Articles by Author Naheed Shoukat Ali

Best in Show: Seasonal Spices - Cinnamon (2016)Best in Show: Seasonal Spices - Cinnamon (2016)

Best in Show 12/18/16 10:13 (46 comments)

In our first two articles celebrating spices in perfumes this holiday season, we explored nutmeg and cloves . In the third and last installment of this series, we set sail again to far off shores to investigate that nearly universal spice cinnamon .   Cinnamon is native to Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Burma, and the Malabar Coast of Southern India, where it is found as the inner bark of the Cinnamon tree, or  Cinnamomum verum . A similar plant, Cassia, is often u... (more)

In our third and final exploration of spice-based perfumes, we smell those amazing scents infused with cinnamon.

Empress Josephine's Rose GardenEmpress Josephine's Rose Garden

Fragrances and Cultures 02/12/16 04:35 (12 comments)

In 1804, France was about to witness the creation by Empress Josephine Bonaparte of the greatest rose garden, one whose well-crafted plan and beauty is still praised to this day. In 1799, she bought Chateau de Malmaison near Choisy, where she fulfilled her lifelong passion for flowers and which also became her permanent residence after her divorce from Napoleon in 1810 till her death in 1814. Malmaison was a huge property where shrubs, flowers and trees of all varieties were b... (more)

Revisiting the legendary rose garden of France

New Launches from the House of J. Junaid JamshedNew Launches from the House of J. Junaid Jamshed

Fragrance Reviews 09/10/15 16:07 (29 comments)

The house of J. Junaid Jamshed launched four new fragrances: Addicted and Spark for  men and Amber Light and Treasure for women. The fragrances are created by keeping in view autumn and winter but are worth wearing in all four seasons. ADDICTED "J. Fragrances is presenting a new fragrance for men Addicted. This fragrance introduces a surprising symphony of contrasts with an initial burst of citrus, as deep and textured as they are refreshing and invi... (more)

Naheed reviews the brand's latest fragrances for men and women

The Tulip Garden of Srinagar, Kashmir: A Picture StoryThe Tulip Garden of Srinagar, Kashmir: A Picture Story

Fragrances and Cultures 05/06/15 16:36 (12 comments)

On the banks of famous and the most beautiful Dal Lake with the Zabarwan range of mountains as its background, the Tulip Garden of Srinagar, famously known as the Tulip Garden of Kashmir, is the ultimate in beauty and is like a fairy tale garden in its own right. The present day tulip garden was once a fruit orchard, but as the better part of Kashmir's economy is dependent on tourism, the idea of creating a tulip garden came into existence. The tulip garden is now eight years ... (more)

The ultimate in beauty and a fairy tale garden in its own right ...

Attar in India: Part 2Attar in India: Part 2

Interviews 02/21/15 07:27 (7 comments)

In the first part of Attar in India , Moosa Khan, the current owner of Ali Brothers Perfumers, imparted some basic information about attars which readers found of great interest. In this article, readers will learn even more about attars. I am again grateful to Mr. Moosa Khan for sharing his invaluable knowledge with Fragrantica. I always believed Darbar and Majmua were attars, but they are not. Would you explain why? Majmua and Darbar are not attars because attars are extr... (more)

More about production, pricing and the significance of Agarwood (Oud) in India

Attar in India: An IntroductionAttar in India: An Introduction

Interviews 02/04/15 14:22 (17 comments)

The art of creating fragrances and fragrancing holds the history of centuries within, which also brings with it the study of different cultures and civilizations. I still remember as a child my mother often used to tell about my grandfather's signature scent which was an attar called “Darbar,“ which he only bought from India and in bulk so that he may never run out of it, because not wearing that particular fragrance, even once, was like a nightmare for him. I thin... (more)

What are attars? How are they produced and what are the ingredients?

