf are, for example, part of the compositions of L by Gwen Stefani, Dior's Fahrenheit, Annick Goutal's La Violette and Donna Karan's Be Delicious. In Be Delicious the fresh, green note of violet leaves with the characteristic cucumber nuance is quite intensive and plays an important part in the "construction" of the green apple scent.

The violet root is has therapeutic properties and is used in traditional medicine, but not as a perfume component. Although it can often be found in the description of perfume compositions, violet root has nothing to do with violet. This accord is actually iris root.

The natural scent of iris is not too intense, and it is reminiscent of violet, which is where the name comes from. The "false" violet root, or rather iris root, is a component in many fragrances. It oozes a woody-floral aroma and, at the same time, it is a very good fixative. It can be found in Pleasures for Men and Boss Woman.

Photos by cygnus921, Khaz, dolorix, --Tico--, lemurdillo