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Cuir d`Ange Hermes for women and men

Cuir d`Ange Hermes for women and men
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Total people voted: 199
female 25- 25+
male 25- 25+

I have it: 143 I had it: 26 I want it: 232 My signature: 1

main accords
leather
floral
powdery
animalic
musky

Cuir d`Ange by Hermes is a Leather fragrance for women and men. This is a new fragrance. Cuir d`Ange was launched in 2014. The nose behind this fragrance is Jean-Claude Ellena. The fragrance features heliotrope, hawthorn, violet, narcissus, musk and leather.

Perfume rating: 4.06 out of 5 with 199 votes.

Fragrance Notes

Heliotrope Hawthorn Violet Narcissus Musk Leather

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moderate 29
 
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soft 27
 
moderate 30
 
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Cuir d`Ange Fragrance Reviews

klaaon
klaaon

I have smelled the Hermessence line many times but nothing really pulled my heart strings (or rather my purse strings) until Cuir d'ange. It took me awhile to get Cuir d'ange soft supple expression of leather with just the right depth of eccentricity and dryness. Once I did, I am hooked!

Honestly I am not a fan of usual hot favourites like Ambre a Aguilar and Vetiver Tonka from the Hermessenence line. To me, others behind Cuir d'ange from this line are Poivre Samacarde and Santal Massoia!

Dec
02
2016
metalgear
metalgear

10/10++++++++++

Oct
27
2016
Michael1962
Michael1962

Hermes leather is like a more delicate,toned down version of Dior Cuir Cannage.
Nothing wrong with that at all,but for the comparable price differential I would go for the Dior version everytime.Yes I get the abstract soft new leather handbag vibe but cannot detect the florals as opposed to Dior where the orange blossom and jasmine add noticeable support to the main player.
Hermes is the house of leathergoods but this all seems a bit PG 13 in comparison.Its quality and pleasant enough but as a
niche leather scent it leaves me a bit underwhelmed.
Feels a bit too one dimensional.

Jul
07
2016
rakan1985
rakan1985

scent : 10/10
sillage : 8/10
longevity :8/10
70% night / 30% day fragrance
nice creamy and smoky scent
reminds me of Midnight in Paris Van Cleef

Jun
14
2016
freewheelingvagabond
freewheelingvagabond

A light, subtle floral leather fragrance that is unusually cool and quite wearable in summer. The initial opening is tempered with mild spices and a leather accord that hints at high quality leather handbags. The floral notes bloom pretty soon as the fragrance starts to smell similar to some creams and body lotions. The typical airiness of Ellena's composition is found here, and this fragrance is very Hermes. It is slightly radiant and wears very lightly on skin. The heart of the fragrance is mostly the floral leather accord. It is followed by a similar soft and subtle dry down that is reminiscent of the earlier phases. The composition is linear to a certain extent, and has soft sillage and moderate longevity on skin.

Personally I love the opening, but thereafter it is too fleeting and a little unexciting for my tastes. I prefer to go with Declaration or Eau d'Hermes when looking for a leather scent that is similarly bright, airy and radiant.

Overall it's quite a good composition. Definitely recommended if you are looking for a light, airy, summery leather fragrance and do not want anything striking. Definitely not a butch leather. Also, definitely would not work for those looking for something a little potent and tenacious.


3/5 (neutral)

Apr
19
2016
mrsg34
mrsg34

This is simply stunning, so beautiful . It's an angel leather indeed, it's demure and almost teases you with a glimpse of the leather with each waft. Its classy and unisex with about two to three hours longevity.

Mar
02
2016
George K.
George K.

The softness of leather,a promise hovering over the skin.
Hawthorn,violet,heliotrope.Mysterious and delicate.
Perfumer Jean Claude Ellena .Cuir d' Ange : words taken from the book Jean Le Bleu(Blue Boy) in which the French author Jean Giono describes his father's cobbler's workshop"...in angel leather for some god with a thousand feet".

Feb
27
2016
bailão
bailão

Cuir D'Ange is a magnificent leather fragrance. Kudos again for Mr. Ellena, by transforming an "expensive leather handbag smell" into an incredible fragrance. I think that the name suits perfectly to it. Heavenly divine leather scent. A must for those leather fiends.

