Niche Perfumery Perfume Renaissance: Alyson Oldoini

Perfume Renaissance: Alyson Oldoini

07/01/14 16:16:12

by: Sergey Borisov

Alyson Oldoini, Italian noblewoman, the founder of the perfume house

This is obvious and there's nothing to argue about: the art of perfume is experiencing a Renaissance now. Before our eyes, a hundred flowers bloom! Or rather, hundreds—a thousand and half of new “flowers” (ie, new perfumes) are blooming each year in hopes of finding their consumers. Lovely and fragrant jus springs out of the perfume fountain, and a “search by country” demonstrates that the U.S., France and Italy are in first place in the new-perfume-house-fountains competition, both newly created and restored vintage.

One of these new perfume houses is the Italian House of Alyson Oldoini, equipped with the Oldoini antique family crest. Its first products after registering the trademark rights were six perfumes created by perfumer Benoist Lapouza of Fragrance Resources—three masculine and three feminine fragrances in sparkling metallic bottles and unabashed luxury coffrets.

I was lucky to try these rare and quite expensive works of perfumery art and industrial design, and I hasten to share my impressions with you.

The three men's fragrances, Marine Vodka, Rhum d'Hiver and Cuir d'Encens, and their names make me think of the Russian cold winter, the tradition of drinking vodka and smoky Russian leather.


Sea Vodka, really? I must try to drop this perfume in a glass of icy vodka. You will not need much perfume here, because it's an eau de parfum. This modern perfume from the aromatic fougère family has a watery and metallic pineapple quality, a descendant of Cool Water Davidoff, with a subtle and barely noticeable oriental accents like Hommage à l`Homme Lalique. This fresh and cool metallic perfume, with warm Rockrose and Iso E Super in the drydown, is the perfect perfume for its name. First cold and ringing, then warming. In summertime it should work fine. The shiny metallic bottle design is totally congruent to the smell inside.

Pineapple, Watermelon, Vodka, Labdanum, Sea Accord.


"Winter Rum" also starts with metallic luster, as a cold and zinging aromatic accord. Here we drink it icy cold, freezing in the icy wilderness or snowy desert. The warming effect starts faster with the sharp rum than with the sea vodka. Perhaps, in the bottle of rum, in addition to some orange peel also swim some cardamom grains, giving a resinous bitterness upon first bite. Immediately the campfire erupts, lively, smelling of resin, smoke and a little leather-boots tar, or burning juniper branches. The evening immediately begins to be weary—and it's not fancy Oriental tales, but a real magic carpet from winter to summer. And then, even more interesting: the featherbed of woody-powdery musks and Iso E Super.

Kumquat, Bergamot, Rum, Cardamom, Nutmeg, Amber, Vetiver.


The perfume and its name don't match. Spicy, sweet, vicious and delicious—how did it happen to be ranked as masculine? As a ladies' man's and Casanova's perfume? Honey and vanilla, soft and insinuating—like a fancy-dressed young man (think of Cristiano Ronaldo from any advertisement) who promises everything to a girl: heaps of gold, flowers and cakes, opulence and fulfillment of every desire possible ... and the oud is not cruel, and the skin is not rough, and the incense is gourmand ... Cuir d'Encens could be found between Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin and Alexandria Oud Stars by Xerjoff, Oriental honey cake, gentle Halva and Turkish Delight.

Pink Pepper, Cinnamon, Oud, Pachouli, Vanilla, Golden Honey, Leather and Resins.

My general impression of the masculine Alyson Oldoini fragrances, looking at the brilliant flacons and their fragrant contents: they could embody some silver prizes at exotic sports competitions from the repertoire of Eurosport 2. Like the Marine Vodka flacon is the plaque for a racing yachts prize, Cuir d'Encens is the plaque for the winner of the culinary confectioners competitions, and Rhum d'Hiver should fit some lumberjacks' rush.

The trio of feminine Alyson Oldoini fragrances is entirely devoted to flowers: modest violet, chic orange flower and gorgeous rose. But as we all know, a woman's choice of favorite flower characterizes her, no less than her Zodiac sign or her hair color! This trio is not flowers for women, and not even fragrances—they are archetypal female characters actually. Gest, Aphrodite and Hera, for example.


On a date in a cafe she will choose neither a cup of coffee, nor a cup of tea. She will choose tisane, some anis or other herbal infusion, with a tender weak smell. Out of dessert options Sachertorte, Napoleon and apple pie with ice cream, she instead chooses a small violet macaron decorated with fresh raspberries and blackberries. She likes her clothes in soft, blurry watercolor shades. All her fragrances are tender, weightless and easygoing; and this is one of her favorites—hard to understand!—whether it's cool or warm? The fragrance opens with a sweet raspberry tone upon a green cucumber-powdery scent of violet leaves. Then it goes slightly warmer, and the violets give powder, cool and sweet. Amazing how this nebulous girl shows her iron character! And an even more surprising fact (you would not believe this!) is that her close relatives are The Beast, Fahrenheit Christian Dior, and Madame Scarlet Lipstick, Rossetto №14 Prada.

Violet, Anise, Heliotrope, Raspberry, Woody Notes.


She should fascinate everyone. This is her life mission and everyday task. She will laugh loud and leaping, calling attention to herself, her beautiful smile and intrinsic cheerfulness. She wears all her best items in once. She has nothing to be ashamed of—it's her natural beauty and she will only accentuate her best features by piquant spicy accents. She will insert a remark about any other girl whom she considers a rival (and she believes that all girls are her opponents).

It's bright orange blossom, sweet and gorgeous, fully equipped for a wedding of her best friend (who's is the sexiest girl of the wedding? Of course, the bridesmaid!) This brunette will catch a bridal bouquet of lillies of the valley, she will dance with everyone, she will tell a spicy story about the newlyweds! Ah, what a woman! Try to keep her around and you will need handcuffs, at least! A sweet floriental perfume of orange blossoms with jasmine and powdery and spicy notes added, it shows some sultry gourmet accent, but overall it should be the sexiest flower perfume. 

Tangerine, Fleur d'orange, Clove, Ginger, Indian Spices.


The calm classic beauty of roses and orris. Cool and feminine, an almost imperceptible scent of powder with subtle rose and berry accents. The smell of your loved one—mother, wife, sister—who remains invisible because she is the most familiar and dearest in the world. This is an adult woman who knows her own strengths and weaknesses, and we love her most of all. And this is a young girl who has put on her mother's fragrance for the first time, for its funny berry-like beauty, and has discovered the abyss of other benefits in it (while other girls found it simply boring). And this kind of worldly female wisdom, which sooner or later comes to each of those who know the right time to keep silent.

Rose, Iris, Powdery notes, Flower notes, Musk.

Photo of the house founder and flacons: Alyson Oldoini


Serguey Borisov

Serguey Borisov has been known in the Internet world of perfume under the nickname moon_fish for more than 10 years. Now he writes about perfumes for and, and contributes on the subject for glossy magazines.





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