Vintages My old friend Balenciaga pour Homme

My old friend Balenciaga pour Homme

03/12/16 17:08:21 (9 comments)

by: Mike V. Shilov

Recently I felt nostalgic about discontinued fragrances but today I'm happy to discover new and rediscover old beautiful fragrances. Firstly, I've found and ordered on-line amazing Havana Vanille and Black Afghan. And once, surfing beloved Fragrantica, I found a real gem in the dust - Balenciaga pour Homme issued 26 years ago. Having read the description and passionate reviews, I started looking for it over the web and found a good bargain, considering its rarity.

photo by Mike V.Shilov

Balenciaga and its olfactory pyramid recalled bright and self assured fragrances of the 80s: One Man Show, Furyo, Phileas, Lauder and my permanent companion since early adolescence Tuscany per Uomo. At that time perfumers still had free hands in their work; IFRA recommendations did not transform real perfumes into their pale copies. That's why trying Balenciaga pour Homme, just brought by a courrier, became a thrilling immersion into the nearly forgotten feeling of richness and deepness of a scent. Oak moss, leather, incense, patchouli, amber are just several treasures of this vintage masterpiece. Its age shows itself only in therichness of ingredients and there is neither a retro-feeling in it nor stuffiness.

Telling you that I'm struck and amazed is only to express the emotional side of perceiving this newly opened old scent. Myvrational side immediately felt the quintessence of what many modern niche fragrances want to create. Being less dependent of marketing limitations, they can afford themselves this level of sophistication and ambiguousness, this way of expression of a free talent that was a standard in the perfume industry long ago. But the irony is that some niche brands look like excessively chic demi-mondaines wearing fur coats on naked bodies and others like capsule H&M collections' fans who delude themselves with a sense of belonging to an Haute Couture world.

Against them, a severe monolith like Balenciaga pour Homme looks like a reminder of "comme il faut", considering a certain level of upbringing, education and social status.

This fragrance is sophisticated and elegant, multi-layered and intellectual. One can make sense of it as a conundrum, listening to the finest trembling of perfume waves changing with your every move and with the time flow transforming into a long sweet veil.

The malachite embellishment on the stopper adds an important accent to understanding the scent: it isn't smug, but full of joy and timeless beauty. I want to admire it again and again; each time when I push the spray button, it seems that I see my reflection in a mirror. Its amalgam is a bit faded, but the patina doesn't prevent one from seing what is the most important: the only destination of a soul in a bottle is to find its twin soul among us.

Translation: Eugeniya Chudakova

Mike V. Shilov

One of the most successful interior designers in Russia, he is also considered one of the top 10 designers in the world according to Architectural Digest magazine.

Mike graduated from Moscow University and has devoted more than 10 years to beauty and design, reviewing and reporting. Mike was the editor for the first Russian glossy magazine NRG.

In the beginning of the 1990s, Mike was the first Russian journalist at the fashion shows of Milan and Paris. His interviews with Gianfranco Ferré, Jean Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler, Kenzo and Paco Rabbane have opened the world of haute couture to the Russian audience.

10 years ago Mike decided to change his occupation and finally started to do what he had always dreamed of, - interior design. More details: www.mikeshilov.com

 



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Vmakarov
Vmakarov

Thanks Mike, really, really great article- right on target!
You 100% right, this is real niche scent as it should be. So pity-really hard to find - every drop is a treasure 4Me.
I think that time ( 90s) this fragrance could not be evaluated as it should cause of complexity and uniqueness and I disagree that it's recalling perfumes of the '80s. It is just another world, another universe....
This is what I call masterpiece, creation of gods (as you are, Monsieur Anthony), hidden treasure...

Mar
28
2016
karlovonamesti
karlovonamesti

Truly a beautiful fragrance, one of the greats. Has a touch of Kouros, a touch of Yatagan, and a bit of Furyo in it as well, yet stands on its own merits as one of the most original and unforgettable perfumes of the early 90s.

Mar
16
2016
MegaMav
MegaMav

Certainly a statement maker now, alpha male scent frozen in the 1980's. Massive patchouli, oakmoss and incense. I had to sell my bottle, there is no way I could expect anyone to take me seriously in this age wearing it. Certainly well crafted, but some things are better off left in the past, I think this is one of them.

I sold my 30ml bottle. Its more of an "at home" musing type of fragrance now. Likely to offend in the era of "thou-shall-not-offend" fragrances.

Mar
15
2016
ZELJO
ZELJO

got two small bottles and a big one and save them all as a treeasure

Mar
14
2016
Labaloo
Labaloo

I treasure my bottle as well- gorgeous fragrance!

Mar
13
2016
veda
veda

I so love this fragrance!
Thank you for this article!!

Mar
13
2016
perfumecritic
perfumecritic

One of my all-time favorites and my first ever purchase in Paris as a teen. I still keep a 30ml bottle in my collection.

Mar
13
2016
zoka
zoka

Very good article Mike and welcome aboard. Thank you for contributing article to Fragrantica. After this article I had to jump to eBay and grab one bottle to see how it works on me.

Mar
12
2016
ILikePeeps
ILikePeeps

One of my top frags. <3 Balenciaga pour Homme. My bottles might outlast me.. though, I may pick up another/more - who knows! Muhah

Mar
12
2016

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