Feb
18
2016
hwangjinseok
hwangjinseok

When I first sniffed this perfume at Hermes Boutique, I didn't feel anything special until I walked out the boutique and starting to realize that the perfume sprayed on my arm smelled like as if I'm carrying Birkin or Kelly bag.. The leather was sophisticated and deeply dramatic. Love this perfume!

Dec
23
2015
nero77
nero77

Delicate Leather...

I don't think this is too much of a standout fragrance from the Hermessence line. It is in keeping with the character of the other releases in the series. Basically a light, delicate leather. There's a sweetness to it that I also get, perhaps from the almond-like heliotrope. The overall feel of the fragrance is not harsh leather but soft suede. I feel that Jean-Claude Ellena wanted to create a leather that did not smell like the rest of the heavy, birch tar scented leathers of the "dirty" and "animalic" style.

So I get the soft leather, very clean. I also get florals in the shape of violet and iris. There probably is musk in here, but it is nowhere near dirty or "musky" enough to make an impression, other than giving a soapy clean finish to everything.

I am a fan of his work, but I think with this one I am starting to agree with people who call it an "eau de cologne with leather" which to me is why it is so light, even though it has a wonderfully sift, clean leather note running all the way through. I think that if you don't want a strong, stinky animalic in-your-face leather experience, then this one is a perfect alternative take on those. Great stuff for people starting out in leather based fragrances too. As long as you expect a light and delicate fragrance here, you won't be disappointed. Typical signature style work from Jean-Claude Ellena.

Dec
19
2015
Calvini
Calvini

Feels similar to Tom Ford's White Suede, but keeps its sharply fresh (almost peppery) leather essence instead of turning into a soft musk; smells like a highly refined & polished brand new handbag as opposed to the slightly worn suede bag with powdery makeup.

Dec
06
2015
kim_klaus
kim_klaus

This is straightforwardly the finest leather under tanning in a leather workshop. It is still strikingly raw and completely untouched from any further processing (to saddlery, footwear, handbags etc) that it might just as well be called "angelic".

I think that specific raw treatment part is the most invigorating and tantalising of the whole leather processing.

Here's the leather solo, wild and alive. Nothing alike with the complex leather fragrances like f.i. Chanel Cuir de Russie- where there's party going around the dry, dead leather- jazz, vodka, fur, perfect make-up, expensive sigars, vases full of flowers etc.

Cuir d'Ange is innocent yet full, raw and invigoratingly earthy. Aesthetically enjoyable piece from the Hermessence line, very distinctive in its refined purity.

Oct
16
2015
jhitt793
jhitt793

Literally translated to mean "angel leather", 'Cuir d'Ange' attempts to counterbalance the heft of leather by creating a scent which defies gravity with its light and airy qualities. As artists, perfumers use scents as a creative medium in order to express themselves. This is not entirely unlike authors or poets who create literary masterpieces using words, painters who design beautiful canvases utilizing a variety of colors, or composers who develop emotive music by way of instruments of sound. Ellena wanted to capture his love of literature as an art form by creating a fragrance which used scented notes as words to tell a story. The end result is a perfume which marries leather and skin, hereby creating a unified vision of intimacy.

'Cuir d'Ange' opens with a not too surprising heavy dose of leather. There is a slight synthetic tone, which conjures up images of heavily preserved leather pieces. It is suede-like in texture, with deep and rich smokey facets. As opposed to most fragrances which lead with the lighter and more effervescent top notes in front, 'Cuir d'Ange' seems to open oppositely. It's as if the eponymous leather is lifting slowly from the skin by way of undulating wings. This dry down effect is mesmerizing to encounter. Slowly one is able to notice the accompanying light floral accord. Hawthorn blossom's slight sweet and almond-like scent can be perceived ever so gently. Its scent is known to smell slightly rotten, and here it expertly amplifies the animalic and bitter facets of the leather note. Heliotrope is encountered next with its fluffy, goose down texture. Much like a luscious dessert, its scent oscillates between smelling of vanilla, almond and marzipan. Very faint nuances of narcissus and violet flowers can also be perceived. Here narcissus's creamy floralcy is demonstrated, offering hints of wet hay and powdery facets. Violet flower adds further powdery qualities, aiding to create an overall airy quality. A variety of unspecified musks complete the fragrance.

