An exceptional fragrance. Simple as that. An Original Classic (AOC! Appellation d’Origine Controlée, the quality label for the finest French wines, totally appropriate here!). The first and still the best of the whole Lolita Lempicka-fragrances range. Of course this is not sugared water. It is not a flower shop fragrance. Nor an orchard frag. It is not a safe generic run of the mill fruit juice fragrance. I'm talking about the original, vintage EDP here. If there are reformulations, please share your experiences. But this is ‘da heavy shit’ alright. Dense, radiates a strong aura around you, probably banned in ‘perfume sensitive area’s in the USA’. The stuff your grandma likes. And me, in his 30’s. And you, if you like the intricate classics. A totally old lady frag, unashamedly so and I like it! Not for ‘Water’ , ‘Eau’ or ‘Aqua’ fans: take notice. This is not geared at your market segment. And this grannie could give all the watered down 'body mists', 'sheer This' and 'Light That' plus celeb frags a serious run for their cheap money. And that on a rollator, girlies!
Seriously, people who appreciate original creative intricate 'old school' fragrances like Chanel 5, Opium, Organza, Dune, Le Baiser du Dragon, Hypnotic Poison... and there is no age label attachted to this. Women from 18 till 98 can wear this like a princess ans smell like a queen. Thse women from 18 to 98 will lap this one up. You get something creative, of high quality and not interchangeable. If you want smell like every Fantasy-Muffy in your dorm or in your class, simply don't buy this. It is too 'perfum-y' and too 'old lady' and 'too granny' and too 'high quality'. It is no cheap drugstore nor celeb scent. There are litle flowers in it, even lesser fruit. No kiwi, no syrupy sweet 'white chocolate', passionfrui', no guava, no mango, no unsmellable gimmicks like 'bamboo' or the pink colored 'pitahaya', no rasperbries, no peaches and no strawberies. And no cotton candy. So litte fruit a and the unsweetend version of vanilla in it. So no vanilla syrup that you pour over your ice cream in the Dairy Qyeen.
Lolita Lempicka, the first fragrance, is definitely in the same class as 'Opium', ''Baiser', 'Dune', 'Coco'... and thus a must try for people who like a dense, intricate, complex but gorgeous and opulent 'perfume-y' perfume. The only reason why this fragrance is less known than its more reputed sisters and has not the iconic status to these others is that the Lempicka house has not as much money to spend on ads, clips and other money eating frillies where you, the customer ultimately, pay for in the shop like the big houses of Chanel, Dior, YSL... And let's not talk about Coty, the biggest producer of celeb scents who churns them out like hell and where the ad budget for every celeb scent is gigantic compared to the budget for the nose to create a good, original fragrance.
Lolita Lempicka is the pseudonym of Josiane Maryse Pividal (born Bordeaux, 1954), a French fashion designer. The pseudonym is meant to be an homage to the novelist Vladimir Nabokov and the Art Deco painter Tamara de Lempicka, combining the nickname of the title character of the former's Lolita with the surname of the latter.. The House of Lempicka has always stayed independent, works eco-friendly and the key words of the house that also makes fashionis ‘chic and bohemian, joyful and evanescent young woman’. The Lempicka perfume brand always puts the emphasis on the fragrance. No Nicole Kidman, Juliette Binoche or other high paid actresses or supermodels to push the Lempicka's. The Lolita-house has a strict code that it is the fragrance that counts. And it prefers to spend its money on paying for things that matter. Like the nose who makes a fragrance.
You know who made this gem? It shouldn't come as a surprise: the best female nose post Sophia Grojsman: the formidable Annick Menardo! Who has a track record that starts to exceed that of the legendary Grojsman. Menardo made: Bulgari's Black, Dior's Hypnotic Poison, Boucheron’s great Jaipur for men, Guerlain’s great but too expensive Bois d 'Armenie, the very underrated YSL 'Body Kouros, better than the original Kouros and that is saying something... I mean Menardo means fragrance business in the sense of marrying creativity with wearability. Like she fused 'burnt rubber' with vanilla in Bulgari’s Black, almonds with coconut plum and allspice for Hypnotic Poison and cinnamon with lemon and lime in Jaïpur Homme, here she builds an extraordinary and genius fragrance around the fickle an unforgiving-if-you-get-it-wrong fragrance notes 'anise' and ‘licorice’. So NO vanilla, NO sugar, NO fruit, NO flowerbomb-orgasm.
Let’s take a closer look at the -I must admit- highly original fragrance pyramid that clearly let you see that this is the 'mother' of the most popular fragrance in 2011 in a close tie with Chanel nr 5, ‘Hypnotic Poison’.
