Niche Perfumery New Aether Methaldone

New Aether Methaldone

03/17/17 18:17:44 (6 comments)

by: Matvey Yudov

The perfume brand Aether, a younger sister to old and solid Le Galion, appeared to be a true rule-breaker since its debut at Esxence one year ago, declaring artificial smells and molecules as their inspiration. Their new perfume, Methaldone, has been recently announced.

Aether Methaldone

According to the official information, the fragrance is weird, but generally pleasant and sweetly metallic. It might be an olfactory impression (if we fantasize) of an astronaut working in space: the smell of nothing and incandescent metal.
 

Rodrigo Flores-Roux

Let's take a look at the materials Rodrigo Flores-Roux used for this perfume. Rodrigo works at Givaudan, and he is known for creating very interesting and commercially successful fragrances based on new technologies and molecules developed by Givaudan.

Labdanum

Dynamone is a fraction of labdanum extract (lat. Cistus Ladaniferus), a similar product by Givaudan's competitor IFF is called Ambrain. This substance possesses a complex and deep resinous woody aroma. As you can see, even this totally abstract and even "cosmic" composition could not be done without high quality natural materials.
 

Belambre

The second component is Belambre, which was synthesized from camphor in 2001. It has a dry, even somewhat dusty, woody-ambery scent, with a very light smoky nuance reminiscent of oudwood or tobacco. According to its olfactory profile and structure, Belambre is similar to Spirambrene (which is more aldehydic and spicy salty marine) and to Ambrocenide.

Ambermax

Another amber component of the Methaldone perfume is Ambermax, a mighty woody-amber odorant with an accent on cedar, which is very new, synthesized by Givaudan chemists only 10 years ago.
 

Sylvanone


Silvanone, or more precisely, Silvanone Supra, is a macrocyclic musk, a mixture of Cyclohexadecanolide (62%) and Cyclopentadecanone ("Exaltone", 38%). It is a sweet powdery musk with a slight animalic nuance, close to nitro musks.
 

Boisiris

Boisiris is another very curious and popular modern material with a characteristic woody-amber-iris profile and tobacco nuances. You might have seen it in perfume press releases under the name of "violet wood". A similar product by Firminich is Physeol.
 

Rosyrane

And, finally, perhaps, the main ingredient, according to the creators, is Rosyrane or Rosyrane Super. It is very close by its structure to rose oxide, which is a minor component of the rose essential oil (geranium has it in a bigger quantity). This one is responsible for a green metallic aspect.

Methadone and Heroin


The name Methaldone refers to Methadone, which is a strong opioid analgesic often used in rehabilitation therapy from a heroin dependency. I don't feel like talking much about heroin so I'll just mention that Heroin was trademarked by Bayer AG and was sold as a cough medicine for kids from 1898 until 1913.

Methaldone

Methaldone will be available in 50ml (100€) and 100ml (150€).

 

Mat Yudov

Mat Yudov is a chemist, perfumer, and musician. Mat is also a researcher and specialist in the chemistry of aromatic materials. He graduated from Moscow State University "Lomonosov" in 1999. He writes for the popular perfume blog leopoldray.blogspot.com (in Russian).

 



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shayfromisrael
shayfromisrael

Finally I see the face of the one who produced the most wonderful perfume my favorite Neroli Portofino ...

Mar
21
2017
RubyBirdy
RubyBirdy

Bad taste. There's an opioid epidemic killing loads of people and it's not glamorous.

At least "Opium" as a perfume name has historical connotations. This is just...silly and insensitive. You wouldn't name a perfume after a terrorist attack, would you? So why name it after a drug problem that's killing far more people and ruining more lives?

Mar
18
2017
Fragaria
Fragaria

I worked at a pharmacy and noticed a person that picked up methadone quite regularly smelled of a metallic, but pleasant odor. I wonder, can a person taking methadone SMELL a certain way? If so....can this the idea for the fragrance? No need to really answer, just thoughts going through my head.

Mar
18
2017
LilKit101
LilKit101

What a wonderful, informative piece! I love the fact that we are beginning to embrace the modern, refining these complex and unusual scents and blending them to create surprising, if a little bizarre, alternative perfumes.

Mar
18
2017
Playtime
Playtime

Always find metallic notes very interesting. Thank you for this article.

Mar
18
2017
ysatis
ysatis

Blast of information!!!! So cosmic!! As the scent described! Experience should be exciting!! Mat, thanks!

Mar
17
2017

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