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L`orpheline Serge Lutens for women and men

L`orpheline Serge Lutens for women and men
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Total people voted: 270
female 25- 25+
male 25- 25+

I have it: 153 I had it: 30 I want it: 204 My signature: 4

main accords
balsamic
musky
smoky
warm spicy
woody
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1. Yet another girl!
Yes, if you believe that she is the abandoned part of me. Child, I have cut the world in two. On the one hand, a girl, The Vanquished – not the loser! - and more precisely, that which germinated in her and which in myself, I raised; and on the other, a boy, The Victor. For a child, the world comes down to three people: himself, his mother and his father. Without everyone making such a clear-cut choice as mine, each one will be dependent on it throughout his life.

2. Did your choice present itself as the mother?
Not the mother, her wound; I bore it. It is undeniably an identification. As for each and every one of us, I owe my life to chance. The famous throw of the dice appears exemplary to me – it is a sacred number – it is the one which leads us there where we should have been born or not to have been. I shall not recall the significant episodes of my destiny but, between what was and what I felt, the difference was greater. However, the child is the clairvoyant: he foresees. Since I accorded all the qualities of the feminine to the wound, she named me.

3. From now on, should we understand that the masculine was denied in you?
From what to my eyes was officially required: the army, authority, power, order, moralism, yes. I was at war with the Male: Maleficence. It can be expected that from this moment, I invent a woman and bring us up to date, it is the baptism of blood.

4. Coming back to the orphan girl. Is this you?
No, originally it was a virgin territory, it attracted me but I didn’t recognise myself there; this territory which I denied was that of men. My mother, she was the wrath and I, her son, its revenge.

5. And the father, where is he?
The father is the declared enemy. I was hatred on Earth, on Father. Of the mother I was the figurehead, and of the father the assassin. The wound did not heal. I could blind myself but I could see: the father was immortal. From him I keep the feminine which he betrayed.

6. How did you recover the road to perfume in this labyrinth?
It is the memory, forgiveness and like this, what we have today, it was able to survive: From the dust. It is not only in the feminine but it also has no plural. It is the wake of my life, that which remains when all has disappeared. It is the invisible which, veil after veil, there where it is forgotten, fades into grey.

Serge Lutens

L`orpheline was launched in 2014.

Perfume rating: 3.77 out of 5 with 270 votes.

Fragrance Notes

Incense Musk

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poor 4
 
weak 4
 
moderate 16
 
long lasting 34
 
very long lasting 11
 

Sillage

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soft 13
 
moderate 39
 
heavy 10
 
enormous 15
 

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L`orpheline Fragrance Reviews

shushkin
shushkin

Perhaps an interesting fragrance if you like hanging around wooden coffins. Musk and incense equal coffins. I guess there is logic there. It unfortunately transported me back to the shores of the Ganges and the burning ghats. I don't intend to hang around again whilst a body flickers on a pyre!
That creepy musky sweetness combined with the smells associated with an intensely burning fire. It would be the perfect scent for Morticia or Wednesday. Not a big sillage (thank goodness) but it hangs around forever. A bit like those smells on the ghats!

Jul
14
2016
CaSentBeau
CaSentBeau

L'Orpheline puzzles me, plays hide and seek with my senses. She is mysterious, complex, evolving, but at the same time minimalistic and very restrained. L'Orpheline settles into a an earthy, woody, musky skin scent once the incense has lost its intensity and has been transformed to ashes. I imagine the inside of an empty coffin. Some find L'Orpheline comforting, but to me she is more creepy than anything else. I have enjoyed my sample of L'Orpheline very much, have tested it many times, but this is not a fragrance that I would add to my wardrobe.

Apr
05
2016
Pianomelody
Pianomelody

Night starts,transparent and a little pungent.. is a perfume with much pain,evokes a painful past but as "off" from this fire. I like the incense notes in the background,as if it were the smoke left by a distant past now only ashes... now there's Orpheline. It 'a rebirth, very beautiful and evocative fragrance, definitely among the best of Serge Lutens. Mysterious, solitaire with a sweet background. I love it, it gives me strength and serenity. Beautiful! The sillage is normal,the longevity lasts long on me... more suitable for cold autumn days.

Sillage: 7./10
Longevity: 8./10
Scent: 8.5/10

Overall: 8.5/10

Mar
23
2016
quiquose
quiquose

A gentle, sweet and balmy scent - barely a musk but a smooth one with some woody notes in there as well. I love this Serge Lutens because it doesn't knock you down and isn't strange just for the sake of being strange, it's just a great scent. Perfect for spring weather, and maybe a bit better for men because it's somewhat simple and straightforward. This could be worn everyday. Very classy and with just enough of a smokiness that it's just a tiny bit unpredictable. Drydown is great, it is gentle but it lasts a long time.

Mar
15
2016
mmmmgood
mmmmgood

first thing I thought, first time smelling it, was how much it reminded me of a few Escentric Molecules scents, because the way they evolve, depends a LOT on how they jive with your skin chemistry.

I know one other person who has this, and on him it smells completely different.

this is VERY hip and dark..alluring...magical, and simple. A keeper if you have to have something that no one else has. Longevity, is on point, bordering on two digits. and the sillage is noticeable, but sits pretty close to the skin, which I dont mind at all.

Mar
11
2016
shiva-woman
shiva-woman

I really didn't like L'Orpheline on my skin. It smelled a bit cloying and sweet.I could smell the incense but the musk was amplified, and it also had a more "common" scent than his other releases. But, it stayed with me, and it did morph and get better over time. After a few more attempts I realized it did not suit me--but it did suit my fiance'. When I wore it, it reminded me mentally of him. I spritzed him one day--and lovely. On him it is more incense with a light musk--the musk definitely comes through but it is not animalic but soft, fresh, sweet with the incense tendrils wrapping it. And on his skin it smells novel and different from other fragrances; it really becomes him and makes him stand out, but it won't clear an office--just gently wafts around him, occasionally making one think, "What's that lovely scent..."?, makes me want to get closer. For such simple notes listed, it is more complex. I get myrh, possibly a pinch of vetiver, a hint of frankinsense, even a whiff of clove and pepper. Call me crazy, but Serge Noire smells similar. Test them on clothing. Wait 5 minutes. SN is more woodsy/amber. LO is more ethereal, lighter.

