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The third fragrance of the Private Collection was created by Aerin Lauder in honour of her late grandmother, Estee Lauder, and the perfume was named Jasmin White Moss. Estee Lauder worked on this fragrance in 1980, but it stayed unfinished.
The perfume arrives on the market in July 2009, and it incorporates: mandarin, black currant buds absolute, Sambac jasmine absolute, bergamot, galbanum, Indian jasmine absolute, orange blossom, ylang-ylang, patchouli, white moss and vetiver. The fragrance is available as 30 and 75ml edp, as well as 30ml parfum. There is also a solid version of the perfume and it will be backed in a box shaped like a luxurious pendant. The nose behind this fragrance is Jean-Marc Chaillan.
This is a difficult review for me to write because I have mixed feelings about this one and I also wanted to fall head over heels in love, but I just couldn't.
Yes, it is most certainly gorgeous, obviously composed of fine ingredients, and sillage and longevity are tops. Beautifully packaged, too. It is complex and earthy, but it isn't the earthy type that agrees with me because it turns sharp(?) on my skin. I'll guess it's one of the following notes: jasmin, patchouli, oakmoss or perhaps just the combination. It doesn't make me rush to scrub it off, but I have this feeling of anticipation for the scent to develop in a way that it just doesn't on me.
It's heady and bold, not a mellow, earthy, woody scent and I think this could be a "style" issue for me- I lean toward the latter. Also, I haven't been wearing perfumes that long and the chypres are a tricky group for me (esp. aldehydes and oak moss)- I want to like them, but maybe (hopefully) my nose is still being "seasoned" to appreciate them.
Even though I don't particularly love it on my own skin, I still have the desire to take the cap off the bottle and inhale... I really do wish I could have worn this!
o how much i vant this beauthy!!extrem good luxury well done like a cristal if a cristal can be smelled .
I am so happy that everybody here agrees on that.
THIS IS A SERIOUSLY GOOD PERFUME.
All that herbal complexity that is mastered so well that in the end it feels simple as clean air, that alpine purity of dark green leaves.
And then you smell the earthiness. The wet ground.
The resins and the vetiver take you to a place where no tricks and charms are needed.
This to me, is peace of mind bottled.
I think that mostly "Estee" or even "Knowing" that I also love, share this calming foresty feeling, but this one is more gentle and citric.
So, no flowery ribbons. No sweetness.
Oakmoss like (sigh) oh, moss.
My mother and one of my best friends wear this wonderful scent. It lingers a lot, and spreads a delicious flower blast at the atmosphere...
Scent - 10/10
Sillage - 10/10
Longevity - 10/10
Hope they never discontinue this.
Incredible, insanely beautiful jasmine floral perfume. Chypre floral? Uh, okay- if you say so...
Sadly not available in the Netherlands. I want to test it how wonderfull it is. If contacted a Perfumestore were i but the Amber Ylang Ylang and Gardenia Tuberose, i hope that they can get it in their collection. Wish me luck.
it smells...expencive! i love it....
Smells lika a vintage jasmine cologne my dad used to bring from the middle-east.
Its also very green and citrusy, its very sharp and fresh. But for me personally, this fragrance is pretty useless. I do like it a lot, but that's mainly because it reminds me of dads old cologne.
Projection : 4/5*
Longevity : 5/5*
Edit: Longevity is the BOMB! Stayed on my skin forever! Its a very elegant scent I must add. I'm liking it more & more.
I wish there was a 'kinda like' or 'growing on me' button.
* A million thanks to nathalieZ for the sample.
you have to sniff it a zillion times to detect the notes for they are perfectly well-blended and that's rare in the perfume world nowadays
as for the scent, i -for one- adore jasmine and violets, patchouli and Ylang-Ylang are sexy and comforting consecutively and i love how they smell but the latter has a very light scent that it almost needs to be alone to be appreciated -i have a Ylang-Ylang shower gel that smells heavenly great; so to my dismay, i didn't detect it in the frag
it has so many woody notes to my delight, and vetiver, can't stress on how much i love vetiver, yepiiiiiiiiiie!! on my skin, no sweetness whatsoever, just green dark (weird combination? but that's how it is) floral fume, at some point, it reminded me so much of Bvlgari Jasmin noir, but the moss in this frag is a wonderful treat ^^
this one is not for the weak-hearted, it's not sweet, floral, yummy, green apple stuff... it's for the chypre, green, dark sexy and pleasantly strong fumes lovers, i simply adore it <3
the longevity is impressive by the way, i expected it to be more impressive though, a couple of hours more won't hurt but i can't complain with a scent like that, this is a unique frag and the sillage is out of this world
This is a wonderful stuff, and smells like a bunch of flowers in the middle of a grass carpet. Despite beeing composed by flowers, this is a very strong fragrance that LASTS DAYS on skin and clothes.
BRAVO!!!!!
