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Jun Takahashi, the designer of the cult fashion house Undercover, is famous for his dolls, called Graces, made of metal, exotic fabrics, teddy bears, light blubs and other materials. First two perfumes by Undercover are created in partnership with Comme des Garçons.
Holygrapie is the scent of “baby doll”, subtle, gentle and silky, with its notes of purple ginger, mandarin, rhubarb, black pepper, iris, incense, ylang-ylang, nutmeg, Australian sandalwood, cedar, patchouli, styrax and vetiver.
It is available as 50 ml EDT.
For starters, to my nose, this fragrance smells nothing like babies nor dolls. Dolls have more of a powdery and synthetic smell to them, which I don't get a lot of in this composition.
I like the concept, even though I don't actually understand Takahashi's work. The scent doesn't seem to match his outrageous style. I find Holygrapie intriguingly unique and fascinating, but it's not particularly arty or crafty.
Holygrapie is a rather fresh iris scent with fruity nuances and fizzy ginger. There's a touch of sweetness every now and then, but all in all, it's relatively light and flirtatious.
This fragrance has a composition that slightly resembles something from a by-gone era, like the 1800's or early 1900's. I can't see how Holygrapie pays homage to the alien like doll that it is said to inspire.
I really liked the fun and frivolous nature of the top notes, with the iris having an occasional sweet tangerine accord, further complimented by spicy and peppery rhubarb and ginger. I was looking forward to an earthy drydown, however this fragrance faded quickly into a strange and musty woods blend with a synthetic edge.
I was disappointed and annoyed to say the least. In most cases, Comme Des Garcons, despite being a brand that uses unnatural ingredients, usually comes up with something that smells fantastic from beginning to end. Holygrapie was lacking in last strength and quality I'm afraid, even though the top notes were quite impressive.
The pepper is the most prominent note for the first 15 minutes or so, then I can smell purple Ginger, a soft rhubarb and iris. It kind of does now remind me of a dolls head, I think the iris gives a slightly plasticky ( in a good way) feel. This scent is not bad but won't appeal to everyone. At first it seems sharp and masculine until the pepper dies down.
This is not "subtle" or "silky!" Who are they kidding? It's green, spicy & earthy. Okay, over time it's more subtle - not an "in-your-face" fragrance - but I ordered a sample of this from Luckyscent really expecting a "baby doll" kind of scent. You know, light & powdery, yadda yadda...maybe Japanese dolls are different than American? I should have paid more attention to the listed notes. I dumped this on and was overwhelmed with the scent of...herbal house cleaner. It was startling.
I re-read the description, thinking I had made a mistake. So I figured - it'll calm down, give it time...it did not change. It is not light or sweet, but is sharp green with spicy ginger & pepper, and a hint of smoke all over woody cedar. This would make an excellent men's cologne. And don;t even think about wearing this in hot weather. Slightly bitter; unfortunately, still smells too much like cleaner for me to enjoy wearing. Oh well, that's what samples are for.
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