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Jun Takahashi, the designer of the cult fashion house Undercover, is famous for his dolls, called Graces, made of metal, exotic fabrics, teddy bears, light blubs and other materials. First two perfumes by Undercover are created in partnership with Comme des Garçons.
Holygrace is the fragrance dedicated to the “mother doll” and it is described as “a perfume of elegance, soap freshness and poison”, with its notes of bergamot, pink pepper, purple ginger, cardamom, jasmine, incense, broom, red pepper, vanilla, amber, vetiver and styrax.
It is available as 50 ml EDT.
For some reason I was expecting something papal, church-incensy and spiritual with a name like Holygrace, but it was not to be. Images of the mutilated doll in the first Toy Story movie did come to mind though after reading the description.
The fragrance opens with fresh ginger and earthy spices which has a purifying quality.
Jasmine (in description but missing from the pyramid of notes) and a touch of vanilla and incense then enter to add a little sweetness.
The drydown is rooty and soft with just a shadow of a powdery flower petal.
This was today, during daylight.
Yesterday when I tried it for the first time it was all dry spice and rather acrid. Maybe because it was after dark while the doll's demonic spirit was awake. It was more woody like Pinocchio in Geppetto's musty old puppet shop.
Interesting to say the least. I'm undecided on this one too.
I've tried this one several times, and while I'm not interested in wearing this scent I find it fascinating.
Holygrace is evolving on my skin, and feels classic in its layered construction. But the stages I sense smells to me absolutely modern, verging on futuristic.
The initial almost girly scent of ambery flowers becomes challenged with smoky notes of incense, pepper and aromatic cardamom. What dolls come to mind? The sweet pink dolls you find rolling their eyes in scary movies. Doesn't mean this scent is ever unpleasant, but the different notes form a drama of contradictions and suggestions to me. Drama enough to make me doubt if there is room for another person here (- like the wearer). The final stage on my skin is a powdery ginger, with an pinch of vanilla and pepper in its company. Interesting!
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