Art Books Events Overview of New Scents from YS-UZAC

Overview of New Scents from YS-UZAC

04/07/13 13:30:42 (One comment)

by: Sergey Borisov

So, new samples from Esxence 2013 are on my table and I still remember smiley, attentive and hospitable Vera and Vincent (Vera Yeoh and Vincent Micotti), founders of Switzerland-based perfume brand Ys-Uzac, showing the novelties of the House.

Vera and Vincent were recognized for one of the two best fragrances (for Satin Doll) at Esxence by Serguey Borisov. Serguey awarded a beautiful scarf by the Russian artist Irina Feodorova.

I met them a year and a half ago when I tried the scents of Ys-Uzac’s first collection, Chronochromie. Fragrances Lale, Pohadka, Metaboles and Monodie are elegant scents with a hint of craziness, where each bottle is hand-packaged in an extremely touching way. Especially I admired minty-green amber fougère Metaboles and dark tobacco-immortelle Pohadka. Vincent Micotti decided to commit himself to perfumery after a successful career as the cellist of a symphony orchestra, and Vera’s parents even wanted to send her to the Moscow Conservatory (though an unstable political situation in Russia prevented it). For now both use their unique musical experience in perfumery. Vincent creates fragrances and Vera is occupied by design.

Vincent uses unusual natural raw materials (but not totally natural!) to obtain original scents with strong individuality. He compares the perfume creative art with that of a composer—as a result of their creative energy a Miracle can be born, and by combining abstract substances like air vibration and aromatic molecules they can transfuse emotions and touch one’s feelings. At Esxence 2013, the couple presented two scents from their new Beloved collection—Satin Doll and Immortal Beloved. The fragrances are so recent that Vincent had not has enough time to filtrate the concentrate for tester bottles and they showed up with slight turbidity.


Immortal Beloved is the story-scent of Ludwig van Beethoven’s secret passion, expressed in hsi letters. Three love letters to an unknown lady were found in Beethoven’s desk after his death. In this matter there were a lot of speculations, particularly considering that there was neither a date nor a name on these letters. In the first letter Beethoven calls his ladylove, “My Angel, my All;" in the second, “My Most Precious Creation” and finally, in the third, “My Immortal Beloved.”

"Good morning, on July 7
Though still in bed, my thoughts go out to you, my Immortal Beloved, now and then joyfully, Then sadly, waiting to learn whether or not fate will hear us - I can live only wholly with you or not at all . . .  Your love makes me at once the happiest and the unhappiest of men . . . "—Ludwig van Beethoven

In the top notes this dark resinous and sweet scent reminds of aromatic aged rum, with its rich spicy accord recalling Porto oak casks (pipas), old leather and dried fruits. The delightful giddiness of love and the light confusion of having peeped at another person's sentiment. Further, the fragrance recalls old paper or parchment, a dried aromatic velvet sachet and other pretty trifles found in the drawer—here, dry black pepper, dry burgundy rose, immortelle and velvety warm amber-woody note, recalling at the same time Iso E Super and Cashmeran. Animalic cistus and resinous-powdery opopanax sound a long-lasting and voiceless echo. The scent is rather an evening men’s aroma. Even nocturnal! A turned-over night sky bowl inlaid with black velvet and flakes of gold, vintage time-stained rum or cognac, an outmoded embroidered burgundy velvet suit displayed at a museum—that is Immortal Beloved.

The scent’s quintessence: red rose as symbol of love. Dried and practically scentless, but provoking the memories of bygone love with only its image. If looking for some reference points, the first that comes is Nombre Noir, the first Serge Lutens’s fragrance that can be found now only in private collections.

Watch the same-name film starring Gary Oldman or listen to song cycle “To the distant beloved" in order to get an idea of Beethoven’s love and compare it with this intoxicating scent. 


The second fragrance from the new collection, Satin Doll is totally different. It’s a vibrant, alluring, floral feminine scent, named after the famous jazz spot by Duke Elington and Billy Strayhorn, often used as chaser. It went down very well with the audience and Ellington asked Johnny Mercer to make verses for this melody for the inimitable Ella Fitzgerald to perform in the show.  Thereafter this spot was performed by every jazz star.

I consider Satin Doll one of two best scents of Esxence 2013, maybe because of the fact that, contrary to fruitcholi, it’s a pretty example of a modern light floral chypre. It starts freshly and gusty as a flow over orange trees that goes down to the sweet roses, jasmine and tuberose, picking up their odor. Here it meets a noble orris with ionons that stump the floral sweetness. At drydown this floral sweetness is enriched with dark underwood scents with resinous and woody notes: dry chypre patchouli and oak moss notes, and a modern transparent myrrh-and-incense accent.

The most beautiful part of the scent, where orris powder serves as a background to the flowers, is like a cloud on which the bouquet of flowers is being projected. Orris that, if being sniffed separately, recalls for some freshly-sliced carrot or potato and for others a powder cloud, and always brings some nobility into the fragrant composition of leather scents as well as floral ones. For example, practically all Chanel fragrances (No. 19, Cuire de Russie, 28 La Pausa, 1932, as the most spectacular examples) owe to a significant dose of orris for its aristocratic austerity.

Here orris opens with a sweet flower note and then practically disappears in resin, patchouli and oak moss notes—there is no contrast between soil and freshness “orris-patchouli” (as in Iris 39 Le Labo) here.

I wonder what is next for the Beloved collection by Ys-Uzac? It seems we will find out in September, at Florence’s Pitti Fragranze . . . 

Photo of the flacons by Fragrantica


Serguey Borisov

Serguey Borisov has been known in the Internet world of perfume under the nickname moon_fish for more than 10 years. Now he writes about perfumes for and, and contributes on the subject for glossy magazines.





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Ooh! Satin Doll is at the top of my Test List after reading this.

Serguey, I love that you gave out your own awards for your favorite scents at Esxence. That scarf is beautiful! :-) Congrats to Ys Uzac!


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