The first thing that struck me upon application was MANDARIN. More fruity than citrus. There is a bit of mandarin/orange flower going on here for a long time. The very pretty jasmine shows up in the heart. The drydown is very nice, kind of creamy/nutty, kind of sandalwoody type thing. Medium sillage, a little goes a long way, nice changes in the scent along the way, and good lasting power.
Okay, that being said, if I had to nail this down blind I would pin it as a fruity floral. For me the orange-jasmine is just the most dominant feature. Now, among many the 'fruity floral' thing leaves a bad taste on one's mouth, as it conjures many a sicky-sweet celebuscent aimed at teenagers. This is a tastefully done fruity floral, with fruits that are simply their fruity selves, and not sugared syrupy fruit holograms. The florals are very pretty, and smooth, and rich. There is a gasp of the 'white moss' accord toward the drydown but I don't find it too much.
I like this very much, and I am happy to wear it, but truthfully when I want an oakmossy chypre floral I will reach for Aromatics Elixir or some or the sort. I find the idea of constantly having to 'clean up' types of scents annoying. This is hardly a deep woody mossy scent. It is fruits, florals, and an inoffensive drydown.
I guess what I am saying is that JWM is a totally sanitized perfume that will never offend anyone. Part of my love of old time scents like AE is that they are almost 3D in their composition, while things like a 'modern' chype floral has no comparable personality.
Regardless, I do like this scent for what it is. The jasmine is really beautiful.
A gem! Beauty! I only have the 30 ml but still i love it!!!!!!!
I swear this is a copycat of a legendary oakmoss monster: Chanel's Cristalle. I am a Chanel lover, and when comparing the two perfumes side-by-side, Chanel stands out as being more complex, better crafted, and more beautiful all around. Both perfumes smell a lot like a linden-scented French soap. Although I do love Chanel, I would honestly purchase this perfume over Cristalle because the sillage and projection are far superior. Contrary to what other reviewers have said, it surprises me that this perfume was built around jasmine because I really didn't feel the jasmine was prominent. I live in an area where jasmine is bountiful during the summer. I catch strong whiffs of it constantly. If I didn't know anything about this perfume, you would not be able to convince me that there was jasmine in it. The white moss takes center stage.
I was sent a sample of this gorgeous stuff: Oh my! I smell so good!
When I lived in the UK I had lovely jasmine climbing up a trellis, and that is the strong singing scent I recognised after the first spritz. The scent broadened and I detected the violet and African Orange--but oh! what really makes it is when the balance of the bergamot, galbanum, vetiver and Estee Lauder's special white moss, (developed to replace oak moss) chime in.
It's not too sweet: it's perfectly balanced. The pure clarity of the green notes shines through and compliments the heavenly jasmine.
It is still freezing here and there is nothing like a brisk walk in the icy cold to bring out a scent. Glorious, glorious-- a slice of sun in the snow!
Now I must start saving for a real bottle...
Edited to add: lovely staying power, too.
I don't like jasmine-dominated scents too much - but funnily enough - this one does not seem to be governed by the white flower - in spite of its name. Just received my second bottle of the Eau de Parfum, because it has become one of my absolute favourites. It's elegant, well-balanced, fresh and seems like a mix of my beloved Diorella and the crisp, elegant Christalle by Chanel! You may not find this too exciting, but I for my part are delighted with the staying-power, high quality and sheer beauty of this "Private Collection" fragrance, which I prefer to many other recent perfumes and which is the best Estee Lauder has produced in years!
Despite the 'rave' reviews, and much to my dismay, this fragrance did NOT work well on me! I didn't get any of the mandarin, black currant buds absolute, Sambac jasmine absolute, bergamot, galbanum; I did manage to get a hint of the Indian jasmine absolute, orange blossom, ylang-ylang, patchouli, white moss and vetiver which readily turned into a deep whiff of Crest mint toothpaste! I gifted the mini I bought to someone who will appreciate far more than I!
I have a hit and miss relationship with jasmine, and unfortunately this is a miss. I smell indoles which reminds me of the smell of public restrooms. There is also something very scorched about this scent--like hot bricks or sand that actually caused my eyes to start tearing up.
I love chypre fragrances especially the more fruity ones. I found the floral ones a bit heavy /heady and the contrast between the green- sharp- moss notes and the heavy white florals doesn’t work well with my nose.
However, I found Jasmine White Moss quite appealing and well composed.
There are few modern chypre from Chanel and Dior that I really dislike. All the new regulations and restrictions affected the quality of many perfumes but I think the impact on the chypre family is more than evident. It is unfortunate. There are few trends that try "to play by the rule” and invent new combinations that would replace the old ones, however the new compositions lack balance (in my opinion Miss Dior Cherie and Chance Eau Fraiche are un example).
I found the old constructions very smooth and hard to read (aprox 70% of a chypre composition I can’t really point down to individual notes as they are very well blended). Basically, in many new composition the notes are screaming, playing individual themes with obvious disaccord and no elegance.
