Fragrance News This Week in Fragrance: Worth Launches Belle, Coty Acquires Burberry and Chlorine Inspires Scent

This Week in Fragrance: Worth Launches Belle, Coty Acquires Burberry and Chlorine Inspires Scent

04/05/17 08:29:38 (16 comments)

by: Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

 

Simran Sethi at Smithsonian.org offers an insightful overview of the history and production of vanilla with a startling revelation:

Today, most of what we eat is actually artificial vanilla flavoring. As Iain Fraser, a professor of agri-environmental economics at the University of Kent, recently wrote in The Conversation, less than 1 percent of the total global market in vanilla flavor is actually sourced from vanilla beans. In the late 19th century, scientists figured out how to derive vanillin—the dominant compound that gives vanilla its signature aroma—from less expensive sources. These included eugenol (a chemical compound found in clove oil) and lignin, which is found in plants, wood pulp and even cow feces. Today, about 85 percent of vanillin comes from guaiacol that’s synthesized from petrochemicals. This isn’t something many of us realize, because labeling can be confusing. READ MORE...

Hmmm, cow feces. Does this article change your thinking about vanilla specifically or have you questioning the origins of your favorite fragrances in general? Origins aside, what is your favorite true-to-life vanilla bean fragrance?

Vanilla pods and orchid

Nick Gilbert at CNN looks at the science behind capturing scent:

Perfumery has always been an intricate science; much more effort goes into capturing a scent than those outside the industry might imagine. Over the last two decades, chemists have used innovative new technology to add an even larger array of scents to the perfumer's palette, enabling them to create fragrances that have never been smelled before.... In the 1980s, fragrance house International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) invented a new way to capture the volatile molecules of virtually any scented object. Dubbed Headspace technology, it completely changed the industry. READ MORE...

What aromas would you like to see captured that current perfumes can't seem to replicate?

Glass containers of liquid

Thomas Buckley at Bloomberg reports that Coty is bringing a new designer into its growing portfolio:

Coty will pay about 180 million pounds ($224.9 million) in a deal that gives it the exclusive global license to Burberry’s beauty business and inventory, the trench coat maker said Monday in a statement. Burberry will maintain creative leadership over brands such as My Burberry and Mr Burberry fragrances, while tapping Coty’s industry knowledge and distribution network. “We never liked the idea of Burberry managing its beauty business directly,” because make-up and fragrances are fast-moving consumer businesses requiring global reach, Exane BNP Paribas analyst Luca Solca said in a note. “Burberry was a dwarf in the land of giants in this industry, and never had sufficient scale to run this business effectively.” READ MORE...

Ouch. What do you think about Burberry's acquisition by Coty? Are you a fan of the brand's previous releases? I haven't really liked a Burberry men's scent since its 1991 Burberry's for Men, though I did quite like Brit EDP and Brit Gold.

Burberry fragrances

USA Swimming has a clever new "product" as explained at Swimming World Magazine:

Eau de Chlôrine is a mysteriously bold fragrance that opens with pungent, powerful notes of bleach, creating an exhilarating rush for the senses. A subtle aroma of human sweat follows, combining with undertones of one’s personal musk to create a custom scent. With a watery-wet aesthetic, this fragrance entices and provides a shot of adrenaline to the senses. The bottle was inspired by the cool blue hues of an Olympic pool and features a sleek, minimalist design, creating a sense of authority and tranquility. This compelling cologne/perfume is favored by swimmers of all levels, including U.S. Olympic Swimming Team members Allison Schmitt, Haley Anderson and Cullen Jones. READ MORE...

Sound like advertising rather than a real aroma? Well, it's true, this is not actually a product available for purchase but rather a campaign to promote...swimming!? Check out the video below.

And to celebrate the success of Disney's live action Beauty and the Beast, famed couture/fragrance house Worth is launching a new fragrance. PR Newswire has the scoop:

Belle by Worth is presented in the couture house's original, octagonal weighty glass bottle, which is inscribed with the W of the House of Worth. The bottle is topped with a sustainable wooden cap which is finished in metallic pearl and features the word "Belle" engraved in  gold by master calligrapher Bernard Maisner. The fragrance is packaged within a hollowed out book, taking its inspiration from Belle's love of reading, and available in three collectable colors - chartreuse, crimson red and navy blue. READ MORE...