Top: Violet, pineapple (!) mahogany (!!), ivy (!), star anise (!!!!), lemon,
Middle: Iris, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, amaryllis (!), licorice(!!)
Base: Tonka bean, almond, vanilla, vetiver, heliotrope, musk, tobacco (!), praline (!!)
Nose Annick Menardo who invented the high quality blockbuster' Hypnotic Poison' in 1998, first made this that was launched in 1997 and is still going strong, but not as strong as HP, although this is a more intricate version of Dior’s Hypnotic Poison, IMHO.. Later she streamlined it to the blockbuster ‘Hypnotic Poison’. You could say that HP is a more safe, more simple version of the first Lolita Lempicka. And even more than HP, we have here a great, original, creative collection of outstanding but little used fragrance notes: deep woody mahogany, sparkly fresh pineapple, ivy, star anise, amaryllis, licorice, praline. As you can see on this extraordinary collection or original fragnrace notes, Lolita Lempicka is much much more than that ‘frag with anise’.
First some short info about the original, very little used fragrance notes. You’ll never find these in a celeb scent and a cheap fruity floral. And so for me While Chanel 5 remains untouchable in heaven, Opium and Coco and Le Baiser du Dragon and also Lolita Lempicka are just a story below. Not in the presence of God, but in the presence of his son, Jesus Christ. Which is not so bad. I make the analogy, if I may as a man, with French lingerie. Chanel 5 is a genuine balconette bra. Opium is a push up bra, le Baiser du Dragon is a strapless bra and Lolita Lempicka is a triangle bra. Do you catch my drift?
Mahogany is a tropical hardwood. The fragrance is very recognizable. A deep, rich, creamy, opulent, dark-chocolaty, velvety wood fragrance. Together with cedar IMHO the most rich and aromatic and deeply satisfying 'wood' note. Those who have mahogany furniture in the house, know what I mean. This is a killer woody note. The King of Woody notes. Then: ivy! Powerful green, peppery, spicy, more sharp than labdanum but less sharp than bergamot-lemon. Then the two 'signature fragrance notes' of Lolita Lempicka: star anise and licorice. They are Siamese Twins. Only licorice is a bit more heavy. Star anise is the taste of the national aperitif in France. And is used in Chinese cuisine and a part of the famous 'five spices mix. Together with cinnamon, Szechuan pepper, cloves and ground fennel seeds. It is an instant recognizable and quite dominant smell. Sweet, soft spicy, candy-ish, a tad bitter-ish... In herbal medicine star anise has been used for ages against sleeplessness, digestion problems... It was given to mothers who just gave birth and nursed breast fed their baby to soothe the infant and let it sleep peacefully because of the effects of the anise in breast milk. And to strengthen the mother. Anise ins known to 'build up' the quality of the blood and purify it from impurities. Then licorice. More heavy and less sweet than anise. More smoky, resinous, 'dark' (literally and figuratively'. Totally one of its kind. Together with its Siamese sister anise, licorice forms one powerful axis of fragrance power. Not the 'Axis of Evil' but the 'First Axis of Fragrance Bliss': woody, smoky, resinous. Of course anise-licorice, that killer of a fragrance duo, must used in the right dose: sparingly.
Then: the little known flower amaryllis, also known as as 'The Naked Lady' among amateur botanists. ‘The Naked Lady’ has a very sweet and at the same time 'green', 'fatty-grassy-earthy' smell. Very strong, slightly animalistic, indolic, intoxicating. Amaryllis is of the same botanical family as the famed narcotic and poisonous ‘Belladonna’, also known as 'deadly nightshade' that contains alkaloids, the base of heroin and codeine and also the toxins include scopolamine and hyoscyamine which cause a bizarre delirium and hallucinations. But it is not found in amaryllis, nor in Lolita. But when you smell Lolita L. on a beautiful, sexy and elegant woman, as a man you will no doubt start to hallucinate blissfully!
