New Fragrances Eau Sauvage Cologne Christian Dior: New and Original

Eau Sauvage Cologne Christian Dior: New and Original

04/28/15 16:03:41 (6 comments)

by: Sergey Borisov

Perfume lovers' relations with new and old may surprise the uninitiated people by their inconsistency and confusion. We forgive 30-years old vintage perfumes their far-from-ideal smell but categorically do not forgive that our favorite perfume formula was changed once again. We love the discontinued and rare perfumes (though usually the next day after it's been officially announced) and adore announcements of new perfume launches (easily condemning their similarity to each other). We complain that the perfume, bought a year ago, has changed already and then read through the Fragrantica announcements, in search of better new products.


In general, we love both old and new. We love to push the boundaries of the unknown. New fragrances are always interesting. Good old and legendary ones are also always interesting. Just to learn something we didn't know.

That's why I was discovering new fragrance Christian Dior Eau Sauvage Cologne with interest AND a sinking heart. It seems to be the same classic form, but not in its details: a white box; the ribbon around the bottle is not metallic but white/silver; the stopper is white/silver also but with a 'CD' monogram on top and fastens on with trendy magnets. And it is quite a clear liquid, in contrast to the yellow-tinted eau de toilette created by Edmond Roudnitska. Had the legendary cologne-savage lost its character together with its color?

No. It is a different perfume.

A hands-on comparison of the new Christian Dior Eau Sauvage Cologne with previous versions of Eau Sauvage, the oldest of which is Christian Dior  Eau Sauvage Pour Homme eau de toilette in a splash bottle, showed that they all share genes of citrus freshness and belong to the army of colognes. Comparing the smells made me surprised that they have the same name, just like with any other man-made object (telephones, ships, planes, shoes) that has a long history of development.

So, Christian Dior Eau Sauvage Cologne is a fresh citrus cologne. What sort of cologne is it? Powerfully refreshing, unusually long lasting and therefore it feels more synthetic. Where the old EDT version hides its lemons, bergamot, rosemary and transparent jasmine under the oakmoss and carnations, hinting at a relationship with chypre family through the Diorella girl, the new EDC version continues to trumpet the secret of citrus eternal life in the form of grapefruit and white musks, ushering in a new way of freshness.

The secret was found by Francois Demachy for grapefruity Dior Homme Cologne (2013) in a white bottle. Now Eau Sauvage Cologne Christian Dior also became white, both externally and by its internal content. Now it is not a soft white glow for three hours, but a sharp, radiant, even blinding whiteness that will last all day.

The new version lacks the aromatic line of Provençal herbs (rosemary, basil) and dry moss base almost completely. There are white musks, a sharp metallic luster, the white thick peel of grapefruit zest and its freshness extended by a sharp vetiver accord. Yes, it's quite different from the EDT. But no one will say: “Who is wearing grandpa's cologne?” The new cologne is so up-to-date and contemporary, made for a young man of the 21stI century.

Here is how Christian Dior brand explains the changes in its press release:


"…Born as a symbol of renewal, Eau Sauvage appears in 1966, sweeping away everything old. This unexpected, unprecedented fragrance embodies the image of the restless youth—bright, bustling, finding his own way. Since then, Eau Sauvage gained the status of the great classics.

His courage has turned into an absolute standard. Permanently popular for every new generation it impresses. Today, it seeks to conquer again a modern young people.


2015: Eau Sauvage starts a new revolution. The new version of the fragrance—cologne is born. Stunningly spectacular, so different. Invincible ... Eau Sauvage Cologne, rebellious heritage.


How to create a new interpretation of a legend? Carefully but deliberately breaking down the foundations. With reverence, but with an audacity. Fresh and bright fragrance Eau Sauvage Cologne astonishes. Its timeless elegance is easily recognizable, but features a new face and new nuances. Instantaneous, exciting, undoubted charm. A new modern cologne that goes beyond fashion trends and seasons. New youth of legendary composition ..."
 

So many words to say the simple thing: Eau Sauvage will be quite different in the 21st century.  More precisely: there will be many different faces of Eau Sauvage. Because the face of the eau de toilette of the twentieth century is different from all the modern namesake fragrances: from Eau Sauvage EDT, from Eau Sauvage Extreme, from Eau Sauvage Parfum, and especially new Eau Sauvage Cologne. And all four of these “savages” of the 21st century are like the four sons of a father passed down into history.

We started to forget gradually about the former legend's true face, which we remembered after a lot of perfumers, critics and users praised it. The face immortalized by René Gruau's illustrations and by Alain Delon's young face. Almost half a century has passed since its launch. People were so different in those times; so many things and ideas have changed in 50 years. What we consider the ideal vacation, the ideal telephones, the cars and the best running shoes look so different now. And so, ideal values ​​for human beings have changed, too. The image of the rebels and the air of freedom in the 60s are different from what we consider freedom and rebels to be today, in the 21st century.

Christian Dior Eau Sauvage Cologne (2015)

Start notes: Grapefruit, Bergamot, Tangerine, Petitgrain, Anise;
Heart notes: Hedione, Pink Pepper, Galbanum;
Base notes: Musks, Vetiver.

 

 

Serguey Borisov

Serguey Borisov has been known in the Internet world of perfume under the nickname moon_fish for more than 10 years. Now he writes about perfumes for GQ.ru and Vogue.ru, and contributes on the subject for glossy magazines.

 

 

 

 



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alextang2k
alextang2k

I really miss EAU SAUVAGE EXTREME the classic ......

May
03
2015
fqjcior
fqjcior

Thank you for the nice review. As I am a fan of the original Eau Sauvage and I like other flankers as well (especially the vintage Extreme) I will blind buy Cologne for sure. Not to mention that I adore Monsieur Demachy style, skills and talent. I can imagine that ES Cologne is an Eau Sauvage for a contemporary young man. But I am almost sure that it is not going to became such a classic as the original Eau Sauvage. Different time, different customer, different (oversturated) market. Let's hope it will be at least as good as Dior Homme Cologne which I like very much.

Apr
30
2015
Luna_J
Luna_J

I for one never experienced the original, but enjoy the reformulation in its own right as an update eau de cologne. I am not sure I am all that interested in this new product, however, as grapefruit as a note feels a little too ubiquitous these days in 'fresh' scents (not to mention pink pepper). The rhetoric about 'rebelliousness' and 'tradition' is a miserable hash even by perfume press release standards (and that really is saying something.) I also have to add that I find the use of youthful pictures of an old actor a bit odd... Can't they find someone contemporary who they feel embodies the values they want to identify with this product? I wouldn't mind seeing an older face as is... Why flee from old-man-ness?

Apr
28
2015
fazalcheema
fazalcheema

I am so glad I am stocked on the original version (over 2 liter)..my newest bottle is also the brown box version which still retained significant magic of the original formula...thus, I have the luxury to stay away from newer formulas which are eau sauvage in name only...though i do understand the logic of modernizing but even the rule of modernization should not apply to few classics like Eau Sauvage whose smell was timeless to begin with..it just cannot get outdated or boring and those who reach that conclusion must be smelling the white box version by which time the whole soul of original eau sauvage had been completely sucked out..

Apr
28
2015
NickZee
NickZee

Get in my tummy!

Apr
28
2015
Sherihan
Sherihan

I always loved ES,this cologne if it comes in splash bottle, it is on my shopping bag from now, that have been said, I'm in love with this juice since first sniff, I preferred the Extreme black bottle, as it was mor of a party type. Hope this will be permanent in the line, with extra new bath line, as a lot of Dior shelves lacking these products almost all the time.

Apr
28
2015

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