Vintages Hot Glam: Revisiting Scherrer 2

Hot Glam: Revisiting Scherrer 2

11/07/16 11:07:12 (18 comments)

by: Miguel Matos

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Scherrer perfumes

When a perfume older than 30 years is still in production today, that means one of two things: either it still has a considerable number of clients or it is a masterpiece that represents its brand's image. Scherrer 2 is both. However, it is an underrated fragrance that is not abundantly discussed by reviewers, both perfume lovers or perfume professionals. And I think it deserves more attention.

2 was obviously the second perfume by Jean-Louis Scherrer, the famous Parisian fashion designer. The first one you can read about in this wonderful article by my colleague Jodi. Born in the 30s, Jean Louis Scherrer trained as a ballet dancer, which introduced him to theatrical costumes and prepared him to design clothes that would suit the public roles of women connected with politics, theater and the arts. His love affair with fashion took him to Dior, where he worked alongside Yves St Laurent in the 50s. From 1962 to 1992, Jean-Louis Scherrer dressed the most prestigious women of those decades: Farah Diba, the Kennedy family, Princess Paola of Belgium, France’s then-First Lady Mrs Giscard d’Estaing, actresses Michèle Morgan, Sophia Loren, Raquel Welch and Isabelle Adjani, acclaimed writer Françoise Sagan and so many more. So when we talk about Scherrer, or at least the Scherrer from the 80's, we are referring to top glam, shoulder pads couture, rich bitch fragrances. And 2 embodies all of this.

Scherrer 2 is, most of all, an oriental fragrance. Amber is the accord to which everything else is anchored. But it comes with all the tools of a snob operatic perfume of the 80's: honey, tuberose, aldehydes. I mean, this is a red lipstick, fur coat, stiletto heels woman (even though it is highly recommended for men too). It has an aggressiveness when you meet it for the first time, and that can keep you at a distance. This is not just a façade, you really have to like your scents bold in order to enjoy this. But just as the first spray may come across as harsh, it also develops quickly in a way that it seems to promise other caresses after the first whip. Scherrer 2 is talked about for its use of pineapple. To my nose this isn't, however, a pineapple staple. I mean, yes it is there, but when the pineapple note is fused with huge doses of orange, honey and white florals, it becomes a functional note to link everything together in a tropical, exotic, golden way. All these notes, together with the carnal tuberose and the acidity of the fruits, may recall a heady orange blossom. But that is an effect. To go with all this and make it an even more fleshy perfume, there are animalic shades that come in bits and pieces from all the notes already mentioned, but the adding of civet and castoreum wraps it up in warm leathery naughtiness. The olfactive pyramid is a dream of rich and exotic ingredients:

Bottle

 

Top Notes
Mandarin from Portugal, Rose, Jasmine, Angelica, Tuberose, Violet Leaves

Heart Notes
Cinnamon, Bourbon Vetiver, Mysore Sandalwood, Myrrh, Cedar wood

Base Notes
Civet, Castoreum, Benzoin, Patchouli, Opoponax, Musk, Oak Moss

 

Having said this, I think Scherrer 2 is an example of breaking rules. It has the elegant bite of a chypre, it's a sexy oriental, it's a sweet floral, it's boldly animalic... and in the tension that it creates from the battle, it is a very interesting experience to have. Nowadays this may be the underdog of the brand still managed by Designer Parfums, but it deserves to be talked about, praised and smelled. Especially in the winter, when it can be a warm, tropical and sexy thing to have on your skin. Impossible not to mention is the exceptionally glamorous bottle, designed by Serge Mansau, evoking an architectural sculpture in Art Deco style. Scherrer 2 is an experience every vintage lover should look for, if you think you can handle the slap on your face when you spray it and even enjoy it. Yes, it is a bit dated. It comes with big hair and shoulder pads. But that's why I love it.

Bottle


Scherrer 2 is still widely available in Eau de Toilette 25ml, 50ml & 100ml spray.

Miguel Matos is a Portuguese journalist obsessed with perfume. Miguel likes to see himself as a fragrance curator, investigating perfume as contemporary art. He directs his own cultural magazine, Umbigo, and he has a background as an art critic. He is a vintage perfume collector and organizes regular talks called Vintage Perfume Sniffing and is an honorary member of the International Perfume Bottle Association. He writes on beauty and grooming for Beautyalmanac.com. Miguel is a Fragrantica writer, translator and editor of Fragrantica.com.br.



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KeLLStar
KeLLStar

I haven't worn my Scherrer 2 in years. I guess it's time to revisit! :)

Feb
22
2017
LLB_addict
LLB_addict

Excellent review. I needed to learn more about Mr. Scherrer! Scherrer fragrances only first came to my attention this past Christmas. I now own at least 4....and LOVE them all!

