Vitriol d’œillet Serge Lutens for women and men

A very important note is missing in this scent pyramid, and that is carnation. For many critics, Vitriol d’œillet failed to impress, but I'm going to add my two cents and say that I actually enjoyed wearing Vitriol d’œillet and am quite prepared to give it a favourable review.

Carnation is a gloriously rich floral scent, which in my opinion doesn't feature enough in fragrances these days. Vitriol d’œillet displays the beauty of this flower without overdoing it. However, clove and pink pepper do tend to be the most dominate notes in this composition.

Vitriol d’œillet, is in my opinion, the feminine equivalent of Givenchy's Xeryus Rouge. Red-hot, fiery peppers spice up both these fragrances with the same kind of allure found in Peruvian cuisine. It's like a taste explosion on the skin.

When I think of Serge Lutens, I usually think of big, bold scents, however in this particular case, Vitriol d’œillet is quite subtle in terms of sillage. It lays low, but pleasantly so. A touch of smooth powderiness stops this fragrance from becoming too spicy and hot.

I am rather enjoying the unique nature of this fragrance, and have worn it over two consecutive days. The way it develops and morphs on the skin is quite commendable in terms of composition and approach. It's different to say the least and also quite versatile. I'm rather glad that this is a unisex fragrance, because it's a scent I'd enjoy on both myself and my significant other.

The longevity of Vitriol d’œillet was really impressive, lasting a good eight hours or more. It's even difficult to scrub off in the shower, which was a good sign. This fragrance's reception has been varied, so be prepared to either love it or hate it. I truly hope that it works for more people because I personally think it deserves more attention.

glorious1,
I am inspired by your "whatever, whenever" approach to orientals. Where I live we also have a shortage of cold weather for a spicy oriental obsessive like me, so somethin's gotta give, right? I've decided, this summer I'm goin' full blown whatever, whenever! :-)

If you are looking for a carnation scent for winter wear, this is your scent! It's like carnations on steroids, very warm, spicy and enticing. This is a complex scent and takes it's sweet & spicy time developing into the most intoxicating blend of clove and peppers. The longer I wear it the more I love it and the lasting power is very good. Well done Mr. Lutens!

You notice a subtle change of direction on Serge Lutens line lately. I guess that it`s half aesthetic and half due to the restrictions on some materials that not allow him to work with the stressing of a specific note inside the composition. With this, you see that Serge Lutens launches are now between the avant-gard direction they used to be and close to a more wearable, almost commertial direction. Vitriol d`Oeillet suffers from this; it tries to do an angry, dark carnation, a sort of Serge Noire, but if fails to deliver something like that. The carnation note is only at the first five minutes, a dry, spicy, powdery accent, but it doesn`t last and it`s not strong. It`s only a teasing that is followed by a only slightly better spicy accord than the usual. There is also a proeminent flowery aroma, a kind of clean sensual one, that makes me think of orange flowers. I also detect a camphorated and a little bit patchouli playing the role of the base. This is not bad, but not astonishing either. It makes me think of Bottega Veneta, but simpler and less rich in details.

I live in SW Florida. I can't wait for cool weather to wear scents in particular so I wear them ALL YEAR whenever the mood strikes me. I get used to hot weather and spicy orientals.......whatever, whenever.

12/13/11: I tried this at Barney's and I really like it. I was given a sample, so I am happy about that. I am not sure why the note of Carnation is not shown above, but tuberose is also a top note.

The top notes are wonderful, but it's middle notes are spicy and I think conflicts with the top notes. It's bottom notes are more woodsy and the spice disappears (at least on me).

I think this is a very nice fall/winter scent.

It you are into blending scents, this fragrance is great with Byredo Bal D'Afrique. You will really love it.

Let me know what you think.

I was extremely intrigued by the notes & blend of this perfume, and very excited to try it. What a disappointment! There are sooo many misses in this perfume... Most of the spices hit hard, then go completely imperceptible while the musk and remnants of the nutmeg try desperately to mask what seems like razor edged aquatic/ozone notes. It came too close to cheap drug store aftershaves I recall boys wearing in high school. Aptly named though. "Vitriol" indeed! Back to my SL Cedre, Iris Silver Mist, and Datura Noior. :-)

If you are looking for something similar to insolence Guerlain but much better, here you are! Unfortunatelly it did not melt with my skin well and stay the whole time very present and a bit harsh.

Amazingly I thought the scent would smell hot considering the notes. Its not, its actually quite a cool and airy smelling juice. I detect an almost violet smell on application. I can smell the nutmeg and clove but its very subdued. I do not smell ANY of the peppers at all. I'm not sure why that is, but its just not there for me at all.


