Articles by Author Miguel Matos

Miguel Matos
Editor, Writer, Translator
Miguel is a Portuguese journalist obsessed with art and perfume. Miguel likes to see himself as a fragrance curator, investigating the possibilities of perfume as contemporary art in exhibitions and other multimedia projects. He directs his own cultural magazine, Umbigo, besides contributing with texts for museums and art galleries. He is a perfume collector and specializes in vintage perfumery, organizing monthly talks called Vintage Perfume Sniffing in Lisbon.
[email protected]

ESXENCE: M.Micallef, Mendittorosa & MoreESXENCE: M.Micallef, Mendittorosa & More

Art Books Events 03/25/17 04:47

Martine Micallef Lucia Remigi : This second day at The Mall was rich in fragrant discoveries and meetings with brand owners and perfumers, starting from the brief but pleasant talk I had with Martine Micallef from the eponymous brand about their recent Collection, Secrets of Love, and the newest addition to the line – Gourmet (an oriental fragrance featuring a soft chestnut note): although I liked each one of these five interpretations of as many facets... (more)

Miguel and Lucia share their news from favorite perfume houses.

Best in Show: Welcome Spring! (2017)Best in Show: Welcome Spring! (2017)

Best in Show 03/19/17 18:51 (33 comments)

Fragrantica is so pleased to celebrate the first anniversary of its popular Best in Show column by returning to the inaugural topic in the series. As the vernal equinox marks a shift in temperatures around the globe, so too does it mark a shift in many of our fragrance habits. Out go the winter favorites and in come the scents we've been waiting to wear with the change in weather. Last year's (2016) choices included En Passant Frederic Malle , Borsari Violetta d... (more)

Our international staff celebrate the arrival of spring with some of their favorite aromas. What scent spells spring for you?

Surprise in 3 Acts: Franck Boclet JasminSurprise in 3 Acts: Franck Boclet Jasmin

Fragrance Reviews 03/13/17 21:26 (3 comments)

Franck Boclet is a French fashion house that produces men's clothes and has been in the fragrance market since 2012, presenting until now solid scents in a continuously growing collection. The fragrances tend to explore traditional concepts and ingredients in intensive and qualitative compositions. Franck Boclet himself had a prolific career in fashion before he decided to launch his own brand. He was product manager for Kenzo Men, creative and production director for Arrow, Co... (more)

From aromatic to floral to animalic; a scent trip into great classic accords.

Best in Show: Sandalwood (2017)Best in Show: Sandalwood (2017)

Best in Show 03/12/17 06:57 (42 comments)

Sandalwood has a rich, balsamic, sweet fragrance with delicate wood notes. The oil has a woody, exotic smell, subtle and lingering and the color is pale yellow to pale gold. Sandalwood is a small evergreen tree growing to 18 m in height and 2.4 m in girth, with slender drooping branches. The tree reaches its full maturity in 60 to 80 years, which is when the center of the slender trunk (the heartwood) has achieved its greatest oil content. This classic oriental woody note offers milky... (more)

The documented use of sandalwood goes back 4000 years to India, Egypt, Greece and Rome. Our writers discuss their favorite sandalwood aromas; which are yours?

Animale Animale: Praising an Overlooked Chypre Animale Animale: Praising an Overlooked Chypre

Fragrance Reviews 03/08/17 10:58 (27 comments)

One thing I have learned over the years of working with perfume is that you don't need a large budget in order to buy yourself a great perfume. And that's something that the industry is not able to recognize. But there are lots and lots of amazing scents that can make you smell rich. This week I discovered another one: Animale by Animale . I promise that the perfume has nothing to do with the nasty ad : ) Even though I couldn't find one single blogger a... (more)

Animale has everything a good old classic chypre from the 80s should have.

Darkness For Brave Noses: Nimere by Nimere XVIDarkness For Brave Noses: Nimere by Nimere XVI

Fragrance Reviews 03/06/17 12:32 (21 comments)

  I am the kind of perfume lover that likes to be challenged from time to time. To get acquainted with rare perfumes that take time and dedication to fully know and appreciate. Those fragrances with which, when you smell them for the first time, you can't decide if you are attracted or repelled. Or even better, both. These are the ones that come closer to works of art. And there are days one feels open to be questioned, days when you want an intellectual task for the day; ... (more)

"A well orchestrated experience of depth, seduction, darkness and mystery which is both wild and elegant, and absolutely not for everyday or everyone."

