Mitsouko (for women)
Designer: Guerlain Olfactive Group: Chypre FruityMitsouko means 'mystery' in Japanese, and the fragrance is mysterious, not allowing everyone to see its beauty. The opening is long, like a play of all beautiful notes, and, of course, this fragrance is not for ordinary day use. On the skin it sounds as if it starts from far away, without any allusion to its intensity and sensual side. Mitsouko is one of the well known aromas of chypre olfactory group with cool top notes and oak moss in the base. But it also has a note of a juicy peach, which gives a clear and quite gourmand nuance. It features bergamot, peach, jasmine, may rose, spices (cinnamon), oak moss, vetiver and wood. The fragrance is exuberant, unusual and elegant, not too sweet, nor heavy, it is well balanced. Eau de Toilette is much sharper, while Eau de Perfume is warmer and nicer. The full richness of the composition, however, is revealed only in the perfume concentration.
The bottle has the same shape as the one of Heure Bleue (1912). It is often said that these two bottles are symbols of beginning (Heure Bleue) and the end (Mitsouko) of the war.
Mitsouko Fragrance Reviews:
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I always had EdT samples and a bottle, so that's my main experience with Mitsouko. I've heard that the parfum version is much better. Well, the EdT is very nice too! Better... "nice" is a very generic word for this scent.
This is not an easy smell. It needs time and contemplative attention to truly enjoy every step. The start is very green, but not the kind of fresh green you find everywhere. It's almost a sharp sultry green that reminds me of dark pond plants. Then comes the softiest of fruit note, a very deep and creamy peach. I would say a "grown-up" peach, if it makes sense, haha! Then flowers. Never smelled flowers like this in any other scent. They smell like an ancient melancholic mysterious garden in the shadow. I love their older ads for Mitsouko, too. No vulgarity, only poetry to express the soul of the scent. It matches my skin chemistry quite finely, yet people around me keep on saying "mmm... old lady fragrance!"
It's not old at all! It's just different and very long-living! Created almost one century ago and still kicking! There mus be a reason for that!
I would say that Mitsouko is a dark kind of fragrance, but what that really means? I don't mean dark as "black and naughty". The darkness in Mitsouko is an echo of mistery of the woman, the depth of hidden things and at the same time it is the scent of freedom.
I see the wearer of Mitsouko as an independent free spirit that crosses the world and makes an impression on its face without being corrupted by the wordly things. I see some loneliness, knowing and spiritual strenght.
The oakmoss base is simply touching and express all the beauty in Mitsouko.
All the notes are perfectly entwined together, a true masterpiece of blending. I will always have at least a few samples of Mitsouko with me to smell Beauty itself.


Much like L'Heure Bleue (though not in fragrance), I find this scent to be very quiet and meditative.
The peach note is lovely as I dont like overly fruity scents, but this is understated and elegant.
The drydown is my favourite. Heavenly!
One spray beneath my shirt and I get wafts of this gorgeous mossy, shadowy, haunting chypre scent for literally hours.
It has in its depths the faint scent of powder and woods, reminiscent of the sun dappled fragrant ground of a forest glade, faintly sweet with dusky moss and fragrant woods, and a slightly hay-like grassy undergrowth.
Inspired by the heroine in a novel based on an impossible love between a British officer and the wife of a Japanese admiral, this scent is apparently a best seller in Japan, owing to the fact it is very light and not highly "perfumy". The Japanese seem to favour fragrances which are not cloying or strong, and this is no exception.
Even though this is not an overpowing or strong scent, the longevity is really good on me.
Soft yet longwearing, elegant, melancholy and very nostalgic.
Highly recommended!



It's not our fault-what scents appered in my time are all the same-fruity, and when I smell something of the grandeur of Mitsouko my first impresion is of rejection!
But I fought the initial urge of dislikment-I sniffed it again and again-the firts whizz hit me strong- a melange of citruses and roses. Expecting a peach anytime.The peach lets hereself awaited-to long my opinion-and then again a rose apears instead...but now acompanied with some strong friends: a rich ylang ylang and jasmin!
To the whole party arriving is a dust of spice attendants: that remain here long after the other guests have left...enjoying themselves to much..getting drunk in their exuberance they let all their power mingle with what remained from the departed guests...the cinammon, musk and oakmoss being the most outspoken, but the vetiver doesn't let them have the spotlight and jumps right in...the others greeting with arms wide open the new member...and they do their own thing waaaaay into the hours of morning...
In the end the party never really goes away...they still harase the hoast...
Like I said: we youngsters can't trully get to aknoledge a great perfume...for me it's just to loud to heavy...but if something can change the mind of a girl that likes soft and fresh perfumes then Mitsouko and Shalimar can!

