Let's get this straight. This is a timeless perfume. A Classic. Not for the older crowd, not for the younger crowd, not for women, not for men... But for people of all ages, gender, color... who don't think in boxes and who can appreciate a thing of sheer beauty and for whom 'sex' is not a four letter word. Be it a painting, a fragrance, a landscape, a dish, a dress, a great conversation, a warm friendship, a lovely touch... it can be enjoyed by everybody. Do you say: 'The Mona Lisa' is 'an old lady painting'? Van Gogh is' an old man', French cooks Escoffier and Bocuse and Julia Child and James Beard, couturières and creators Coco Chanel and Estée Lauder and Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger are 'old ladies and men'? Do you say Billie Holiday makes 'old lady music', Leonard Cohen makes 'old man music'? Madonna makes 'wannabe young' music? Do you say Lagerfeld is an old man or do you say: his creations are great or ugly? Age has nothing to do with classic artful creations. Be it paintings, music, food, clothes... You like it or you don't. But age has nothing to do with it IMHO. Whether it is created in 2006 (Tom Fords 'Black Orchid'), in 2011 (Serge Lutens 'Jeux de Peau'), 1998 (Westwoods 'Boudoir'), in 1988 (Lauders 'Knowing'), in 1985 (Diors 'Poison') in 1977 ('YSL's 'Opium'), 1962 (Desprez' 'Bal à Versailles', in 1953 (Balmain's 'Jolie Madame'), 1929 (Patou's Joy), 1921 (Chanel nr 5), 1919 (Guerlains 'Mitsouko), 1906 (Guerlain's 'Après l'Ondée')... or in another year, it doesn't make a difference at all with classics. They are timeless. And 'Shalimar' (1925) is one of the most famous timeless classics. You can't dispute that. You can like it or not, but it is and will always be 'A Classic'. Whether you personally like it or not, you have to admit that it is something special. Even 87 years after its birth it still stirs up as much heated debat as modern frags like 'Angel', 'Womanity', 'Addict'... It is a tribute to its awesome creative power. 1925, think about it. No gaschronometry, no marketing agencies, no magazine smelling strip ads, no TV, no nothing, no artificial notes, no new chemical compounds that amplify existing natural smells. Only the taste and genius of one man in a crummy Parisian lab.
'Shalimar' was created by 'maitre parfumeur' Jacques Guerlain, the founder of the legendary Guerlain fame himself, to celebrate the love story between one emperor 'Shahjahan' and his wife 'Mumtaz Mahal'. And it is a fitting composition. 'Shalimar' breathes at the same time the mysterious vibe of what was then called 'The Orient' and the animalistic, sweaty passion between a man and a woman. Yes, young readers of this, as surprising as it may seem to you: they had sex in 1925! Also your mother and father must have had sex, as impossible that this may sound to you, otherwise you wouldn't be reading this. It is this marriage between eastern mysticism coupled with basic earthy animalistic passion and human lust that makes 'Shalimar' the masterpiece that it is. It is 'The X-rated Tales of 1001 Night' translated into a fragrance and bottled. Even if it was a paid job and even if it was for blue blood, Guerlain dove straight in with abandon and without compromises and didn't hold back.
This was the 1925 version of a 'celeb scent'. The difference with now is that then a celeb scent was created by a real perfumer, not an accountant that worked together with a marketing firm who called the shots. The perfumer was the boss of his creation. Also the perfumer got free reign from the one who gave the order, to create the fragrance to do as he pleased. There was full confidence in the craftmanship of the perfumer. Now the 'celeb frag makers' receive strict guidelines based on market research: for the broadest audience, for maximum sale for this age group and made with the cheapest ingredients. Another difference with the celeb frags of today, the '1925 celeb frag Shalimar' was and still is made with the best ingredients, not supervised by penny pinching managers whose interest is not to create great timeless classics but to make as much money possible for the shareholders.
So what's the magic of 'Shalimar'? What is it that stirs up controversy even 87 years after its birth?
