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MDCI Parfums present a new fragrance in 2011 under the name La Belle Helene. Bertrand Duchaufour was inspired by Belle Hellene , the traditional French dessert of pears. He only kept the pear, without all the excessively sweet and gourmand notes. The perfume contains fresh pear, osmanthus flowers and oriental notes, but it belongs to the category of chypre.
Top notes: pear, aldehydes, tangerine and lime. Heart: rose essence, osmanthus, ylang-ylang, orris butter, Mirabelle plum and hawthorn. Base: myrrh, vetiver, patchouli, cedar, oak moss, white musk, sandalwood and licorice wood.
Available as 60 ml EDP.
Top Notes
Middle Notes
Base Notes
Very much like in Traversee du Bosphore, Duchaufour has proven once again that he can be a master of olfactory subtlety. I don’t find the two fragrances similar otherwise, not in the way they smell at any rate. In terms of notes, especially because of the cedar and the plum nuance, I actually found La Belle Helene to be the younger, softer sister of Serge Lutens Feminite du Bois.
La Belle Helene opens, as promised, with the fruity note of pear. The pear is not juicy, however; it even feels dry, more like the delicate smell of a winter pear. In fact, everything about this scent seems tastefully understated. The cedar is understated, and the white musk is gentle in the dry-down. I look at the array of notes, and it is difficult to identify them, especially the patchouli (don’t let the patchouli note scare you off if you are not a patchouli lover).
I was hoping for more osmanthus, but if it is here, it doesn’t stand out. The base is superbly blended and, given the ambitious list of notes, surprisingly mellow. I can detect a delicious plum note in it.
This is a reflective fragrance, which feels very modern. It behaves surprisingly well in the hot, humid summers here, and it lasts for a whole day on me! Initially, I called it ”underwhelming,” but I have learned to appreciate the way it manages to be subtle and bright, fruity and woody at the same time.
Nice! After a few minutes there is a more earthy smell. very fruity! But very expensive; that is the reason I won't buy it.
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