Niche Perfumery Amorosa by Ruth Mastenbroek

Amorosa by Ruth Mastenbroek

08/26/12 17:29:47 (One comment)

by: Suzy Nightingale


'Amorosa' means 'a woman in love' and is inspired by perfumer Ruth Mastenbroek's love affair with Italy, as well as an attempt to "...capture that excitement of a new love, to create an immediate, intense, connection. Inspired by the excitement and discovery of a new destination. The earth, mountains and the Italian skies. These influences have not only inspired the structure of the fragrance, but also the rich and vibrant colour palette of mocha and aqua in the packaging."
 



 I am often wary of fruit-based fragrances, but this one just blew me away with the surprising way it blooms on the skin. Perhaps appropriately for the inspiration of this perfume, it begins quite giddily in a flurry of excitement and softens with time into a more mature blend that seems to be an extension of your personality rather than just a perfume you happen to be wearing. Somehow it fills the space around you, becoming the environment you inhabit, an adventure to explore.


"The combination of top notes is vital and full of energy - a fruity green explosion of Water Melon, Violet Leaf and Galbanum. A sensual, floral heart features a new accord of Tuberose that has been spliced to create something more fresh and modern than it’s traditional sisters and combined with Jasmine, Tiare Flower and Ylang Ylang. The Amber Woody base keeps the fragrance grounded with Amber, Vetivert & Patchouli."
 

Having worked in the fragrance industry for the last 25 years, Ruth Mastenbroek took her Oxford chemistry degree background, infused it with her natural creativity and began working for one of the top fragrance companies, Quest, in their outposts all over the world, from Holland to Japan, learning all the while and soaking up influences from each culture she experienced. Later on she went on to be President of the British Society of Perfumers, and set up her own company, creating perfumes for such diverse brands as Jo Malone, Kenneth Turner and Jigsaw. Now able to focus on her own line at last, and three years after perfecting her signature fragrance, Ruth has really excelled herself with the creation of Amorosa.

Those people who like simple, minimalist perfumes - Amorosa is not for you, I'm afraid. This is a perfume that keeps on giving, from the beautifully balanced freshness of the crisply green opening of Violet Leaf and Galbanum, with the pop of that delicious Water Melon which carries throughout with the following notes opening around it like the petals of exotic flowers unfurling around a bowl of ripe fruit kept cool with crushed ice. A complex structure it may be, yet Amorosa never takes itself too seriously - this is the fragrance of a woman who grabs each day and shakes it, to wring every last drop of pleasure to be had from life.

I wondered if a younger customer base would be as excited about this fragrance as I am, and gave my sample vial to young colleague of mine, Amy, who, at seventeen years old is quite a number of years younger than me, though I shall certainly not be revealing exactly how many - and she absolutely loved Amorosa, too. Though she was initially drawn to the fruitiness, she kept going back to sniff her wrist as the various florals bloomed for several hours, saying "Ooh I DO like this!" It's interesting because we would probably choose quite different perfumes, generally; Amy likes fruity, fun perfumes like many young ladies of her age, while I tend to plump for the more complex, heavier Oriental or Chypre styles.


I have to say, the longevity of Amorosa is excellent - a few drops from my sample vial literally lasted on me the whole day through. It's not so strong as to surround you in a cloud and interfere with the people around you, but it wafts and billows in fragrant waves throughout the day - a constant pleasure that ripens with the wearer.
 

Amorosa manages to satisfy the cravings of those seeking lighthearted fruity freshness, the romantic floral-lovers and those olfactory hedonists who like to grab a little bit of everything from the fragrance buffet. Here we are given a perfume full of fresh, uplifting notes that bubble to surface like a sudden peal of laughter, heart notes of heady florals that blossom gloriously on the skin without overpowering the more delicate sprays of white flowers, and luscious fruits laden with juice that trickles finally into the gently spiced woodsy base that holds it together: a difficult balancing act to pull off, Amorosa showcases a skilled perfumer at the top of her game.

100ml Eau de Parfum £80
50ml Eau de Parfum £60
Sample Vial £3

 



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paulina
paulina

Thank you for sharing this new perfume. Just a comment, I believe that "amorosa" means "loving" as in "a loving woman" and not "in love" which, if I am not mistaken, would be "innamorata" in case you're talking about a woman.

Aug
26
2012

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