Anyway, the amaryllis together with the jasmine, the lily of the valley and the iris, it forms a 'Second Axis of Fragrance Bliss': flowery-indolic. And then nose Menardo serves us praline which is a mix of caramel ('burnt sugar') and roasted hazelnuts. So: sweet, smoky and nutty. Of course that goes heavenly together with the trademark Menardo note 'almond' and the tonka bean. Together they form the 'Third Axis of Fragrance Bliss': nutty-sweet. But Menardo is not done. She goes on full speed ahead. With the pineapple and lemon in the top we get a totally opposite 'Fourth Axis of Fragrance Bliss': fresh-fruity. Further and deeper we go with the mahogany in the top and tobacco in the base which are born for each other and form the fragrantic and aromatic 'Fifth Axis of Fragrance Bliss': smoky-woody. And the final ‘Sixth Axis of Fragrance Bliss’ which is formed by the vetiver in the base and vetiver in the middle, double dose of vibrant vetiver: fresh-effervescent. That Sixth axis holds 'fat' crreamy' dominant notes like star anise, locrice, mahogany, amaryllis, praline, tonka bean, almond... in check and lifts their potentially too heavy 'load' up. Vetiver lightens potntially too heavy mixes of dense notes up to just the right rays of magical fragrance sunshine. So ‘Lolita Lempicka’ for me is the fragrance of the ‘Six Axes of Fragrance Bliss’. ‘The Six’ as in ‘The Five’, Chanle nr 5 which is of the same original and high quality.
Look at that base: totally nuts! Almonds, praline (hazelnuts) and tonka bean. The 'Third Axis of Fragrance Bliss' rules! Stroke of original fragrance genius. Nuts, nuts, nuts in the base. That deeply nutty base is naturally fortified by the vanilla and the musk. The rich heliotrope that smells according to most like a vanilla-flower-cherry-baby powder and yes, almonds, gives another boost to the nuttiness. Only the vetiver tones the nuts down.And the tobacco sides with the mahonay in the top to give a woody-smky touch. But the base is almost totally nuts. So the middle and top will have to give some much needed balance here!
The middle alone gives already a very strong counterbalance with the indolic-flowery 'Second Axis' and the formidable star anise-licorice 'First Axis'. These two give the strong nutty base a run for their money and make a great pairing on their own. But there is more, much more. There comes another blow to the threatening ‘too nutty’ dominance and yet another move towards blissful balance with the ‘Sixth Axis’: the fresh-effervescent vetiver axis which breaksthe till now too heavy atmosphere and composition a tad down. And then we have the top. Watch out, here comes the cavalry of the flowery-fresh ‘Fourth Axis’! Pineapple and lemon. And further green power chips away at the nutty foundations with the sharp green note of ivy. At this stage the power of the fragrance-balance goes without hesitation from nutty to 'fatty green'. But there comes the 'Fifth Axis' to the rescue: mahogany and his good pal in the base, tobacco. The smoky-woody dual force taht glues everything together. Those two restore the balance between nutty and green-woody-floral-anise-fresh-smoky. The pieces of this intricate fragrance puzzle by the intervention of the mahogany and tobacco fall totally in place and bring everything together in this exceptionally smooth, rounded, original and wearable fragrance. A more complex and intricate 'Hypnotic Poison'. More difficult to pull off than the uncomplicated crowd pleaser and blockbuster 'Hypnotic Poison', but a maginifcent scent that the House of Lempicka used to churn out endless variations like 'Fleur Defendu' and their ilk. Bad flankers, if you ask me. But the first Lolita Lempicka is still the best, still in production an still going strong. It is a timeless masterpiece. Nothing beats the original, except maybe in Dior's 'Hypnotic Poison' and 'Poison'. But that's another story.
So all these six axes grind into and against each other tho help create a true fragrance masterpiece. No sharp contrasting friction between these six 'Axes of Fragrance Bliss' and their respective notes. The separate notes ouside the six 'Axes' work as oil to make this top notch fragranace machine work like a charm and hum away blissfully: violet, ivy, vanilla, heliotrope, musk. The sillage of this first Lolita Lempicka is fabulous, the longevity very strong, the potentionally fickle fragrance balanced to stable perfection which is a necessity here and and this colorfol fragrance note collection is mixed without any glitch. So: Fragrance Bliss and Nose Happiness! Yay!
‘Lolita Lempicka’ is everything you heard about it. And more. It is a more intricate version of ‘Hypnotic Poison’. Less nutty, more anise-like and with a stronger green and floral and indolic/animalistic aspect than HP. So those who find Hypnotic Poison too sweet and too cloying, can try ‘Lolita Lempicka’, the first fragrance. It is guaranteed: when you smell this lesser known fragrance than Dior’s HP, you’ll go totally nuts! Couldn’t resist this lame joke. But remember: this fragrance is 'A True Classic'. And totally deservedly too! Try it and then you’ll buy it. Another notch in Annick Menardo’s impressive belt! Test it. Maybe a new fragrance ‘coup de foudre’, ‘a fragrance love affair’ is around the corner. She, who doesn’t try, stays a virgin forever.
Apr
05
2012