Read my complete review at my personal fragrance blog
Fragranceemergency.blogspot.com

Sep
28
2015
mhobba
mhobba

This wasn't an instant love. It was slow burning. To be honest, my initial reaction was of mild disappointment. I was smelling a luxurious ointment or moisturiser, not a high end perfume. Remaining curious, I've exhausted my sample and I've moved beyond my early reservations, beyond simple appreciation for this wonderfully restrained elixir and now firmly embrace my love for this scent of ethereal beauty. The soft suede, insinuatingl, warm musk and puffs of floral powder aren't going to appeal to the huge sillage boasting attention seekers out there. This is a scent for you and anyone lucky enough to be within close quarters.

Sep
06
2015
gordbrad
gordbrad

I feel like Cuir D'Ange is quoting other feminine and masculine leather perfumes, almost doing a demonstration of them? It smells like the lower register of Cuir de Russie dialled down by like 1000x, then sweetened, softened, and powdery violet cosmetic notes added. If you love leathers but find most too strong, this would be good for you. Unclear whether the leather is isoquinolines/birch tar/whatever, but it's more the smell of the inside of a pink suede purse perhaps?

Aug
25
2015
Alisha76
Alisha76

Chandler Burr can talk me into anything, especially if Ellena makes it. Burr refers to this perfume often as a masterpiece, which is why I blind bought it.

This makes me think of riding around in the back of a rich lady's car. At first she seems a rather stuffy older lady, but after about 20 minutes she throws off her head scarf and you realize she's rather chic and modern. Unfortunately the car ride left me a little travel sick and nauseated. Literally.

This is the airiest leather perfume I've ever smelt. It's just not for me.

(I have a 15ml bottle if anyone wants to trade.)

Aug
22
2015
Lmuradian
Lmuradian

definitely leather and some florals. but over rated, longevity is about as weak as a eau de cologne. not worth it.

Aug
13
2015
pronose
pronose

too expensive and not very intersting for the price!

Jul
26
2015
jtd
jtd

2014 marks Jean-Claude Ellena’s 10th year as in-house perfumer at Hermès as well as his departure from the house. His final perfume for Hermès is Cuir d’Ange, released as a part of the Hermessence line that he created soon after his arrival to Hermès. Hermès was one of the first French luxury house to create a luxe-plus, high-cost line. Dior launched their Collection Privé the same year. Chanel followed with Les Exclusifs in 2007. Cartier released Les Heures in 2009.

The luxury on steroids bandwagon was the result of a number of tendencies in the perfume market but had one common goal: profit. The trends driving the escalation included the perfumer-as-artiste movement, a desire to reclaim the distinction that niche brands had stolen and demands for market growth. Each house sold the premise differently. Chanel touted its heritage. Guerlain used misdirection, rereleasing poorly selling perfumes in new bottles at high mark-up in line after line, from l’Art et la Matière and les Parisiènnes to Les Elixirs Charnels and the City Lines. The ongoing question is, how are the perfumes in the exclusive lines any more valuable than their less expensive counterparts? Luxury houses have long espoused convoluted and esoteric equations of worth to sell us their wares. The bottom line was: they created and maintained markets for ever more costly perfumes.

Rather than commissioning hired guns to produce a perfume at a time, Hermès had a more ambitious plan and brought in Ellena to reinvent Hermès’s perfumery starting with the creation of the Jardins series and the Hermessence line. It is valid to be skeptical of the charm of a contemporary luxury goods producer. The avarice of multinational corporations filtered through the haughtiness of top-tier tastemakers calls for suspicion at a minumum. Still, Hermès’s renovation was well considered and transparent, something refreshing in Fashion.

Ellena was the ideal choice. He had a proven track record of success with designer houses (Van Cleef and Arpels, Bvlgari and Cartier) and played a large part in defining niche perfumery with his work for l’Artisan Parfumeur, The Different Company, Amouage and Frédéric Malle. He had an enviable lineage, apprenticing in Grasse, studying at the new perfume school at Givaudan in the 1970s, following in the lineage of Edmond Roudnitska and being a founding member of l'Osmothèque. He brought expertise, talent, a proven track record and, importantly for a house whose currency is status and standing, prestige. The position offered Ellena the possibility to play a critical part in shaping the state of the art of contemporary perfumery and pursuing a vision. It was a rare opportunity for a perfumer. It was a match made in heaven.

