Fragrance News This Week in Fragrance: Guerlain Returns, Handmade Fragrance and Morticia's Stench

This Week in Fragrance: Guerlain Returns, Handmade Fragrance and Morticia's Stench

05/18/16 13:46:39 (15 comments)

by: Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison


Jen King of LuxuryDaily.com reports that Jean-Paul Guerlain is making a return to the perfumery world at the age of 80 with a new fragrance collection!

Mr. Guerlain’s first range with My Exclusive Collection will consist of 10 fragrance [sic], split evenly between men’s and women’s scents. Expected for the first quarter of 2017, the first two scents to be launched under the partnership will be for men and women. Details of the fragrances are limited at this time, but samples will be available beginning this September. My Exclusive Collection has shared that the upcoming scents will have oriental notes, a new direction for the sector.

It's not every day that a famous nose as well-loved as Guerlain returns to the biz. Are you excited as I am?

Image of Jean-Paul Guerlain from laregledujeu.org

So what is it that makes handmade products so special? What makes people seek out products from handmade businesses over big name brands mass produced and sold using truly mind-blowing marketing budgets? One reason is the extra time, care and quality these handmade business owners put into their products. Look at the growing number of handmade perfume businesses out there. A growing number of people are creating beautiful artisan perfumes that are made entirely of essences extracted directly from plant materials. These ingredients include precious oils taken from delicate neroli flowers and rose petals, along with a few extracts that will surprise you — like coffee beans, butter, and even beeswax! Here’s how some better known handmade perfume makers distinguish themselves, their brands and their products from all others.

What do you think of her list? Who would you add?

Ian Johnston at Alternet.org reveals what makes the sea smell:

Scientists have discovered just how the “smell of the sea” is produced by a tiny marine organism that is playing a major role in the fight against climate change. The microbes are so small that about half a million of them can be found in just a teaspoon of seawater. But they are also so numerous – they are among the most abundant forms of life – that they appear [to] have a significant effect on the Earth’s climate.

Last week it was old books, this week it's the sea. What scent would you most like to be figured out and harnessed in a new fragrance?

Meanwhile, in Texas, a rare flower named "Morticia" bloomed this past weekend. Catherine Cabral-Isabedra for TechTimes.com reports:

During its bloom, the corpse flower releases a signature morbid stench, similar to that of a rotting flesh of corpse. The odor attracts pollinators such as sweat flies and carrion beetles. It holds the title for being the biggest flowering plant in the world, with some plants reaching more than 10 feet tall. The corpse flower is also the largest group of flowers that has both female and male flowers.

And if you think that is strange and intriguing, reade more on the flower here at Wikipedia and giggle when you read what the Latin name translates to in English! What's the strangest aroma you've ever encountered from a plant or flower?

During its bloom, the corpse flower releases a signature morbid stench, similar to that of a rotting flesh of corpse. The odor attracts pollinators such as sweat flies and carrion beetles. It holds the title for being the biggest flowering plant in the world, with some plants reaching more than 10 feet tall. The corpse flower is also the largest group of flowers that has both female and male flowers. - See more at: http://www.techtimes.com/articles/158598/20160516/giant-corpse-flower-morticia-blooms-again-to-release-signature-stench.htm#sthash.RNRzZAss.dpuf

Image of "Morticia" from TechTimes.com

Sandra Low of Star2.com offers an intriguing interview with perfumer Loc Dong

“Growing up with my grandfather in Saigon is a big part of who I am today. He taught me to harvest and sort plants by their smell, and I assisted him in preparing remedies for the villagers,” says Dong, an American who shuttles between Paris and New York. My early experiences of providing well-being for others or helping people feel happier are the foundation for my work as a perfumer. And that summer job reminded me of the joy of helping people,” he says in an exclusive interview.

No matter how many times I talk with perfumers about their inspirations, childhood, home and family are repeatedly mentioned. And why shouldn't they, life experience is often the inspiration for many artists! What favorite memories would most influence your own style of perfumery?

Image of Loc Dong from valeskasvlog.com

Have interesting fragrance news for us to share?
Leave a comment in the new Fragrance News thread HERE.

 

 

Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

Managing Editor & Columnist

Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison’s journalism in the fragrance industry has appeared in international print and online publications such as PlayboyMen’s JournalMen’s Health and the New York Times. Marlen also works as a graduate professor, thesis advisor and faculty supervisor for MA programs in TESOL, Education, Writing and Literature. Learn more about Marlen by visiting  www.MarlenHarrison.com.