Courreges Eau Hyper Fraîche: Cool as IceCourreges Eau Hyper Fraîche: Cool as Ice

Fragrance Reviews 03/05/17 08:00 (2 comments)

I have a fetish for Courreges and just passing by the Rue François Premier in Paris where the flagship store is located makes me frantic (well, also because Caron is almost in front of it too). Their fashion is as fresh now as it was in the 60's and there is something in their design that is electric and it's not just the colour. Gladly, they don't sell men's clothing or I would cry a lot for the prices are impossible for my wallet. On the other side, their perfumes ... (more)

This next summer, let the temperature rise and 50 ml of Eau Hyper Fraîche will only last me a week, I bet.

Fabio Lo Coco Moorish: Rooty and SweetFabio Lo Coco Moorish: Rooty and Sweet

Fragrance Reviews 02/26/17 09:45 (2 comments)

Fabio Lo Coco is a very young, independent, niche perfume brand from Italy with two perfumes launched in 2015: Oud Narang and Moorish . They come in simple but very attractive bottles of quadrangular prism shape with great design in materials, glass and lettering. Lo Coco is still an obscure Italian brand that is sold solely in niche perfumeries in Italy, for now; it's not easy to get a hold of or to even hear about it if you are not like me, always digging deeper to f... (more)

"Moorish brings me back to some mature and manly fragrances from the 80's."

The Dark Side of E. CoudrayThe Dark Side of E. Coudray

Columns 02/22/17 12:31 (8 comments)

  Do you know the power of fragrance in magic rituals? I confess I didn't until very recently. I have now with me two bottles of scents that are typically used in esoteric procedures and I shall tell you everything I found out about them. The last trip I made to Paris was extremely rich in encounters and perfume discoveries. On my visit to the L.T. Piver and Coudray factory  in Chartres, I found two strange bottles I had never seen before: Agua Divina a... (more)

Agua Divina and Eau Celeste are obscure fragrances with magic powers.

Best in Show: Dame Perfumery (2017)Best in Show: Dame Perfumery (2017)

Best in Show 02/19/17 09:18 (22 comments)

Three generations: Grandfather (L), Father and Son (R) Those who have been active in global perfumery throughout the last 30 years surely have become acquainted with the singular force of visionary creativity in the perfume world known as Jeffrey Dame. Whether it is his work in fragrance - such as his assistance in scents such as Bill Blass Amazing or the development of the Long Lost Perfumes brand - or his creation of the Perfume of Life discussion boards, Jeffrey Dame h... (more)

From photorealistic soliflores to exceptional musks and gourmands, this week we examine Dame Perfumery. Comment and share your favorites!

Giovanna Antonelli ParfumsGiovanna Antonelli Parfums

Fragrance Reviews 02/15/17 08:49 (8 comments)

  Let me tell you a tale of how the worlds of celebrity and niche perfumery get mixed and turned around to a great effect. Follow me from Portugal to Brazil and France for the birth of an amazing and new brand of perfumes called Giovanna Antonelli Parfums . Giovanna Antonelli Giovanna Antonelli is a Brazilian superstar. A very talented actress and an artist that the public from South America and Portugal has followed over the years. She is arguably one of the ... (more)

The Brazilian actress is launching a niche line of 3 gorgeous perfumes.

Fragrant First Impressions: New Courreges, Rare Picasso, Classic Miller Harris and more!Fragrant First Impressions: New Courreges, Rare Picasso, Classic Miller Harris and more!

Fragrance Reviews 02/11/17 11:32 (6 comments)

Welcome to Fragrant First Impressions, our way of sharing our initial encounters with a wide array of fragrances. We may not have significant experience with any of these aromas just yet, but we're excited to present our thoughts to you!   Miller Harris L`Air de Rien Stefanie: I've recently developed an interest in the "not so clean" scents and L'Air de Rien is basically this: Not so clean. Someone spent the day in bed... (more)

Staff reviews of L'Air de Rien, Agua Brava, Tonkaccino, Le Chapeau Bleu, Eau de Rhubarbe Écarlate, Red Musk, The Dark Heart of Old Havana and Hyperbole