The Launch of EDGE by J. Junaid Jamshed FragrancesThe Launch of EDGE by J. Junaid Jamshed Fragrances

Fragrance Reviews 01/09/15 04:29 (6 comments)

J. Fragrances has launched their first fragrance of 2015, EDGE for men. "Edge was composed by keeping in view the warm weather of Pakistan which will make the wearer feel fresh and energetic all day. It is a fragrance that men would love to keep in their fragrance wardrobe all year round to be worn everyday," says Junaid Ur Rehman, Manager of Business Development (Perfume Division). J. Junaid Jamshed used very unusual and rare materials in order to create i... (more)

A review of the new J. fragrance for men

Introducing J. Fragrances from the house of  Junaid Jamshed - PakistanIntroducing J. Fragrances from the house of Junaid Jamshed - Pakistan

Niche Perfumery 12/23/14 17:06 (16 comments)

J. Junaid Jamshed is one of the top celebrity brands of Pakistan and also the first ever brand to produce their own line of fragrances alongside garments. The brand J. Junaid Jamshed debuted in 2002 as garment merchant with its first outlet in Karachi and soon established itself as a successful celebrity brand with its numerous outlets in 14 cities of Pakistan. In 2003 J. introduced its line of fragrances. To develop the best fragrances, J.'s R & D department lin... (more)

Perfume house from Pakistan.

Henna - A Tradition and ArtHenna - A Tradition and Art

Fragrances and Cultures 03/31/14 13:26 (21 comments)

Your warm fragrance penetrates deep down the soul of your admirer
 Your stain is compelling to the eyes
 It sure is a meeting of the sight and smell For centuries Henna has been used in cosmetic and healing capacities, for celebrations of occasions, and to bring a cooling effect to the body. It's hard to tell its origins, but it is said that for centuries it has been used in South Asia, North Africa and the Middle East for adornment. The archeological records also... (more)

For centuries Henna has been used in cosmetic and healing capacities ...

The Onset of Adolescence and the Change in Taste of FragrancesThe Onset of Adolescence and the Change in Taste of Fragrances

Columns 02/06/14 19:37 (28 comments)

I am always on the lookout for learning and gathering information about teenagers—partly due to, as per my belief, it is the most challenging phase of life and partly due to the fact that teenagers are often misunderstood. It's a stage at which an adult is in the making and a child is in the leaving. Probably that's why I get back to this subject again almost over two and a half years later. Before it was their association with fragrance and this time it is how their... (more)

"Most of their choices come from others' likes and dislikes."

Fennel in PerfumesFennel in Perfumes

Raw Materials 10/08/12 14:34 (12 comments)

The use of herbs and spices in the culinary world is of vital importance, because they not only give a tantalizing aroma to food but are also deemed as taste enhancers. When these aromatic herbs and spices make their way onto the perfumer's palette, they become perfume ingredients. Among such fragrant food ingredients, Fennel is also the one which, when added in food, tickles taste buds, the same way as, when blended with the right ingredients, it creates a pleasing herbaceous fra... (more)

With explanation provided by Andy Tauer.

Cumin in Fragrances - A Note That is PolarizingCumin in Fragrances - A Note That is Polarizing

Raw Materials 06/26/12 21:49 (10 comments)

Cumin is one of those fragrance notes which are either liked or despised. Parfumistas who are not very approving of cumin likened it to body odor or sweat while those who like it find it amazing. Talking of the strongest cumin note in fragrances, Kingdom by Alexander McQueen tops the chart and that is the reason that in most reviews on this fragrance, people associate its fragrance with the stench of sweat, but then there are those who think it ... (more)

"To find out if cumin really does smell like body odor, I experimented by putting a pinch of cumin seeds in a sachet and left it in my fragrance wardrobe..."

Aroma SpaceAroma Space

Home Scents 04/23/12 12:10 (5 comments)

"Perfumery and aroma space design both stem from the same core: the experience of beauty through the olfactory senses. One flows naturally out of the other. Aroma space design and perfumery are also overlapping in certain material aspects as they use certain similar basic ingredients. Although perfumery tends to be more luxurious and exclusive. The main difference is the focus: perfumery is more closely related to the body, the clothes and the person who is wearing it,&nb... (more)

Fragrant auras for home offered by Maurice Joosten, a sculptor, aroma space designer and yoga instructor from Japan.