Jan
20
2016
ali1970
ali1970

Master piece, it is not iso it is magic of SL perfume.
Sometime Musk or old Book smell or what so ever finally don't wait buy it use it.
You'll stay imagination about this perfume with complement from your partner

Jan
09
2016
lilred
lilred

A smokey fragrance with soft hints of incense and something fresh which I cannot give words to.

It is a perfume that makes me feel calm on a stressful day. It is not really a fragrance to put on when on a date or going out. But if you do, it is a fragrance you smell more close to your skin and not from some distance away, a very intimate perfume.

But it is a Serge Lutens: it reacts differently to each and every person. If you want to buy it, try it on your skin(!) and decide after a couple of hours. Let the smokey fragrance develop first on your skin.

Dec
13
2015
globus pallidus
globus pallidus

I get the sneezy woody aromachemicals. I get the "violets and mint", or rather an abstract cool floracy. I get the pale wisp of incense and the cleaner than clean musk. All of which is interesting, alluring even. But somehow, I feel no desire to wear it on myself. It feels like L'orpheline is lifeless in the most direct sense - not dead, but never have been alive, not animate at all. For a scent with a name and backstory like that, this seems strange, disturbing. You fail to feel compassion for this orphan, only alienation.

Nov
30
2015
NicheMaster29
NicheMaster29

What a beautiful smell. a very clean smell yet musky and smoothly done. I almost seem to detect like a clove like incense in the background. It kinda has that I've smelled this before thing going on, but it's really nice and I am not sure why more people are not hyping this up

Nov
28
2015
ahmedgabra
ahmedgabra

انك لذو حظ عظيم ايها السيد الانيق سيرج لوتنس ،،، ولكن هل الحظ وحده هو من يجعلك قادرا على استدعاء طفولتك واحلامها الضبابيه وصياغتها على شكل عطر؟
اعتقد انها موهبه عاليه ايضا ربما تعادل موهبه صانع عطورك كريستوفر شيلدراك والذى يبدو مطيعا للغايه وطيعا للاستجابه لرغباتك المحلقه.
طفوله مؤلمه وجروح غائره فى عمق روحك تركها الموت فى قلبك ،،فما كان منك سوي ان اردت احياء امك مره اخري واستعادتها من العالم الاخر وصنع هذا العطر لها وتسميته تسميه غريبه ربما اردت بها اختزال كل ذلك فى هذه المفرده L`orpheline
(( اليتيمه )) .
يحتفظ سيرج لوتنس بالهرم العطرى سرا ،،،سرا من جمله الاسرار التى يختزنها داخل روحه ويغلق خلفها الابواب بمزاليج لا تصدأ لانه يقشرها كل يوم كعاده العجائز الذين يقتاتون على الذكرى .
مايثير جنونى كيف لهذا العطر ان يصير بلسما للاحزان ،،،العطر عجيب الاثر به لمسه كريميه حالمه من اخشاب الصندل مع لمسات من البخور والورود فى وجود العنبر واعتقد ايضا انه يستقر على خلفيه مبهره من المسك ٠
(( بردا وسلاما ))
اول ما جال بخاطرى وانا استنشق نسمات هذا العطر ،،،ان تصير انامل هذه السيده بردا وسلاما لهذا اليتيم وجراحه التى سارعت بالالتئام بلمستها الرقيقه .
العطر فى استناده على لمسات البخور الشرقى والميره مع الخشاب الكريميه يشابه -الى حد كبير كما يدعى محللو العطور- تاثير خشب الصندل الميسورى شديد الندره ويعتبر خير بديل لمحبى عبق الاخشاب ،،فلا تتوقع ان تشم عطرا بخوريا مثل افينون او كاردينال فالعطر مختلف تماما بتاثيره الكريمى الباودى المسكى الرائق الشديد النعومه ،ربما يكون اقرب لاسلوب المينيماليزم الخاص بجيزا شون ربما فى اعتماده على المركبات الصناعيه كالالدهيدات والايزو سوبر e
على الرغم من ان ماء العطر داخل القنينه المميزه اعلى نقاءا وتركيزا وذلك يفسر سعره العالى عن باقى المنتجات الا اننى اراه عطر ذو فوحان وثبات متوسطين وقد يكون هذا مقصودا لهذه النوعبه الحالمه الحسيه.
يأتى العطر فى زجاجه ٥٠مل بما يقارب ال١٢٠ دولارا.

Nov
14
2015
flowers-in-the-springtime
flowers-in-the-springtime

Ok, so why all the rather negative reviews about this perfume?
In my humble opinion, I think that this fragrance is one of the nicest that Serge Lutens have created.
Admittedly, the story about this perfume is the biggest load of old claptrap I have ever read in my life, but setting all that aside, this is truly magnificent
It opens with a shower of pepper, spices and the sweetest of incense.
I was hooked at first spritz, but this lovely juice seems to change as it warms up on my body. It becomes stronger, sweeter, more incense focused and quite frankly, has spent the whole day wafting up under my nose, thoroughly delighting me. I could eat myself I smell so good!
Seriously, this has stayed with me all day from first thing this morning through to the evening and I can still smell it.
I would say that if you love heavy, spicy fragrances which lean towards the oriental, then you are going to love this.
A superb, rich scent which I feel will come into its own over Winter /Christmas season, although it's a pretty warm day today and it smells divine!
After wearing this for three days consecutively, I have just ordered a FB and I can't wait for it!

Sep
06
2015
msmonochrome
msmonochrome

This particular girl is feisty and a touch temperamental, what my grandmother would have called a "pepper pot".

Accordingly, L'orpheline's top is a sharp, spicy black pepper, and an almost antiseptic bit of pine, and the mildest whisper of dry lavender. On paper, a rather contrary combination, but on my skin, sharp and sudden as a lightning bolt, and not at all unpleasant.

Once she's had a chance to settle down a bit, her middle section is a sharp, resinous wood, and a very dry incense, smoke without fire or its associated warmth.