But was it also a deal with the devil?

Ellena’s body of work for Hermès defines the states of art and elegance. But it could be argued that Hermès’s explicit focus on finery, exclusivity and branding were a set of golden handcuffs for Ellena. Ellena’s minimalism and Hermès’s refinement might seem like a perfect match at a glance, but the incongruity is implicit. The company’s pristine objets are impeccable, but conceptually fussy. They stem from the decorative arts, but serve as dull finery and symbols of bourgeois prestige. Ellena’s minimalism is deliberate and rigorous, not a superficial style. His work is the result of years of contemplation and effort on the nature of perfumery. In a line of work where chasing the next brief defines long-term planning, Ellena’s body of work demonstrates a coherent vocabulary and philosophy.

So is Ellena’s work for Hermès restrained or constrained? The brand’s sheer, radiant perfumes with their controlled range of dynamics are thoughtful successors to perfumes like Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert (1992) and Osmanthus (2001) for the Different Company. But this is also the perfumer who made highly orchestrated perfumes such as Van Cleef and Arpels First (1976), l’Artisan Parfumeur l'Eau du Navigateur (1982), Rumba (1988) for Balenciaga and Amouage Dia (2002). Was this side of his work set aside during his tenure at Hermès? Will Jean-Claude Ellena step out of his rue du Faubourg St. Honore closet and live large starting in 2015?

Only the future will tell, but Cuir d’Ange provides an enticing hint.

Cuir d’Ange takes a full step away from the tone of Ellena’s prior work for Hermès. It is as composed and edited as the others in the Hermessense line, but it is far more lyrical. Where the majority of the Hermessence line are defined by a dispassionate understatement, Cuir d’Ange has an expansiveness, a brio that is almost startling. Ellena is known for having fine-tuned the narrowly evolving, quietly radiant perfume while at Hermès. He made perfumes that were not static but were largely linear. Cuir d’Ange has sweeping topnotes and a range of dynamics that are akin to those in Calèche, a perfume made by Guy Robert for Hermès in 1961. Cuir d’Ange simultaneously fits the brand’s legacy and Ellena’s oeuvre like no other perfume he’s made for the marque. It has a foot in the past and reaches into the future without sentimentality or contrivance.

(The relation of Cuir d’Ange and Caleche is conjecture, but it isn’t without precedent. Ellena’s Dia for Amouage was a response to Robert’s Amouage Gold [1983], the perfume that launched the Amouage line.)

Cuir d’Ange is a floral-leather, a category that existed before Hermès produced its first perfume. The nod to historical genre tells me that Ellena intends to work with, if not within, tradition. The specific floral quality of the perfume is unexpected. It is bitter and dusty with an herbal, soapy quality reminiscent of Ivoire de Balmain. The scent is strong and specific yet detached. Cuir d'Ange smells more specifically like suede than most leather perfumes, but suggests that the scent comes from objects in a nearby room. Despite the olfactory realism the perfume is abstract and it defeats the expectation of how a leather perfume should play out. It’s neither smokey nor woody and it never warms or sweetens. It becomes hushed over time, but stays soapy and cool, hovering just off the skin without ever becoming a ‘skin scent’ as most leather perfumes do.

Ellena’s work is both literate and legible. He uses a systematic and ordered approach to make expressive if subtle perfumes. His perfumes reveal a coherent aesthetic that can be read. He has both a sense of history and an intimate knowledge of the most recent innovations in perfumery. He is poised to leave Hermès into a wide open future and I’m keen to see what he’ll choose to do next.

from scenthurdle.com

May
17
2015
Gwizz
Gwizz

Another beauty from Jean Claude Ellena in the Hermessence line. Unquestionably modern, yet keeping a firm grip on the past. Not at all a beastly full throttle leather in the vain of Knize Ten, nor another version of Tuscan Leather and it's abundance of clones. This is the "watercolour" aesthetic famously employed by Ellena in this line, and never was that concept more evident than here in Cuir d'Ange.

