Niche Perfumery A New Kind of Perfume Tea: Wulóng Chá Nishane

A New Kind of Perfume Tea: Wulóng Chá Nishane

03/17/17 18:25:06 (One comment)

by: Sergey Borisov

The Turkish brand Nishane Istanbul has appeared in my country and has become more reachable than before. I'd like to commemorate this with a review of Wulóng Chá, my favorite creation by the house, and one that focuses on Oolong tea.

Wulong Cha by Nishane

Wulóng Chá Nishane
bergamot, orange, lychee and mandarin;
tea and nutmeg;
musk and fig.

I have to admit that my understanding of what Oolong tea tastes and smells like might not be ideal. And I haven't tasted Turkish tea yet, but I suspect that the name of the perfume was invented by Mert Güzel and Murat Katran independently from what thier perfumer Jorge Lee was making. The Oolong of Wulóng Chá smells far too green and crispy fresh, and I accept the name without a slightest complaint as a beautiful perfume legend about whatever they like, for example, tea.

If you have an experience with tea fragrances, you know that tea in perfumery has almost nothing related to tea in a teapot, but everyone SUDDENLY imagines that a citrusy fresh green perfume smells very tea-like, especially if it's labeled Green Tea.

Nishane founders, Mert Güzel and Murat Katran

Nishane founders, Mert Güzel and Murat Katran

Wulóng Chá  opens with cheerful mandarin skin and festive orange zest, you feel it even more deeply if you've had a chance to sample the perfume during the winter festive season. Aldehydes and a floral fruity accord of geraniol (wet rose petals and lychee pulp) add to the first impression. So no tea so far, especially if we talk about fermented tea, because I smell it very green and raw with morning dew on leaves and an occasional wild flower. No milky undertaste of Oolong, no woody nuance of Red tea, no smoke of Lansang Suchong, no earthy moldy Pu-erh, not even English Breakfast and Earl Grey. Instead I smell fresh and wet green leaves over a powdery woody base, the same classic powdery green tea which first appeared in Eau Parfumée (Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert) Bvlgari, and then in the tea collection by Elizabeth Arden.

Green tea

Usually, reviewers of tea-themed perfumes do not pay much attention to spices or herbs such as sage, cardamom, nutmeg or ginger, but always notice jasmine or bergamot in green tea, just like in real tea these components are too bright, sometimes brighter than a sophisticated canvas of grayish layers of tea itself.

The longest part of Wulóng Chá belongs to musks and ionones, they make it powdery white, woody and airy light. An effect of iron-hot Habanolide is present, often associated with ironed linen and responsible for the clean feeling of tea fragrances. You wear tea perfume along with an impression of rightness and order of things in your life, entering an ideal life situation which you have a chance to live for a couple of minutes. Tea perfumes have become the most popular office perfumes since the mid-90s.

The brightest accord of Wulóng Chá is green citrus in its top; everyone appreciates the naturalness of citruses, but I'd like to point out its ethereal, pleasing lightness. Not everyone could appreciate a sophisticated play of shadows and weightless perfume folds, and since Nishane pumped their perfumes up to Extrait de Parfum, the value of the jus has drastically increased among customers.

Nishane Istanbul logo

To know more about the brand, I heartily recommend you to read Julietta's review of the Nishane perfumes; she is great fan of theirs.
 

Sergey Borisov has been involved in perfumery since the early 90`s when he had his own perfume-devoted program “Close to Body” on Krasnoyarsk radio (1993). As a perfume enthusiast (known as moon_fish), he became famous in Russia for his translation of  Luca Turin's Perfume: Le Guide. He made a career as a fragrance journalist and contributed to distinguished magazines such as GQ, Vogue, Elle, Cosmopolitan, Interview, Forbes, Allure, Robb Report, Flacon, Departure, RBC-Style, TSUM-Magazine (2008-2016). His own online columns for RBC-Style.ru, Vogue.ru, and GQ.ru (2006-2015) have earned him international recognition and an invitation to be an editor for the Russian edition of “The Little Book of Perfumes” by Luca Turin & Tania Sanchez.  Sergey Borisov was invited as a speaker at Esxence 2012 (Milano) and Intercharm 2015 (Moscow). In 2013, Sergey joined the Fragrantica team.



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Nichyfragrance
Nichyfragrance

One of the best fragrances i have ever seen :)) Cool, sophisticated and fresh. Longevity is great as a citrus perfume.

Mar
18
2017

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