First Geir Ness's Frozen in a Bottle and now Worth's Belle! It's an exciting time for lovers of both Disney AND perfume. Shame there isn't a partner Beast scent, though : (

Are you interested in this new B&B fragrance?   Which other famous houses could you see partnering with Disney and which famous characters need their own perfume?

Belle fragrance from Worth

 

 

Image of the author

Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

Managing Editor & Columnist

Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison’s journalism in the fragrance industry has appeared in international print and online publications such as PlayboyMen’s JournalMen’s Health and the New York Times. Marlen is also a regular contributor to BeautyAlmanac.com and works as a graduate professor, thesis advisor and faculty supervisor for MA programs in TESOL, Education, Writing and Literature. Learn more about Marlen by visiting:  www.MarlenHarrison.com.

 



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Betsywoolbright
Betsywoolbright

I'm concerned about Coty's acquisition of Burberry.

To me, Coty is THE generic brand. The Jim Morrison "The Doors" perfume, for example, (never smelled it, but I see it on fragrancenet's ebay store) is probably actually made by Coty. The Playboy perfumes are too, but then again, so are the Sarah Jessica Parker perfumes.

Admittedly, I don't have a lot of experience with Burberry fragrances, but my bottle of Burberry Brit EDT leaves very little to be desired, though my collection is so large that I rarely reach for it. I don't want Coty to mess with this lovely perfume.

Burberry The Beat (EDP, female) has zero sillage or longevity on me as it is, and although I am very fond of it, I fear that it would be reformulated under Coty, and the new The Beat would end up no better than a dollar store body mist.

Apr
07
2017
PerfumeEmpress
PerfumeEmpress

Vanilla in cow patties? Wow. What do they feed these cows? Häagen-Dazs? And will cow flatulence be less harmful to the environment (according to the "experts") if it is vanilla scented?

I completely agree with LaDameDeNoir's comment about the venerable house of Worth's "comedown." Disney scents? Must everything revolve around Hollywood and its menagerie of overrated celebrities? And must we constantly be treated like 5 year olds? I only speak for myself, of course, but I have successfully out grown that period.

Lemonzest, I too hope the Coty's acquisition of Burberry won't result in an inferior, cheapened kind of scents.

Chlorine based scents? Oh, goody. Let's all smell like toilet cleaners. What could be sexier (rolleye).

Apr
06
2017
sweaterfreak
sweaterfreak

Dammit! I was SO excited about the chlorine fragrance...actually was on the website before I read the entire article. Truly my favorite smell!!!!!!!

Apr
06
2017
Ferminadaza
Ferminadaza

Re: Belle

How exciting! Can't wait until it reaches TJ Maxx!

Ahem.

Apr
05
2017
caitrun
caitrun

Oh my gosh!! Disney perfumes but for grown ups..

Mulan: sporty yet pretty oriental floral with aquatic notes.

Jasmine: something with jasmine duh, but spices and oud a hint of rose but not just another rose oud.

Elsa: an icy floral with vanilla.

Aurora: Floral, and solar notes, like a summer meadow in bloom.

Ariel: Aquatic and green notes.

Wow I could go on, but since this is make believe, I won't ;-)

Apr
05
2017
lemonzest
lemonzest

Cologne of the Missions Couvent des Minimes is the best vanilla bean fragrance, an obvious choice.

They need to headspace real gardenia and honeysuckle. Also the smell inside a beehive drawer. And the smell inside an old piano. Probably those last two scents include some lignin/vanilla notes, hmmm.

Used to wear the original Burberry for women back in the nineties. Loved it. Need to try it again, but I already have so many peachy scents. Hope Coty doesn't cheapen the Burberry line.

I don't care for Disney on aesthetic grounds. Their animation is skillful but soulless. Emma Watson annoys me too much for me to watch Beauty and the Beast; it's hard enough to get through the Harry Potter movies. Still, I used to like Je Reviens before reformulation destroyed it, so Belle might back a good scent. Just have to keep an open mind.

Apr
05
2017
Diana Jacobd
Diana Jacobd

Adore Burberry Body. It's one of my favorite scents. It was love at first sniff!

As for Disney scents, the possibilities are numerous . . . Snow White, Rose Red, Charming, Glass Slipper, Castle, Magic Mirror, Ever After, Once Upon a Time, White Horse. Poison already seems to be in keeping with the Disney theme (unwittingly)-poisoned 'Apple'.

Apr
05
2017
raw umber
raw umber

"What aromas would you like to see captured that current perfumes can't seem to replicate?"