Only at the very end on this scent's very long lifespan (easily 12 plus hours on me) do I get a soft musk, which all of the hard edges in the earlier sections keep from drying down into too soft and safe a powder.

I love this fragrance, as it clearly communicates the idea of incense, without ever being obvious, linear or hyper literal about it.

Welcome home, little orphan. Welcome home.

Aug
30
2015
rostov14
rostov14

This scent conveys brilliantly Serge Lutens' esoteric thoughts about a time-space continuum and about us, human beings, -caught in between.
L'orpheline is a child of her Father and Mother, and hence, destined to bring together the opposites: Yang and Yin, Black and White, Life and Death within herself into Holy Trinity.
She is light fighting against darkness and despair; life in conflict with death.
She is constantly 'trapezing one paroxysm of anxiety to another, skipping always on the peaceful region in between'.
Her ups or downs depend on her angle of view.
What is above is below.
Her choice is neither right nor wrong.
Her free spirit never discriminates on life sources.
Why should she discriminate the afterlife?!
She encompasses all: air, space and solitude as the whole.
She discovers her own nature here, her 'blue and white climate'.
And she thinks she has found a way to master her sorrow with her reflection.

What an illusion!

Mystical perfume! Peppery, smokey, balsamic musk with its aura of detached airiness, unfulfilled quest for wholeness and hunger for love.
This silver siren reflects a perpetual inner energy; and therefore, she might come across as a little bit too agitating, relentless, monochrome.
But what a Beauty!
And with her 'glimmer of a smile' she whispers to you: ' You can be ambitious or happy, but never both!'
Take it or leave it...and then relax.
I love her abstractness, her dreaminess, her nostalgia. Love You, L'orpheline!

Jul
22
2015
DresdenDoll
DresdenDoll

This sample has sat around for a while, without much consideration. I have a couple incense fragrances so it didn't offer much to tempt me. But I was pleasantly surprised! It's significantly different from those I have, and also unlike any other incense scents I've tried.
L'orpheline opens quite masculine, deliciously so. I smell lavender right away, quickly followed by some kind of menthol-like scent. Angela at NST got a similar impression and was reminded of Gris Clair. However for me the menthol-like aspect of Gris Clair is very strong and off-putting whereas in L'orpheline it's kind of vague, and bleeds nicely into the incense, a cool presence.
The lavender too fades but what builds and builds is the musk. I say it's unlike many incense scents because it's also really a musk scent. I guess all the press was intended to give this scent a churchy feeling but it couldn't be more off-base - this is one seriously sexy incense. Wispy, cool and animalic, also very long-lasting L'orpheline packs more of a punch than you'd think. Also, the smooth incense really keeps a reign on the more bitter aspects of musk, so if like me, musk turns quite acidic on you, this may be one to try.
Better than I expected and one of the more unique Lutens. I'll happily use up my sample then we'll see.

Jul
17
2015
evacecilias
evacecilias

Tried this at Liberty's in London, it was an instant like.
Though couldn't remember the notes ( didn't ask either) I could immiediatly get the musk , kind of sweet and some incense too. It softens and I get a slight bergamot or lime toach , but not listed here.

Pepper is probably another not listed one and it's that note together with the sweet musk that made me think of Jil Sander JIL .which I love but mostly wear in winter actually. It is not a copycat , just a touch of the soft musky stage, reminding me of it.

The incense is not that smoky or harsch , more like a nuance giving it a darker feeling to it. Beeing a unisex and all, I would still call this more on the feminine side, due to it's fragile lightness. It is longlasting but need a respraying after half a day or so. No strong start or weak end. It is faboulos as it is...

And one day with lesser bottles in my drawers, I' ll definately will get a full bottle.Could easily turn into someones signature. As knowing some of S L other creations...this is not a typical one. Therefor I strongly advise you to try it!

Jul
11
2015
pravda48
pravda48

I get masculine-leaning tendrils of incense fumes with touches of white pepper and pine, after a brief, powerful burst of what smells like patch at the opening. Brings to mind no fancy imagery for me, just a soft but manly embrace.

It is much too masculine on me w/ any more than the tiniest dab of my sample, as I find many of Lutens' heavier scents to be.

P.S. Gasp! Figured it out: about an hour in, the drydown reminds me of Narciso Rodriguez's Amber Musc, super hard to find here in the US. Very similar on/to me!

Jun
17
2015
Arabian Knight
Arabian Knight

All of these people comparing "L'Orpheline" to smoky Gothic churches are undoubtedly letting their imaginations and a penchant for hyperbole get the better of them.

This doesn't smell like church pews, or incense. It smells like toothpaste and Parma Violet candy. Cold, sterile and synthetic. I was reminded of "Moon Dust" from the horrendous MiN New York line; it has a similar 'dentist surgery' vibe to it.

Yuck.

Apr
18
2015
AveParfum
AveParfum

More Iso-E-Super + ambroxan, yay! What a dull, artless, liquid snoozefest. A meal of bread and water is more exciting.

Apr
14
2015
Lovelolitalempicka
Lovelolitalempicka

I am not sure about this one - it's perfectly pleasant but has changed its impact on my psyche completely from yesterday to today. Yesterday I tried this in Harrods (London) on recommendation of my sister who was convinced I would love it. I'd been smelling and spraying different perfumes with a friend for 2 hours, but we had a break, came back, sniffed some coffee beans and as predicted I fell for this perfume immediately. It was like a combination of weird ("OMG, it smells like baby. Do I like the smell of baby? It smells of happy baby, freshly washed, sweet and gentle and creamy") and fizzy ("this is like Gucci Rush. Different, more gentle, but Gucci Rush, right?"). So I bought it. So this morning, no distraction, i have put it on a paper strip and I am trying to find out why it doesnt smell of Gucci Rush Baby anymore. Instead it smells like a perfectly fine, slightly soapy male aftershave. There is a bit of Incense, a tiny bit of smoky tar, but mostly it's that thing in musk that makes perfumes smell soft and soapy. And, occasionally, there's the Gucci Rush hint of fizzy cherry bomb, for a fleeting nanosecond, then I lose it again. It's a lovely smell, I am glad I own it and I will happily wear it. But it isn't what I thought I was buying yesterday. (I also bought Comme des Garcons Black, which, if you like smoky incense & catholic church, is where you find it. Like someone battering your face with a large wooden crucifix dipped in Frankincense oil.)

