Divine Folie Jean Patou for women

I'm completely at a loss to recall the exactitude of this, but one of the famed Ma Collection scents was purportedly the only comp ever specifically created for natural redheads: It was either "Adieu Sagesse," or this one. I'm inclined to think it is this ine as not only is the 80's re-do by Jean Kerleo colour-coded in varrying shades of amber, saffron, tangerine, chartreuse and hot pink, what would arguably the perfect colour-scheme for any redhead's closet, but the scent, also, seems tailored to the specifically acrid smelling red-headed skin. I know for certain this much: Amour Amour was specifically destined for natural blondes, and Que Sais-je? for brunettes. This is obvious in their scents, but the remnants of advertisements all clearly indicate this bifurcation. The red head piece--It has to be "Divine Folie." Adieu Sagesse is far too subtle and not nearly as strong as is required to masque the red headed natural body odour. Anyone who is or has dated or is married to a true blue carrot top will know precisely what I mean: The red-headed musk is so sharp, you can cut it with a knife, and its characteristics are very singular, notably there is a sourness born of low-filled oil glands: Redheads typically have very dry skin. This scent, then is appropriately pin-prick tight, and dense beyond belief: It is a very expertly blended comp: No specific scent can be detected, save perhaps for a brooding resin in the base that almost smells like cough sirup. I would imagine this scent coming out today under the Comme des Garcons umbrella and none other, for it is weird in that winning way that only CdG seems to master nowadays. The minute you put it on, you know you hae something exceptional on your skin: It sort of has that Kenzo Jungle Elephant 'WOW!" factor in the flight, where you are pretty bowled over and wonder if you will or will not have the nerve to leave the house smelling like that. Once it settles down, there is a bit of a medicinal air to it, a la Comme des Garcons Original. Obviously, there are cloves in this front row centre that never fade, but it never gets sickening the way Caron scents do. Interestingly, Divine Folie is very "Caron" in structure, minus the vulgarity: Patou scents can be many things but they are never "easy" the way Carons are, in that "come and get me" kind of way. There is no such thing as a patou that doesn't quietly whisper "keep your distance," and all were designed to be experienced mostly in sillage and not upfront and personal. This is how they came to be so enchanting and sought after by so many members of royal families, movie-stars, and grandiose dames and gentlemen. Today, Divine folie could conceivable by worn by a man, or a woman. Being a scent of the 30's it has that gender-confusion in spades that in those days was in such vogue. One can easily imagine that on a natural redhead with sparkling green eyes and transparent skin, this would be irresistible. Unlike some of the other "Ma Collection" series, it seems perfectly modern today: So modern in fact that one wonders what the reaction to it was in the day of its launch: It was never a huge hit, neither in its time, nor in the Ma Collection series. It's not that it doesn't smell appropriately "divine;" on the contrary--it's very "divine." It's the "Folie" that is disquieting. Folie means act of delirium. Just as Comme des Garcons Original shocked everyone when it came out in the 90's, using a barcode as a logo and smelling light dental numbing ointment, I would imagine many today have that same shock when faced with "Divine Folie." It's very heady but in a controlled way: Very sexy but not in the least bit tawdry. As for its treatment of leather, which is a theme that runs through it begining to end, it is masterfully handled: We have here no butch biker jacket: Perhaps a pair of well worn unlined goat skin or calf hand stiched gloves in a pale colour, like peach or rose-bud pink. Those of you who find "En Avion" by Caron to be "all that" will think differently after experiencing this, as, being somewjat the same type of fragrance, this one makes the other look cheap and frankly desperate.

"Oscar" by Oscar de la Renta (made 1977) almost copied "Divine Folie". I kid you not! They are very identical. This is 50% "Oscar" + 50% Guerlain "L'heure bleu". "Divine Folie" smells more expencive, sweeter, and much more rounded, and more well done than todays "Oscar" in those tall bottles. "Oscar" is my signature-scent. So this came as a big SUPRISE to me, as I've always thought "Oscar" is such a scent that stands out from the crowd! Fascinating ineed! I'd go for "L'heure bleu" instead of this hard-to-find $$$ discontinued one.

Ooh, how nice that they added this.
I recieved this as an added bonus when I purchased from Rie Rien.com.

What a lovely gesture, I must say! If you ever have a chance to try this, please do, it is worthy of the term 'classic'.

My thoughts: I didn't swoon over this the way I have over other 30s fragrances, but I appreciated the soft, overall effect. This wears 'heavy and dusty', which probably comes from age (I'm not sure how fresh my sample was). This is one situation where I'd like to see some aldehydes added, to bring in a little sparkle. That is what I felt this needed.

The middle phase was my favorite, warm, earthy florals. Longevity is average,4-6 hours. Another good, solid fragrance to come out of the 'depression' years.