Honestly none. I'm not sure when the perfume world became obsessed with achieving photo representational realism in their quest for great perfumes, but I think it's a mistake.

When something smells too close to reality, i can no longer wear it for fear I will encounter the actual thing in reality, only to be reminded of a perfume instead of the thing itself. This has actually happened to me before, when I smelled a barbecue and was instantly reminded of a greenish yellow bottle of Arso I had tested, instead of food, family, and barbecues past.

Perfume is most powerful when it smells like itself (not necessarily in a perfumey Chanel 5 kind of way) and whether the scent is familiar or completely alien, it should be not exactly like anything else in the world. Maybe it's suggestive of a memory, but not literally that exact memory with Headspace and HD rendering.

I think that once the quest becomes more about simulating reality than an internal song being finally sung out into the air, we've forgotten about real perfume magic.

I do realize of course that perfume can be impressive, very impressive without being magical (and it can also be quite satisfying without being impressive).

Apr
05
2017
Ganymede
Ganymede

I would like to see Etat libre d'orange do a perfume for Quasimodo from The Hunchback of Notre-Dame. I can only imagine what they would come up with.

Apr
05
2017
SolangeN
SolangeN

Maybe one day science will headspace oakmoss.

Apr
05
2017
mikemuscles21
mikemuscles21

@Calvini LOL! Laughing so hard at your last comment there. have to say I agree and have thought the same thing.

Apr
05
2017
Calvini
Calvini

Yeah.. I always read the ingredients in my food and whatever vanilla stuff I buy would have natural vanilla extract instead of vanilla "flavor", so I'm not concerned :)
I think it'd be amazing if they can replicate gardenia & honeysuckle in their natural glory though!
I'm glad Burberry got acquired; I don't think any of the fragrances did the brand justice other than London.
To be honest I've always thought semen smells like bleach+fish, so maybe Eau de Chlôrine could be the next Secretions Magnifique lol

Apr
05
2017
mikemuscles21
mikemuscles21

@ La DameDeNoir LOL! Sure. You could look at it that way too. But I've never seen it happen. Then again, I might just be a beast.

I have to correct you about Disney's film though. Disney is a huge company and any film they produce I would hardly call mediocre. Worth may be an old respected house but I'm sure having Disney as a client will hurt them less than it helps. I have to confess, I love Disney as a company. I like that they stand for inclusion and acceptance of people from all walks of life.
I can see what you're saying about the notes. I'll still give it a try, but I won't go out of my way.

Apr
05
2017
La DameDeNoir
La DameDeNoir

@mikemuscles21:

I think you have really missed the original message in the story. Which is not that the beauty is inside, or that a woman can change a hideous beast in a handsome prince. It is just that love can turn men into beasts, and beasts into princes.

It is a pity to see an old and venerable house like Worth was once reduced to produce merchandising for a very mediocre Disney film (I talk about the 2017 remake, not the original 1991 animated film). Besides, the notes sound pretty generic.

Apr
05
2017
smellagent
smellagent

You do find us some interesting reads indeed. Vanilla in cow poop? That is cra-cra but funny. Now every time I eat a vanilla dessert in an upscale restaurant, I might ask my server hey is this real or artificial vanilla.
I have no real comment on Burberry. I used to wear the first Burberry for women back in the 90's and it was so wonderful. I still remember what it smelled like but it is a different perfume now and it should have a different bottle and name.
I love the way a clean pool smells. I am a swimmer and nothing smells better then my arms after a few laps so I might check that out. Another good week.

Apr
05
2017
mikemuscles21
mikemuscles21

Wow, You always write about the most interesting topics.
The only Burberry I really liked was the Summer 2012 verson of Burberry Brit. I think Burberry has been struggling a bit in the luxury market in the last few years so I'm not surprised. Having said that I really like the brand. It's got style.

I don't really like Beauty and the Beast. Not because it's not entertaining. The reason I don't like it is because it sends a message to little girls, from a very young age, that if your man is a big scarey arrogant Beast, as long as you love him enough and try hard, you will be able to change him into that young prince you really want. Even if he is mean to you and your family. lol Hmpf, And we wonder why so many women get taken advantage of by their men. Having said that, like any fragrance, I'm always willing to try it.

Chlorine, I instantly thought of Dark Ride from Xyrena or the one from Demeter.

Cool scent capturing tech from IFF. And about Vanilla.. well there's nothing much about me that's vanilla. I enjoy it once in a while.
Now Leather, yea thats more my speed.

Apr
05
2017

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