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Mata Hari is a new fragrance arising from the collaboration of DSH Perfumes with Natural Perfumers Guild. It is launched in 15th November 2010 as a part of the Outlaw project in which many banned natural ingredients are used.
Margaretha Zelle or Mata Hari was an exotic dancer and notorious double spy in World War I; a true femme fatale. Dawn Spencer Hurwitz was inspired by the Mata Hari movie starring Greta Garbo and by the perfumes of the early twentieth century. She chose a fruity chypre composition to evoke the memory of the popular perfumes of 1920s Paris with notes that reflect the character of the woman she was inspired by; fruits reflecting the sensuality that Mata Hari possessed, and moss and leather symbolizing her power and sexuality.
Mata Hari is a modern chypre fragrance with juicy fruits on a masculine leather background. There are also notes of vintage orchid and lilac, which were also very popular back in those days. Fruits of the opening are not subtle or concealed; Mata Hari approaches directly, she is a woman who knows what she wants. The perfume is based on the four natural botanical accords: fruit chord, lilac accord, vintage orchid and leather.
Top notes: bergamot, coriander, fruity notes No.1 (botanical accord), green mandarin, neroli, orange blossom, sweet orange, blood orange, tarragon.
Heart: blackcurrant, champaca, cinnamon, cloves, lilac cocktail (botanical accord), Moroccan rose, orris root, marigold, davana, may rose, otto rose, osmanthus, nutmeg, angelica root, honey, Sambac jasmine, tuberose, vintage orchid ( botanical accord).
Base: sandalwood, ambrette seed, peru balm, cumin, cedar, myrrh, tobacco, benzoin, Buddah wood, cassis bud, labdanum, patchouli, green oak moss, vetiver, leather (botanical accord), musk, tonka, cade, vanilla.
DSH Perfumes Mata Hari is available as 15 ml perfume extract and as 5 ml perfume.
Top Notes
Middle Notes
Base Notes
This has all the notes I want in a perfume, but I can't find it anywhere, including the maker's website. Anybody out there have any clues where it might be found?
I`m curious about it but where I can find it in Europe?
Perhaps one of the most enigmatic figures from the turn of the twentieth century, Mata Hari is a name that evokes intrigue, mystery, sensuality and (more than anything else) the term "femme fatale". The woman who became known as Mata Hari (her exotic dancer name) was, in fact, NOT a double agent for ANY country in World War I (she was cleared by the French government in the mid-eighties); and was used as a scapegoat by those who were jealous (or appalled) by her strong free will and capricious lifestyle. The movie of the same name (starring Greta Garbo) was based on some historical facts, but largely fictional; while being very entertaining. The ideal of Mata Hari (a sexy, dangerous double agent, who just happened to be an exotic dancer and courtesan, crossing nations and gaining the trust of two governments) is indeed a wonderful one. Dawn Spencer Hurwitz has captured that essence very well here. Elegantly constructed, using a myriad of notes to emulate the complex persona of Mata Hari while remaining entirely natural AND using "outlaw" ingredients (something of which Mata Hari herself would be proud) to create a complex and stunning parfum...