Ambergris - Know The Raw Material Better Ambergris - Know The Raw Material Better

Raw Materials 03/08/12 15:17 (32 comments)

Ambergris, which comes from some species of sperm whale, is one of the most valuable raw materials in perfumery. It's rare, and the fragrance it exudes is just as rare. In perfumes ambergris is used as a fixative and its presence can be best described as marine, animalic and sweet. Speaking of chemical content, the three major components isolated from ambergris are triterpene alcohol ambrein, the chief active ingredient, as well as epicoprostanol and coprostanone. To... (more)

First-hand information from the industry!

Book Review: 'Perfuming With Natural Isolates' by Shelley WaddingtonBook Review: 'Perfuming With Natural Isolates' by Shelley Waddington

Art Books Events 02/28/12 16:56 (6 comments)

It was a pleasure to interview Shelley Waddington about her book Perfuming With Natural Isolates  and now it is a great opportunity to write a review of this book in which Shelley has skillfully interwoven her knowledge and her expertise in isolates. Before writing this book, she had already delivered training on natural isolates. She was also invited by Nature's Nexus Academy of Perfuming Arts to instruct a unit on the topic, and she began teaching about ... (more)

"Those who know how to blend accords will surely follow some great accords suggestions and will avail the opportunity to enjoy some of the historic fragrances by blending them."

Amber and Ambergris are Two Different NotesAmber and Ambergris are Two Different Notes

Raw Materials 02/12/12 11:10 (46 comments)

It is always confusing when Amber, which is also one of the most important fragrance families,  is discussed in fragrances. It gets even more confusing when the terms Amber and Ambergris make their ways in. Amber, also known as Fossilised Amber, comes from plant resin and is a fantasy note in fragrances, while on the other hand, Ambergris is an animal source which is excreted by some species of sperm whales. Both are two entirely different notes and with resp... (more)

"Since ambergris is expensive and rare, what is mostly used in fragrances are the synthetic substitutes."

Perfumer Shelly Waddington About Her Book Perfumer Shelly Waddington About Her Book "Perfuming With Natural Isolates"

Natural Perfumes 02/07/12 18:27 (6 comments)

Shelley Waddington , owner of EnVoyage Perfumes launches her book Perfuming With Natural Isolates . The official launch date was February 2, 2012. Her book is a complete reference manual about natural isolates. Fragrantica did an interview with Shelley to give the readers a short synopsis of her book. Here's what we talked about. Giving the introduction of her book, Shelley explained why she felt the need to write a book.   Shel... (more)

Shelly Waddington introduces her new book, addressed to perfume lovers and perfumers.

Amber - Captured SunshineAmber - Captured Sunshine

Fragrances and Cultures 01/23/12 13:56 (29 comments)

Gleaming like the sun, 
 are the amber beads  
laid on the glass table. Amber - Admired for its charm and grace, it has been given various names on which one can write poetry and say words of praise. The words include Tears of the Sun, Tiger's Soul, Hardened Honey, Petrified Light, Window to the Past, Nordic Gold and many more. According to scientists, Amber is fossilized tree resin that has taken millions of years to form.... (more)

"Amber has not only been used as jewelry or in fragrances, but it has also been considered as a medicinal remedy for many diseases from ancient times till now."

Winter and The Smell of ColdWinter and The Smell of Cold

Columns 01/14/12 21:36 (15 comments)

When the North Pole tilts away from the sun, winter reigns over the Northern Hemishpere.  The sun is low in the sky and days are short. It's freezing cold in some parts, while colder parts are covered in snow, the perfect time for snow ball fights and skiing. It never snows in my city, probably because it's by the sea. Nor do the temperatures ever reach to even -1.  I will describe winters here as pink winters that bring biting cold, which for many, is not very p... (more)

"When talking fragrances, I can well realate Estee Lauder's Cinnabar to winter, the smell of the cold and pink winters of my city which is a city by the sea."

Incense: MyrrhIncense: Myrrh

Raw Materials 12/23/11 18:32 (2 comments)

  COMMON NAME: Myrrh, mur, moyao (in Chinese)  
 PLANT FAMILY: Burseraceae  
 GENUS: Commiphora   
 SPECIES: There are various species, the most common amongst them are Commiphora myrrha , C.gileadensis syn.Commiphora opobalsamum . 
 USES: Used as incense material, medicine and perfume For centuries, whenever th... (more)

"The myrrh note is best used in oriental fragrances and complements well, with a little darkness, the luminous and cheerful characteristics of the oriental vibe."

