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Derby Guerlain for men

Derby Guerlain for men
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Total people voted: 143
female 25- 25+
male 25- 25+

I have it: 131 I had it: 23 I want it: 209 My signature: 6

main accords
woody
fresh spicy
earthy
herbal
leather
aromatic
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Derby Guerlain for men Pictures Derby Guerlain for men Pictures

Derby by Guerlain is a Chypre fragrance for men. Derby was launched in 1985. The nose behind this fragrance is Jean-Paul Guerlain. Top notes are artemisia, mint, bergamot and lemon; middle notes are jasmine, nutmeg flower and rose; base notes are leather, sandalwood, patchouli, oakmoss and vetiver.

Perfume Pyramid

Top Notes
Artemisia Mint Bergamot Lemon

Middle Notes
Jasmine Nutmeg Flower Rose

Base Notes
Leather Sandalwood Patchouli Oakmoss Vetiver

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poor 0
 
weak 1
 
moderate 5
 
long lasting 8
 
very long lasting 8
 

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soft 2
 
moderate 10
 
heavy 12
 
enormous 6
 
This perfume reminds me of  
Derby
15 no yes
Gucci Pour Homme
2 no yes

Derby Fragrance Reviews

VanAllan
VanAllan

A woody-flowery-chypre masterpiece from the former times which managed to retain the glory of this genre: artemisia, rose, jasmine, oakmoss, patchouli and sandalwood are the most evident to my nose, all packed in a natural efortless blending to entertain your nostrils and reminds you how real men's fragrances used to be. Guerlain is one of my preffered houses and its releases never failed me. My humble rank 8/10 ☣☣☣☣.

Jul
09
2014
Colin Maillard
Colin Maillard

Gorgeous, powerful, perfectly-shaped balsamic opening with woody vetiver notes, jasmin (feels more like lavender for me), cloves/eugenol feel, cistus, patchouli, citrus notes. Really bold, dense, warm and masculine, with sweet floral notes and refreshening citrus accents. Elegant, dry, dark leather base emerging as minutes pass. Great, perfect oriental/chypre in the "timeless classic bibles" family of Jicky, Yatagan, Guerlain's Vetiver – and like these, perfectly wearable today.

10/10

Jun
15
2014
Monsieur Aramis
Monsieur Aramis

TOP SCORER: 5 from 5 - 99P (out of 100) – complex spice – Derby is a unique full-scorer. Except Montana Parfum d'homme there is none close to it in its spicy complex notes which are perfectly harmonized in Derby. It always has been an exclusivity for connaisseurs - so the target group always has been small, and the market penetration low. The 80ies brought many good scents, Derby is a candidate for the gold medal. It cannot be understood immediately, it just is too interesting. Roses, sweet nutmeg, sandal, some sage and vétiver, a lot of noble sweet wood rind, some oriental, so incredibly deep and concentrated and long lasting. A milestone in the perfume world and one of the greatest fragrances ever.

May
15
2014
tymanski
tymanski

I just spent €300 on a backup bottle of sealed 25 year old derby. why? cuz it's the greatest - and i mean GREATEST - fragrance ever created, at least to this nose. this 'new' bottle is incredible: the scent has deepened and matured while maintaining its balance and vibrancy. the heady mix of bergamot, pepper, leather and oak moss maintains a discreet sillage with impressive longevity of around 8 hours. as much as i love diaghilev and patou homme, this is my holy grail. jean-paul's magnum opus!

May
10
2014
Marco Chau
Marco Chau

My bottle of Derby from 2010 comes in the Bee bottle. To my nose, it smells more like the notes description here than the ones for the 2011 and 2012 formulations. I am very confused with all these bottles change and reformulations. Can anyone please clarify all these for me? PLEASE!

May
08
2014
karlovonamesti
karlovonamesti

Vintage Derby, a great frag? I call bullshit on Derby.

This fragrance is a monotonous nutmeg slog, the spice concentrated over an unremarkable woods accord and dusted with grandma's old Liz Taylor gemstone body talc. I've smelled some amazing fragrances in my time. Derby from 1985 isn't one of them. If you're a fan of nutmeg and can't afford Derby, look into British Sterling, which is roughly $3 an ounce, and still a decent reference for manly nutmeg.

I'll get back to you on the current Derby reissue.

May
03
2014
GMK
GMK

@Denica... Thank you so much.