Peach is supposedly incorporated in this, but I can barely detect it embedded within all that spicy carnation and powdery rose. Woody-musky nuances of oakmoss with the ever present accord of spices and vetiver. And finally, you catch the wonderful accord of Guerlinade.
Very complex, bold, sensual, spicy with powdery nuances. You can't help but smell the melancholy tone of this scent. This is a masterpiece. Its creation blindingly beautiful. You will not smell such artistry as this in modern perfumes of today...NEVER. It makes newer perfumes look unfinished, naked, and threadbare. The serious perfumista yearns and sadly mourns for this era of perfumery to emerge once again.


This is the sad truth I have to live with…(for now at least).
I have bought a bottle (EdP) of this truly beautiful and classic fragrance almost a year ago and since then, we both try to get acquainted together. Although, for me it was love at first sniff….there is no love coming back to me from "Mitsouko"!
I am painfully aware that "Mitsouko" is hard to get – the fragrance is choosing its mistress and does not make friends easily and lightly.
On my skin "Mitsouko" is very harsh, green and extremely masculine….and it stays this way, without even thinking to change a bit, the whole day!
I am deeply envy does who can wear "Mitsouko" and are able to enjoy this enchanting, classic fragrance.
But I am not giving up…I will be waiting for "Mitsouko" to change her mind…maybe one day "Mitsouko" will bloom on my skin too!
Until then……I will be heartbroken, but still waiting with open arms for "Mitsouko" to finally grant me my wish!








at the time I thought a bad joke lol

I wear it for a night out and it smells delectable on my skin .

- maybe because my first perfumes were Chypres, some quite "strong" (Miss Dior, Femme Rochas, Paloma Picasso)?
I don't feel any peach or flowers - no concrete notes, just a feeling of complete harmony. Yes, it changes during hours, but I like it's every movement. I have to admit, that on me the drydown is quite bitter, creamy-bitter, like "Diam Blond" Serge Lutens, but DB is much more sweet, compare to "Mitsouko". And I like it's bitterness - it is not heavy, but deep and warm.
On my skin it is very feminine aroma. Many people say that this scent suits me, but nobody recognises the perfume - yes, it is a Mystery! :)
Bravo Guerlain!


It's not sweet by any means. In some ways it is a very earnest, almost somber perfume..not uplifting or happy to my nose. For example, the way it smells on my skin, I cannot imagine even thinking about putting this perfume on in summer. The way it smells on me just doesn't fit with sunshine and heat. To me it fits more with winter which is a darker and more contemplative season. Not exactly a feel good perfume but one that is sophisticated, deep, and not at all citrusy or light on my skin. Another one to try if for no other reason than to sample a complex perfume that really is a classic--even if it isn't a go-to scent from day to day.




Guerlain Vol de Nuit Evasion has quite same feeling and type, but it's more subtle and warmer, without the suffocating effect Mitsouko gives me. So Vol de Nuit Evasion is winner of these two on me.

I got my hands on the re-fillable version that is housed in their meteorite like gold colored canister with mesh like holes around it.

Unfortunately, this has been reformulated. And it broke my heart. Why would a company want to reformulate a scent that has been consistently successful since 1918? It makes NO sense. I still have about an inch of the old formula and I treasure it like gold. On one of my trips back from Europe, I smelled the new formula at a duty free shop and I wanted to weep. Gone are all the elements (whatever they were) that made this perfume unique. What was left was a generic, run-of-the-mill, department-store concoction with a weak suggestion of what it used to be. I'm sorry if I sound too harsh, but I wore the original Mitsouko for many years. It used to be my signature fragrance. And the new one is NOTHING like the original. Guerlain should be sued. :(




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