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Sagamore by Lancome is a Chypre fragrance for men. Sagamore was launched in 1986. Top notes are lavender, clary sage, petit grain, bergamot and lemon; middle notes are carnation, ginger, cinnamon, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, rose and geranium; base notes are sandalwood, amber, patchouli, musk, benzoin, vanilla and styrax.
Top Notes
Middle Notes
Base Notes
The following is for Programme Homme, which some claim is the same fragrance:
This starts off as a fairly traditional aromatic fougere of the 1980s, possibly closest to Azzaro Pour Homme, but with a touch of Kouros as well. That lasts for a couple of hours. What sets it apart is how nicely blended it is, relative to others of this genre, because it has that "manly" quality without becoming irritating in any way. After a couple of hours it gradually transitions into a a superb base that clearly has some castoreum. There is also dry/dusty patchouli and a spice element. Other notes are the "supporting cast," with a clear floral aspect. The lavender (from the fougere type opening) lasts a long time and there is a subtle woody presence. It's definitely not especially sweet. A couple hours later, it smells a bit like Acteur at the same point in development, which is dry, woody, slightly powdery, floral, and with a touch of sweetness. I prefer this to vintage Antaeus, for example, because I view that as more of a "mansweat" fragrance, whereas PH has more complexity and dynamism. One Man Show, on the other hand, has more distinct notes, but is far cruder (especially up top), with inferior blending (and likely inferior ingredients).
Some have said this is identical to Sagamore. The notes to that one are listed as:
"Top notes are lavender, clary sage, petit grain, bergamot and lemon; middle notes are carnation, ginger, cinnamon, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, rose and geranium; base notes are sandalwood, amber, patchouli, musk, benzoin, vanilla and styrax."
However, if Sagamore does not contain castoreum, then I can't imagine these two being identical. Also, PH seems to have an anisic quality in the top notes. Otherwise, the notes could be the same. It certainly seems that PH has patchouli, a wood note, geranium, and florals. Ginger and cinnamon seem right as well. So, PH goes from being a little rough (for a couple hours), in the typical aromatic fougere way, to being a kind of fougere/Oriental hybrid. There is a bit of a "cream" effect but not enough to make it boring. Projection ("sillage") varies, from being strong at first to being moderate/good several hours later. However, that is with one or two sprays. Longevity is excellent.
Although classified as a Chypre, vintage Sagamore seems more lika a cross between a spicy fougere and a citrus chypre. The fragrance has elements from both families and the combination is solid in the way that 80`s fragrance used to be. The first moments of the fragrance are typical from that era, starting with a huge lavender note, followed by some bitter citrus aromas. Something mossy, but without being dirty, seems to appear on the beginning already, but isn`t the dominant note, as the fragrance develops to a spicy and powdery heart. The cinnamon is evident. although not so much because it`s very blended with the carnation. I cannot pick the flowers on this one, they seem more like a powdery floral aroma, that unfold gradually a kind of vanilla-tonka accord at the base, do in the old style, withouth smelling gourmand but adding a subtle sweetness to the ambered musky base. Classy and elegant, the kind of fragrance that unfortunately was abandomned by most of men.
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