Fragrance News This Week in Fragrance: Yeast, Dollars and Good Girls

This Week in Fragrance: Yeast, Dollars and Good Girls

01/25/17 08:13:00 (10 comments)

by: Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison


Alex Whiting of Thomson Reuters reports on a surprising new technology in fragrance chemistry:

Scientists are predicting that the familiar taste of vanilla or smell of roses, along with thousands of other scents and flavours, will increasingly come from a very unfamiliar source - yeast - a trend that is worrying some farming experts. A revolution in science means the DNA of plants can be transferred into yeast, bacteria or algae which can produce the required ingredient in laboratories within days. The compounds they produce are the same as those made by the original plants. Although only a few are on the market now, the number will increase, say the companies making them. READ MORE...

Naturally, those who base their livelihoods on growing aromatic materials are pondering their futures. How do you feel about these advances in aromachemistry?

Yeast

Rachel Strugatz at WWD.com celebrates the impressive success of Carolina Herrera's Good Girl fragrance:

The fragrance is on track to nearly double initial industry projections for a total of nearly $200 million in retail sales in its first year, according to industry sources. Albesa said Good Girl is “breaking historical records.” The eau de parfum has doubled both sell-in and sell-out objectives in all markets and has been top selling female fragrance in several countries for three consecutive months, he added. Carolina Herrera’s fragrance portfolio of 22 fragrances drove $600 million in retail sales last year for the company, not inclusive of Good Girl, but with the addition of the new scent and a U.S. rollout, is on track to do about $800 million in sales this year, an industry source said. READ MORE...

I'll admit, the bottle and concept seemed a little tacky to me, but global customers don't seem to agree. Good Girl is on my "to smell" list the next time I'm at Macy's but I'm eager to learn your thoughts. Have you experienced it yet? Are you unsurprised by its success?

Carolina herrera Good Girl

Kelly Crow of WSJ.com investigates what gives U.S. paper money its distinctive aroma:

Grab a dollar bill and sniff. What does cash smell like, really? Customs agents and chemists around the world have long been curious about the exact aroma of the U.S. greenback. The hunt is complicated by the fact that a dollar’s scent evolves as it circulates—from an inky-cotton fragrance fresh from the bank to an earthier, greasy-palm smell that should remind people to wash their hands more often. Marc vom Ende, a chemist and senior perfumer with German flavor and fragrance house Symrise AG, thinks he has hit on the precise blend. READ MORE...

Are you a fan of the scent of money? What other non-traditional object aromas would you like to know more about?

WOman smelling money

Discussions about the safety of our fragrances continue this week as Romper.com ponders, "Can I wear perfume around my baby?" Autumn Jones writes:

It smells divine and comes in pretties bottles, but could those musky and floral concoctions pose risks for you, as well as those around you? It's certainly a thought for mamas who love to wear their yummy scents. Holding and loving on your little one means baby is breathing in perfume all day. Stopping yourself mid-spritz to wonder, "can I wear perfume around my baby," may be one of the best questions you could ask to help protect your child's health, because there's more than rose petals and patchouli mixed in that mister. READ MORE...

It certainly is something to consider but I wonder what our readers' experiences and opinions are on this topic.

Baby being sprayed with fragrance

And finally, Vogue.com looks at spring trends in fragrance. Chloe Atkins has the scoop:

In the February issue of Vogue, the latest fragrance phenomenon to catch our attention isn’t a single buzzed-about new perfume, but several—spun out from the same brand, dressed in perfectly coordinated bottles, and released all at once. “Scent families,” they’re often called, and brands like Louis Vuitton, Rag & Bone, and now Viktor & Rolf have all offered up their variations. While the intent is to delight, the effect—when you encounter the whole lot of six or eight or 10 at the counter—is often overwhelming. READ MORE...

Overwhelming is definitely a good description for how I often feel at the fragrance counter, especially in light of not just single releases, but releases of entire collections. But at the same time I do enjoy the variety and options. What are your thoughts about this "scent family" trend?

Louis Vuitton Perfumes

Have interesting fragrance news for us to share?
Leave a comment in the new Fragrance News thread HERE.

 

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Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison

Managing Editor & Columnist

Dr. Marlen Elliot Harrison’s journalism in the fragrance industry has appeared in international print and online publications such as PlayboyMen’s JournalMen’s Health and the New York Times. Marlen is also a regular contributor to BeautyAlmanac.com and works as a graduate professor, thesis advisor and faculty supervisor for MA programs in TESOL, Education, Writing and Literature. Learn more about Marlen by visiting www.MarlenHarrison.com.