Feb
22
2017
'Mongolica
'Mongolica

Thanks for the review Miguel! I enjoyed it very much reading it. i own vintage Scherrer II as well. Love it! Felling very glam when i wear it.

Feb
21
2017
Sherihan
Sherihan

"shoulder pads" thing is always mentioned in all reviews about any 80's perfume , reviewers MUST go on mentioning them , oh and the "big hair" stuff. This kind of description started to be a "tongue in cheek" and boring.

Jan
05
2017
Angela Agiannidou
Angela Agiannidou

Thank you for this article Miguel, we, at Fragrantica, can trust that you always highlight the beautiful concoctions of today and those which are still around and treasured by the more discerning noses. I own Scherrer 2 and I was impressed with its warm and beauty. It's the kind of Aldehydic scent that appeals to me with a huge input from resins, animalics and florals. The main attraction for me is the prominent honey and benzoin with the floral basis softening and balancing the warmth from the top notes. I am getting a new bottle, in our current weather it will be bang on!

Nov
09
2016
Rohawa
Rohawa

I love this one - but I experience it more as a 'honey aldehyde'!

Nov
09
2016
Chanel4Evah
Chanel4Evah

LINDA EVANGELISTA!!!!!!! She's in the ad! I am going searching eBay for this right now!!!!! Sounds Audacious and Thrilling!!!!! Love my scents big and Lioness like!

Nov
08
2016
Jyrhara
Jyrhara

So many interesting perfumes to try and so little time... (and money)!
I have this on my "to try" list, maybe after such a great review (and all the comments) I'll speed up the time to get it :-)

Nov
08
2016
perfumecritic
perfumecritic

I've been eyeing this one for a while now so this article is well-timed. Just purchased a large bottle with the hopes it is more oriental than chypre and based on your glowing praise. Fingers Crossed! I loved Nuits Indiennes but disliked original Scherrer....

Nov
08
2016
leila_mic
leila_mic

I have it and love it! A gorhlgeous fragrance well suited for autumn and winter, day or night

Nov
08
2016
ilovekylie
ilovekylie

i have one

Nov
08
2016
TillyWave
TillyWave

JLS 2 is a high quality, complex, underrated, and completely affordable perfume. It's one on the best Oriental style fragrances I've ever smelled. The new stuff smells great to me, if it was reformulated, I have to guess it was done right.

Nov
07
2016
Flora55
Flora55

Thanks for the great review Miguel! I love this one too, and I recently got hold of a couple of little bottles of the vintage - to die for! The best use of pineapple since Patou's Colony (now sadly reformulated with no pineapple at all) and narcotically sensual. I love it any time of year, but it's especially cozy in winter. I am a fan of all the Scherrers, and like SolangeN the original one is my holy grail, but Scherrer 2 is outstanding in its own way, an Oriental perfume that blazed its own path, unlike no other.

Nov
07
2016
2ScentsWorth
2ScentsWorth

Its been my wife's signature perfume for years. Its simply gorgeous!

Nov
07
2016
Filomena1941
Filomena1941

I wish I still had my bottle of original Scherrer 2.

Nov
07
2016
PerfumeEmpress
PerfumeEmpress

"When a perfume older than 30 years is still in production today, that means one of two things: either it still has a considerable number of clients or it is a masterpiece that represents its brand's image."

There's a third, nefarious meaning: It's been bloody reformulated! (she says, in a furious tone)

I used to wear Sherrer 2. It was gorgeous. I hope they have not reformulated.

These classics should never be tampered with. And don't give me any "adapted to younger taste" idiocy. If the young do not like the oldies, there are scores of fruity, overly-sweet, Eaux de Mallrat they can choose from.

Nov
07
2016
Nikkafragrance
Nikkafragrance

I love my Scherrer 2! It's a warmth in a bottle!

Nov
07
2016
SolangeN
SolangeN

Designer Perfumes Ltd really deserves recognition for ensuring the survival of the Scherrers and other classics like Patou. These are relatively obscure fumes that, absent DPs involvement, would surely have disappeared, and i am grateful for it.

Original Scherrer is my personal 'desert island' scent. I have a lifetime backup supply of vintage edp, edt and the precious parfum; as well as the current edp and edt. I have to say DPs reformulations are outstanding. I wear them all, a little more freely with the new stuff because its,replenishable. I always meant to try Scherrer II and need to.

Please perfume lovers - show Designer Perfumes some love so these masterpieces survive! I'm holding out hope they'll get and restore the Fendis, Balmains and Balenciagas one day...

Nov
07
2016

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