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Patchouli 24 by Le Labo is a Woody Chypre fragrance for men. Patchouli 24 was launched in 2006. The nose behind this fragrance is Annick Menardo. Top note is patchouli; middle notes are birch and styrax; base note is vanilla.
Top Notes
Middle Notes
Base Notes
This is an outstanding, slightly crazy fragrance of great imagination and complexity: a pungeant, smoky mix of birch tar, leather,vanilla and woods.
It's a work of genius but it does remind me of the smell of medical dressings, unfortunately. As soon as I can get over that I might make a purchase in the future!
What happens when you soak a dirty leather jacket in a vat of Lapsang Souchong tea? Well, I think that the result would be similar to the opening of the perhaps misleadingly named Le Labo PATCHOULI 24. I suppose that it's because patchouli frags have flooded the market and most of them are totally (in some cases overwhelmingly) patchouli-centric that I was so very surprised to find such a heavy leather scent in a vial labeled PATCHOULI 24. I do think that there is a bit of patchouli here, but it is hidden within a zipped pocket of the Lapsang Souchong-soaked leather jacket. There is also a brief appearance of an ever-so-slight touch of booziness initially, but it smooths out rather swiftly, producing only a slight tempering of the leather by the drydown.
I gather that the leather-Lapsang Souchong effect (what many are describing as "campfire"--and perhaps that's more apt, or at least more consistent with the dirty leather jacket...) is somehow alchemically produced out of birch tar and styrax. Whatever the case may be, this composition is at least unisex, if not fully masculine. Well, unless the woman in question happens to be a biker, in which case PATCHOULI 24 would work quite nicely, I think. I should add, though, that the drydown is quite a bit softer, as though the leather has been rendered more supple by the tea infusion--or was it just the quickly slammed shot of whiskey finally kicking in?
Yet again I am impressed by the power and longevity of a Le Labo creation, but this one's not for me, although I did enjoy the Harley test ride to view the dying embers of a California wild fire at dusk.
Everybody knows Annick Menardo is a genious and Patchouli 24 is surely among her most relevant compositions but, where many of her deliveries have striked as *yummy yummy* gourmands, P24 it's more like a gourmand that nobody would dare to eat. It opens with a breathtaking smoked ham/meat note joined by leather (birch?), dark smoky tea and a rubber vibe that definitely resembles of both Lonestar Memories and Bulgari Black...but at the n-th power. Patchouli, animalic notes and vanilla make their appearance right away bringing the composition into a more comforting territory but still nowhere close being easily approachable. Leather is prominent throughout and provides a good balance to the sweeter woody/vanilla drydown.
Overall, more than a patchouli centered composition, I get P24 as a leather/vanilla fragrance with a twist and while the similar Bulgari Black is definitely more wearable, it still strikes as a sort of edulcorated version of P24 which I see as a big step forward in the same direction. Be carefull with dosage. Super projection and tenacious lasting power.
Salubrious and toxic at the same time. Definitely not for everybody.
Rating: 8.5/10
Autumn in a bottle! I find it totally unisex, if you are a girl who likes camp fires in the woods as I do, you will love this! It smells of incense, pine resin and woodsmoke, with a nice sweetish base that prevents it being the kind of scent only Bear Grylls could wear. I love it and am going to keep my little sample for the Autumn when I can use it to blend in with the scents of the season.
smoky scent the smokiest scent I've ever tried.
i can't distinguish nothing more than smoke light and crispy
atypical scent seems like an exercise of elite perfumery.
it blend with the skin in a good way.
try before buy
for man
I think le labo is the king of smoky parfums:patchouli-oud-santal and in some ways rose
Was reformulated. As of June 2011.
Email from Le Labo
We are taking the freedom to connect with you to inform you that the formula of Patchouli 24 has slightly changed.
An ingredient that is used in this creation has ceased to be harvested and produced and we have had to replace it with other ingredients.
As you might know, replacing an ingredient in perfumery is not an easy task, especially if you are obsessed with creation. Although we have been able to retain 99% of Patchouli 24's olfactive esthetic, its color has changed; the deep amber juice will now be a very light yellow.
Patchouli 24 is one of our most daring creations and modifying any creation of ours is heartbreaking. However in some instances we have no choice and in this case we have decided to continue making our beloved Patchouli 24 despite the very slight impact on its original creative intention and despite the more important impact on its color.
Even if it is now of a more clear color, we are very happy with the fact the perfume is still delivering fully its smoky and vibrant soul...
Enjoy,
The founders.
Unico, sensual, intrigante, lleno de misterio... Absolutamente magnifico. No puedo dejar de olerlo una y otra vez descubriendo nuevos matices de este exquisito perfume. Es, sin duda, perfecto para una noche de invierno en la que se quiera embriagar a alguien especial... Un rotundo 10 sobre 10 para Patchouli 24 de Le Labo...
I don't get any of the smoky undertone of this fragrance, just a huge waft of vanilla. It's pretty much gourmand on me. Pleasant, but I won't be rushing out to buy a bottle.
Patchouli 24 is quite possibly one of the smokiest scents I'll ever experience. This scent is not entirely patchouli like the name suggests, not earthy and green like most fragrances with this accord.
There is a striking dustiness that is all too beautiful on the skin. At times this fragrance reminds me of camp-fires, ash and incense, all the things that I find appealing. It is no wonder that I love this scent so much.
The vanilla which tends to linger softly behind the smokey patchouli and woodsy notes, is divine and rather feministic. I must say that I'm a very feminine person, and I do not agree that this is strictly for men. It is too beautiful not to be shared between genders.
There is a touch of leather in this composition which provides a sensual, animalistic quality. For that reason alone I'm tempted to wear this out on the town to see the various reactions from men. To me, Patchouli 24 is the scent of a confident and captivating seductress.
I love Rebella's description, "velvety smoke" which I find sums up this fragrance perfectly. Be forewarned that this fragrance is rather intense, being heavy in its projection and lasting on the skin. If you've ever tried Annick Goutal's Les Orientalistes range, Patchouli 24 smells very similar to Myrrhe Ardente and Encens Flamboyant.
This is not a patchouli fragrance, as is almost to be expected if Le Labo names it that. However, if you enjoy smelling like "Katenschinken" (a heavily smoked North German ham) it is just the right perfume for you. Since I dislike Tauer's Lone Star Memories and Bulgari Black intensely it's no surprise I can't stomach this one either. The other notes in this are entirely irrelevant, if you don't have a huge love affair with excessively sooty smoky birch tar - and I cannot stand the stuff except as an accent in more complex leather compositions, such as the far superior Knize Ten. Extremism for its own sake, recommended for leather-clad demons from the eighth circle of hell (where those dwell who do violence to others and themselves).
This is by far the smokiest perfume I have ever tried. In the beginning there is some complexity, some earthy patchouli and something brisk, but most of all there is a lot of soft, velvety smoke with some vanilla lingering in the background.
I really like Patchouli 24 during the first hours, the smoke note is darker, blacker and still much softer than any other smoke note I have experienced. But after being surrounded (yes, this has a lot of sillage!) by smoke in 4-5 and 6 hours it tend to be a little to much. I start to think that I smell like I have been left in front of a giant bonfire for hours and hours...
So even if it is one of the most beautiful smoke fragrances I´ve encountered, it become much to monothone and linear after a while. The smoke still lingers on me the morning after.
Stll I recommend it, a really fierce and loud fragrance, you will be noticed when you wear this! Mysterious, blackened and smoth...
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