Apr
02
2014
Denica
Denica

GMK, you wrote everything that i want to, about this perfume! Excellent summary :)

Apr
02
2014
GMK
GMK

It took so long to write about a fragrance of this calibre , Guerlain is the trend setter in perfumery for others and so is Derby and Jicky for Guerlains itself imho.

Apart from the likings or dislikings (as it is a very subjective and vastly varies ) , Derby is a very very complex and rich fragrance which could not be evaluated in a few wearings, I have been wearing it since few months and I am still discovering something new in it on every wearing.

This starts( don't enjoy the start a lot) very herbal and pungent due to so many spices but majorly i get mace and patchouli which remains so dominant till the drydown kicks in , the drydown is the part which i love , its very Guerlain , smooth , subtle , smokey leather and musky sandalwood with mesmerizing aura of Guerlain's signature.

A Masterpiece but not for everyone.

Mar
30
2014
williamvargas
williamvargas

I was able to build a 30 mil atomizer of this classic fragrance, took a few mini's to build, and over time I blended them all into a really nice atomizer. I decided to wear some classic fragrances for a little while started with some vintage paco r that I had. I am always the first one in so I always put my fragrance on 15 to 20 minutes before anyone comes in, the first lady in always notices what fragrance I am wearing. I try and wear something different everyday as I try out samples and just some that I own. she has been here 8 months and she says, omg that one smells incredible. I think that one is my favorite so far,she said it smells so masculine or manly..i need to get that for my husband surprised me a bit as I have been able to wear some very highly regarded fragrances. I read a lot of the reviews on this wonderful site and try fragrances based on that. I have always loved to smell nice and I think some people don't notice the difference between aqua velva and aventus. so when I get a compliment like that it makes me revisit a fragrance again. she is right, this is one incredible fragrance. I have still not sampled the newer version but I think it might let me down. so now I am on the hunt for more mini's of the old bottle. I now see why this got 5 stars from luca turin. you well smell good.
very well done guerlain.

Jan
10
2014
livio.marucci
livio.marucci

@gallian
I do touch Antaeus and Fahrenheit...

I have Fahrenheit and I know Antaeus and I love them both... take a look at my profile... I said I think Fahrenheit worse than Derby... but I didn't say I don't like it...

I meant if there is market for a strong cologne like Fahrenheit, Antaeus and Kourós there is a market for Derby...

I know about history and Fahrenheit was created in 1988 and was totally reformulated some years ago... Luca Turin gave 4 stars for the original (it's not for sale anymore) and 2 stars to the current edition. (Derby has 5)

Fahrenheit repeated many tones of Hermés' Bel Ami from 1986... and Derby came first in 1985... Fahrenheit and Derby have both citrus top notes and leather base...
Jean Claude Ellena was going to "create" Fahrenheit with a very different and innovator kind of fresh cologne... but he was rejected in the very ending... He was going to replace Fahrenheit for Bvlgari's Eau Parfumme au Thé Vert... It was going to be released only in 1992! It was a 90's hit!! In the same year, 1988, Pierre Bourdon would create Cool Water and change all the male colognes' market with a fresh and lighter scent instead of the 80's monsters... Dior had the opportunity to breakthrough and change the market... instead they preferred being conservative and playing safe... Currently they proof they were wrong releasing Aqua Fahrenheit... A lighter and fresh version of it. A pure contradiction.

And honestly? I don't care if Derby was a big commercial failure! Profits doesn't build a good cologne... Not everybody has good taste for cologne, so it doesn't mean just because Derby was not popular in the late 90's it doesn't deserve to be on the market anymore.

That's my opinion! It is different from yours... but I didn't need to insult you calling you uninformed or blind manual follower...

Jan
09
2014
demcav
demcav

I wear the original (1985, eagle bottle) formulation of this edt when I feel like walking through mossy, green woods. Depending on how heavily I dab from the splash bottle, the woods can vary from either heavily overgrown and quite dark -- some trees even showing signs of decaying from age -- to lighter and less dense, allowing dappled light through and appearances of young, new growth. I look forward to my "strolls" through the forests with Derby, because the paths vary somewhat with each wearing, but they're all enjoyable and comforting!

