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Boxeuses is a new fragrance from Serge Lutens, available on the market from September 2010. It features woody and leather notes with gourmand accents including plum and licorice. Available in 75 ml bottles. The nose behind this fragrance is Christopher Sheldrake.
I fell in love with Daim Blond until the musc so could this be a good alternative? I have to say im a little scared of plum due to its use in Mon Parfum Cheri by Annick goutal which was so sickly! Any advice?
Bought this at the Palais Royale. It def. has the typical "Serge Lutens" perfume smell. It is a very subtle, very light scent. Very much a "skin scent", the kind you wear when you want people to come in close. I don't like the Flacon de Table though, I am going to transfer it to an atomizer.
Boxeuses smells like plum with a touch of leather on a woody base.I expected leather to be more pronounced instead of it I get a huge doze of plum which I don't like.Generally I dislike plums. I prefer other type of leather,stronger, more dynamic like Cuir Maresque. More fruit than leather.Not my type.Lasting power was weaker comparing to other Lutens scents. Pass it.
Woody leather with an accord of plum which gives it a little sweetness. I love leather fragrances and this is the first perfume I like licorice note used in it. The fragrance is rather smooth than sharp. I've tested it in autumn and it "sounds" perfect on my skin when it rains.
When this first came out one of my fragrant friends commented positively on it, and its been on my radar ever since.
But I have to say, if you aren't a gourmand lover the opening is frightful. But yet... there exists this woody, smoky anchor that makes you think hmm. I put this on and forgot about it, having got caught up making dinner for myself and four parrots. Out of nowhere I was hit by this lovely, fruity-woodsy accord and did a double take.
This gourmand turns into something rich and exciting. When worn on the décolleté (heat rises), it just soars. I am no fan of licorice and I"ll tolerate leather, but here both are done with a very chic hand.
In perusing the reviews below I suspect something is happening worth calling out. I know of myself that my chemistry amplifies greens and woodies, and thus, Boxeuses wears smoky and woody on me. I tend to make rank any and all sweet notes, and since those are largely missing here I think that's why it works. This may be the key to how well you'll enjoy it yourself.
Could have been called Daim Blond 2 or soft Daim Blond. Not that Boxeuses has less "body" but it feels more airy and less wintery than Daim Blond. Both have that fruity/leather theme: DB with apricot and B with plum. DB has more spice going on and is creamier. I find B to be more blended than DB, but it's just those contrasts in DB that make it so interesting.
Very good, if Daim Blond hadn't so successfully walked that path before.
It's not the first time Serge Lutens revisits past themes, let's not forget he opened his Palais Royal store with 4 variations on Féminité du Bois. There are many sister fragrances in the line: Arabie/El Attarine, Iris Silver Mist/Bas de Soie, Fleurs d'Oranger/Fleurs de Citronier... Often giving the choice between a brighter or darker version.
Full out leather and plum. Not a sweet leather smell, but a leather smell like that of an old chair. Very spicy too. Prefer other SL scents.
I truly wanted to love Boxeuses, and the notes are typically good ones, but unfortunately it was a dud. Leather and plum, two of my favorite notes, are utterly absent on my skin. In trying to decipher what exactly was the screaming ashy-sour-peppery-sagey-caraway-but-not note, I checked other reviews online and many remarked smelling labdanum. Looks like I found a new doom note as this resin utterly dominates Boxeuses and pummels the other notes into oblivion even throughout the long dry down. I smell like someone doused in Axe cooking curry. *sigh* Glad I was patient and only bought a decant rather than going through the trouble of trying to obtain this Europe-only blend.
At first, Boxeuses smells surprisingly bland, but after a few minutes the scent starts to develop, taking on an odd, slightly spicy, iris note. It’s fruity, powdery, a little metallic, and a little doughy. To me, this first stage it isn’t evocative of leather, but rather orris, anise, ionones, and fruits.
It takes at least a half hour for the sillage to develop, but when it does, it’s sharp and “perfumey” in the sense of many old-fashioned compositions. At this point the iris/leather, spice, and fruit are gone, and it smells like a generic version of a vintage perfume. The transformation that occurs over the course of a few hours is nothing short of amazing, but I'm not all that impressed by either phase. I’m left scratching my head about this one, wondering why it gets so many rave reviews.
Just got my generous sample from ...The Perfumed Court
Been wanting to try this fragrance since
an amazing review given by "PERFUME SHRINE"....
She wrote ...
"Boxeuses goes straight for the jugular, playing on the familiar, original codes of the Lutensian universe: violet-tinged woods, plummy fruits, somptuous spices..."
So here are my initial impressions...
I get alot of initial WOOD notes and Leather notes..
but its pretty linear....and rather quiet
Wears pretty close to the skin...
Incensy and ...."Powdery"
which I read somewhere it's going to be a return Fragrance Trend for 2011.
There's a piquant touch to it
perhaps its the Licorice....
The much ballyhooed and talked about fruity Plum notes showed up very subtle and much later
as the fragrance adapted to my skin.
Shame!....I really expected much more EXOTICISM!
"Perfume Shrine" called it...A Love-Child of a
Cuir de Russie type and Rochas Femme.
I frown a bit to comparing this fragrance to
the standard.. of CUIR Fragrances
like CUIR de RUSSIE and TABAC BLOND...
Believe me ....I have converted with Religious Fervor to the Fragrance CULT that is SERGE LUTENS...
sooo it's almost HERESY to say .....
"Why settle for "Tributes" or Vague Copies ..
when you can afford the real deal."
This not a Lutens favorite and I won't regret it........
Too much syrup this time! After ordering it blind I was dissapointed . Expected much more leather than plum confiture. For me it is quit far from Cuir de Russie and Femme and much close, even very close to Aziyade from Parfum D'Empire-the Turkish Bazar which I prefer to Boxeuse
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