Fragrance News This Week in Fragrance: Misconceptions, Trends and Technology

This Week in Fragrance: Misconceptions, Trends and Technology

05/17/17 08:26:48 (15 comments)

by: Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

 

Veronique Greenwood of The Atlantic asks, "Can an Archive Capture the Scents of an Entire Era?"

Not very much of an effort has been made to preserve the smells that people care about. Bembibre, a graduate student at University College London’s Institute of Sustainable Heritage, is trying to understand which scents are worth hanging on to, what they consist of, on a molecular level, and how to save them. Her aim is to allow others, perhaps many generations down the line, to smell them, too, and understand why they mattered so much. READ MORE...

Fragrantica recently published a fascinating article, "Strange Smells We Love", and I'd wager that the authors would wish to preserve many of these aromas. But which aromas do you feel will best help a future generation understand a previous era?

Man smelling his sandwich

Business Insider takes a look (with the help of some familiar folks in the biz) at some of the biggest misconceptions about fragrance"

Fragrance is incredibly misunderstood. Even the name confuses people. Many think cologne is for men and perfume is for women, but those terms merely refer to the concentration of scent oils in the fragrance, which is itself the basic, gender-neutral term. There are many other misconceptions, so we decided, with the help of fragrance expert Marlen Harrison, Art of Manliness, and Fragrance.net, to bust as many as we could with helpful graphics. Go forth and smell better. READ MORE...

Did we get these right? Any other big misconceptions about fragrance that you would add?

Woman spraying fragrance

Andrew Spena at Mic.com was invited to International Flavors & Fragrance's New Jersey greenhouses to learn more about how scientists capture the aroma of plants and flowers:

IFF recently opened the doors of its greenhouse to Mic for a tour [see image below, courtesy of Axe], walking us through the surprisingly sustainable way the company takes ingredients from stem to spray bottle. IFF houses over 5,000 square feet of greenhouse where researchers have been capturing, analyzing and reproducing natural scents — without harming the living source materials — since 1985. The fragrances that originate in IFF's labs may end up in everything from your laundry detergent to your shaving cream, but they start in the soil. READ MORE...

The article goes on to showcase headspace technology and offers insight from fragrance rock star Anne Gottlieb. Personally, I'm a huge fan of Lantana blossoms and would love to find a fragrance that resembles their beautiful aroma. Which plants or blossoms would you wish IFF and their modern technology to replicate for a fragrance that isn't already on the market?

IFF greenhouses

Morgan Kirkwood at Hello Magazine lists 5 aromas as the newest fragrance trends this spring:

Nothing can quite lift your mood as quickly as a fresh new scent. With spring upon us, it might be the perfect time to explore a new fragrance and reboot your point of view. These five notes seem to be capable of doing just that—they’ve not only grabbed our attention this season, but are obviously playing favourites with perfumers across the globe. You may not have heard of them yet, but we’re willing to bet they’ll be making an appearance on your vanity sooner than later. The five hottest fragrance notes for spring: Orris, Ocean Spray, Tea, Confections and Galbanum. READ MORE...

Actually, I wouldn't mind a scent that had all five of those notes in it, lol. What are some of your favorites from these currently trending fragrance notes?

Waves

Pop Sugar profiles a fragrance brand loved by folks such as JFK, Audrey Hepburn and Kate Middleton that seems to go largely unnoticed. Emily Orofino has the scoop:

I love a good secret, but I find beauty secrets particularly invigorating. Celebrity makeup preferences divulged by artists, intel on undetectable lash extensions, and A-list-approved dermatologist recommendations are all facts that I collect and hoard like a magpie. That's why I was completely bowled over when I discovered iconic fragrance brand Krigler — how had I never heard of it before? READ MORE...

I don't think I've ever experienced a Krigler scent, have you? What other brands do you feel fly under the radar yet deserve more attention?

Krigler Oud for Highness

 

Image of the author

Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

Managing Editor & Columnist

Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison’s journalism in the fragrance industry has appeared in international print and online publications such as PlayboyMen’s JournalMen’s Health and the New York Times. Marlen is also a regular contributor to BeautyAlmanac.com and works as a graduate professor, thesis advisor and faculty supervisor for MA programs in TESOL, Education, Writing and Literature. Learn more about Marlen by visiting:  www.MarlenHarrison.com.

 



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kbord777
kbord777

Petunia Blossoms ... I make a point to plant petunia's each year, just to smell their lovely aroma.

May
21
2017
vrosej10
vrosej10

Lomandra Longifolia. It's a native Australian rush and it has the most divinely lovely scented flower a little like tuberose.

