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James Heeley launches the Extrait de Parfum collection of three perfume extract Agarwoud, L'Amandier and Bubblegum Chic. The collection includes contemporary scents of high concentration of the finest quality ingredients.
Agarwoud contains notes of benzoin, rose, oud and amber.
Inspirational words are: extrait de devotion, serenity, eagle, prayer, space, meditation, temple, prince, Siddhartha, gold, dark, wood, forest, power, mind, fertility, mist, rising, control, wealth, poverty, spirit, forever.
It is available as 50 ml perfume extract. Agarwoud was launched in 2011.
For four years in the making Agarwoud is unfortunately ... um ... rather uninspired and uninspiring. So I'd say for fans of rose flavoured ouds only. (But even then, there are already so many such that far surpass it. So all in all a touch redundant unfortunately. So I'd change that to, for die-hard Heeley fan-heads only rather.)
When I first saw this new line by Heeley I really got excited to see he finally decided to introduce in the market three new fragrances in extrait de parfums diluition. I've always been a "fan" of many of his previous fragrances such as Cuir Pleine Fleur, Sel Marin and Iris De Nuit but longevity has always been an issue, so seeing these extraits made me think about something even more satysfying. Last but not least, my curiosity to smell Heeley's take on oud was definitely genuine. This is to say that I was really well disposed towards this new launches and I was sure to smell something brilliant, original and unique.
I got the three samples together with an informative brochure and I decided to start with Agarwoud (Agarwoud?? I had to double check it wasn't a typo). Looking at the inspirational words I see "Siddartha", "Extrait De Devotion", "Control", "Poverty"...I started getting suspicios. Ok, let's smell it...
Yet another iteration of the rose/oud combo? Really??? Ok, calm down. Rumours wants that this composition has been on the making for more than four years, so at the time we weren't yet overwhelmed by the oud overkill and James Heeley was probably not aware of the huge amount of oud compositions that in a few years would have over crowded the market.
Agarwoud smells like the basic structure of many western oud-centered compositions. It's not as boombastic and dark as Black Aoud and the rose note is definitely more restrained. It's not refined and opulent as Epic Woman. It doesn't have the gourmandic twist of Red Aoud...it's just oud and rose laying on an ambery base. Minimalistic (as many of the Heeley's previous compositions), moderately powerful (considering is an extrait), honestly crafted but not particularly interesting.
Overall Agarwoud smells fine but it arrived on the market a bit too late.
As a friend used to say: "What's... Agarwoud? It wood if it could."
Rating: 6.5/10
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