Niche Perfumery La Manufacture: New French Perfume House

La Manufacture: New French Perfume House

04/17/14 16:01:21 (2 comments)

by: Eugeniya Chudakova

This Esxence was rich in houses that maybe lack so-called “creativity” and “modernity” but are so purely noble and impeccably elegant that you have no need for something more “conceptual.” One of them is new French perfume house La Manufacture created by Bruno Truchon Bartès, who spent more than twenty years in major fragrance companies before starting his own project, at which he arrived to combine his passions for perfumery and historic preservation of ancient buildings.

It rarely happens when I like everything about the brand: the scents, the story, the personalities behind it, bottles and packaging, self-presentation. This time it is that very case. Everything is so simple but endlessly stylish that I can just say a big thank-you to the creators of La Manufacture for these moments of olfactory, visual and communication pleasure during the busy days of Esxence fair. And a big thank-you as well for respect to the country’s history, the raw materials used in classical perfumery, to artisanal traditions.

What gives La Manufacture’s fragrances their elegance and depth is the poetry of the past and the meticulous moments spent concentrating on the raw materials. The ingredients for the fragrances in the Colognes Essentielles collection and the scented candles by La Manufacture des Château are selected with the utmost of care. Measured out precisely and with emotion by exacting master perfumers with a passion for quality, they are used to produce perfume concentrates in Grasse, the cradle of French perfume-making.

The first brand’s perfume collection is called Les Colognes Essentielles and originated in one man’s story and in his unconditional love for colognes, sparkling freshness and joyful perfumery.  It all started at a medieval castle, The Donjon de Moret in France [Château de Moret situated in Moret-sur-Loing—a small town in Seine-et-Marne département that was inspiration for impressionists like Camille Pissarro, Alfred Sisley, Claude Monet and Pierre-Auguste Renoir—E.C.], owned by a friend of Bruno who gave him the idea of creating a “Cologne du Donjon” that would unite his twin passions for historic architecture and fragrances …

The first Collection took three years to be prepared. It was a kind of a quest for authenticity and delicacy, a quest that has yielded strong fragrances, conceived with simplicity. Their streamlined architecture, based on raw materials selected with great discernment, like finely-cut gemstones, is a pleasure to contemplate. Nothing extraneous clutters up the composition and each note matters.

This simplicity asks for perfection, which is the key to eliciting emotion. A joyful, private emotion, one that is quite essentielle.

Cologne Rare
A breath of bergamot and basil

Bergamot collides with basil, peel meets leaf. Notes full of character cross steel in an exchange of green …The green tartness of rhubarb yields to the somber green of patchouli and vetiver, giving rise to full-bodied base notes. A breath of coolness lingers, weaving among heightened wood notes.

“I chose bergamot from Italy for its lavender and pepper undertones. The basil from Egypt, with its singular anise note, makes the transition from citrus to green heart. The green is darkened by a smoky-leather note specific to vetiver from Haiti.”

Carla Chabert, perfumer

 

Cologne Noble
A breath of mandarin orange and green spices

Firstly, the brightness of citrus notes. The zesty accents of mandarin orange blend into a burst of fresh spices: cardamom, then coriander. Matte, dry nutmeg introduces the deep fullness of oak moss. Iris and musk join to form a velvety base, soft as a caress.

“I used the peppery-gingery aspect of cardamom from Guatemala to create an explosive clash of spices and citrus. The oak moss from Slovenia accentuates the leather-velvet effect that I wished to give the iris and musk bottom notes”.

Carla Chabert, perfumer

Cologne Précieuse
A sight of orange blossom

Smooth and effervescent, the bergamot-basil accord bursts onto the air. Neroli petals work their soft magic around the vibrant rose to from the heart. This silky, enveloping scent leaves the skin with a sweet impression of returning to childhood.

“I sculpted this Cologne from a cloud, playing on the contrast between the metallic aspect of rose oxide and the soft, cottony effect of the musks. I played with a palette of white musks to render all of the tonalities of the skin.”

Anne Sophie Behaghel, perfumer

All these Colognes are clear, bright and perfectly balanced, elegant and intelligent. They are like a good book. If used correctly they can polish any dork into a gentleman. Scent can be forgotten, but style? Never.

   Thanks to La Manufacture for the information!
 

Eugeniya Chudakova is a Fragrantica contributor from Russia. She joined our team in 2013 to work on perfume news and reports from perfume events.

Eugeniya is the founder and author of olfactorybeing perfume blog.

 

 



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drugstore classics
drugstore classics

Fascinating... thank you Eugeniya, for this peek at a new perfume house!

Apr
18
2014
lucasai
lucasai

These three colognes are really nice perfume. They all have the cologne vibe but each of them presents that in a different way thanks to various notes used in their compositions.
Really worth a try!

Apr
18
2014

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