The soft, supple presence of calf leather is softened further with a delicate floral accord (heliotrope shining through) and an ethereal musk, all combining to create an aerial, almost powdery, soft leather scent that is undeniably beautiful. The leather is never in your face, nor do the florals ever become too saccharine, the sum of which is an entirely genderless, wearable and unobtrusive scent. Elegant, classy, modern and for a leather, quite versatile. Lasts well and projects discreetly. A triumph in a genre which was beginning to feel tapped out.
Lovely.

Apr
17
2015
secamel
secamel

Sometimes I'm sad for no good reason. Doctors call it "depression." Meh. That's just a name. A good joke makes me smile. Cuir d`Ange too. It's that good. Like a hug. From that person. Yeah. That person. Try it.

Apr
11
2015
RosieRachel
RosieRachel

Pretty and minimalist. I liked this, but i don't love it enough to rush out and purchase a bottle.

On my skin, Cuir D'Ange is a very soft suede that smells quite light and supple. Small nuances of powder or musk emerge during the dry-down. It's not as floral as Kelly Caleche, as it seemed as though the delicate florals were mainly there to support the suede, which does make sense as the fragrance is unisex. However, the perfume didn't project much and there was only a very soft sillage; longevity was for about 3-4 hours. I am learning that leather loves me in the colder months, but suede, not so much.

Apr
08
2015
archivist
archivist

The opening of Cuir d'Ange suggests a fallen angel - there's a short burst of something powerfully animalic, but it is very quickly tamed. It soon becomes incredibly similar to the post-2013 L'Heure Bleue reformulation; heliotrope, musk, violet, but on a leather base instead of oliban/sandalwood. The similarity is fairly striking, though LHB comes out a clear winner for being more complex, richer, and more intense (EDP). I do love this variation on LHB though, with the lovely leather. This leather is much more soft and supple than the one found in Kelly Caleche.

Reformulated LHB is considerably less spendy than Cuir d'Ange, but this is definitely worth trying if you're an LHB devotee and would like to smell it with leather in the composition.

Apr
01
2015
rainbowpickett
rainbowpickett

This could be an Iris scent too. Its soft leather accord might recall the one in Penhaligon`s Iris Prima. Not sweet like the salty vanilla in IP but it bares the prickling of sugary notes. Not creamy but it hints at the corpulence of sheer powder and clean floral musk. In comparison Cuir d'Ange is the cooler, simpler (less complex and more reduced) composition, baring no other intended literal analogy besides to leather, but acting similarly winsome.

In the beginning leather is paired with the flavor of brand new impregnation, waxy and petroleum/plastic-like. During wear it seems to stay at times closer to the skin than its underlying structure. A structure reminiscent of Bois Farine (Jean Claude Ellena, 2003), the smell of flour and raw cooky dow. Though the hierarchy is clearly defined – here cooky dow works as the foundation, while leather is the theme and floral notes behave as subtle radiance in a sheer and vaguely pulsating (Iso E Super) composition.

As most or eventually all of the Hermessences, Cuir d'Ange is a skin scent with a current, simultaneously timeless feel, homely, dapper, deeply bourgeois, for mainly middle-aged to aged buyers. But it can do more. Through its equivalently fragmented construction it might appear open to wearers of any age, gender or other less explicit social affiliation.

Mar
23
2015
Wise-222
Wise-222

PERFECT WORK,I HAVE NEVER TRIED LEATHER LIKE THAT.

Feb
22
2015
Allan R
Allan R

I did not expect to like Cuir d'Ange so much. To me, this is the most surprising scent from Ellena in a long time.

I love the creamy heliotrope note, which here is not foody/vanillic at all, and is perfectly balanced with the other notes. My only prior experience with heliotrope was from my parents garden, and I would never have imagined it could be blended in such a way that it could feel masculine.

Soft and clean leather, unsweetened, unsmokened, uncomplicated. The work of an artist (as if there were any doubts).