Apr
08
2015
lisa o
lisa o

I tested it and had a similary strong déjà-vu reaction like other reviewers. Mine was emotional and I knew it was recalling something from my past in the early 90ies.
Alfarom, glad I read what you wrote: Yes exactly, it has Helmut Langs bones. Oh, or more correctly: a Helmut Lang T-shirt on;-)
I feel drawn to it while knowing that I would never like it without this connotation.

Mar
27
2015
ramin1215
ramin1215

هر روز بعد از خوردن صبحانه که مثل همیشه سیب زمینی بود ، ساکت در کنار اجاق اتش می نشست و از قاب پنجره دنیای خارج رو تماشا میکرد ، این ششمین روز بود که مداوم باد در حال وزیدن بود و درختان دیگر تاب تحمل این همه بی رحمی را نداشتند ، ایا در روز هفتم نیز همچنان باد خواهد وزید؟
دختر با نگاهی ساکت و بسته با چشمانی تاریک و تار از پشت شیشه غبار آلود تنها صدای تنهایی ، سکوت و روز مرگی حاصل از زندگی خود را میطلبید ... صدای فریاد او را میشنود در این فضای وهم ناک و غم زده از پس رایحه سوختن کندر در این سراب آتشین تنها صدای خاکستری و غمناک او را میشنود : " مادر من ابله هستم "
و انتظار همچون باد بر پیکر دختر بی رحمانه زخم میزند ... انتظار انتظار انتظار ، جهان رو به تباهی است .....
در ابتدای رایحه این عطر رایحه ای تند ادویه ای که در ابتدا خنک بوده و حالتی نعناعی دارد شروع میشود که کمی شبیه ابتدای عطر L'Eau Froide می باشد ، ولی این رایحه خنک نعناعی به زودی خارج شده و حالت ادویه ای تندی بر عطر حاکم میشود ، رایحه ادویه ای نیز به زودی کم رنگ شده و حالتی چوبی پیدا میکند که رایحه ای ملایم و شیرین نیز در این بین احساس میشود ، در این مرحله رایحه ای چوبی به همراه کمی رایحه ظریف و جزیی شیرین با پس زمینه ی ادویه ای بر عطر حاکم است ولی بعد از این رایحه دودی کندر همچون سیل تمام این رایحه چوبی و ادویه ای را می پوشاند ، رایحه کندر در ابتدا بسیار تیز و نافذ است ولی در ادامه با افزایش حجم این سیل خروشان به صورتی تقریبا ثابت و یکنواخت احساس میشود ، کندر و حالت بخوری و دودی بر عطر غالب است ولی به همراه رایحه ادویه ای و کمی چوبی که توانسته انددر این حجم سیل کندر کمی خود نمایی کنند .
رایحه کلی عطر بخور کند غالب با پس زمینه ای ادویه ای چوبی با نسبت حدودی 50 درصد بخور 20 درصد ادویه و 30 درصد رایحه چوبی ملایم .
نکته : حالت خاکی هم خیلی کم در عطر مشهود است
نکته : بر اساس سایت ها نت های این عطر بخور و مشک می باشد ولی من برای لحظاتی جزیی رایحه ای شیرین و ملایم که شبیه مشک باشد استشمام نکردم . احتمالا مشک همان رایحه ملایم شیرین چوبی مانند خواهد بود .
فضای عطر : حالتی خاکستری ، وهم آلود ، گنگ و در انتظار با امیدی بسیار ظریف به آینده .
this perfume reminds me the turin horse by bela tarr

Mar
24
2015
deadidol
deadidol

I tried, but I just can’t reconcile this with Serge’s history; I don’t know where the company’s head's at anymore. This maps onto the L’Eau genealogy of air-conditioned minimalism. And like L’Eau, it’s perfectly fine as a barely-there scent, but it’s totally at odds with the Lutens legacy.

This is equal parts fizzy, balsamic, musty, camphorous, and peppery in the faintest ways imaginable. It’s transparent, but not in a glassy sense (as glass would be more substantial than this); it’s more like a sheet of vellum or fiber draped over skin. Ghostly incense and a barely-there benzoin form the bulk with an herbal tinge that’s not dissimilar to Kilian’s Vodka on the Rocks. There’s a faint sweetness that reminds me a little of Odeur 71, but that’s really it. You’d be hard-pressed to call it a perfume at all.

I love minimal aesthetics and I love light skin-scents as well, but I just cannot reconcile that the company that brought us El Attarine, Sarrasins, Chene, and so many other contemporary classics has put this out. It’s tantamount to handing Rothko a single crayon, or replacing Slayer’s guitars with flutes. I don’t dislike it, but I do dislike that it’s a Serge release.

Mar
19
2015
Mellyhelly
Mellyhelly

Ok, I have no problem with Iso-E-Super or Ambroxan. Most modern perfumes are packed with both. We also had it simply bottled and sold. Wow!
Now SL take it back again and fills it with incense, not the most real aromatic one, rather a black chalky type similar to what it is burned in modern Catholic churches on festive mass.
My problem with this perfume is that it smells incredibly sad. It brings out sadness, loneliness and abandon. A cold november funeral in a black/White old movie, but with less glamour.
I wish I could try it without reading the label, because the name is quite ugly.
I didn't know the whole backstory...
When I read it I was even more perplexed. SL here is selling his own windy mind in a pricey pack. Did we need that?
Well, I guess once you become rich you can do whatever you want.
Anyway, the Whole blend (perfume+story+name) smells to me like something that Lovely Sara in her dreadful grey dress would have worn.
The power of marketing.

Mar
16
2015
archivist
archivist

I have a love/dislike relationship with Serge Lutens perfumes; the only one I've ever felt "meh" about was Clair de Musc. I love incense perfumes, so I thought L'Orpheline would be right up my alley. I came really close to making a blind buy of it several times.

