1681 Carthusia for men

1681 was quite a good surprise for me even if I'm not particularly fond of Carthusia's fragrances. An iris driven opening pleasantly leaning towards the waxy side (lipstick) and enriched by herbs (rosemary), lavender and musk. The frankincense note is remarkably present throughout adding some depth expecially in the middle phase. Woody patterns and hints of neroli/bergamot enhance the classic aspect of this "modern" masculine composition.

Overall 1861 is quite an unique fragrance that's at the same time very wearable yet anything but silly. Distinctive and discreet, classic and modern, "serious". If you happen to visit italy don't miss the chance to check Carthusia's fragrances as they sell way much cheaper than overseas. Very nice.

Rating: 7.5/10

1681 is nice - it opens with a waxy orris blast along with some petitgrain and herbs. The orris smells most like that from Xerjoff's Modoc, but for those who haven't smelled it, imagine a fuller and more waxy smelling take on Dior Homme's Iris note, or the waxy-ish orris of the opening of Traversee du Bosphore minus the fruits.

To me, everything that happens in the fragrance happens underneath this slightly waxy haze that persists through the life of the fragrance. This isn't a bad thing per se, it's just.. unique. After the greenish petitgrain and herbs fade from the opening the scent becomes primarily a waxy, iris lavender and cedar. It calls to mind Tam Dao to some extent, although a hint waxier, and with the addition of the lavender note.

Longevity is good and sillage is moderate. It has that "modernized old world" feel to it. A classical structure that is interpreted for modern tastes. A nice scent, although the late drydown becomes quite one dimensional and that may be the deal breaker for me. The top to early heart phase is extraordinary, though. I wish they'd raise the cost if necessary and add some more substance and dimension to the base.