9/10

Jan
16
2015
henri345que
henri345que

I guess that i will never know if i really love or get indiferent towards Jean Claude Ellena current work because when i think he has become repetitious here comes one of his creations like Cuir d'Anges that touchs me on my emotional in a way that my past critiques seems useless.Like all of his creations, there is a recurrent vibe that if you look on for some time you will be able to identify the similarty with one or more of his previous works. However, in this one there is still something new and i think it's quite interesting the effect he has achieved here for me: the framing of a classic aroma into a modern, minimalist, but not dull shape. Cuir d'Ange reminds me of the classic Cuir de Russie aroma and i suspect that there is some birch or some material here with a birch like aroma causing this impression. It's the first thing that i notice, the lustrous, waxy leather, of polished new boots, an aroma that for some reason reminds me so much of the tailoring workplace of my paternal grandfather. It's so interesting to me that Ellena puts its idea inside of his mineral and vegetal aroma, used mainly on Voyage d'Hermes and on his The Different Company Bois d'Iris. It's like this base is playing the light and brigh side of the Cuir de RUssie aroma that would be made mainly of classic citrus note. Cuir d'Ange also has that oily, gasoline-like aroma that you get in classic Fahrenheit formulations, but at the same time he has that chic floral leather aroma of Kelly Caleche, that here shows itself in its iris, leather and narcisse nuances without the fruity and rose nuances. Altough being minimalist, Cuir d'Ange seems to me complex, harmonic and thick and it's one of the best Ellena works that i have smelled on this last years. This i would gave 5 stars of five, it's flawless and brilliant.

Jan
13
2015
hunterblu
hunterblu

So...I have been trying to find this to sample but alas.

Hermes in San Francisco says they do not have it when I call (before making the two hour drive into the city), Barneys and Saks do not have it either.

Hermes.com do not have samples available (although they do of just about all their other fragrances that are currently in production).

I have been looking to add a leather fragrance to my collection for some time but it has to be just right and when I heard about this and saw the notes...well, I simply swooned.

Heliotrope, violet, narcissus...all three absolute favorites of mine. Jean Claude authoring this particular tale as well? Incredibly excited.

Anyone want to swap/sell a sample?

Cheers

Jan
06
2015
genny17
genny17

I feel this is definitely on the masculine side, the leather is quite potent, and even in the drydown , it is unisex to my nose...thinking of ange II expected something softer, more rounded...it is still a great scent, but not for me...it is in the vein of Kelly Caleche, same type of horse stable leather...full grain...maybe even more unisex in cuir d' Ange.
I prefer my leather subtle, and dominated by floral or musky notes.

Dec
13
2014
HUEbris
HUEbris

Yes, It is a leather of angel. not smoothed, not polished, still have its feather. spicy and rough also very nutty. maybe touch of pyrogen.
It soon become powdery and floral-heliotrope, violet, musk. two-faced.
leather-floral-woody-musk. another new level for leather scent.
Is could be a success? I'm not sure but acknowledge that this one is work of the maestro. I don't like it but admire it.

Dec
12
2014
manos1965
manos1965

The best Real leather perfume ever smelled and i have some of the best in my collection and dozens i have try.Work of a genious.

Dec
08
2014
Liamsardea
Liamsardea

The master of minimalism does it again, with a fragrance unlike much of his previous Hermessence works.

Here we look at leather in a different light, diminishing the libidinous qualities and the sexual timbre of phenolic-driven leathers, often layered with hints of super sweet fruits and rectified birch tar smelling like sweat and shoebox.

I can’t recall an Ellena fragrance that uses predominantly a leather composition, so I naturally looked forward for his take on it. Like most of Ellena’s Hermessence work, he always has a certain angle to a perfume. Iris Ukiyoe was inspired by Japanese watercolours, whilst Poivre Samarcande was inspired by a grand oak tree that eventually grew ill outside of Ellena’s house. The tree felled, and released a scent Ellena loved and recreated through fragrance. Thus, Cuir d’Ange is inspired by Ellena’s great love of literature, and his deep affection for the works of Jean Giorno and in particular Jean le Bleu which mentions the term cuir d’ange, or angel leather.

Jean-Claude wonderfully implies that he himself is an author – but uses smells and scents as his words. And hence, Cuir d’Ange is poetry for leather on skin – a seamless duet, balancing between romanticism and tautness. A novel take on a leather fragrance.

Deceptively simple, I pick up two accords from Cuir d’Ange:

The first is a leather accord of superlative degree. It is supple, smooth and hosts an airy richness. I am instantly reminded of handbags; the best kind of course. Hermès is a house famous for their leathers (I personally love their silks too) and they use an assortment of amazing calf leathers with an amazing sheen quality to it, with a persuasive sturdiness. I am particularly fond of their colourful Ulysee notebooks with a delicious leather cover and the revered Sac a Depeche, which I call colloquially: the male Birkin bag.