Jan
08
2014
gallian
gallian

You are not well informed, Derby was discontinued because it was the opposite of a commercial success! The original Fahrenheit was considered by Turin the sheer perfection, if you read your manual you know that this is the truth. I love Derby, but please... don't touch Antaeus! Don't touch the original Fahrenheit... Learn the History!

Jan
02
2014
livio.marucci
livio.marucci

Guerlain, please... it is much better than fahrenheit... bring it back please... it would bring a lot of money stealing market from Fahrenheit, Antaeus and Kouros!!

Luca Turin gave 5 stars... just make a new ad with a savage hot man (Gladiator) and you'll have a recipe for a rocket success!

Jan
02
2014
pronose
pronose

the oridinal was awesome! but the refolmulated stinks!!!! guerlain take us for morons!!!!! what happened to the original scent????? shame on you! overpriced cologne for a refolmulated scent! shame on guerlain house!

Oct
15
2013
spaniel
spaniel

I don't get it at all. Sorry.

Smells like a cheap version of Van Cleef & Arpels. Reminds me of shaving cream from the 80s.

And yes....I have the old formulation.

Aug
15
2013
lavaman
lavaman

The original is my favorite. I didn't notice the citrus notes as much as the spicier ones.. The powdery (powdery in a masculine way) dry down is heavenly and lasting. I want to get more but the price has increase to about 300% since the 1990s. I might break down and get it again. I have a small amount left and wear sparingly.

Jul
07
2013
tri3pod
tri3pod

O Holy Derby! The scent is brightly shining,
It is the day of the dear Saviour's birth.
Long lay the chypre in sin and error pining.
Till Derby appeared and the Spirit felt its worth.
A thrill of hope the weary world rejoices,
For yonder breaks a new and glorious morn.
Fall on your knees! Oh, Smell the angel scent!
O Derby divine, the day when Jean Paul Guerlain created Derby;
O Derby, O Holy Derby , O Derby divine!
O Derby, O Holy Derby , O Derby divine!

Feb
10
2013
iranperfumer
iranperfumer

در کلاس عطر ها اگر بخواهیم مقایسه بسیار سادهای در نظر بگیریم مردانه باشخصیت اما از خود راضی را در محل کار اداری ومحفل سنگین با شخصیتی خاص خود بیان میکند .

Oct
24
2012
williamvargas
williamvargas

a classic wonderful man scent, that to me does not smell that dated. i think a wonderful masculine prescence is felt with this one, no pretentious unisex fragrance going on . just depends on what you like and what you like projecting about yourself, not a young man type of scent, the price point in my opionion is not justified though, i have been able to locate a few mini bottles, enough to have amassed a decent sized atomizer,i pull this one out every now and again. just a really splendid cologne for a mature gentleman. my compliments mr. guerlain..this one still makes me sit up and take notice..just work on the price please.. i am guessing the samples i have purchased due to the styling of the bottle are older, i am anxious to compare the new one..hopefully will not be dissapointed. i will savor this one and just it sparingly..but i do love this.

Sep
19
2012
nutbuddies951
nutbuddies951

I have to disagree with Mr. Jason Smith's assertion that there is no difference in the re-formulated Derby. I have both versions, and there is a substantial change. I find the new version pale by comparison, and without as much staying power. But it's what we've got now.

I love this fragrance. I alternate with Nicolai's New York, like going between two wonderful lovers. lol.

Sep
18
2012
Taleb
Taleb

I would prefer Robert Piguet's Bandit over this....overpriced at the moment for an EDT.