I'm glad I didn't. Maybe you have to put on a LOT of it to get all of the lyrical rhapsodies other reviewers are finding in it, but all I get is the Ghost of Aqua Velva Past. It literally smells like I was rubbing arms with someone wearing Aqua Velva, not like I actually put it on myself. I realize it's incense, but it doesn't signify as such, it just feels like a slightly abrasive old-school masculine. The drydown is more pleasant, but it very quiet (nose to arm quiet) and weird at the same time. Definitely taking this off my want list.

Mar
13
2015
Fragrantlife
Fragrantlife

Smells like an old Catholic church, with antique wood benches and faded incense whispers in the still and silent air. Then a faint suggestion of Central European cherry brandy (on the breath of the unctuous priest through the confessional lattice?)


This SL offering creeps me out.

Minimal projection and nothing avant-grade about it. It is entirely wearable -- and potentially pleasant -- for someone un-traumatised by childhood memories of oppressive churches.

PS to Serge: cut out the abysmal pseudo-Dadaist attempts at poetry.

Mar
10
2015
robot
robot

I tested it in store and whole day afterwards kept wondering where that pleasant scent was coming from because every time I brushed my hand through my hair, I could smell something very nice but a bit ungrounded, giving an illusion that it wasn't coming from my wrist but from some outside source.

It blended with my skin very smoothly, like a well known but long forgotten fragrance that you just can't figure out. I have that impression with a lot of Lutenses, they hint at something familiar but at the same time hard to pinpoint. That's exactly what L'orpheline did to me for the first time I've worn it. Later, I decided it was close to one lovely Indian incense that I liked to burn a few years ago. Very calming and cleansing the mind of redundant clutter. I love most incense based scents so L'orpheline was bound to make me happy but the amount of happiness I couldn't have foreseen.

Longevity was excellent, at least 8 to 10 hours after one spray. Sillage is the way I like it: I can smell it and those close to me can smell it too, but it's not a buldozzer of a fragrance that makes everyone in the vicinity of 5 meters aware of you.

I loved it and I want it. I'll probably update this review later, when I have more experience with the scent.

Mar
10
2015
Martin__
Martin__

Pure ISO E Super. 'Nuff said.

Feb
28
2015
Fizzy
Fizzy

Medicinal scent, like a toothpaste, strong, edgy and parfumey - doesn´t smell good for my nose at any stage.

Feb
10
2015
nebbe
nebbe

Tried this a few times, but just get toothpaste and woods :(

Sorry, Serge!!

Feb
06
2015
johngreenink
johngreenink

This is probably the quietest and most gentle of Lutens' creations - a mysteriously soft perfume that has aspects of wood, incense, very pale distant florals, balsamic notes, a bit aquatic, and just a hint of ozone or watery tones. I find this to be extremely light and transparent, having much in common with the l'eau scents.

I am really drawn to this when I want to wear perfume, but nothing too loud.

Contemplative, quiet, soft, mysterious, utterly unisex. A simple beauty.

Feb
06
2015
daithi
daithi

Another great perfume by Serge Lutens. "L'orpheline" is pure mystery. It's based around incense, with an aromatic and resinous quality quite close to patchouli. These dark notes are softened with powdery and musky undertones. Longevity and projection are excellent.

Jan
27
2015
Lacrimosa
Lacrimosa

❀ What I get from L'Orpheline when wearing it is ouzo candys' scent, if you are familiar with these caramel treats!
It's a concoction of clean, kinda creamy musc and soft-spiced insence.
More on the masculine side IMO, but easily wearable by women as well. Very unique!

Jan
23
2015
bhean_sidhe
bhean_sidhe

L'Orpheline is an understated beauty. She could be the love child of Serge Noire and L'eau Froide: muted spices meet cold incense on a bleak November morning. This little lady is reserved, sad and shy, but naughty and mischievous at the same time.

One of the most beautiful things about this fragrance is the musky drydown, which makes me think of the way my dad's skin smelled when he finished shaving in the morning and gave me a goodbye kiss before leaving for work. In a way it makes sense - the orphan misses her father, even though in the description of the fragrance he is put as "the enemy".

Jan
19
2015
Eloquaint
Eloquaint

Despite the thoroughly pretentious and self-indulgent prattlings that Mr. Lutens has seen fit to release with L'Orpheline, it is a pretty good perfume. It opens smelling resinous, incensy and balsamic, with notes of licorice and wood that are clean and bracing. It turns minty, but again, a clean and genuine mint, not a geranium-mint; and it has a green and peppery quality that make a nice balance to the deep musty sweetness of the incense.

Short-lived and not much sillage.

Dec
07
2014
Sugandaraja
Sugandaraja

It was easy to dismiss this one at first: we've been inundated with incense fragrances with abstract, woody drydowns, and this style seems very familiar from Amouage releases of the previous decade.

All that being said, this is excellently composed and very comforting. The top notes are mostly an olibanum note with some green, powdery, and aldehydic accents. The drydown warms up and becomes quite cozy, very synthetic, abstract, cleanly musky and woody with few definable notes. However, unlike many scents of this genre, the overall texture is very fine-grained: brutality of woody-ambers is no-where to be found, and it wears like a vintage powdery floral, without at all being one.

Try it - at least twice.

Nov
18
2014
scain54
scain54

Something very sad about this. I wanted to love it - but all I got was despair and adult diapers. Very reminiscent of forgotten grandpas in a nursing home.

Nov
14
2014
TakaBeata
TakaBeata

My new perfume :)
Is it fresh ? Yes
Is it clean ? Yes
Is it light ? No
Musk, vetiver,cardamon,patchouli..
Scent for woman and man. Very personal and elegant .
Now for fall and winter ,,, for summer ? I dont no :)

Nov
12
2014
ScarlettX
ScarlettX

That's an interesting one! It smells like sauna and home made kissel at the same time. Very weird, but that's how I sense it.
Quite masculine, but it's unisex, so no wonder there.
Smells very close to nature, like autumn in the countryside.