I have delineated my love for Hermès leather because of the quality and in turn, the quality of its scent. Jean-Claude explains how leather innately contains immense complexities, with very delicate floral nuances. Ellena visited the trove of leathers stored by Hermès and was captivated by the luxuriousness of it all. He explored the subtle differences and the differing smells each piece of tanned leather contained and found that “The most expensive pieces smelled of flowers”. Leather innately has a restrictive feel to it, a sense of tension and constriction. The robusta and gusto of leather is romantic when it smells worn in.

Cuir d’Ange opens with a dizzy and imperceptible floral accord (the other accord) lifting the leather to its angel status. Diaphanous yet imperative in achieving the desired effect, the florals give a saccharine tang against the leather backdrop; like flowers in a leather vase. A clean style of musk is obvious throughout the life of this fragrance, hinting at tobacco and beeswax subtleties and connotations. I am also fond of the use of heliotrope, giving the old school melancholy feel, entwined with fleshly hawthorn flower that opens with a note reminiscent of sesame seeds and a very light eugenol clove giving warmth and radiance – I get a metallic jump from the violet used, only adding to the skin and leather effect. Cuir d’Ange also has a soapy quality surrounding it, as if rough skin has been scrubbed and polished to buttery state. Cool tones of iris, suede, heady narcissus and a contrasting bitterness are also to be found, and together smells like copy paper and new books. It is creamy without the usual vanilla, and that’s rather pleasing to smell from time to time.

This fragrance is narcotic for sure, and very comforting. I love to contrast this against Tuscan Leather by Tom Ford, with this being the romantic fragrance, and Tuscan Leather being the raspberry and raunchy driven aftermath. The overloaded musk gives Cuir d’Ange its romantic appeal, with the dry leather as well being tempted by a pale almond note.

A leather made into watercolour. Very well balanced. 4/5

Dec
08
2014
farang
farang

It is a soft and beautiful fragrance, a leather-musk-floral combo. In fact it is VERY soft and comes across as a kind of powdery though not real powdery, and I personally like my leathers a bit more rough. Thus, I'd rather smell this on a woman.

It is a high quality composition and long lasting.

Nov
25
2014
muskymoi
muskymoi

Heaven leather heaven leather, musk, then some fleeting floral, then powdery leather, then deep slumber dancing in the clouds of my sweet leather dreams. This is exceedingly good. Thus far, the only Hermessence I'd be willing to buy the full bottle of. I may be on a current leather bender but this one is just a quality fragrance composed by a genius nose. It's totally wearable and sexy and molds itself to its wearer. Feminine on my skin and less feminine on manflesh. A++++++

Nov
14
2014
Guest_Colin Maillard
Guest_Colin Maillard

The new Cuir d’Ange by Hermès is undoubtedly a gorgeous scent, showing an actual careful work, great composition skills (not that we needed a confirmation for that), and perfect choice of materials. As-is, the idea is not new: basically a floral-suede scent with a subtle, slightly earthy floral accord of narcissus and heliotrope topped with musky-anisic-spicy tips, but Ellena succeeds in making it smell completely innovative and unique, putting together an impressively crystalline, sharp, clear, deep scent – not a “thick” deepness, rather airy, almost celestial as the name suggests. Cuir d’Ange is ethereal and minimalist in a way, as regards to the composition, yet really dense and with a quite bold projection. The leather accord (which I am usually quite picky about) is great, carrying a range of nuances from musky to silky/polished, all conveyed in a slightly drier and more “roasted” accord if compared to the usual and over-used (most of times, rather uncreatively) safraleine/suederal bases. It smells contemporary and synthetic in a way, but not conventional. Floating all over, a gentle and slightly resinous anisic-floral breeze with a sort of subtle “milky” substance (or better say “watery” in a liquid, mineral meaning – not ozonic, shortly), melting with a powdery white musks note, all together colouring this scent with delicate pastel hints of grace. Simple yet complex and incredibly well executed, showing all Ellena’s clever elegance and ability in creating a thin scent full of nuances and notes which fill the space at the same time leaving it airy and “empty”. Beautiful and also quite persistent despite being close to skin (as you would expect, from both this type of fragrance and Ellena’s style). A bit linear perhaps, but not a flaw here. I can not think of any particular similarity with other scents, as this really brings the floral-leather genre to another level, but I'll agree with the below-mentioned similarities with Guerlain's Cuir Beluga or Heeley's Cuir Pleine Fleur, but the distance from both (and others) is wide enough - just more a matter of general inspiration. So, in short, a sophisticated and terribly pleasant scent which is compelling and remarkable to every extent, and most important, totally unique and distinctive despite showing a deceptively “already-seen” pyramid of notes. Now, if the market situation was different and there were more remarkable new scents around (as I wished), I’d be probably less enthusiastic and rate this only as a “really good” scent; but given the dramatic lack of new ideas and good scents both in niche and mainstream, this is a memorable standout. Probably more costly than it should be, but nice enough to be worth it (perhaps...).