Zoologist's Nightingale - A Chypre SymbolZoologist's Nightingale - A Chypre Symbol

Fragrance Reviews 02/08/17 15:19 (12 comments)

Even though my wonderful colleague Ida Meister has already reviewed the recently released  Nightingale fragrance from Zoologist , I also want to pay homage to this scent. I just recently received samples from Victor Wong and even though I thought that Civet would be my biggest crush ever, it turned out that I loved Nightingale much more. Go figure! Nightingale is the first creation of self-taught Japanese perfumer Tomoo Inaba and judging from this first renderin... (more)

From a Japanese inspiration to everything a chypre stands for. Miguel loves Nightingale.

Introducing William Fraysse, Caron's New In-House PerfumerIntroducing William Fraysse, Caron's New In-House Perfumer

Interviews 02/08/17 09:13 (7 comments)

The launch of  Pour Un Homme Sport  in 2015 has marked an important step for the French icon of perfumery Caron as it was the passing of the torch from one perfumer to another. Richard Fraysse has retired from creating perfumes and he left his legacy to his son William Fraysse , who is now the in-house perfumer for Caron. In my visit to the new boutique in Paris I had the chance to meet him in person and have a nice conversation. William is a low profile man with shy manners a... (more)

The future fragrances of Caron are in the hands of a younger member of the Fraysse family.

Best in Show: The Perfumes of Jacques Cavallier (2017)Best in Show: The Perfumes of Jacques Cavallier (2017)

Best in Show 02/05/17 07:37 (32 comments)

Renowned perfumers often leave their mark with a single famous creation that changes the industry, but few do so with not one but many different perfumes. Perfumer Jacques Cavallier is just such a figure, having changed our scented world with such industry changers as  Christian Dior’s Midnight Poison , or Issey Miyake’s L’eau d’Issey . He has produced perfumes for houses as famous as Givenchy and Lancôme , designers like Stella McCartney , and niche... (more)

Jacques Cavallier, Creator of Acqua di Gio and L'eau d'Issey gets the Best in Show treatment here at Fragrantica

The Look of Perfume Part III: Window Shopping with Set Designer Enrico MiglioThe Look of Perfume Part III: Window Shopping with Set Designer Enrico Miglio

Columns 02/05/17 07:37 (4 comments)

Welcome to another exploration of the visual worlds that gravitate around perfume. In the first article of this series I interviewed the bottle designer Lutz Herrmann . In the second installment I spoke with photographer Roberto Greco , This time, I chose to speak about Enrico Miglio, an Italian artist who fell in love with the idea of creating visual settings for the perfume world. His scenarios fill the shopping windows of some of the best niche boutiques in Europe and he was... (more)

Enrico Miglio creates small scented worlds with his set designs.

Making The Body Think - Scent and Philosophy Curated by Miguel MatosMaking The Body Think - Scent and Philosophy Curated by Miguel Matos

Art Books Events 01/31/17 10:14 (5 comments)

As a perfume writer and thinker, my aim is not only to succumb to olfactive heaven with the creations of perfumers but also to explore all the possibilities of perfume, from mere pleasure to critical thinking and the blending of smell with arts and social perspectives. I've been busy lately, setting up another very personal scent project: a scent and philosophy exhibition that combines a book, a singer and 6 perfumers. The opening will be on February 18th and I want to sha... (more)

"The invisible line of a smell that is maddening" - the interpretation of a book in smells and sounds.

29th International Perfume Bottle Association Convention: Princeton May 4 to 7, 201729th International Perfume Bottle Association Convention: Princeton May 4 to 7, 2017

Art Books Events 01/30/17 11:06 (3 comments)

Many of us perfume aficionados and dedicated collectors feel the need to gather same-minded people around us in order to share our passion and not feel like aliens. So events like perfume conferences, exhibitions, fairs and awards are welcomed with great excitement and anticipation. Le Lys Rouge Gueldy Perfume Bottle In the USA, one of the most exciting times of the year for perfume bottle lovers is the International Perfume Bottle Association's annual conven... (more)

Welcome to four days of conferences, a perfume bottle design contest, auctions...

