Vintages Personal Tales of a Vintage Collector III - Fulfilling my Teenage Cravings

Personal Tales of a Vintage Collector III - Fulfilling my Teenage Cravings

03/10/16 04:25:45 (20 comments)

by: Miguel Matos

Thank you for following my Personal Tales of a Vintage Collector. In the PREVIOUS ARTICLE I decided to share with you how I finally got the perfumes I wanted to have when I was a teenager. The tale continues here and we are already in the 1990's.

By the way, one of the perfumes I mentioned in the previous article was Avon Tasha. This is a particular smell from my childhood and teen years since at least my grandmother, mother, ans especially my favourite aunt wore it. It belongs to the same family of Rive Gauche and Calandre and they are part of the reason I love aldehydes. So here is the bottle I found a couple of weeks ago:

Deep Forest's 1994 album was a revelation for me (left)

Avon Tasha (1979)

I found this in a flea market by the beach and it only cost 1 euro for a 50ml bottle, almost full. The scent is in perfect condition. I really dislike the tacky bottle, but it is a good example of the crazy bottle collections Avon makes. The perfume is a floral aldehyde with prominent rose and a motherly smell, in my opinion. I do not actually wear it but it represents a time of my life, the perfume awakening and a smell from the family (even though I am not a family guy). I wanted to have it as a reference in my collection but I confess this and Tabu are the only perfumes that I can categorize as "old lady".

Enigma was everywhere in Europe and I was a huge fan. Snap's song Rhythm is a Dancer is still one of my favourite things of the dance music age.

But back to the time table of perfume cravings: the 90's. Even though I always liked my orientals, I confess I had a crush for a couple of aquatics. Well, at the time they were all the rage. And of course, one can never fully escape the trend... 

How can anyone remember the 90's without mentioning the supermodel phenomenon?

Guy Laroche Horizon (1993)

Well, I can only say that I had very different tastes when I was young. An aquatic? Yes, Guy Laroche's Horizon was another of my teen wishes. This one wasn't such a crush, it was more of an interest. I always loved the bottle, deep blue with textures. And the scent was actually quite original within the aromatic green category. The mix of green prominent features with aldehydes and an aquatic character felt intriguing and comfortable at the time. There is a bitter edge that makes it unique. It seems I wasn't always an aquatic hater. In fact I still find Horizon quite original and strange. I am happy to have found it in another old perfumery, very cheap. And it isn't so hard to find, still. I reccomend this gem to everyone who seeks a fresh male perfume with a twist.

Givenchy Fleur d'Interdit (1994)

What a strange perfume, and what a strange thing for me to enjoy. But I do enjoy it very much.I remember liking it when it came out. This watermelon floral aquatic has everything to go wrong but it's just amazing. The strange composition was not a commercial success, but that just proves that I am a terrible advisor and could never have my own brand, since I always like the underdogs. I wear it now in warm days since I found it at the flea market for just 2 euros!

Givenchy Insensé Ultramarine (1995)

In my regular visit to the old perfume shops in Lisbon I stumbled with another oddity from the great time of quircky scents. Insensé Ultramarine was a flanker of Givenchy's Insensé and it had a spicy take on marine which I always liked. Discontinued too soon, it only arrived to my perfume wardrobe last year. I remember that a colleague from school always wore this and even though I thought the guy was totally obnoxious, he smelled good in it. And now I do too when I wear it after the gym. I find some similarities between Insensé Ultramarine and Bentley Azure.

Madonna in the 90's: my Icon

Guerlain Habit Rouge (1965 but I first wore it in 1996)

To me Habit Rouge smells of cold mornings and suburban trains. This was the perfume I wore during the first year of university. I had to wake up at 5.30am to have classes at 8 and I felt miserable. I always hated to wake up early, I still do. This was maybe too mature for me at the time and the 90's formulation was a lot stronger than it is now, so I remember choking all the way to the train. Recently I made a swap to get it, because I felt like revisiting it. It's not a fulfillment of an unsatisfied craving in this case, but a throwback to the student times. And this modern version of Habit Rouge (it's a limited edition bottle) is a bit calmer which makes me wear it without choking. Or maybe I got more and more addicted to hardcore fragrances and this seems tame comparing to other scents in my collection. Either way, it's a gorgeous masculine oriental full of vanilla, citrus and leather explosions.

I used to be obsessed about Icelandic singer Björk. Not anymore.

Le Feu d'Issey (1998)

This is a work of art that I always felt like overripe fruit (persimon to my nose) with rose jam, milk and sandalwood. A friend of mine wore it in the summer in 1999 and to me it always reminds me of hot weather. I love it and had to buy it when I saw it online for just 25 euros. I can't wear it but I do love to take a sniff every now and then.