May
19
2017
Calvini
Calvini

Thanks for introducing Krigler! They have a store in Beverly Hills too!! The samples are $19-25 (each) btw... In reality the brand is not more expensive than other luxury brands such as Kilian, Clive, and Roja, especially for $100-150 more you can get twice the size (100 ml).

May
18
2017
Calvini
Calvini

One misconception I came across while shopping for essential oils is that guaiacwood came from palo santo... They're from different genus, but yes they're both from South America and may have both been called "sacred wood" but still not the same. Same thing with styrax (from the Liquidamber genus), which has nothing to do with Styrax benzoin. Lastly, when people talk about birch tar, they simply refer to "birch" (I used to do the same), but that BBQ smoky leather tanning aroma is not how the wood smells--it's from the tar, the end product of dry distilling the wood (which essentially burns everything to ash).

May
18
2017
Vanessa Dunlap
Vanessa Dunlap

Has the hoya flower (purple blossoms) been captured/replicated yet, for fragrances?

May
18
2017
johngreenink
johngreenink

Krigler has some absolute gems. Their Good Fir is unmatched as a pine/fir perfume. Nothing like it in the world. But, indeed, their scents are extremely pricey. The best bet is to visit their shop in New York at the Plaza if you can and sample. What I like about them is that they're not trying to take over the world, just cater to a small corner of the market and leave it at that. It's an interesting approach, and in some ways keeps them safe to their small(er) ambitions.

May
18
2017
Bigsly
Bigsly

Big misconceptions? There seem to be ones about fragrances becoming much more powerful after a couple of months and half an ounce or so is used (in a 100 ml bottle). That there would have to be a whole lot of chemical reactions AND those reactions would involve keeping the scent the same but making it much stronger, and that this is not possible (in a sealed spray bottle containing the usual fragrance ingredients) doesn't seem to cross the minds of those making such claims!

May
17
2017
danieq
danieq

I was just looking for notes of freshly hulled Pecan meats. In general, I feel nuts are underutilized in fragrance. Hazelnut, pistachio, walnut, pecan, brazil nuts.

May
17
2017
a-z 0-9
a-z 0-9

I have two Krigler bottles,Oud For Highness 75 and Lovely Patchouli 55.Both have excellent silage and longevity.To me price is not an issue if you really love a fragrance.Their perfumes have a feel of quality and uniqueness about them and this doesn't come cheap, i applaud the house for not being all about commercialism.

May
17
2017
Mando
Mando

I had Krigler Established Cognac 66 (sold it super cheap of eBay over a month ago). It was nice but I think it was a bit too thin smelling for my taste. I wished I had smelled before I bought, not cheap stuff.

May
17
2017
lemonzest
lemonzest

One flower that deserves a place in perfumery is the banana shrub, Michelia figo. It's related to magnolias. The smell resembles Juicy Fruit gum. Great flower, deserves to be showcased.

May
17
2017
odoro
odoro

A fragrance note that would be nice to "see": viburnum.
Mine is blooming right now and it is wafting through the windows and scenting the entire house. One cut flower ball woody stem (made up of lots of flowers but it looks a lot like a 1/2 ball) scented the entire house last week when it was so cool the windows had to stay closed. Lilacs are also blooming and the combination in the yard and in the house is wonderful!

Scents to preserve for the future: all the natural scents we can since the warming is altering some of them. Surely more alterations of them will occur as out planet warms even further. Also, freeze drying the materials so they can be seen. They too will disappear as some already have.

May
17
2017
Q80
Q80

"iconic fragrance brand Krigler"! Really! It's like Penhaligon's silage and Guerlain Longevity with a common scent that is almost tasteless for the tag price they're asking, and the recent price rise is just an incredible new sitcom.

I believe every perfumer is taking their own chance by the effort they put on their marketing schema, the more you put on your marketing campaign, the more you yield back benefits and unfortunately "No matter how good your perfumes are" more marketing makes you big.

May
17
2017
smellagent
smellagent

Good week Marlen, I would love to smell two hundred year old potpourri. It is important to retain the smells of different eras I think. As a member of Fragrantica I kind of knew about the "myths" but fun reading anyway and nice seeing your name mentioned. As far as the trends, never follow trends per se just go with what I love and if I am in step so be it.
Would love to test those Kriglers. One flower I would love to see replicated in perfume is Sweet Olive, not Chinese Osmanthus, which is close but not a match.

May
17
2017
rp6969
rp6969

I have Krigler Oud For Highness. Got it for a consirable price reduction from a fellow Fragrantican. Smells nice but, considering the price, I was underwhelmed. They recently raised their prices to even more astronomical levels!

May
17
2017

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