Ajmal Tanaasuq: Rich and GoldAjmal Tanaasuq: Rich and Gold

Fragrance Reviews 01/29/17 06:22 (2 comments)

Ajmal is a Middle Eastern house that never fails when delivering oriental style fragrances of power and unashamed sillage. The brand's offer is generally divided into 2 styles: one is more European and the other is purely based on traditional tastes of the territory it comes from: the United Arab Emirates. And this is the line I admire most in Ajmal, with perfumes that I crave for, but also suffer with because of it being so hard to buy from where I live, Portugal. So, when I meet... (more)

Tanaasuq brings to us the best of two worlds. The complexity and richness of a true Arabian perfume and the diffusive power of an alcohol formulation.

Fragrant First Impressions: Versace, Givenchy, Biagiotti and more!Fragrant First Impressions: Versace, Givenchy, Biagiotti and more!

Fragrance Reviews 01/28/17 07:35 (5 comments)

Welcome to Fragrant First Impressions, our way of sharing our initial encounters with a wide array of fragrances. We may not have significant experience with any of these aromas just yet, but we're excited to present our thoughts to you! This week we explore a wide range of scents, from vintage classics which have sadly lost some of their oomph, to niche aromas that surprise.   Versace Dreamer Marlen: Versace Dreamer is a fragrance I ... (more)

Staff reviews of Versace Dreamer, Givenchy Xeryus, Aubusson Desirade, Lurk RSW005, Malle Lipstick Rose, Roma Biagiotti, and Delacourte Florentina.

An Ideal Lover and Catleya: Valentine's Scented Couple by Lise LondonAn Ideal Lover and Catleya: Valentine's Scented Couple by Lise London

Fragrance Reviews 01/27/17 08:38 (3 comments)

Lise London is one of those brands that are still under the radar for many perfume lovers and as such, I would like to call your attention to their great scents. And even though they may sometimes read as a bit classic in terms of composition, their quality and solid character are truly outstanding. Lise London has a fun brand image and attractive bottles, but the fragrances inside are serious stuff, believe me. I have already reviewed A Perfect Man and also the couple An Ideal W... (more)

Bulgarian rose, sandalwood and amber is the heart that unites these two fragrances in love.

SP Parfums Private Perfume With Miguel Matos: A Dream Come TrueSP Parfums Private Perfume With Miguel Matos: A Dream Come True

New Fragrances 01/25/17 08:39 (30 comments)

It's been a while since I announced my collaboration with German perfumer Sven Pritzkoleit and the making of my dream scent in the article The Dirty Monoi Project Part 1 and Part 2 . The reason why I didn't continue reporting on our fragrant adventure was the fact that it became more and more complicated, and in fact it ended up in not just one but three fragrances born from our perfume friendship. Sven and I come from very different cultures and we are separate... (more)

The final result of the work between Miguel Matos and Sven Pritzkoleit is a perfumed autobiography and a trilogy about Portugal.

Minimalistic Animalic: L'Animal Sauvage by MarlouMinimalistic Animalic: L'Animal Sauvage by Marlou

Fragrance Reviews 01/21/17 09:11 (3 comments)

The French fashion house of Marlou has just launched its first fragrance called L'Animal Sauvage (The Wild Animal). Knowing almost nothing about this brand but the name, I had to ask for a sample, of course. “This fragrance is the début offering from Marlou, young wildcat on the Parisian scene, a new aura in the world of perfumery. Far from the commodified market, we propose hand-crafted creations produced in selective quantities, free of artifi... (more)

"It smells animalistic but also a bit abstract and cool. Not roaring, just purring."

Chestnuts In the Air: Castagna by TuttotondoChestnuts In the Air: Castagna by Tuttotondo

Fragrance Reviews 01/17/17 11:59 (7 comments)

  This time of year, in my city and in many other cities where it's winter, the smell of roasted chestnuts is something that is always in the air. That comforting smell that I love, urging me to eat some more, and I can rarely stop before there is no more chestnuts left. Who would have thought that a perfume brand would take this as a theme for a fragrance? It's real and it's called Castagna , from the ever so fun Italian house of Tuttotondo . ... (more)

Have you ever imagined a perfume that smelled like roasted chestnuts?