 

(Left: Trip Hop sorcerers Portishead. One of the best bands of the late 1990's)

Now that I finally closed this issue of teenage perfume lust I would love to read your stories. Do you search for long desired bottles that you couldn't buy when you were younger?

Personal Tales of a Vintage Collector

Episode 1 - Episode 2 - Episode 3

 

Miguel Matos

Miguel is a Portuguese journalist obsessed with art and perfume. Miguel likes to see himself as a fragrance curator, investigating the possibilities of perfume as contemporary art in exhibitions and other multimedia projects. He directs his own cultural magazine, Umbigo, besides contributing with texts for museums and art galleries. He is a perfume collector and specializes in vintage perfumery, organizing monthly talks called Vintage Perfume Sniffing in Lisbon. He is a Fragrantica writer, translator and editor of Fragrantica.com.br.

 



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smellysmellerson
smellysmellerson

le feu for 25 euros!!!!

Dec
18
2016
carneiro7
carneiro7

Thank you Miguel for this amazing trip to the 90's! Glad to to see you refer two of my absolute favourites from that period: Insensé and Le Feu D'Issey. Both were groundbreaking, beautiful and unique. Both have started my passion for the perfume universe.

Dec
17
2016
shanon206
shanon206

quel merveilleux voyage dans ces souvenirs des années 90'.

J'ai beaucoup aimé Gabriela Sabatini, Samsara.

Vogue évidemment, un magazine que j'aime depuis tellement d'années...

Dec
17
2016
PerfumeEmpress
PerfumeEmpress

I absolutely ADORED Le Feu d'Issey. So different. So bold. So irreverent.

Please bring it back (un-reformulated). Please? Pretty please?

May
03
2016
MissGirly87
MissGirly87

Miguel, you may be "a terrible advisor and could never have my own brand," in your own words, however you are an incredible writer with wonderful taste and I have loved reading this series!! We want more!

Mar
17
2016
Jyrhara
Jyrhara

As a teenager I didn't have any knowledge about perfumes and didn't have money to buy them anyway, but still scents from that time find me nowadays. Here's an example: a few months ago I blind bought on eBay a bottle of Guerlain Vol de Nuit, having become interested in vintage perfumes and no way of trying them. As I sprayed it on my wrist I found out that it reminds me of the Impulse deodorant my grandmother used to wear in the nineties (in a black bottle). Since I've lost her just a few years ago, I love smelling Vol de Nuit and being reminded of her every time I do...

Mar
17
2016
cherryglass
cherryglass

Thank you for this great article Miguel! What a joy it was to read! My perfume interest started in the 90's when I was enchanted by the magazine ads that came my way from my mom's glamorous friend. Occasionally I got to steal spritzes from my mom or smell my aunts' collections. I didn't dream of buying any of the fragrances then, but I could never let go of the idea of owning those bottles. So whenever I see something that reminds me of my teenage curiosity I feel powerless. Just recently I was able to repurchase a 50ml bottle of the perfume gifted to me on my 18th birthday - Ralph Lauren Polo Sport Woman. The juice has turned yellow, as it should have, but the memories came back rushing in. I stopped wearing it when my classmate called it the worst smelling thing in the world. I am glad I have it now and also glad not to care what people think of it anymore.

Also, added recently is a pre-reformulated bottle of Dune which was the epitome of womanly chic to a 14 year old me. Gap Heaven and 5th Avenue joined the ranks, and I've decided not to be without Angel and CKOne a few years ago. It brings me joy, not nostalgia, but a feeling that anything is possible just like when I was a teenager. Now, if only I can score pre-reformulated Dolce Vita and Obsession (my first fragrance) or finally get my hands on Samsara which I thought was magical that would be a good hunting adventure. It's like collecting sparkling jewels of the past. This will never stop, I'm afraid.

Mar
11
2016
interdite
interdite

After a long love story with vintage, niche and indie scents, I've come back to 90s scents as I feel very nostalgic about this decade. Those are the years I miss the most about my life and I'm enjoying these again:

L'eau D'Issey edt
Salvadore Dali Laguna
Gres Cabotine edt and parfum
Kenzo Ete
Coty Ici
And my old Yves Rochers, Ming Shu, Nature, etc.

Mar
11
2016
Eos
Eos

@Miguel, I am truly honored! Thank you :)

Mar
11
2016
veda
veda

My teens were Nirvana, Brit-pop, L'eau par Kenzo both for women and men, Joop by Joop, the pink juice yes, that bomb smell and Kenzo pour homme.I forgot to mentioned: Red Jeans by Versace, Amarige & Ysatis de Givenchy, Cool Water by Davidoff for men, White Musk, Juba, Ananya, Leap from The Body Shop, Laguna by Salvador Dali and many more.I'm into fragrances since I was a child.Of course I still have them:D
Thank you Miguel for your article...violently happy indeed!!...ah, memories...♥

Mar
11
2016
migueldematos
migueldematos

@Eos I am wearing Le Feu now in your honour :)

Mar
11
2016
mypersonalharmonics
mypersonalharmonics

This is crazy Miguel. I wish there were flea markets where one could get 90's treasures for 5 euros here in Greece...