Tuberose - Pure EleganceTuberose - Pure Elegance

Raw Materials 12/06/11 11:28 (20 comments)

Among flowering plants which are much valued for their fragrance and are admired for their prettiness, Tuberose (Polianthes tuberosa) has long been cherished for its sweet fragrance, elegance and for its absolute and concrete extracted from its fragrant white flowers. The flower has such a heady floral fragrance that the picked flowers continue to produce for at least a good two weeks even after the blooms begin to fade. The name reflects the fact that the plant is g... (more)

Talking of Tuberose essential oil, there is actually no such thing as essential oil when referring to this flower.

Marjoram - Sweet MarjoramMarjoram - Sweet Marjoram

Raw Materials 11/29/11 20:16 (7 comments)

Common name : Marjoram or Sweet marjoram  
 Botanical name : Marjorana hortensis, Origanum Marjorana  
 Plant Family : Lamiaceae  
 Genus : Origanum  
 Species : genus Origanum consists of over 44 species Best known as a culinary herb and an essential ingredient in French, Middle Eastern and prominently in Mediterranean cuisine, Marjoram isn't an unfamiliar herb to food lovers and in kitchen gardens. It is the wo... (more)

Oil of marjoram is mainly used in flavoring food. Marjoram is often confused with oregano.

Ylang-Ylang - Cananga odorataYlang-Ylang - Cananga odorata

Raw Materials 11/10/11 14:06 (14 comments)

Common Name :  Ylang-ylang 
 Botanical Name : Cananga odorata  
 Plant Family : Anonaceae  
 Genus : Cananga  
 Species : odorata, latifolia Ylang-ylang  (pronounced as "ilang-ilang") is a highly appreciated flower in perfumery and aromatherapy. This flower is a blessing in disguise for many health problems. On his website Perfumer AbdeSsalaam Attar menti... (more)

Ylang-ylang is widely used in perfumery. It's included in Guerlain's signature Guerlinade.

Turmeric - Curcuma longaTurmeric - Curcuma longa

Raw Materials 11/05/11 11:42 (10 comments)

  Common name : Turmeric, haldi in Urdu 
 Botanical name : Curcuma longa  
 Genus : Curcuma 
 Plant family : Zingiberaceae Turmeric  is best known to the world of food as a spice that gives food warm and distinct flavor with a warm, herbaceous and earthy aroma.  However, it tastes bitter and somewhat slightly hot peppery. The word turmeric is thought to be derived from the French word, terre-merite , mea... (more)

Tumeric is a healthy and delicious spice.

Pomegranate - From The Gardens Of ParadisePomegranate - From The Gardens Of Paradise

Fragrances and Cultures 10/18/11 12:10 (11 comments)

Leathery skin, holding ruby beads within, wears its own little crown, Guess the name of this round king that holds a little crown? Considered a symbol of fertility or fruitfulness, this little crown-holding fruit is Pomegranate, which is called Anaar  in Urdu. However, the word "pomegranate" comes from the Latin pomum and granatus , or "seedy apple." Olive, dates, figs and grapes are some of the earliest fruits, a... (more)

"Pomegranate and its leaves have been used in different religious ceremonies in ancient times."

Opoponax - Sweet MyrrhOpoponax - Sweet Myrrh

Raw Materials 10/06/11 14:37 (12 comments)

  Commonly known as : Opoponax, Bisabol-myrrh and Sweet myrrh 
 Plant family : Burseraceae 
 Genus : Commiphora  
 Species : Commiphora Erethraea , C. guidottii ,  C. kataf, C. holtiziana and C. pseudopaoli.  
 Uses : incense, perfume,flavor agent and medicine  
 Opoponax or sweet myrrh is a cousin of th... (more)

Opoponax, opopanax or sweet myrrh, a cousin of the healing Myrrh.