Nov
05
2014
genny17
genny17

Lutens might be telling a story with l' Orpheline, but in the end it is a scrubber for me!!
Lutens just isn't for me, the notes jump at me, not in a good way, the lavender smells dirty, like mixed with smelly earth or something..could be what an orphan girl would smell like..dirt, despair, nothing uplifting about that perfume.
Another creative olfactory interpretation. Very personal...not my cup of tea

Nov
03
2014
sherapop
sherapop

Initially L'orpheline seemed as though it was going to be a powdery woody perfume in the neighborhood of Le Labo Poudre d'Orient (of which I have nearly drained my second bottle...). However, this creation by Serge Lutens is much less sweet and has a powerful "woodish" (read: the dreaded omnisolvent, ambroxan + iso E super) base which kicks in after a couple of minutes.

Then, after a while, the scent starts to remind a lot of Bond no 9 Cooper Square--but minus the lavender and juniper, if that makes any sense (which it probably does not)! Or maybe this is closer to a toned-down (= possibly wearable) version of one of the disastrous Veni, Vidi, Vici monstrosities from Histoires de Parfum (a house which I otherwise esteem).

There is clearly more going on in L'Orpheline than Frankincense and musk. Labdanum seems to be implicated here as well, among other secret agents, and of course the not-so-secret omnisolvent... Does the elaborate backstory help? Not really.

Nov
03
2014
Scentmad
Scentmad

Don't be fooled by the very light colour of this perfume, it completely betrays the olfactory blast. I got a free sample from SL today and immediately tried it thinking it would be somewhere between "meh" and "yikes". As soon as I sprayed this on my skin I actually said out loud "Oh my god" and I mean that in a good way. It's absolutely gorgeous. My second comment was "RATS!" because my SL addiction is getting rather out of hand. A couple of hours later and my desire for this perfume has not diminished a jot, quite the opposite - which means raiding another piggy bank to get some.

It is sweet, balsamic, white musk erring on the side of a chypre it does remind me a little of Clinique's Aromatics Elixir (particularly the body cream).

I don't know where the name came from for this and I would say it really doesn't matter to my nose because I think this is absolutely divine, it is warm and spicy, but calmer than some of the other SL offerings, and I cannot stop sniffing my wrist - that's a bad sign for my bank balance.

Truly gorgeous.

Oct
17
2014
Guest_Colin Maillard
Guest_Colin Maillard

L'orpheline ("the little orphan") starts with a blast of concentrated Iso E Super providing its smell halfway industrial vapors, synthetic incense, balsamic cedar. Which reminds me, again, of dozens of other scents which already elaborated this in every possible way, from Comme des Garçons to Escentric Molecules. The only additions here seem to be a peppery note and something sour-greenish, but basically it's a gigantic cloud of grey fog, purely synthetic, cold and kind of discomforting like waiting in a parking lot outside a refinery in the middle of nowhere. And that's it. The house which provided us with masterpieces like Ambre Sultan, Borneo 1834, Muscs Koublai Khan, seems now happy with this kind of stuff (this, L'eau froide, Laine de verre and so on). A brand which is starting to look like a sad little orphan indeed – let's get this Orpheline as a testament.

4/10

Oct
11
2014
Arbre Amer
Arbre Amer

From the start it demonstrates all the hardcore traits of a dated masculine release, minty, clovey and piney. As far as testosterone goes, the start is up there with the likes of Drakkar Noir in my book. The incense reminds me of eau froide but sadly the unfortunate connotations with functional products that ruined the first for me also make an appearance here. This time I get a cross between mouthwash and vaporub (salicylates?). I get an impression of white floralness in the background but could be my wishful thinking…
Drydown is a bit one dimensional for my taste and again, an unfortunate connotation with fabric softener -but is this a hint of sandalwood and amber in the margins of musk I detect?
Now, for all the negative traits I am not ready to write l’orpheline off. I think perhaps it is not the kind of perfume one needs to stick his nose into and analyse to enjoy. It might simply work as a clean (and I mean squeaky clean) aura. Lasting power is very good -if a bit too good for my tastes.

The day after, I get a lingering patchouli skin scent which I find more agreeable than the almost barbaric opening.

Eau Froide, Laine de Verre and now l'Orpheline mark a departure from the SL style that the fans have come to love and expect. Not sure if this is a bad thing but so far I am not impressed.

Oct
07
2014
alfarom
alfarom

From the very first moment L'Orpheline touched my skin, a strong deja-vu hit my mind. It took me a while to pinpoint what generated it but then, click! This is basically the same sweetish woody-musky accord already played by the more successful Helmut Lang EDC but whereas the HL introduced lavender to suggest a barbershop kind of vibe, L'Orpheline opts for a sharpish woody-incense and takes the minimalistic-woody route.

I don't find it bad at all but it's definitely a bit uninspired especially given its pedigree. Doomed to oblivion in 3...2...1...

Edit December 2014: I still think this is nowhere close to deserve the Lutens' pedigree but it's so darned easy to wear and likable that it eventually won me over. Maybe it's just me that I can't seem to get enough of incense fragrances.

Rating: 7/10

Oct
07
2014
Marciu
Marciu

To me this smells like Iso E Super. This peppery and woody smell I won't confuse with anything else.

In the same time it has something in common with all the fragrances from L'Eau series: L'Eau, L'Eau Froide and Laine de Verre.

Longevity is decent, 5-6 hours. Sillage is poor.

Oct
06
2014
Sauerkraut
Sauerkraut

...very nice soft sweet woody and incensy opening...nothing sharp to my nose! After a couple of hours patchouli takes over smoothly and the dry down makes me think of Oud Immortel (without the limoncello)...!
Since I am a sucker for patchouli this one cannot go wrong for me...by far the nicest release of the last lustrum for this brand...!

Rating: 8/10

Oct
05
2014
miracleborgtech
miracleborgtech

Didn't expect much after reading the mixed reviews, but I put on L'orpheline yesterday morning and got on with the busyness of the day. It did make its' presence known with pleasing sillage throughout, and by 5 o'clock, not only could I still smell it, but this perfume had made me a total devotee. It has staying power and good sillage, which for something I like, is a huge blessing. BTW - I have tried other incense perfumes like Comme Des Garcons Incense Avignon, which I love, however it doesn't have the sillage or longevity of L'orpheline.