Best in Show: Tuberose (2017)Best in Show: Tuberose (2017)

Best in Show 01/15/17 11:30 (66 comments)

No note in perfumery is more surprisingly carnal, creamier or contradicting than that of tuberose. The multi-petalled flower is a mix of flower shop freshness and velvety opulence. Which is why it is the perennial polarizing flower note having as many ardent fans as passionate detractors. The Victorians must have been among the latter: they forbade young girls of inhaling the scent of tuberose in the fear they might have a spontaneous orgasm! Roja Dove is right when he says that tuberose is ... (more)

Tuberose as featured in niche, luxe and men's perfumery.

Zadig & Voltaire This is Him - French RockZadig & Voltaire This is Him - French Rock

Fragrance Reviews 01/15/17 10:18 (7 comments)

Quality has been returning to mainstream fragrances lately and hopefully we are going to see this happen continuously not only from Guerlain or Chanel, but also from other names, even designer brands that are not fragrance-based businesses. A great example of that is the newest Zadig & Voltaire scent couple. After the first experience with perfume from this French fashion house, the solid creations called Tome 1 La Pureté and Tome 1 La Pureté For Men in 2012, a n... (more)

Dark and sexy, classic and young, a rocker scent for savvy millennials.

Gucci Guilty Absolute: Playing NicheGucci Guilty Absolute: Playing Niche

Fragrance Reviews 01/11/17 08:17 (35 comments)

  The new masculine scent from Gucci, Guilty Absolute may sound like another flanker in the yawn-producing line of the same name. Even the cliché designation "absolute" is such a tired meaningless thing. But behold and admire! Forget the last years of senseless flankers and non-creative juices flooding the brand in sameness. Gucci Guilty Absolute is really a niche fragrance trying to make its way into the mainstream market in a rec... (more)

Remember the days of Gucci fragrances created by Tom Ford? Those days are gone but this week the mailman just delivered the upcoming masculine Gucci and was I blown away!

Love Sweet Love: ÉléonoreLove Sweet Love: Éléonore

Fragrance Reviews 01/06/17 06:51 (4 comments)

After so much perfume talk about vanilla and gourmand, these words are almost like synonyms. But sometimes they are not. And even if Rancé 1795 describes their new fragrance Éléonore as their new gourmand edition in the Collection Imperiale, my experience with the perfume is not such. The concept of this scent is focused on fruits, cakes and resins, providing a contrast of these elements. The story behind it is the following: Napoleon III escapes from the... (more)

The sweetest caress from Rancé 1795.

Dora Baghriche, the Curious PerfumerDora Baghriche, the Curious Perfumer

Interviews 01/02/17 12:21 (7 comments)

  On my latest trip to Paris, I had the privilege of a guided tour inside Firmenich , one of the world's main raw materials supplier for the perfume industry. Inside, a team of incredibly talented perfumers works everyday so they can create the fragrances we fall in love with. Dora Baghriche is one of them. She has been working there for 10 years now, starting as a trainee in Firmenich in Geneva in order to become a perfumer. After two Years in Geneva, s... (more)

From Olfactive Studio to Viktor & Rolf: a bright conversation between Miguel and Dora inside the Parisian offices of Firmenich.

Best in Show: Chanel (2017)Best in Show: Chanel (2017)

Best in Show 01/01/17 11:55 (67 comments)

Chanel. For almost 100 years, these two syllables have conjured sophistication, glamour and simplicity...and perfume. Whether choosing an iconic early aroma of the brand such as Cuir de Russie, a 70s classic like Cristalle, an 80s powerhouse oriental such as Coco, or a new Les Exclusifs such as Jersey, it is easy for everyone to find a Chanel of their own. And many famous names have helped to keep Chanel iconic: Marilyn and her N° 5; Warhol and his pai... (more)

Fragrantica editors celebrate their favorite Chanel fragrances. Leave a comment with your own picks!

Oliver and Co Nebula 1: Subjective Minimal WhiteOliver and Co Nebula 1: Subjective Minimal White

Fragrance Reviews 12/26/16 13:42 (5 comments)

It's interesting how different people with different scent backgrounds and different perceptions can experience a fragrance. For the last few days I have been wearing Oliver and Co's Nebula 1 without knowing anything about the composition or the concept. And I have been enjoying it very much. It's such an intellectual perfume from the amazing, kind and cool Spanish perfumer Oliver Valverde , quite an aloof fragrance, much in tune with some concepts from Com... (more)

Olfaction meets Abstraction in this work by Oliver Valverde

A Fragrance for SantaA Fragrance for Santa

Columns 12/25/16 03:01 (34 comments)

Would Santa wear scent? What would it smell like? And if he did, would anybody smell it as he rode through the upper atmosphere? Well, every substance in gas form has a little gravity between molecules, so these molecules will distribute and fill all the space available. This probably means that in a vacuum or in outer space the diffusion of perfume will be much higher. Sadly, no one could notice it because it's actually not possible to inhale or breathe in space. ... (more)

Fragrantica editors choose scents they would gift to Santa. What would your choices be?