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thefifthg
thefifthg

Carolia Herrera is a wonderful house but Good Girl is one of
the house's weakest releases ever in my opinion.
The emphasis is on the gimicky bottle and the scent itself is a mess not befitting of such a house.
Since it is such a huge commercial success I expect a flanker to appear quite soon, unfortunately.
The commercial success encourages more and more people to try it which is a shame since there are so many amazing releases (from the house of Carolina Herrera and others) to try first.
I hope Carolina Herrera gets back to the house's signature which is releasing crowd pleasers/guilty pleasures fragrances that are also quite excellent.

Jan
27
2017
vbjanos
vbjanos

Yeast producing wine varieties has been around for a while. Yeast producing notes would have the same issue as synthetics: complexity. Growing 150 different yeasts instead of harvesting a single plant does not sound like big savings.

Jan
27
2017
Bstefcorbin
Bstefcorbin

I'm a big fan of Carolina Herrera. Elegant strands run paired and singular in her DNA AND RNA. She's like the female version of the worlds most interesting man! Her personal style is visible in the enduring silhouette she sends sweeping down the runway season after season. I've coveted those wide legged trousers and crisp high collared taffeta blouses forever. There's no way the former Marquise of Torra Casa ever even considered wearing F-me pumps! Conde Nast level marketing by Puig, the PPR of Espania.

Jan
26
2017
LadyIva
LadyIva

Nothing against Carolina Herrera Good Girl, but I'm just not interested in scents owned by everyone and their mother. Last week I was in London, and after finishing work I went to Selfridges for a sniffing session. As soon as I entered the store, a choir of girls working at various counters started singing: 'Try this one, it's a bestseller!' - Yeah, well, that's exactly why I don't want to try it. :)

Jan
26
2017
ranchorita
ranchorita

While it may be possible to approximate natural accords with modified yeasts, it's difficult to imagine the smell is identical. In an increasingly diverse world with myriad options for self-expression, fragrance is an important way individuals may distinguish themselves from others. Some may actually prefer the yeast-generated accords, but it is most likely that the lion's share of the fragrance market will continue to seek out fragrances with natural accords. If this were not the case, there would not be such differing opinions on aldehydes and lab-generated accords. The world of fragrance is a huge arena, and there is room for innovation, but there will always be a passion for the old-school naturally crafted perfumes.

Jan
26
2017
catherine82
catherine82

Yep,totally agree @ Raw Umber.

Websites like that are part of the delightful misinformation that pervades the internet. I actually hate the twee lifestyle bullshit websites even more than the lunatic political ones - because hardly anyone takes the latter seriously, but lots of people take the former VERY seriously - ie. the clean-eating brigade.

"Nasty chemicals are sad-face, pinterest boards are happy-face! Yay, vegan cupcakes!"

Jan
26
2017
raw umber
raw umber

I also think that pop-listicle producing publications such as Romper spread fear and dramatically over simply complex issues without providing adequate information or citing reliable sources such as scientific journals.

In other words, they're garbage.

Saying that phthalates "hit you right in the hormones" and that they can cause childhood obesity without backing these claims with substantial evidence isn't just annoying, it's insulting. Where are the studies that demonstrate that the levels of phthalates found IN PERFUMES are causing health problems in children? The article should link to them if they exist.

It's not enjoyable to be filled with some vague unsubstantiated notion that your perfumes are harming you or your children and if a writer wants to allude to that, they better BACK IT UP with something legitimate.

Also, this is straying from my point but I just wanted to add that prior generations never shared these concerns and their children (us) turned out just fine. If the difference is that newer perfumes are more poisonous (which I doubt), then forget babies, maybe no one should use them! Wait, they're fine you say? Not harmful? Ok great thanks.

Jan
25
2017
kapted
kapted

The packaging and concept of Good Girl seems tacky to me. Enough to make me give a wide distance between me and the counter selling it. It isn't even kitsch. I'd have to sample from a decanted vial to really give the scent a fair chance. I haven't even looked at the notes, but already I'm feeling no optimism.

Jan
25
2017
raw umber
raw umber

"Yeast, bacteria and algae feed on sugar to produce the plant compounds, in a fermentation process similar to that used to make beer.

Some activists are concerned about the environmental impact of growing large quantities of sugar to feed the expanding industry.

But the companies making the products say there is a surplus of sugar, and the land currently used to grow plants for the flavours and scents could instead be used for food."

"Could be... used for food"....
The ethics around this are extremely vague and the article really didn't cite any means of accountability. I get that it's a summary and not an academic paper though. Sounds like a technology that could be easily abused, but I don't know too much about it, this article being the first I have heard about it.

Thanks Fragrantica, for making me aware.

Jan
25
2017
nexangelus
nexangelus

Interesting stuff again Marlen. I am fascinated for the moment by the photograph at the top of the Vogue article. I am trying to identify all those pretty bottles (without being distracted by the artistically placed nude, of course!).

Jan
25
2017

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