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Smart, Craft and Sharp are three fragrances with a unique concept – created through collaboration between Icelandic artist Andrea Maack and a French perfume house.
Sharp is a scent that holds a story, a multifaceted fairytale. The different notes are piled in layers, and each one is only briefly exposed. Flower petals resting on matt, white paper, on skin as pale as snow, a note of something medical, sharp, poisonous, narcotic. The "poison" note is very subtle, and gives Sharp an un-expected character and makes it very unlike most scents. Sharp is in a way beyond comfort, softness and smooth vanilla, but a scent that demands attention while wearing it.
Notes: orange blossom, angel skin, sweet vanilla, white musk, soothing softness.
It is available as 50 ml EDP.
Sharp was launched in 2010.
For me this is the best one among all the others from Andrea Maack.
I expected this EdP to be … well … sharp, full of aldehydes and galbanum, or something of the sort, but it’s not. In fact, it’s the exact opposite. It’s soft and matte, more a light woody vanilla gourmand than anything else. It’s like white almond nougat, mostly just sugary sweet with traces of egg white, toasted almond and vanilla. What makes it different is the woody aspect, as if it had been made in an oak barrel.
The whole thing is underscored by white musks, not obtrusive, but filling out the composition. After my initial encounter I read the list of notes, which are pretty much in line with what I smelled, except for the orange blossom, which is minimal at best. In the end, it just ends up as a standard-issue vanilla musk with moderate sillage and longevity.
I was liking this gourmand musk scent a fair amount until I read the manufacturer’s list of notes and found out that it's a sort of celebrity perfume made for an Icelandic artist I had never heard of by an unnamed perfumer working for an anonymous commercial French manufacturer, and lists silly notes like “angel skin” and “soothing softness”. Am I missing some intended absurdist artistic irony in calling a perfume full of “soothing softness” “Sharp”? In any case, when I first tried it, the concept evoked a complete blog post on silly perfume notes. It did not make me want a bottle of Sharp.
Whilst I prefer this to Craft, it's a little too sweet for me. I just get a strong waft of chocolate.
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