 

 



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Potent2020
Potent2020

Where can I get great oils for handmade fragrance?

May
26
2016
matty64
matty64

How ironically this article mentions the new Guerlains and stench in the same title. Coincidence, yeah probably so.

May
21
2016
Cybernoir
Cybernoir

thanks sorceressofthedark, this was news to me, in many ways, a good indication of how out of touch I am.

May
21
2016
MoonSparrow
MoonSparrow

*Morticia* not Mortician! Pesky autocorrect!

May
20
2016
MoonSparrow
MoonSparrow

The Atlanta Botanical Gardens had a Mortician once. The newspaper posted the day & time it was due to bloom and thus release its unusual scent. A hundred or so people stood around all day & waited. It bloo.Ed 3 days later so no one got to witness the spectacle!
I am happy for some new Guerlains and will absolutely try them when they are available.

May
20
2016
Konga5000
Konga5000

P.S. the one smell that I love- that has NEVER been duplicated is this:
the scent of when you first enter a farmer's market with all the fruits and vegetables mixed together with that light moisture in the air. There are plenty of vegetal and fruit smells out there--none of them come close.

May
20
2016
Konga5000
Konga5000

That plant creeps me out. I have a fear of large over-sized plants.

Note to J.P. Guerlain: please add LOTS of longevity and projection to whatever you create!
Sorry to say I have half a dozen Guerlains that I love madly but longevity is about 45 minutes or LESS on each of them.

May
20
2016
SorceressOfTheDark
SorceressOfTheDark

@Cybernoir: There is another article about Mr. Guerlain on F titled "My Exclusive Collection: Sometimes They Come Back" or you can google "what did Jean-Paul Guerlain say that was racist" that will explain why his family decided to turn their backs on him. Then you can make your decision concerning his comments and the aftermath of his court battle concerning his words.

May
20
2016
verdigris
verdigris

So many interesting questions you ask in response to your challenging article!

I am delighted that at age 80 Mr. Guerlain's mind and nose are still actively creating and able to return to the market with new offerings. Whether these offerings will be to my liking remains to be seen but prior to sampling his new creations I will try not to be influenced by his past controversial comments. After all, America is currently in the process of choosing a President and I am awash-drowning perhaps-in comments by a candidate who has said far worse than Mr. Guerlain ever did and will no doubt continue.

Which brings me to the subject of dirt, or more accurately, soil. As a gardener I am smitten by the earthy smell of rich, dark, life-sustaining soil. This is a scent I wish scientists would unravel. And then perhaps they could put it in some sort of medicament so that when I am too old to go outside and enjoy the garden at least I can ingest some and remember from whence my earlier joys came.

If I were so fortunate as to be a perfumer my inspiration would come entirely from the natural world: soil, roots, leaves, flowers -even the stinky ones- rain, hot rocks sizzling in the heated moisture, resins released in the cool of the evening. Our memories and where we currently live on the earth -creating more memories- are the raw materials of the best scents.

Cheers!

May
19
2016
lemonzest
lemonzest

Scents I would like to see isolated: fresh dirt, puppy smell, corn plants, hot sidewalks when it first starts to rain, sassafras wood/roots.

Weird smells: skunk cabbage, rose glorybower leaves, vitex blooms.

May
19
2016
NebraskaLovesScent
NebraskaLovesScent

My gardening friend had something called a voodoo lily that she accurately described as having the aroma of a cat's litterbox in which the cat has just made a fresh deposit... ;-)

May
19
2016
Cybernoir
Cybernoir

I am not sure what to make of this. I take any "journalism" from the Luxury daily with a pillar of salt, so it is hard to discern btw the press and the perfumer, but... luxe and ultra-luxe?

In any case, whenever an old family run business kicks the patriarch to the curb it is disturbing to me.

May
19
2016
SumoTigerCat
SumoTigerCat

Yay for new Guerlains done by Jean-Paul Guerlain!
My City's Conservatory has a "Corpse Flower" plant as an exhibit. Luckily, I've not been around it when it is blooming. It is quite the impressive botanical specimen, very exotic and large!

May
19
2016
Elena Vosnaki
Elena Vosnaki

"My Exclusive Collection has shared that the upcoming scents will have oriental notes, a new direction for the sector."
One gets to wonder which sector exactly they're referring to, with this rather embarrassing statement!

May
19
2016
kinetisphere
kinetisphere

I think i saw that flower when i was in d.c.

In a botanical garden or maybe it was the d.c. zoo.

Whatever the case. It's massive and stinks like swampbutt!

May
18
2016

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