Incense is the predominant note by far . . . with a powdery cedar accord underneath. The clean incense smell - smokey and resinous is beautiful, and causes some to find it a more masculine scent. For me, it reminds me of the beauty and austerity of medieval chants during canonical hours. Completed the mood with my Ipod on CHANT by the Bendictine monks, and went out to enjoy a cool, fall day enhanced by the heavenly smell of classical incense.

Oct
05
2014
iranperfumer
iranperfumer

انسانی را که خود را برای دیگران مجزا می کند می شود در پس این رایحه او را حس و در عمق خاطرات خود به یادگار بسپاریم
همچون نوشته ای در تنه یک درخت قوی هیکل و با قدمت بسیار که توانسته در مسیر یک گروه اورا با فاصلهای دور نیز به رخ بکشاند. همانند یک درخت تنومند در یک دشت بسیار بزرگ چون مردی در یک مجلس مجلل با شکوه.

Sep
28
2014
Argenta
Argenta

I tested today my sample of Serge Lutens L`Orpheline. And I would say: a lovely scent with olibanum. I would wear it on xmastime for visiting the xmas-church or on cold winterdays, maybe in front of a fireplace. The longevity is the whole day and it helps me to calm down and relax..

Sep
28
2014
KateAnette
KateAnette

Got a sample of this, and expected the worst before testing, as there's quite a few negative reviews. I was pleasantly surprised. I don't get any metallic or weird smell from this. It's actually quite similar to Agent Provocateur L'Agent on my skin. Woody and smoky, just the right balance. Thumbs up from me, would be FB worthy if I didn't already have the AP.

Sep
24
2014
freakypirate
freakypirate

Very sharp opening, woody musk with a metallic vibe, ambroxan maybe? Cashmeran? I smell a hint of smoky incense, but mostly ink. The drydown smells musky, soft and sweet and a tiny bit sour, there's a hint of black pepper with a metallic pungent undertone.

Not one of my favorite Serge Lutens, I'm afraid. I'm not a fan of the metallic notes that are quite popular these days.

Longevity is about 8-9 hours, sillage is soft to moderate.

Sep
21
2014
Dinkum
Dinkum

I rather liked this one (sample). But, even though I got a few male scents in my perfume wardrobe, this one was not for me. Gifted our youngest son with it.

Sep
18
2014
kxnaiades
kxnaiades

Lutens does with two officially listed notes what Les Nez Let Me Play The Lion did with three notes. Incense, musk and wood shavings are what I smell from both, the wood more apparent in the dry down of the Les Nez, which also lasted longer than the Lutens on me (LN I could smell on my sleep shirt the next day but Lutens becomes a skin scent past 6 hours). Both are rather discreet scents, more "come closer and take another sniff". I think L'orpheline is more approachable in warmer weather, coming across as a cool and impersonal under air-conditioning, but warm and beguiling once out in the sun. Not my favourite of this house but holds its own amongst the other Lutens.

Sep
11
2014
SimplyOliver
SimplyOliver

I really wanted to like this one, and despite it being a daring creation, I can't see myself wearing this ever again. I had been trying this on paper and it was just a fine, smokey, woody scent. I did like it so far...

But on my skin, it was another story: I didn't get any incense nor musk, and instead, I found myself with a *pungent*, cloying pine wood, mixed with a overwhelming smell of old grandpa aftershave, and a fecal note comparable to castoreum.

I was about to pass away and tried to scrub it off 3 times during the day, without success, and people around me were literally suffocating (with only 2 sprays)...

Sillage is enormous, longevity is out of this world. But the scent to me and many others was a nightmare. Too bad, I was really enthusiastic about this new release, especially since I love musk (404 not found), incense (404 not found), and minimalistic compositions (OK, maybe). I don't know if my skin is playing tricks on me, but l'Orpheline failed my test big time.

Ps. This is so evil that I had to withdraw a particular shirt from use for a few weeks. I had been wearing it with l'Orpheline, and the remains of the fragrance were still projecting like hell after I had washed the shirt twice at 50°C, about two weeks into my little test... Update: a month, and it's still clearly there. Also, no JCE vibe to my nose. Except for the fact that it's minimalist, maybe.

Sep
07
2014
dkny27
dkny27

Very balsamic, musky, spicy incense... This is reminiscent of my grandfathers face after a shave. On me, this projects quite a bit and it leans towards a masculine vibe. There's something a bit powdery as well, but it is smooth, like the Choward's Violet gum..
Certainly a nice scent...Nostalgic even...

Sep
05
2014
LaPetite
LaPetite

I must just have been dreaming I was testing this scent. Because when I did I had a terrible experience of something very herbal and medicinal, and here are the notes displayed here : Musk and incense -_____-
What the O_o ??? Is it just me?

Sep
05
2014
woodlandwalk
woodlandwalk

(Thanks to @finanna for lovely perfume swap!)

A weird perfume. Devoid of comfort with its strange mineral hues.

It smells like burned soil and the scent that emantes from a heated oven after its been cleaned. There's also something mildly sulphurous

I can't get my head around all the Freudian meanderrings above but I think that if this perfume reflects the essence of Luten's childhood then I'd like to offer him a warm blanket and a cup of cocoa

Mind you, we know Sheldrake and Lutens can come up with the most cosy and grounded perfumes, such as Chergui, a warm daddy-hug of a perfume. Or Santal majuscule (a soothing hangover cure for jangled nerves I find!)

I'm never going to like L'Orpheline because it has one of those woody musks I don't like, it smells of synthetic incense, or electrified incense, weird, discomforting and obviously deliberately so.

It has a similar woody musk to Bruno Acampora's 'Musc' which I don't like. But L'Orpheline is far more incensey, and it has its odd metallic, burned hues. There's a decided bitterness which reminds me of certain patchoulis, dark and light, flinty

Interesting, but not one for bed-time!

Aug
29
2014
guest_
guest_

A weird perfume. Devoid of comfort with its strange mineral hues.

