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This first unisex perfume from this fragrant house belongs to the collection “Les Exclusifs”. Patchouli from India and Java is used at the heart of this composition, which opens with violet leaf and ends with vanilla, citruses, white musk and amber.
It is available as 100 ml EDP:
Top Notes
Middle Notes
Base Notes
This is a fine, quality juice that, if it strikes you right, you will enjoy. IMHO it's not particularly distinctive. My gut says that if M. Micallef wasn't trying to build a unisex scent, this might have been more interesting. The patchouli is pleasant at the outset, but it feels 'restrained' - like it's trying to be very polite. The drydown seems to be primarily the ambergris, with a tiny hint (maybe) of vanilla. Again - nice, but nothing particularly distinctive. IME, sillage was okay at the start but quickly waned (2:5). Longevity has been pretty good (3:5).
I have to believe that if a perfumer is going to put another patchouli fragrance on the market, they better have a novel take on it.
Consider Organza Indecence, which pairs it with cinnamon and plum (sensuous and warm); Il Profvmuo's Patchouli Noir, which adds a mint top note (unexpected and refreshing); and my beloved Isvaraya which pairs it with jasmine and plum (simply glorious).
This starts off with violet leaf, which doesn't really pop here. Violet is best left as a basenote, and i would have liked to see that citrus in the opening instead.
This isn't a bad fragrance, it's just not a novel fragrance. It also has short longevity and the patchouli tends to fade faster than I would like.
If this scent were an American Idol contestant, it would be voted off early and forgotten about, i'm sorry to say.
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