Scented Snippets Scented Snippets New Fragrance Review: DSH Perfumes Fleuriste / It's All Too Beautiful

Scented Snippets New Fragrance Review: DSH Perfumes Fleuriste / It's All Too Beautiful

06/09/15 17:23:28 (4 comments)

by: Ida Meister

Welcome to my world, my dears ;-)

Synaesthesia is a great deal more prevalent than many would have us think—I'm fairly certain of it.

Sniffing yesterday with wonderful friends whom I too rarely see: “Smell this! It smells blue,” says one. Associating odor with prose, verse, melody, color, imagery. Perhaps the reality is that we may not be aware of it.

I am an immense carnation fan, but I'm not indiscriminate; I'm not a fan of the tame, attenuated, soapy, or watered-down. Give me spicy, smoky, fiercely lurid carnations. Decadent, despondent carnations. Rosy-fingers-of-the-dawn carnations. Freshly-cut, photorealistic flowers.

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz summons those spirited blooms in the florist's window with her latest floral oeuvre, appropriately named Fleuriste—which I purchased unsniffed, in both eau de parfum and organic shea butter body cream.

Her desire was to capture the fullness of experience:


“Fresh and cool, dewy and spicy; Fleuriste is a scent of green rose leaves and chilled carnations straight from the florist’s fridge. A lovely spray of Spring flowers and cuttings from the florist’s workshop color the background effect of Fleuriste adding fullness and warmth to the drydown as it wears.”— DSH Perfumes

 

Sometimes, teasing out notes can be a bit tricky.

Notes: bergamot, carnation absolute, leafy green accord, grandiflorum jasmine, ambergris

[There may be spice notes as well, among other materials]

I'm loving Fleuriste, because it's classically spicy yet fresh; I'm sensing an homage to the brilliant discontinued Floris Malmaison [beloved of Oscar Wilde!] which is the touchpoint for a horde of carnation admirers. An abundance of topnotch components is readily apparent to the greedy, grateful nose—an invitation to the journey which follows, since Fleuriste will lead me down the garden path and I'll follow willingly.

[I'm glad that I purchased the body cream because it anchors the scent while underpinning it with a luxuriously velvety texture. Pure unadulterated hedonism.]

I search for my flacon of vintage Caron Bellodgia extrait for reference: a very different experience altogether.

Bellodgia is the darker sister: denser, moodier, deeply rosier, mossier. She is the wintry Persephone to Fleuriste's child of nature, heedlessly picking flowers in the meadow. If I hadn't smelled them side by side, that might have gone unnoticed. It helps me appreciate how expansive Fleuriste is, with its sheerer, greener open quality which retains the lovely clove-y spiciness I relish in carnation fragrances.

At the time Dawn released this, Fleuriste was intended as a new vernal perfume, particularly timely as American Mother's Day observance followed on its heels. I have no argument with that. I feel, though, that it is a 'seasonless' perfume, one which is suitable for men and women whenever they feel its gravitational pull. It is neither too rich/heavy/spicy for warmer climes, nor is it a lightweight to be spritzed with wanton abandon [it would have to be an eau de toilette for that].

Fleuriste stands firmly in its own category: it needn't compete with the great classics of yore, but there are certainly echoes of them in its wake. With its gentle, breezy nature, Fleuriste is a welcome addition to my ever-burgeoning family of carnation fragrances. It is generous yet gentle, airy but substantive. In short, it reminds me of its perfumer [who feels like, and is a member of our family, in the larger sense]. A spicy, sensitive soulful intelligence.

The first breath you take in the florist's shop will confirm that. <3

Florist Fridge Image: Walk-In Cooler Central Market.

Ida Meister (chayaruchama) has been an avid collector and sniffeuse for over 40 years. She adores consulting and collaborating with niche, budding and independent perfumers. Her hypervigilant nose has been of great help in her profession as a neuroscience/ oncology nurse, where she often smells fear, suffering, stress, and can identify most micro-organisms, medications, stages of disease, and has written about the amygdala. As a Senior and Natural Perfumery Editor, Ida has participated in many blog events with natural and mixed media perfumers and other writers. She has also been a teacher, translator, opera singer, dancer and caterer.

 



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PerfumeEmpress
PerfumeEmpress

I adore Oscar Wilde (got all his works). However - and this is strictly my personal view - I find it a bit hard to associate this green, fresh scent with a confirmed decadent hedonist like OW. Caron's Bellogia, yes. But this one sounds a bit too, I don't know, too innocent for the creator of Dorian Grey.

As I said, just my personal opinion.

Jun
11
2015
drouhin
drouhin

Just ordered a sample today! Dawn has a special talent for florals. I'm sure I'll love it.

Jun
10
2015
chayaruchama
chayaruchama

Shoshana, how lovely !
Thank you for your poem !!!

Jun
10
2015
physalis
physalis

Ida,

This poem:

The sighs of the trees,
The smell of the leaves,
The chirps of the birds,
Become me...

The gentleness of the wind,
The fragrance of the flowers,
The radiance of the colors,
Become me...

by Shoshana


It is all too beautiful!!
Walk in beauty!

Jun
09
2015

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