American Glamour: Norell ElixirAmerican Glamour: Norell Elixir

Fragrance Reviews 12/22/16 11:50 (10 comments)

Norell is a symbol of vintage American perfumery. Launched in 1968, Norell was a green fragrance that was exactly in tune with the trends of the time. It survived for many years until it was discontinued. Recently  Parlux relaunched the brand with a reformulated edition of the original scent called Norell New York . This year the first Norell flanker comes out bearing the name Norell Elixir and I happened to smell it in Cannes during the TFWA expo, instantly falling in lo... (more)

Norell is back and it comes with a flanker of oriental character in a jewel treasure box.

Experiencing Chanel Nº5 The Body OilExperiencing Chanel Nº5 The Body Oil

Bath & Body 12/21/16 07:25 (15 comments)

  The news about the launch of Chanel Nº5 Body Oil has raised a lot of curiosity in people, me included. I couldn't wait to try it on my skin and so I asked the house of Chanel if I could review it. With the most kindness and refinement, they sent me a bottle which I couldn't open fast enough, so excited was I to feel it on my skin and in my nose. And here I am, your brave writer, reporting from the trenches of chic and indulgence. So after all what is t... (more)

How does The Body Oil perform on the skin?

The Language of Scent, Part 5The Language of Scent, Part 5

Columns 12/19/16 14:39 (8 comments)

Becoming a fragrance fan essentially requires one to learn a new language, and there is quite a bit of specialized terminology that we use when we talk about perfumes: from the process of creation all the way to how we wear them. Many of these terms can be easily mixed up and so Fragrantica's international writers present a 5 part series to help us all build our vocabulary and clarify misconceptions. Today, Fragrantica writer  Miguel Matos who is also editor of the ... (more)

Miguel explores the notions of Vintage vs Retro, Classic vs Oldfashioned and Natural Content vs Natural Smelling.

Caron Brings Back Montaigne!Caron Brings Back Montaigne!

New Fragrances 12/16/16 15:35 (9 comments)

It's been a year of changes for the historical house of French perfumery Caron . First of all, William Fraysse was announced as the new official in-house perfumer (he is the son of the legendary perfumer Richard Fraysse and he co-developed Tubereuse ) and the brand launched his first individual creation for Caron, Pour un Homme Sport . Second, Caron celebrated the opening of the new boutique in Rue François 1er in Paris with a modernized version of the art deco style i... (more)

The oriental woody fragrance from 1987 is no longer discontinued. It is available again in a new bottle.

Editors' Choice Awards 2016: Thanks from Writer and Editor Miguel MatosEditors' Choice Awards 2016: Thanks from Writer and Editor Miguel Matos

Fragrantica 12/15/16 04:01 (22 comments)

As much as this may come as a disappointment to say, I am not the best person to speak about the magic of this festive season. I am not the family kind of guy and my dream would be to spend Christmas with my chosen family which is my selected and restricted group of friends, something that never happens. The passing of the year is also something that bothers me. There is too much consumerism going on and this is not the thing that the world needs, really. I would like to see more of th... (more)

Congratulations Angela Agiannidou, Drugstore Classics and Mary-Jayne!

Sylvaine Delacourte Debuts Her Own Fragrance BrandSylvaine Delacourte Debuts Her Own Fragrance Brand

Interviews 12/10/16 12:34 (6 comments)

Sylvaine Delacourte is a woman that is passionate about perfume. In her rich career she has worked behind the scenes for many years in the perfume industry, restricted by commercial briefs inside a "strictly business" house like Guerlain, but now she's flying on her own talent. While being Guerlain's creative director, Sylvaine was responsible for the creation of the whole L'Art et La Matière collection and she also directed the creation of the Champs El... (more)

Guerlain's former creative director is now flying with her own wings. Musk is the leitmotiv of the first collection of perfumes.