I remember the chypre fragrances were consider “chic”, “intellectual”, refined, elegant, etc. Enough of the past.
Jasmine white moss is an exception from this pattern. I understand it is hard to respect the regulations and find replacing notes for the banned oils…but that makes or breaks a “master nose”.
Estee Lauder managed to get this composition right. It still starts strong with separate notes: bergamot, jasmine, galbanum, moss (a special kind, newly created), and vetiver. Lots of noise. But in 15 min everything starts singing the same song: “ I am lovely”.
It is difficult to bring harmony in a chypre, but this is it, the jasmine starts blooming (probably with help from the other floral notes that are less obvious), and stays fresh with orange –bergamot accords and green with a sharp bite (violet, orris, vetiver, moss). After one hour the sharper tones become mellower, the moss is more assertive and the jasmine (a clean and smooth one) reigns the earthy –sweet dry down (patchouli, vetiver, ylang-ylang,).
Surprisingly the bergamot/orange flower notes will stay until the end, sheer and fresh.
Beautiful, refreshing, non-indolic jasmine chypre, very easy to wear.
8.2/10
BTW, maybe somebody from fragrantica has time to correct the notes… at least to replace the oakmoss …
Estee Lauder Private Collection JASMINE WHITE MOSS is a rich and compelling jasmine creation which I can heartily recommend to all and only jasmine lovers.
To be perfectly frank, I am somewhat surprised at how nice this is, in part because of the name--I think that I was expecting some sort of indolic agent of suffocation. In fact, this is a complex and subtle composition comprising high-quality components skillfully combined.
I love, love, love the jasmine here, and it is complemented well by equally appealing moss and galbanum notes, thanks to which the longevity is quite good. I sense that these ELPC edps veer closer to the perfume category than the edt, for the essences seem natural yet the staying power is nonetheless great, even with only light application.
I like JASMINE WHITE MOSS so much that it's going on my wish list, despite my mild aversion to the pretentious "private collection" concept. "Just the scent, Ma'am!" (-:
This fragrance probably would appeal to chypre lovers who aren't necessarily white floral fans- because, in all honesty, all that I smell are green notes from top to bottom, with the exception being a slight floral-woody dry-down- the staying and potency aren't the greatest, in my experience- I didn't get even a whiff of jasmne-
This smells very simillar to cristalle (chanel) and Diorella (Dior).-greener, may be.
I don't necessarily love jasmine but the white moss really makes this scent. On me after it warmed on the skin about an hour, is earthy and calming. I applied the tiniest bit but hours later it still lingers. This is the kind of fragrance you want someone to wear who you plan to hug a lot.
If Private Collection Jasmine White Moss heralds the future of chypres in the post-oakmoss era, you may count on me to sound the trumpet, light the fireworks, lift up the banner and lead the parade. PCJWM is absolutely, positively drop-dead GORGEOUS. Granted, I am predisposed to like any combination of jasmine, bergamot, galbanum and ylang ylang, and I'm at the edge of swooning in pleasure when they're simultaneously warmed by violet and sharpened by vetiver; but add oakmoss and I fall in love and tumble right over into lust. So here I am, all dreamy-eyed, surrounded by a long-lasting sweet mist of violets, incense and moss. There's no leather here whatsoever, but the mood created somehow brings to mind the softness of suede - a pair of gloves in a coat pocket scented by a perfumed lace-trimmed handkerchief.
PCJWM vibrates like harp strings and takes me back to the way my garden sang with a complex dewy and woody freshness in the early morning springtime in Seattle some years ago. No one note pushes to the forefront like a diva claiming the stage for her solo; instead the whole choir huddles together with a hushed intake of breath before lifting their voices to sound the glorious harmony found in the notes of a Hallelujah Chorus.
I've plumbed my scent memory for a similar fragrance and the closest I can come is Scherrer de Scherrer, a 1979 classic, but SdeS has more bitterness, is duskier and is perhaps full-dark compared to PCJWM's early morning brightness. And SdeS has true oakmoss in her formulation whereas Mme. Lauder's granddaughter has taken her grandmother's 1980's recipe and opened the door to the oakmoss-free future with something called "white moss mist". This mysterious ingredient gives me hope that chypres will not become extinct but will instead evolve into more complex creatures.
If you love Diorissimo, especially the vintage, you will love PCJWM. Also lifts my senses in the same bright, sunny, moist, spring-time, green way as original Cristalle edt.
This review is for the pure parfum and not eau de parfum...this smells like crushed leaves through most of its development...I did not get much of a floral note...you have to like very green fragrances to enjoy this one...it's also a mature scent...I prefer scents that are young at heart, romantic, girly, airy, a little sweet...JWM is none of the above...it's well done, it's just not me...I recommend you try eau de parfum instead of parfum b/c the latter has less sillage I heard.
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