8,5-9/10

Nov
13
2014
joyjoy
joyjoy

This was a real disappointment for me. My impressions are a soft leather (but not suede), floral with an eau de cologne flavor. Some people have mentioned marine notes but to me it's bergamot or neroli or something similar. It smells very european to me & I can't really recall what I think it smells like but maybe certain soaps. Not a fan.

Nov
11
2014
cumulnimbus
cumulnimbus

Cuir d'Ange on me is a beautiful soft light creamy bittersweet still bright leather/suede scent. I really love leather note and here it appears with an original, elegant and I would even say happy tender twist. I really appreciate this aspect of it as my other favorite leather perfumes are a bit blue and gloomy as Jolie Madame or Gomma. Cuir d'ange is playfull in comparison but still holds their dusty classic feel.

Absolutely perfect and exquisitely blended perfume, which works as the softest and most alluring suede/leather layer over my skin. Delicate, genderless and attractive.

Definitely an everyday perfume, almost a skin scent after the first hour, discreet but with a decent longevity of 6/7 hours,which is good for Hermessance standards. I'm happy this one stays on my skin one or two hours more than other ones of the collection which I find too weak.

Nov
04
2014
craftyminx
craftyminx

I wanted to try this when I was at the local Hermes boutique today, but they haven't gotten it yet! I'm so looking forward to it. I've loved Kelly Caleche for a long time, and JCE does beautiful things with femme leather scents.

Oct
25
2014
alfarom
alfarom

First of all first: Finally, an Hermessence I like.

I actually like a bunch of them and while I think JC Ellena is one of the undisputed masters of modern perfumery, I can't still count myself amongst the hardcore fans of Hermessence's *watercolor* interpretations of fragrances…with that said, Cuir D'Ange, just like Osmanthe Yunnan and a few others from the line, it's a tremendous exception.

I'd divide leathers in two main groups for this review. On one side I'll put the classic, animalic-driven floral leathers a-la Cuir De Russie and Knize 10 (to name just two of the most popular in this category). Well, I'm a total sucker for this interpretation of the main theme but the problem with these old-school type of compositions is that they gave birth to a plethora of clones (and semi-clones) that while I still quite like most of them, I also think they're all more or less kind of redundant (Cuir Cannage, Cuir Mauresque, Xerjoff Homme, Royal English Leather, Etro Gomma…and countless others). On the other side, there are the modern and hyper modern leathers a-la Cuir Pleine Fleurs, Alan Cumming's Cumming, Comme Des Garcons EDP 2011, Askew…

Well, Cuir D'Ange, while feeling somewhat classic (as in *classy*) it's also unquestionably modern. It's a new take on the floral-leather theme achieved by learning the lesson of the classics and bringing it to completely new territories. Yes, all of the Hermessence's hallmarks are there and make of Cuir D'Ange such a refreshing and novel delivery in a genre that's too often becoming a caricature of itself. I won't spend many words in dissecting notes as this is one of those fragrances I love (and encourage you) to experience as a whole. An incredibly sophisticated and an ultra-elegant composition where everything is perfectly in check as only a true master can do.

Completely genderless.

Rating: 8.5-9/10

Oct
14
2014
fuggerone
fuggerone

delicate flowery leather cyphre.. nontheless masculine to the top..made to be enjoyed in a downtown late summer afternoon, maybe strolling the Milan streets
9/10

Oct
04
2014
jeca
jeca

Oh yes, I am looking forward to get more information about this perfume. The name is questionable to me though....

Jul
24
2014

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