Sep
16
2012
Kain
Kain

Before saying anything about this fragrance, I must say that I'm not a fan of classic fragrances!
I can't stand most of them at all!
This fragrance made in 80's so I was expecting something old fashion and dated which remind me of my grandpa!
After sniffing this, there was only one word in my mind....
A masterpiece!
Work of art by master Jean-Paul Guerlain!
I haven't seen or it's better to say didn't sniff a fragrance that mix old fashion and modern scents perfectly like this before.
In the opening I get a semi fresh scent with some green notes like vetiver mixed with smooth leather and hint of sweetness in the background.
There are some floral notes in the background too.
Very beautiful scent.
In the mid woodsy notes joined in and give this beautiful scent much more masculine vibe.
Every note mixed perfectly with other notes.
Really complex scent and really well balanced.
Good projection and longevity and extremely versatile.
10/10 without any doubt!
خب راستش شخصا علاقه اي به عطرهاي قديمي ندارم و بوي خيلي هاشون برام غير قابل تحمله و منو ياد بابا بزرگم ميندازه
اين عطر هم حدود 27 سال پيش ساخته شده و من توقع يه بوي قديمي و از مد افتاده رو داشتم
وقتي اينو تست كردم فقط يه كلمه توي ذهنم شكل گرفت
شــــاهـــكار
يه عطر بسيار خوشبو و بي نظير و كلاسيك كه واقعا به ژان كلود گرلن بايد تبريك گفت بابت ساختن همچين شاهكاري اونم 27 سال پيش
عطرهاي كلاسيك زيادي رو تست كردم اما هيچ كدوم به خوبي اين نتونستن حس كلاسيك عطرهاي قديمي رو با حس مدرن تركيب كنن
رايحه ابتدايي نسبتا شاداب و كمي گياهي هست مثل بوي وتيور به همراه بوي ملايم و دلپذير چرم كه شما رو ياد عطرهاي كلاسيك ميندازه اما حس مدرن هم كاملا توش حس ميشه
بوش مقداري شيرينه و كمي هم رايحه گلها توش حس ميشه اما بوش كاملا مردانه و خوشبو هست
در ادامه رايحه چوبها بهش اضافه ميشه كه بوشو مردانه تر و سنگين تر و عالي تر ميكنه
تركيب بي نظير رايحه ها واقعا هنرمندانه اس
هر رايحه اي دقيقا سر جاي خودشه و هيچي توي ذوق نميزنه
پخش بو و ماندگاري مناسبي داره
هر جور شده بايد اينو تو كلكسيونم داشته باشم
واقعا عاليه اين عطر

Sep
16
2012
bcoops
bcoops

I have been messing with a sample of this for a while.I really dont have much to say other then scent is brilliant.........

Sep
08
2012
jrichart
jrichart

En una frase ''refinamiento hípico'', claro está que esta frase es la que me ha sugerido Derby pues lo encuentro un perfume de estos conservadores, como puede ser la apariencia de un jinete o el deporte de la hípica. Lo que más me encanta de este gran Chipre Cuero que es Derby de Guerlain es su secado, hay que ver como maneja Guerlain el secado de sus perfumes, al contrario de sus notas de salida que en ocasiones son incluso nauseabundas pero sus secados son ''maravillosos'' esto me ha sucedido con Habit Rouge y Mouchoir de Monsieur, el primero me olía a tienda de dietética o a productos de limpieza y el segundo un olor fecal pero cuando llegaron a su secado la cosa cambió. Volviendo a Derby he de decir que pese a mis veintidós años fue un amor a primera vista pués pese a sus años que lleva en el mercado no se me hizo old school para nada sino un perfume clásico. Otro de los perfumes mas elegantes que he visto, comparte algo con Equipage de Hermès y Pour Monsieur de Chanel. Mi consejo, es que Derby por su corte de perfume serio es mejor lucirlo en situaciones formales.

Apr
08
2012
candace.miller
candace.miller

Geurlain had a "road show" at Neiman Marcus where I tested a number of fragrances for myself and then tried Derby for my husband. Wow! Forget the husband, this is MINE! Of all the Guerlains I own this is the most elegant. A lovely soft chypre that can be worn all year.

Jan
26
2012
alfarom
alfarom

Only a few masculine fragrances have been so praised to reach the hype status of Derby, but even a fewer really deserved their place in the Fragrance Olympus. Derby is surely among these. A leather chypre that strikes as extremely sophisticated, sort of restrained but never too mannered or polished. Multi faceted, rich but not overpowering and incredibly harmonious in its complexity.

No need to go through notes explanation as Derby is one of those masterpieces that any perfumista should experience without esitation. Mandatory.

Among the top masculines of all times together with Knize Ten, Kouros, Yatagan and vintage Fahrenheit and surely among my favorite deliveries from Guerlain.

Barbare Et Tres Civilise.

Mesmerizing!

Rating: 10/10

Dec
27
2011
Ramdeep
Ramdeep

I have mixed feeling about leather type fragrances. If you take Derby, Knize Ten, Cuire de Russie and some lesser leather like ones like Rive Gauche, Leonard & Jules, they all start with stale or bitter top notes of leather and then diverge in their drydown but I do not find anyone particularly wonderful. Derby and Knize open up and obtain some decent chypre qualities that we all can relate to, the others to a lesser extent. I suppose I like the sweeter side of leathers or leather likes, like Aramis.