It smells like burned soil and the scent that emantes from a heated oven after its been cleaned. There's also something mildly sulphurous

I can't get my head around all the Freudian meanderrings above but I think that if this perfume reflects the essence of Luten's childhood then I'd like to offer him a warm blanket and a cup of cocoa

Mind you, we know Sheldrake and Lutens can come up with the most cosy and grounded perfumes, such as Chergui, a warm daddy-hug of a perfume. Or Santal majuscule (a soothing hangover cure for jangled nerves I find!)

I'm never going to like L'Orpheline because it has one of those woody musks I don't like, it smells of synthetic incense, or electrified incense, weird, discomforting and obviously deliberately so.

It has a similar woody musk to Bruno Acampora's 'Musc' which I don't like. But L'Orpheline is far more incensey, and it has its odd metallic, burned hues. There's a decided bitterness which reminds me of certain patchoulis, dark and light, flinty

Interesting, but not one for bed-time!

Aug
29
2014
edooardo
edooardo

This scent needs a hot hug to come out, to shine fully, to come to life. It screams for the father´s skin contact, it demands an intimate embrace.

Otherwise, either on paper or on a cold skin, it´s a completely different scent, it is transparent, holographic, ethereal, like Jean Claude Helena recent compositions.

Lutens does magic.
10/10

Aug
24
2014
oobunillaoo
oobunillaoo

L'Orpheline starts with a large hit of what i can only describe as holographic incense and clean musk. after about 20 minutes it shapeshifts in to something familiar, like smelling assorted men's colognes whilst sitting in the pews at sunday morning mass. my description of it doesn't really capture its clarity, it has a crystalline quality. Meama says in their review below that this smells like something JC Ellena would create and i entirely agree with that comparison. there is something transparent and even a bit fragile about L'Orpheline that i did not expect from a Lutens. i've not yet been able to smell the dirty or earthy facets of this perfume others have described so i'll be asking a man to try this on to see how it develops on male skin.

update: increased complexity on a man. on him, i finally sense the earthiness and cool humidity in L'Orpheline. all of the qualities mentioned above have amplified. i'm also noticing a soapy sandalwood, smoked out myrrh, and damp peppercorns.

L'Orpheline is an androgynous and delicate wallflower compared to most Lutens perfumes. it seems to last for quite a while, well over the 8 hour mark with only 2 slight spritzes. it doesn't project much, more of a skin scent after an hour or so, but i keep catching whiffs of it at unexpected moments.

Aug
22
2014
agentj
agentj

Update: I decided this deserved another try, so I wore it on a cold evening. It was better than the first try, and I didn't get the pine note, but it went straight to potpouri this time. If you are a child of the 70's and remember what the original sort of generic smelling potpouri was like, this is it. I'm sure it's good on the right person, but it's not for me.

Original review: I wish I could get what you all are getting, since I was really looking forward to this. Aside from the odd and pretentious sounding interview above in the description (is Serge just a tetch off his rocker?), this is just a weird scent. I love incense, I love musk, so Whattuuuup??? I don't get either of those which makes me sad, and this is how it plays out on me...

1. First spray and wrist sniff, piney and resinous, and it stays this way the first few minutes. If it stayed like this I wouldn't love it, but I wouldn't dislike it either.

2. After about 15 minutes, I get Claire Burke's potpouri. This is a distinct 1970's smell from my childhood, and while it brings fond memories, it's not something I want to smell like.

3. At 30 minutes I get more pine, pine, and pine.

4. At 45 minutes this turns extremely masculine and reminds me of my grandfather's Barbasol shaving cream.

Bummer. I haven't had much success with Lutens so far and was hoping this would be "the one".

Aug
18
2014
janjanjan
janjanjan

Cool, flinty incense and warm musk in a summersault tussle. This was made for me! Wonderful alone, if a smidgen low on longevity. Very successfully paired with a few of my other fragrances that I felt lacked a little grounding in the base (ex: Seductive by Boadicea the Victorious). But I made the mistake of sampling it a month before stateside release. Now my tester is empty and I can't get a full bottle yet, and I am freaking out!

Edit after wearing from the full bottle: No longevity issues anymore, in fact it's got great lasting power. Nose to arm there is a definite "dry dirt" undertone the first 30 minutes which I am loving. Not a damp, ripe dirt (a la Christopher Brosius), but cool and dry. The perfume does not develop or unfold, but undulates in and out. If you are not in love with the first impressions (as I am), you could find it lacking in development. But I am an introspective person and L'Orpheline holds me how I want to be held - fully, but without crushing my solitary spaces.

Aug
17
2014
knit_at_nite
knit_at_nite

Tested at Barneys in Scottsdale AZ 8/16/2014. L'Orpheline is deep smooth woody, very resinous, and musky- all without being too animalic. I get some cedar in the drydown. I really don't get incense/ smoke on my skin. One spray lasted a full 12 hours on my skin. This should appeal highly to SL fans of his earlier work with Sheldrake. As always, YMMV.

Aug
16
2014
Cereza
Cereza

Opening with a crystal clear and creamy musk soon overpowered by the same musk but now with much more dirty aspects, almost moldy, full with incense. I'd swear there is a flower present, for me it seems it's lily, even though at this point "L'orpheline" has few feminine features, it's purely unisex. As it develops more, I get a clear resemblance to Bruno Acampura "Musc" - the same nuances of musk - dirty, earthy, full of rotten leaves and mushrooms. Approaching drydown "L'orpheline" falls back to the same accords as in just after the opening - clear musk, this time much more enhanced by very sharp incense/olibanum.

Silage moderate and staying power well over 8 hour mark.

Jul
31
2014
meama
meama

L'Orpheline est très sexy.
On paper it's almost fresh and green ,incense + coumarine, in the continuity of Clair de Musc. It's like a creation of JC Ellena... but on skin it's pur sultry, the smell of a hot skin. A lot of cashmeran with salty musk like the base of dans Tes Bras or M/Mink more a persistent touch of incense (very light). It's deliciously indecent.
Unisex,the longevity is excellent like the sillage. A winner, the sillage is as good as a modern sweet bomb who instead of disgust you after one minute, gives you more the unconscious desire to approach you.

Jul
14
2014

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