Fragrance Reviews New Euphorium Brooklyn Wald EDP

New Euphorium Brooklyn Wald EDP

09/16/16 09:03:30

by: Jodi Battershell

"On a crisp spring morning in a forest of Fir, Pine and Cedar, delicate Artimesia lingers in a sweet breeze. Shafts of sunlight, warm and sensual are defined in the morning fog as it lifts to reveal the intoxicating sweet spice of decay on the forest floor.

Dry birch smoke from a maple sugar shack drifts by. A mighty bear slumbers by a brook. Lay your head down to luxuriate in moss, fresh grass and damp earth. Breathe in the beauty of it and become yourself."

—Christian Rosenkreuz (1855)

One of the first releases from Euphorium Brooklyn, the description of Wald above, by its fictional creator Christian Rosenrkeuz (one of the alter egos of Euphorium Brooklyn founder and perfumer Stephen Dirkes) tells you exactly what you can expect from Wald. Available exclusively from Twisted Lily at this time, Euphorium Brooklyn fragrances channel classic perfumery techniques and timeless ingredients in novel ways that appeal to the modern fragrance aficionado.

The brand's first three scents—Wald, Cilice and Usar—were originally released as oil-based scents, in beautiful glass-stoppered apothecary bottles well suited to the old-timey aesthetic of this house. The house launched its first alcohol-based EDP, Suédois, in July, and the next three releases—Pétales, 100 Tweeds and Chocolatl—were also launched exclusively as alcohol-based scents. As we saw with Wald's companions Cilice and  Usar earlier this year, Euphorium Brooklyn will release an alcohol-based Eau De Parfum of this last original oil-based fragrance in October. (No word yet on whether the oil-based formats will continue to be available, but my intuition says that if you like the oil-based format of any of those original three, you may want to buy it soon.)

A negative image of the Wald perfume bottle being kissed by a woman

Euphorium Brooklyn fragrances list lots of notes and they're complex, but skillfully blended and very wearable. Having tried all of the Euphorium Brooklyn fragrances, I can attest that they are distinctive fragrances, unlike any others I've smelled on the market, but some reference points may be helpful for those who haven't had a chance to experience these scents. If you enjoy base-notes-dominant fragrances like those of Slumberhouse, or dark and brooding fragrances with spicy and resinous vibes like the non-orchid-themed scents of Olympic Orchids, Euphorium Brooklyn is likely a house you'll enjoy. Their scents may skew a bit masculine if you subscribe to traditional gender-based note and fragrance group attributions, though the brand has a lovely (but still a bit dark and earthy) floral that's entirely unisex in Pétales, and of course Chocolatl is a full-on but not overly sweet chocolate gourmand fragrance. 

I recently tried the new EDP of Usar and found the alcohol-based version more subtle than the oil-based scent, with some noticeable tweaks that enhance its appeal and slightly alter the character of the original scent. I just received a sample of Wald alcohol-based EDP and I'm enjoying it very much. Overall, I find the Wald EDP very similar to the original oil-based version, though perfumer Stephen Dirkes explains subtle tweaks make it a little less earthy and smoky, with an enhanced "Artemisia Syrup" accord and a little less spice.

Wald perfumer atomizer in negative Wald perfume atomizer in black and white

If you loved the coniferous opening of the oil, this phase is extended in the alcohol-based EDP version. One of the things that I like best about Wald is that it gives us the whole forest. We get the pinecones, the pine needles, the twigs and branches, as well as the dead leaves, moss, damp vegetation and wet earth of the forest floor. This wonderful olfactory journey from top to bottom is intact in both versions. There's still plenty of smoke in this new version, too, though it takes a little longer to appear. Some notes I jotted down as I tested the new Wald:  "Opening: green, earthy, powdery, touch of cannabis."  Three hours later:  "warm, spicy, noticeable vetiver and smoke." Twelve hours later (yes, it lasts that long and more!): "still spicy, gently sweet, musky/leathery aroma."

As I already mentioned above, the longevity of Wald is outstanding and the sillage is comfortably moderate. Just two spritzes were enough for all-day wear and it was suitable for office or evening. All those woody and spicy notes make this a great scent for fall and the conifer aspects suggest it will be pleasant for winter time, too, imparting a bit of a Christmas tree vibe with the opening.

Wald 30 ml and 50 ml atomizers

 

WALD

FRAGRANCE NOTES:
Fir, Thuja, Cedar, Elemi, Frankincense, Juniper, Artimesia, Cistus, Clove, Nutmeg, Fern, Fresh Grass, Smoke, Honey, Maple Syrup, Moss, Decaying Fruit, Vetiver, Agarwood, Birch Tar, Animal Skin, Castoreum and Damp Earth

 

Wald  is currently available in 15 ml, 30 ml and sample vials (oil format). Beginning in October, the 30 ml and 50 ml alcohol-based EDP version of Wald will be available, along with samples in this format. Euphorium Brooklyn is for sale exclusively at Twisted Lily at this time (with international shipping available), but if you're in New York this week, you can try the entire collection (including the upcoming Wald EDP) at the Tranoï New York perfume show show, September 17-19, at The Tunnel in Chelsea.

Thank you to Euphorium Brooklyn for the opportunity to try the new Wald EDP!

All product images:  Euphorium Brooklyn

 

Jodi Battershell (NebraskaLovesScent or "NLS") is a lifelong Nebraskan who transplanted herself to Philadelphia after a lifetime on the Great Plains. An appreciator of fine fragrances since childhood, she tried her hand at natural perfumery and fragrance-mixing for a number of years, ultimately concluding she was better suited to appreciating the fragrance creations of others. She is pleased to finally be putting her English degree to use as a writer and editor for Fragrantica.com.

 

MEH



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