Bittersweet Poison: Cicuta by V CantoBittersweet Poison: Cicuta by V Canto

Fragrance Reviews 12/07/16 08:29 (3 comments)

  The analogy between perfume and poisonous potions is not a novelty. The greatest example we can find of this inspiration is the iconic Poison . It makes sense. In fact, both perfume and poison are liquids that can enchant, entrance or even kill. Well, mostly in fairy tales. Let's not enter the crime theme here. Cicuta is a fragrance launched this year by the Italian brand V Canto , and it is inspired by the deadly powers of hemlock. The nose behind it i... (more)

To every venom there is an antidote. Feel free to overdose in this one from Paolo Terenzi and Lucrezia Borgia.

The Look of Perfume Part II: Interview With Photographer Roberto GrecoThe Look of Perfume Part II: Interview With Photographer Roberto Greco

Interviews 12/05/16 12:06 (12 comments)

  Roberto Greco, self-portrait . Perfume as a culture has not only a smell but also a shape and image, a language or several. Perfume is a dream and the overall result of the imagination it triggers. After having discussed how a perfume gets its visual shape in a bottle with bottle designer Lutz Hermann , I will now talk with photographer Roberto Greco about the images he creates inspired by perfume. Chanel, personal research Roberto Greco i... (more)

Roberto Greco is the creator of some of the most beautiful images for the niche perfume industry.

Best in Show: The Fragrances of Michel Almairac (2016)Best in Show: The Fragrances of Michel Almairac (2016)

Best in Show 12/04/16 11:35 (32 comments)

Born in 1953 in Grasse, France, Michel Almairac has become one of the most prolific modern perfumers, developing fragrances for many major brands including Gucci, Chloe, Le Labo, Burberry, Escada, Chopard and Givenchy, to name just a few. Almairac began his training in 1972 at Roure Betrand Dupont (now part of Givaudan) and continued his career working at such famous companies as Creations Aromatiques, Drom, and Takasago. He currently works at Robertet.&... (more)

Fragrantica's editors celebrate Michel Almairac by discussing what they consider to be some of his most important compositions. Which are your favorites?

Unveiling Starck's Peau d'AilleursUnveiling Starck's Peau d'Ailleurs

Fragrance Reviews 12/03/16 09:29 (8 comments)

Much anticipation has been given to the fragrances from the world celebrated designer Philippe Starck . The bottles are probably the best we've seen in the last years, simple but sculptural and conceptually interesting. A picture is not capable of showing their simplicity and the movement it generates when the three bottles are in line. The sensuous touch that they have when you hold them in your hand is another surprising element that I cannot depict in images or tex... (more)

"Peau d'Ailleurs? Oh boy, this is another level of fragrance. This isn't even just fragrance. It's art. Period!"

Exclusive Visit to the L.T. Piver Factory in ChartresExclusive Visit to the L.T. Piver Factory in Chartres

Columns 12/01/16 08:08 (11 comments)

Througout the years that I've been working at Fragrantica, I've made a lot of friends in the perfume industry. One of the best relationships I have developed is the one I have with Sylvie Dumontier, from L.T. Piver and E. Coudray . After the many articles I've written on these brands and so many joyful encounters in perfume expos, she invited me to visit the Piver factory in Chartes, near Paris. I was very excited to do this and, a year after the invitation, I decided t... (more)

A private inside tour where the juices are mixed, bottled and boxed.

Fiery Gourmand: Nishane Fan Your FlamesFiery Gourmand: Nishane Fan Your Flames

Fragrance Reviews 11/30/16 12:10 (4 comments)

In mainstream perfumery, I find that the gourmand category is the most vulgar, boring and cliché of them all. However, in the niche segment, it seems that this year many good surprises are coming from strange new gourmands. In this category I include Fan Your Flames , the smoky boozy fruity scent of quirky personality by the great Turkish house of Nishane . Fan Your Flames is a bold, extravagant scent. Nothing is soft here. It's for the brave perfumista only. ... (more)

Fan Your Flames represents the new category of unusual gourmands that we've seen at Esxence and Pitti Fragranze 2016.