Top: Citrus, mandarin-orange, cedar, bergamot, lemon
Middle: Iris, patchouli, jasmine, vetiver, rose
Base: Leather, sandalwood, opoponax, musk, vanilla, incense, civet.
Two immediate 'wows'! One: a very fresh, effervecent, citrusy top. Two: a very, very strong base heavy in the animalistic department (leather, musk, opoponax, civet). It is the contrast between the fresh top and the 'beastly' strong and openly animalistic/sexual base that makes whoopie and gives 'Shalimar' its power, uniqueness, love-or-hate aspect and... balls, pardon my French. 'Shalimar, mon cher, est un parfum avec des couilles, Monsieur et Madame!' Most people who love fresh citrus frags are not attracted to heavy animalistic combo's like Shalimar's base. And most lovers of dense 'heavy hitters' are no fan of citrus notes in the top of a fragrance. So Maitre Jacques Guerlain showed his originality, perfume prowess and sheer single minded genius by bringing these two totally opposite fragrance worlds and their fans together. And that for a ordered scent. I don't see the hired guns of todays celeb frags showing so much guts. By for instance making a stark incense frag for Britney, a dry woody one for Jessica and a spicy chypre for Katy. But no guts, no glory. Only bland interchangeable frags.
Between the clean top and the dirty base Monsieur Guerlain built a bridge by adding on the 'clean top side' a fresh, green note like vetiver and on the 'dirty base side' patchouli. He then cleverly added some soothing florals to smooth this in theory deep gap between 'beastly base' and 'toodeloo top' out. So he added rose, a peppery jasmine and iris. They gave a much needed rounded, creamy complementary aspect that cemented everything together and etched this masterpiece perfectly in perfume history. The result is masterful. You get the clean fresh top where he smuggled in some cedar to prepare for the libido of the base. So after the fresh virginal green blast you get the lecherous Don Juans and Casanova's and John Holmes' of the base stampeding in, full of energy, lust and testosteron: leather, opoponoax, civet, musk, incense... Enough heat here to warm up even the coldest feet. The little bit sweet sandalwood and naturally dry vanilla (not the artificial cotton candy here) temper the sexual energy and shameless libidious lust of base a bit. And then when you are torn between two lovers -the clean top and the dirty base- to the rescue comes the soothing middle so that it ends not in a sterile Disney production nor a splattering X-rated one, but a PG-affair for a broader audience The result is complex, intricate, original, masterful.
Of course you should take in 'Shalimar' as a whole. Give it time to develop on your skin. So that you can fully consummate the coupling of the clean top and the dirty base and smell the roses of the middle all through this tour de force. Applying and smelling 'Shalimar' is like building a love affair. Slowly, slowy, slowy... Let the desire build and bloom. Let the senses smolder, ignite and then flame up full bast, devour you, let you forget about your daily worries and transport you to another, exciting world. Give it time to discover all its intricacies and hidden secrets, nooks and crannies. Longing, slowly building... makes the love affair, loving itself and also a high quality evolving, living fragrance more interesting. The longer it lasts, the better. And as a high quality Guerlain perfume, 'Shalimar' lasts long, has an impressive evolution and great sillage. Of course if you concentrate on one note only -'civet': aargh!'- or -'lemon: bweuurk!'- you'll never get the total beauty of 'Shalimar'. It needs time to blossom. You need to savour it like a delicacy, not hastily and impatiently bite and swallow like fast food. Treat this frag like you would treat an 'amourette': going slowly at first, savouring the growing desire accelerating as lust builds and takes over and then consummate with abandon. Test it and be ready, not only to fall in love with 'Shalimar', but to fall into the arms of your lover/bf/gf/husband/wife and devour him/her passionately. Such is the power and the magic of 'Shalimar', the first great libidinous fragrance of modern perfumery. And at age 87, it's still an 'energetic cougar'/'dapper don Juan' that has enough energy and chutzpah to let a whole army of young toy boys or party girls see all the corners of the room and wear them -and their aquatic fresh or floral fruity frags- totally out.
Feb
12
2012