Fragrance Reviews Antonia's Flowers: A Review of All Five Scents

Antonia's Flowers: A Review of All Five Scents

03/19/17 13:44:37 (4 comments)

by: Juliett Ptoyan

There's almost no info about Antonia's Flowers these days. Only a little is known for sure: the first fragrance was released in 1985, and all the subsequent ones were created around the same floral theme (except for the men's Rokka). The owner of the brand is a former florist, Antonia Bellanca-Mahoney, who in 1981 opened her own flower shop in East Hampton, and nine years after decided to concentrate on the perfume business. The brand is rarely engaged with self-promotion, and laconic descriptions of fragrances make it clear that the smell is more important here.

Antonia Bellanca with Tess, a daughter
Antonia Bellanca with Tess, a daughter

The first, main and eponymous fragrance of Antonia's Flowers is dedicated to freesia - the favorite flower of the florist; it was created by Bernard Chant with headspace technology and comes in three concentrations: EdT, EdP and extrait. The mature beauty of Asoluto can be compared with the white Italian smile of Dolce Vita or Poême - the same buttery jasmine, velvet skin of the peach, carnal, ceremonial narcissuses and lilies, and freesia: lemon yellow, snow-white, bright pink, lilac.... This is not a breathing, freshly picked bouquet: it stood for a day or two in the house, and drank water from a heavy crystal vase. Next to the vase, at the window, the hostess halways has a bottle of Mitsouko at the table.

In the collection of the brand, Asoluto can be called the most "French" - it does not have an American straightforwardness, as there is no deafening loudness or flirting with purity: it could go somewhere between Estée, from which it took spicy sparkles of topnotes, and Emanuel Ungaro Diva, in whose heart are found all the same peaches and animal shades of flowers.

If in the EdT a modest conditional-floral accord is filled with an impenetrable layer of musk and aldehydes, then in the EdP, cocoa shavings are added to them at some point, and the fragrance falls into three parts: aldehyde-floral, white and semi-edible.

Lifehack: spray the EdT one or two times on the curtains and open the window. As the result the house really will smell of freesias.

flowers

Sogni del Mare continues the floral theme: it is the smell of a garden by the sea, the aroma is transparent and sun-drenched, like a light sundress or a dry leaf from a black currant bush, caught by a lock of hair. Sogni del Mare is a story about a black currant in an aquatic key, with a spirit that resembles rather unsaturated, full-bodied things like Cassis Aftelier or Enchanted Forest, but a harmless Cool Water Summer Dive Man. The comparison is quite general: in both eaux there is already no electrified, ecstatic freshness of original Cool Water, but there are aromatic nuances that raise the aroma, make it lighter, airier. This coniferous-grassy accord in Sogni del Mare is incredibly dynamic: at first it balances over the lotus pond, then gets lost in the black currant haystack washed in the rain, mixed with the smell of icy berry juice, casually kisses the disheveled peony head and leans back: after an hour or two the young spirit of a coniferous forest is drawn by one of those fresh flankers, the long and meaningless name of which the brain cannot remember.

tiempe passate antonia's flowers

The role of good freesia in the Bellanka-Mahoney line performs like another fragrance: Tiempe Passate, which begins with a flickering floral fog that dissipates and reveals a kaleidoscope with blue-green glass: watercolor spills of freesias, a handful of pine nuts, wild flowers and bitter chestnut honey, a tickle of lavender, and a breeze, flying off the branches of mimosa - it is interesting to wear and great to perceive from your skin; from the side, it does not stand out with anything special - an aromatic haze with white musk and only.

Rokka, a cologne created together with the charity organization Chill, is not as simple as it is positioned: it is a frosty, pointy scent of juniper and cedar, in which here and there shimmers the shades of leather, predatory violets, bitter orange peel and bitter honeycombs. It will surely appeal to everyone who loves men's mists by Lush - cheerful, dynamic, all-season - but it's worth paying attention to for those who are fond of aromatics: the porous skeleton of cologne here is fumigated with coniferous incense, which brings it closer to, for example, Bois de Gaïac et Genièvre Yves Rocher, but allows to save face.

floret antonias flowers

Floret, the most ambiguous of the line, is the watercolor sketch in yellow-green tones and - suddenly - old-fashioned hairspray; it is surely created in the spirit of the 90's and shows us not a full fragrance, but a characteristic accord with feijoa juice, sweet peas and homemade lemonade, which lives peacefully and serenely, but at some point meets with a toxic cloud of hair styling product and, passing through it, settles on the skin with something, remotely resembling all the watery aromas of Avon at once. In the EdT version, you can still see the bitterness of olive oil, which obviously plays the same role here as chocolate in EdP Antonia's Flowers. The beginning of Floret could be an excellent additional nuance to the first perfume of the brand, but it became an independent EdP - and judging by the fact that it can still be bought on the official website, customers are quite happy with it.

 

Julietta Ptoyan

Journalist

Julietta is an editor and columnist for Fragrantica.ru who joined our team in 2015 after several years of working in the beauty industry.

She also contributes to Russian glossy magazines as a perfume journalist and has a passion for contemporary fragrances, launched from the 90s til now.



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perfumecritic
perfumecritic

LOVE this line, great to see them in the spotlight, Juliett! The eponymous fragrance and Floret were the two I remember most enjoying. Now I need to go and hunt these down!

Mar
21
2017
NebraskaLovesScent
NebraskaLovesScent

It is indeed an overlooked line nowadays, which is a shame as all the scents are very beautiful. The signature Antonia's Flowers was my favorite but it has been awhile since I sniffed them. Might be time to give them another look. Thanks for bringing it to our attention again, Julietta!

Mar
21
2017
onaona
onaona

Perfect, perfect, perfect! Thank you for turning the spotlight to the Antonia's Flowers creations. Given the chance, I know it will shine as beautifully for other members here as it has always done for me.

Psst, while you're at it, would you PLEASE provide a thumbnail for Asoluto. That little humming bird has been there for years :( The fragrance, my favorite from the house, is breathtakingly beautiful. It's past time to show off the lovely bottle :)

Mar
19
2017
Filomena1941
Filomena1941

I once had all of her fragrances and still have the original Tiempe Passante and Sogni di Mare,, both of which to me are summer in a bottle.

Mar
19
2017

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