It's hard to say where the current era of fragrances began exactly, but I'll wager 1988 to be the closest date. You could say that Green Irish Tweed (1985) kind of helped to usher in the current era, as it still smells modern as ever, but I feel like 1988 is when things really began to take off.
I mean, come on, Fahrenheit, Cool Water, Eternity, New West? All in the same year? Perfumers knew a change was on the way, and the 80's weren't even over yet.
Among the most influential fragrances launched in 1988 is Fahrenheit, which could probably be placed among the top ten most influential men's fragrances ever. For YEARS I disliked this one, and never really gave it a fair chance. The "motor oil" smell turned me off, which is strange, considering how I've always loved the smell of the gas station. Maybe it was the fact that I was reminded more of an oil-stained shirt.
However, I've been giving Fahrenheit more and more chances lately, and I'm finally starting to see why the stuff is so popular. First and foremost, Fahrenheit was the first fragrance after Grey Flannel to really utilize violet leaves. Green Irish Tweed used them, but that's more of an ambergris/verbena fragrance. Grey Flannel's violet accord is a bit too putrid, vegetal, and abrasive to my liking. Fahrenheit really smoothed out violet leaf, which is one of the most distinctive notes in all of perfumery. It can have green elements (grassy), fruity elements (think bananas or cucumbers), and oily-gaseous facets. Fahrenheit famously exhibits the oily-gaseous facets, and also features a prominent cardamom note, which is also pretty influential (cardamom, at least to me, has an apple pie kinda smell, and it dominates fragrances such as Paco XS and YSL L'Homme).
So, the central accords I get out of Fahrenheit are violet leaf, cardamom, nutmeg, and a warm, slightly rubbery leather. Something else that makes Fahrenheit unique is the weird balance of clean and dirty. Not only can it give off the aroma of warm, freshly-washed male skin, but the oily, rubbery, gaseous aroma also sticks out. Creating a balance like that requires a lot of talent that not even many fragrances today can replicate.
Fahrenheit CAN smell dated if too much is applied. I remember about a year ago walking into the restroom at the grocery store, and a gentleman walked past me wearing too much Fahrenheit. Even though this man looked be only in his early 40's, clean-shaven, with pristinely slicked-back hair, the overapplication Fahrenheit made him smell old and perverted. So, make no mistake, Fahrenheit IS a strong fragrance and it does last a while, but if you apply it just correctly, it can be a crowd pleaser.
I'd feel weird wearing Fahrenheit with a suit and tie. I find it more casual than anything else.
Finally, I'll touch up on the reformulation. As of 2012, Fahrenheit is on its fourth reformulation, with a recent box and cap redesign. Dior has been known lately for their pretty rough reformulations (Miss Dior, Diorissimo, Dioressence, Poison, and Eau Sauvage have been fucked up pretty badly), but Fahrenheit has managed to stay pretty faithful to the original. It's a lot sweeter than it used to be, with more cardamom, and a sweeter, less dirty violet leaf. My nose is VERY sensitive to violet leaf, and thus, I personally prefer the original formulation, in the box with solid contrast between blue, red, and gold. The current stuff is good, but I'd recommend the vintage... it can still be found. The vintage stuff is less sweet and more balanced.
Either way, I'm glad to finally have an understanding with Fahrenheit, and will probably end up snagging a first formulation bottle soon.
As a final note, Jean-Paul Guerlain has said that Fahrenheit is one of the few modern masculines worthy of being called a "masterpiece". With someone as legendary as Jean-Paul Guerlain saying that, I'd definitely take notice.
May
09
2012