Even obscure little perfume shops rarely have old bottles although I'm always keeping an open eye as you suggest.

The 90's were great and one can relate with your articles, that's for sure. (Not to mention the music picks, yes, that was me too. Half ultra pop half very much into trip hop) Yes, I CAN RELATE. Oh, my. I wish I could go back there, but being 35 as I am now...

Mar
11
2016
Eos
Eos

Wonderful article, Miguel! Unfortunately all I can think is that you got Le Feu d'Issey for 25 Euros and you don't even really wear it? :( I'm so beyond jealous.

Mar
10
2016
Angela Agiannidou
Angela Agiannidou

Ah, Miguel, reading about your teenage years is like delving into part of your personality and a world where most of us have been... As for the 'underdog' give it time, when we all get tired of perfume trends and fads the quirky, intelligent underdog will come to rescue. As a student in Greece in the nineties I loved and wanted Poeme. It was new at the time and all the rage and Dolce Vita. I was part time working and my first salary went on clothes and a beautiful bottle of Poeme. I had already been given as a present from my mother a bottle of Anais but found it too girly and asked for L air du Temps. That was just before University. My parents sent me to a rather strict French Catholic semi boarding school run by Friars and other than a uniform and good personal hygiene there was no room for perfume indulgence ( I was a pain on the proverbial too, I think the Friars only tolerated me because I was good academically, or saw me as a way of Penance....). I still have the original bottles of Tresor, Poeme and Dolce Vita, but have no heart of buying them again as I heard they reformulated them. Every now and then I have a sniff and become a student again, Devil may care and care free. What I want to buy is my beloved dads perfumes from the Seventies. I lost him young and would love to get a whiff of his Paco Rabanne again. Thank you Miguel for this wonderful trip down memory lane! (BTW, loved Enigma too, my fave was Sadeness.)

Mar
10
2016
nexangelus
nexangelus

Hey! Those album covers/musicians (all of them) were in my music collection too, still have 'em...*blushes*

Great nostalgic article Miguel. I was not into perfume properly until my twenties. My first perfume as a teen was Giorgio Beverly Hills and my bestie's was Cacherel Anais Anais (I have this now, but don't have the Giorgio) I do have a half-used bottle of Le Feu d'Issey body lotion (it is like a gel/oil) that I use to layer under winter/spicy scents. It is gorgeous! I am now hankering after some Habit Rouge (I tested it a while back and loved it)

Mar
10
2016
alchimia72
alchimia72

I have an almost full bottle of fleur d'interdit. I used it 18 years ago. Two years ago I found a bottle of this pink juice and I bought it. My little treasure. Unfortunately I can't find a La feau d'Issey bottle. Discontinued and hard to find everywhere.

Mar
10
2016
mapache
mapache

Great article, as always. Keep them coming !!
My first real memory of fragrance started with my Aunt Elsa, who wore Stradavari by Prince Matchabelli. I have been craving to sniff this once again.I looked on-line and it is $$$$$$$ expensive...long discontinued. I will keep searching !! White Linen, my mother's scent, I still keep a bottle....just to sniff now and then,and she also wore Aliage by Estee Lauder...which ro me is a sister of Aramis Devin...another teen-age crave. I have both of those also. Quartz, by Molyneaux was another sniff I "stole" off a friend's Mothers dresser ...lol...I was intrigued by the bottle...then I fell in love with the scent...bought it years later..and recently I find the craving to buy it again. I find that same craving coming about Chanel Cristalle...another teen-age memory. And I must mention 2 more...my favorites of all-time..hands down...Jean Patou Pour Homme and the original Nino Cerutti...long-gone...but forever and ever in my scent-memories.

Mar
10
2016
scented2014
scented2014

i have a vintage mini of Fleur d'Interdit in perfume concentration-i'm really enchanted by it!

Mar
10
2016
smellagent
smellagent

great article and for some reason I love thinking about the perfumes of my youth too. I keep youth dew around for the same reason you keep Tasha. My grandmother wore it forever and having it is a little like keeping a piece of her. I usually put a little on a paper towel and keep it with me or at night i'll put a little on my hand and it does the trick. I'm forever on the lookout for a bottle of perfume that I don't know the name of but I would know it if I saw it. It was purple/blue and not expensive and I bought it between 1995 and 1998. It is what keeps me up at night trolling fleabay. Anyway, thanks for the trip down memory lane.

Mar
10
2016
xoxoMyke
xoxoMyke

Thanks for bringing Insense Ultramarine back to my attention!

Mar
10
2016

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