After about an hour I get a soapy powder smell. Its not laundry soap, but a very high end hand made body soap. Its amazingly clean and not at all annoying. I get the sweet pop of the clove here and there but again, its very soft.

At 4-5 hours its just about disappeared on me. I still get a bit of a sizzle from the nutmeg and clove but I've got to really look for it.


In Conclusion I think its quite lovely and I like that fact that while you notice the spice, it dosen't overwhelm the senses. There's nothing at all traditional about this scent, and belies what even the notes suggests!

Certainly its a great one to have in the wardrobe for those times when a good personal scent is needed as a pick me up. I can see this one being suited for men and women. Sometimes unisex can bend in one direction or another, but I see this one staying pretty much in the middle.

I haven't tried most of the Serge Lutens line yet But I've heard some really interesting things about it. This one is on the wish list at the moment.

I feel too much camphor and black pepper, that makes me almost sneezing ))) VO resembles Serge Noir, but from its worst side. I love SN, and VO, unfortunately, is extremely peppery for me. Disappointed, as I was waiting from Lutens for smth more flowery and orientally warm, but not so harsh (

I've finally found a Serge Lutens fragrance that suits me! This is a gorgeous mixture of sweetness and spice. The notes are multifaceted and seem to change every so often. I'll definitely be investing in a bottle!

Liked this one more than I thought I would. It's milder and more wearable than the notes would indicate. The reviews below can't really be improved on by me. I'm on the cusp about buying it, but will certainly test again and give it more thought.

I read fragrance blogs that this would be a Powdery CARNATION fragrance...
I imagined it .....to be a very modern take on the classic BELLODGIA by CARON
which I love for its in your face CARNATION notes....
softened by VANILLA, MUSK and CLOVE.

Boy was I pleasantly wrong.
This fragrance is really spicy. !!!!
PINK PEPPER... PEPPER... PIMENTO(PAPRIKA) are ingredients listed
and they are the are the strongest notes that hit my nose first
they then remain there tingling
much the way Jalapenos peppers tingle
the lips and tongue
This sounds ..terrible,unless you happen to like that kind of FIERY sensation
SERGE LUTENS manages to soften this fiery concotion
with CARNATION FLOWERS and a hint of CLOVE
The NUTMEG is a hidden note .. I could not detect.

The fragrance that it brings to mind for its similar
unique spiciness
If i could suggest such a thing...
AMBRE GRIS by BALMAIN

Both are spicy......and peppery and very masculine in
an upfront manner.
however, Vitriol turns into a light powdery spicy fragrance
which then develops into yes...
a sharp woody scent
and back again ....

A juxtoposition of scents...I know.
a most unusual feat in of itself .
that in the end .. is very unisex !!!

Bravo SERGE!!
You won me over again....with your complexity!

Vitriol's top notes come on, not with carnation or clove, but with what smells like black pepper and pink bubblegum. Slowly this fades to a transparent, violet-y drydown that never quite loses its pepper note. There's a certain woodiness to this scent, but it's mild and elusive, like some distant hint of Serge Noir hidden in the fragrance. It lasts very well, but stays light in sillage.

I'm rather neutral on this scent. It's neither as daring as I expect from a Lutens, nor as rich. That being said, it's not without interest or badly constructed.

The notes above don't begin to describe the depth of this fragrance. The initial note is iris. When it dries, I inhale and I am in an exotic place, perusing antique books lined up on mahogany bookshelves, my lips sticky with mango juice, my mouth remembering smoked chili and spice- cooled by the breathing herb garden just outside the window.

It's oriental spicy...clove and carnation seem very prominent in it like the title suggests(vivid-acid carnation).The heart note of nutmeg adds sweetness in it and measures the spiciness a bit...
good lasting power and this gives the sense of being a Luten's creation all the way!

*tested free sample

I also got my free sample this morning and promptly tried :)
Nice flowery/spicy scent! The opening is more masculine for me, but then it turns into powdery spicy unisex clove. When it dries down it becomes confortable and soapy. It is a linear frag and you can smell the clove and pepper notes from the beginning until the end.

I am so lucky receiving this free give away sample from Serge Lutens this morning. This fragrance is really spicy. You can even imagine from the notes (clove, pepper, nutmeg, pink pepper, paprika).

It's warm and would be most suitable for winter. As for summer wearing, IMO the drydown will probably energize your day. It develops into sharp woody/cedar compartment with a slight hint of flower. Overall, the clove is quite prominent till the end.