Jean-Claude Delville in Retrospect: From Cabotine to Marjolaine and Many More...Jean-Claude Delville in Retrospect: From Cabotine to Marjolaine and Many More...

Interviews 11/28/16 11:04 (8 comments)

  Jean-Claude Delville is the father of some of the most memorable perfumes from the 1990s until now. He was the man who created the masterpiece  Grès Cabotine in 1990 and also the recently reissued Jean Couturier Marjolaine , originally launched in 1997. The relaunch of Marjolaine was the perfect excuse for me to get in touch with this extremely kind perfumer who lives and works in New York, creating fragrances within the highly respected Drom com... (more)

The re-edition of Marjolaine was a pretext for a conversation with the perfumer about hits like Kenzo Parfum d'Etê, Clinique Happy and many more interesting stories until today.

Parle Moi de Parfum: The Pure Works of Michel AlmairacParle Moi de Parfum: The Pure Works of Michel Almairac

Niche Perfumery 11/24/16 06:25 (2 comments)

Parle Moi de Parfum is the newest French niche brand to arrive to the market. I discovered it Last week in Paris, in the center of the Marais district, with the help of a friend. Parle Moi de Parfum was started by Benjamin and Romain Almairac, sons of the legendary perfumer Michel Almairac . This newborn family business (the shop opened 2 months ago) was built from a collection of scents created by the perfumer over the last few years, scents that were never released,... (more)

Inside this store, there are only works of art, not marketing. Miguel visited Parle Moi de Parfum in Paris to smell these newborn scents.

Best in Show: Seasonal Spices - Cloves (2016)Best in Show: Seasonal Spices - Cloves (2016)

Best in Show 11/20/16 09:29 (31 comments)

We began our exploration of the spices of the season in our article about nutmeg . We return in our giant ship of the past to the Spice Islands for that elusive flowering bud that emits one of the richest of all spice scents: Cloves. Many do not know that the hard, dark brown spice that grinds down to a coarse and mealy powder is actually the dried bud from a flowering tree,  Syzygium aromaticum . It’s native to the small Moluccas Islands of Indonesia. However, they were... (more)

The closed buds of a rare tree bring forth the warm, spicy promises of the season through the lore of cloves.

Paris, A Perfumed AffairParis, A Perfumed Affair

Columns 11/19/16 12:39 (12 comments)

This week was a very exciting one for me. I was in Paris discovering new perfume brands, visiting good friends, interviewing perfumers and smelling the most beautiful things you can imagine. I love Paris and this is a place that is very dear to my heart. The atmosphere, the architecture, the wine, the cheese, the macarrons, the friends I've made, and the new pleasure I found in speaking French after 2 or three glasses of wine (my French only emerges with alcohol). Comi... (more)

Miguel spent the week walking in Paris, seeking the trail of perfume news and discovering hidden treasures.

Best in Show: The Perfumes of Sonia ConstantBest in Show: The Perfumes of Sonia Constant

Best in Show 11/13/16 06:37 (6 comments)

As writers for Fragrantica, we are fortunate to become familiar with the work of our peers and gain access to information this way. Fellow writer Sergey Borisov  conducted such an intriguing and insightful interview with perfumer Sonia Constant that we knew we’d love to explore her work at greater length. It is with this thought in mind that we present our latest Best in Show highlighting perfumer  Sonia Constant . Looking at the wide breadth of her... (more)

Creator of the immensely popular Tom Ford Noir Pour Femme, Sonia Constant is a fascinating force in contemporary perfumery.

Oud Nihal: Memory and Legacy of the Terenzi FamilyOud Nihal: Memory and Legacy of the Terenzi Family

Fragrance Reviews 11/13/16 05:22 (6 comments)

Perfume has an intimate relation with a question of time. Perfume is not immortal, therefore it deals with the finite nature of itself as a work of art that develops over time and decays with the passage of time. By spraying a fragrance, we are spending it and putting a limit to our experience of it. Each drop we use is one less drop we have. The more pleasure we get from perfume, the more we know that the end is near. This is especially true in the case of a vintage perfume or a limi... (more)

"The sentimental issues, the transformation of memory, the rarity of ingredients and the quality of them are the things that make Oud Nihal a work of art."

more Articles by Author Miguel Matos
 1  2  3  4  5  6  7 

Advertisement

Popular brands and perfumes: