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Iris Poupre is a fragrance by Keiko Mecheri presented in 2009. The perfume incorporates iris, ylang ylang, iris root and chypre accords. Available as 75ml edp.
I don’t immediately smell anything resembling iris, but rather an assertive, citrusy, aldehydic opening, presumably the citrus top notes of the chypre accord. These dissipate quickly, leaving behind a sweet, only slightly powdery orris along with some other floral notes. I really don’t smell ylang-ylang as a separate note. Instead, it recedes into the general blend, softening and sweetening it. There’s a little bit of that refried bean scent that’s characteristic of orris, but not too much.
After an hour or so the fragrance sharpens up again, but not in a citrus or aldehydic way. There’s an almost ambergris-like note that shades everything with a golden sparkle. This is the point where the scent really comes into its own, with lovely sillage. In the end, the drydown seems more ambery than mossy, but in any case it’s very good. The scent lasts 6-8 hours on skin, and evolves quite a bit during that time. I like it a lot.
Keiko Mecheri IRIS POURPRE (that's purple iris, not xivwoidvnwob iris...) is a sort of inverted chypre perfume which begins dark and a bit dirty and slowly transforms into a spare, pristine iris solifore as innocent as a newborn child. The evolution of this composition reminds me of a corrupt person who suddenly has an awakening and decides to begin his life all over again, leaving all of his dingy past behind. Old habits die hard, but slowly, over time, he transforms into a new person bearing scant resemblance to the person who did what he once did.
I'm intrigued by the structure of this fragrance, how what would usually be basenotes appear as topnotes and somehow the clean iris prevails in the end. I do find the drydown slightly powdery, but mostly clean. IRIS POURPRE has good staying power and medium sillage, and its unique structure sets it apart from other niche-quality iris perfumes.
Sunshine, lollipops and ... a touch of oil?
Iris Pourpre is such an utterly warm fragrance that it almost feels deep-fried for the first half or so. Exactly as Kterhark said - "golden" indeed but not always like a flower. Sometimes like a delicious liberty fry.
But what an opening! If this is death by ylang-ylang, I want no other. This perfume is worth it just for that. The iris that follows feels stripped of its aristocracy without the usual massive blast of powder (I detect some though), which you don't often see. I'm not particularly fond of the transition, though, from the opening ylang-ylang to the heart and base of iris - there's a period of ylang-ylang's sweetness superimposing on the reserved iris starting to peek through, and that's not a coherent picture to me.
What I really like about this scent (besides the ylang-ylang!) is that it is natural and unassuming - like most of Keiko Mecheri's creations and unlike most of iris scents. If I could avoid spraying it every five minutes to get a fresh blast of ylang-ylang, I'd get a full bottle in a heartbeat.
Iris Poupre ... finally I get to try it. Tanks to 'Chandramukhi', she gave me a saple.
These three notes should be so nice together, I thought, surely it is also true but not on my skin :(
On me the development got weird... in an unpleasant salty manner.
ThisIris Poupre will be loved by someone else.
A month ago i was walking through the redwood forest when I came across patches of wild iris. I plucked a flower, gave it a good sniff and was instantly reminded of freshly snapped green beans with a hint of sweetness.
Here it is blended with oily, earthy ylang ylang and it loses the greenbean affect and takes on an almost 'oriental' feel; like a golden, ambery iris.
This is one of my favorite notes and I am very sensitive to cheap, poorly made synthetic versions. This is one I could see myself adding to my collection someday; it's well done.
one thing that surprises me: i'm not getting that powdery, iris dry down. I certainly get this in Citizen Queen, Chamade and l'heure bleue, but not so much here. Again, this is more of a 'golden' iris.
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