To even begin to describe this perfume through individual notes is folly, as it has been skillfully comprised of 39 notes (four of which are botanical blends). Careful, if you look too close or analyze it too deeply...you miss its intrinsic beauty. The best way to experience this is to apply and let her mystify and captivate you. It is like watching an exquisite odalisque dance provocatively, revealing just enough to keep you interested without becoming vulgar or trashy. It is obvious that there is a lot going on here, but this perfume is not "muddy" or thick and strange like many "naturals" can be. It is multi-faceted and exceedingly gorgeous, creating a work of true ALCHEMY: turning the "lead" of many common raw ingredients into pure (parfum) gold! This begins with a thick accord that is at once, ever so slightly, spicy but fresh and fruity. Sharp sweet and succulent citruses, their blooms and dried herbs are woven into a gauzy chemise type of robe that is colorful and catches your attention, as it billows gracefully, with its intensity and its sheer beauty. This is the costume in which she is dressed when she takes the stage. As the layers come off (to an undulating beat and haunting melody) she begins to show more of herself yes, but keeps some hidden as well, naughtily tantalizing you. The heart of Mata Hari is a blend of sheer floral femininity, dry spices (that hint at her inner "fire") and oriental blossoms (such as orchids and champaca) evoking the mystery of the Far East. Here she is open, every aspect of womanhood is being displayed: light innocent beauty, carnal sensuality, loving sweetness, amazing strength, a rather sharp (yet sassy) wittiness and a cool green earthiness...she is divine!! She is all women, she is ALL woman...she is Mata Hari and there will never be another. The dry down (aka The REAL Mata Hari) is actually very masculine, yet sultry. It reminds me of one of those independent strong-minded ladies who was not afraid to barge into the "Old Boys Club" and have a brandy and cigar with the men! (Unheard of in those days) Warm, woody, musky, smoky and resinous; she let's it all hang out, unafraid of judgement and able to hold her own and outshine them all. It is a true chypre in how it unfolds from fresh to floral to earthy. Despite the obvious metaphor to the actual historical figure and an exotic dancer, do not let this review make you think this is just for the ladies! NO WAY...this perfume has more "balls" than anything on the market today, men's OR women's. I have sniffed many perfumes based on historical times, persons and eras, I can say (without a second thought) that DSH has captured the ideal, the persona and the essence of not only Mata Hari and her aura, but created something that is utterly unique, stunning and "to die for". This perfume is haunting, it is amazing, it is...MAGNIFICENT!
Sillage: Good
Longevity: Amazing
Overall: 5/5 A True Masterpiece
Available only in perfume and perfume extract, this is definitely strong, but never overpowering. It projects just enough to give that "come hither" aura to it while making others go: "Wow! What smells so good?". It lasts for a very very long time and with each successive sniff of my wrist (and there have been many!) I am always greeted with some new note, accord or aroma to savor. It has many sides and many faces and takes multiple wearings to really understand and appreciate it. This review is the fourth time I have worn this, and I have only scratched the surface here, folks! My 1 ml sample is going to be gone soon. I look forward to getting the 5 ml Perfume after the holidays (what better use for Christmas cash?) and eventually (should it still be available) acquiring the 15 ml Perfume Extract. I have a very large collection and my tastes change from day to day, I can say; however, that this is something I will keep coming back to again and again. I am enchanted, I am under its spell...I am "hooked"!
In one review DSH's Mata Hari was called a masterpiece. The more I wear it the more I think that to be true! First I bought a small sample, then a 5 ml flask and then I just had to buy the 15ml. I can't get enough of it. I am always surprised and pleased by the progression of the fragrance as I go through my day. It amazes me that Dawn Spencer Hurwitz was able to include so many notes and accords and still have everything work so well together as each element reveals itself individually and collectively. Brava!
In a recent interview, right here on Fragrantica, Lubin owner Gilles Thevenin said,"Don’t forget that what you smell from old bottles doesn’t correspond at all with what the perfume used to smell when it was fresh. After a few years time, aldehydes turn into vinegar, and many flowery or citrus notes turn bad as well. You might like it because it smells like 'old times,' but ladies 50 year ago were wearing fresh bright musky fragrances as well."
A whiff of Mata Hari takes me back to this quote. It is like a long-lost bottle that escaped the ravages of time; a 50-year-old bottle of classic perfume whose bergamot has not gone sour, and whose oak moss has not gone stale.
After an initial head-shop blast of patchouli and smoke, Mata Hari reveals crisp fruit notes and fine leather. The leather smolders and sparkles simultaneously. I imagine that the unanticipated brightness projected by this blend is just what is lost in those precious bottles that have survived the decades, slightly corrupted by air. I don't know if it is the outlaw ingredients, the expert balance, or both, but Mata Hari makes me think of a vintage clothing store with all its glimmer, none of its musty smell.
Fruity chypre fans, lovers of leather, smoke aficionados, perfumery purists: try this.
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