Moment Supreme Jean Patou for women

This relatively unknown Jean Patou fragrance, should be considered a classic by all means. So much attention has been given to Joy over the last few decades, that other fragrances from this line have somehow fallen under the radar. This shouldn't be so.

Moment Supreme is beautiful, rich and smooth on the skin. It dances delicately between being a spicy floral and a dry chypre. It is not unlike Guerlain's Jicky in its approach, however I find Moment Supreme much softer and more powdery.

The scent opened on my skin with a glorious blend of bergamot, jasmine and sweet, syrupy peach. Before long the lavender made a rather aromatic entrance, signalling that this fragrance was of an oriental nature. Moment Supreme is enough to make a statement, however it never comes across as being overdone or too loud. The balance is just right.

Moment Supreme somehow reminds me of Cruella de Vil; quirky, fashionable and sleek, but perhaps less evil. The smoky, incensey drydown conjures up the image of her puffing away with her gloved hand holding a long, red cigarette holder.

I'm not certain as to how old my sample is, or from what decade it was made, but what I do know, is that it still smells beautiful. The longevity is quite impressive too, however I assume it would last a lot longer in its fresher, newer self. Take that as a hint Jean Patou, but please bring it back with no major or minor tweaks to the composition.

I can't imagine the dilemma faced by a sophisticated woman in 1929 when Moment Supreme and Joy were released at the same time. Joy's praises are still widely sung but most have forgotten Moment Supreme, Joy's spicier cousin.

I met Moment Supreme at an estate sale in a mostly empty bottle. (It was on my wrists before I was out of the car.) The perfume opened immediately with lavender and cloves; I couldn't decide if it was soapy or sharp, like a sweet liqueur. After about ten minutes the rose and jasmine came up(the notes shared with Joy), settling back into a clove-infused floral richness. Since then I've alternately smelled musk and spices(I swear there's ginger in here),whiffs of lavender and rose, and a delightful perfect balance of jasmine and musk. The difficulty of writing this review has come from the perfume's constant shape shifting. I never did detect the bergamot, but citrus notes are the first to go and I'm not sure it was handled with much care.

I've been pleasantly shocked many times by big well-made perfumes (Piguet Bandit anyone?)but I've never understood intoxicating until now. The perfume stays close so the only way it can be appreciated by others is to get very close. This is the perfume Brigid O'Shaughnessy (Maltese Falcon) would have worn.
Sillage: very close
Lasts: fairly long so far
5/5