Nov
03
2011
Grottola
Grottola

I just noticed, part of the powderiness can probably be attributed to rosewood, which isn't in the notes list. I smell a powdery rosewood note in Bel Ami and Tiffany for Men as well - hey, you never know!

Sep
28
2011
Grottola
Grottola

Okay, now it's time to give Derby a proper review.

This review is of the current formulation in the bee bottle.

Derby is definitely a leather fragrance, and while I'm not quite sure about the chypre aspect of it, there's a good dose of florals in there. A somewhat powdery rose/jasmine combo hold up the leather and the herbal artemesia in the top; the florals also combine with nutmeg to accentuate the "powdery spice" sort of feel. Contrary to popular belief, I find Derby to actually be kinda subtle. The leather note here is definitely prominent, but it's more along the lines of the classic "public restroom" leathers I've smelled (e.g. Royal English Leather, Cabochard) than anything else. This isn't necessarily a bad thing. I really like the artemesia in this one. I don't get any mint, but I do get some patchouli and sandalwood in the base.

I like Derby, but I'm torn on it. I don't really know if I'd buy a bottle - it's just a bit too stuffy for me, and it just doesn't feel like something I'd wear. Granted, it's a high quality fragrance. Obviously good raw materials went into the making of it, and it would work great on a distinguished gentleman. That being said, I find it kind of on the weak side sillage-wise (other people can smell it, I can't after an hour), and it's a wee bit powdery for my tastes (I expected more leather). There's also an odd banana-like note that I attribute to the "public restroom" smell.

I apologize for all the weird comparisons, but Derby is a very unique scent, and there really isn't anything I can rightly compare it to.

Still, I'd give Derby a sniff. It's worth a smell, if only for experience, but the olfactory fatigue and lack of leather I get from it don't make it full bottle worthy for me. I'll definitely try it again in the future, and I'd love to try the vintage version.

Derby would be incredibly sexy on a woman.

Sep
08
2011
Grottola
Grottola

I expected Derby to be raw, virile, and masculine. What I got instead was a very "plush", powdery leather chypre that unfortunately sort of reminds me of a porta potty (jasmine and nutmeg can do that on my skin). I'll probably have to test it from a sprayer, but so far I don't dig it.

For some reason, my brain is registering "bananas" when I smell Derby.

Aug
28
2011
Minimephisto
Minimephisto

This smell is captivating. It shall be able to imprison the minds of a person. If you are in a room, talking with a person with this cologne on, you can be almost certain that whatever he says must be convincing.

Apr
09
2011
Ekove
Ekove

Reworking review


---//

Presentation: 9/10 (vintage)
Uniqueness: 9/10
Value: 7/10 (new price)
Longevity: 6/10
Projection: 7/10
Smell: 10/10

Overall: 8/10

Mar
27
2011
guest_Derby!
guest_Derby!

No change whatsoever! I happen to have a bottle of Derby (from late '90's) in that rectangle bottle we all used to love. Between that and the Bee-bottle of now, nothing's much different than the price!

Interested in proving yourself?, contact Lana at Nieman Marcus S.F. Union Square's Guerlain counter.

Sincerely,

Jason Smith

Jan
30
2010
northernman
northernman

The original is one of my favorites. Powdery, long lasting masculine scent without being over powering

Oct
27
2009
bbBD
bbBD

One of the greatest fragrances ever made. Derby is a leather chypre with a distinct mint note running though it. While it is of 80s strength it is no 80s powerhouse. Rather it is a descendent of leather chypres like Diorling and Aromatics Elixir. From a mint/leather opening Derby moves to a floral heart and eventually an oakmoss base. It is clearly a chypre in all phases and the everpresent mint melds perfectly into the chypre structure.

The Les Parisiennes re-issue is good but not as strong or bold as the vintage. Derby may not appeal to those new to fragrance, but consider it a must-try for lovers of chypres and classic masculines.

Aug
11
2009
slamb
slamb

Well I think that the lack of reviews here speaks volumes. This is a constantly overlooked beauty from a master, Guerlain. Smoky, woody, elegant beauty. Thank you Guerlain.

Jan
31
2009

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Derby by Guerlain 4.41 out of 5 based on 143 ratings and 37 user reviews

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