Frankincense OlibanumFrankincense Olibanum

Raw Materials 10/04/11 12:07 (19 comments)

Common name : Frankincense, Olibanum, Luban Plant family : Burseraceae Genus : Boswellia Specie : With respect to frankincense, Boswellia Sacra is the most common Uses : Incense, medicine, toothpaste, embalming, insect repellent, fragrance "…and when they had opened their treasures, they presented unto him gifts; gold, and frankincense and myrrh&qu... (more)

Frankincense, Olibanum, Luban, Levonah, Khunk - a special incense.

What is Incense?What is Incense?

Raw Materials 09/09/11 14:38 (17 comments)

  '' Incense (from Latin: incendere , 'to burn') is composed of aromatic biotic materials, which release fragrant smoke when burned. The term 'incense' refers to the substance itself, rather than to the odor that it produces. It is used in religious ceremonies, ritual purification, aromatherapy, meditation, for creating a mood, and for masking bad odors. The use of incen... (more)

"Incense relics that are thousands of years old have actually been found all over the world, so it can be believed that incense has been a part of many different cultures for a very long time."

Agarwood or call it Oudh!Agarwood or call it Oudh!

Raw Materials 09/07/11 13:15 (11 comments)

Common name : Agarwood, oudh, agalocha Plant family : Thymelaeceae Genus : Aquilaria Species : There are about 15 species of the genus Aquilaria   Agarwood is reputed to be the most expensive wood in the world. There are many names for the resinous, fragrant heartwood produced primarily by trees in the genus Aquilaria . Most commonly, the resin is known as agarwood, aloeswood, eaglewood, gaharu, agalocha or oudh (In Arabic)... (more)

"Agarwood is a resinous heartwood that occurs in trees belonging to the species of Aquilaria."

A New Ethical Standard Towards Perfume Consumers: The ECLIP ListA New Ethical Standard Towards Perfume Consumers: The ECLIP List

Interviews 08/30/11 12:17 (15 comments)

A NEW ETHICAL STANDARD TOWARDS PERFUME CONSUMERS   For most people the only factor that determines their purchase of a perfume is that they like the smell of it. However, more people every year ask to know what is in the perfumes they purchase in order to make their choice with ethical, ideological or health criterions. For instance, vegans do not want certain ingredients and so do allergic persons. The laws make it compulsory on producers to inform th... (more)

An Interview with perfumer composer AbdeSsalaam Attar.

Date:  A Golden Harvest and A Fruit of HeavenDate: A Golden Harvest and A Fruit of Heaven

Fragrances and Cultures 08/19/11 18:33 (29 comments)

When I think of dates, the picture of a desert and a thirsty traveler comes to my mind, one who has traveled miles in the scorching desert on his camel and is looking for water and some shade. And then he spots something that brings a smile to his face and fast he approaches that end of the never-ending desert.  What he sees is an Oasis where there is water to quench his thirst and an inflated date tree for food. Then he ties his camel around the trunk of the dat... (more)

Dates are one of the most widely used fruits across the world and have a sweet taste that can be described as a mixture of honey and sugar syrup.

AldehydesAldehydes

Raw Materials 08/02/11 15:06 (17 comments)

According to a general definition of Aldehyde that says: "An aldehyde is an organic compound containing a terminal carbonyl group. This functional group, called an aldehyde group, consists of a carbon atom bonded to a hydrogen atom with a single covalent bond and an oxygen atom with a double bond. Thus the chemical formula for an aldehyde functional group is -CH=O, and the general formula for an aldehyde is R-CH=O. The aldehyde group is occasionally called... (more)

Since the beginning of the 20th century aldehydes have been widely used in the perfume industry.

Teenagers and FragrancesTeenagers and Fragrances

Columns 07/24/11 13:05 (186 comments)

When life is just beautiful and full of colors, free of worries, when the day begins with a bright smile on face and life is just like a bed of roses. Well, we call this time "teenage" which seems too short but the most memorable at the same time. I am especially writing this article for all the teens out there who, along with this brightest period of their age, also love to sport fragrances. And also for those who've already kissed goodbye their teen years, it will... (more)

What fragrances do teens wear?

RiceRice

Raw Materials 07/13/11 18:25 (9 comments)

Common name - rice; Family - Poaceae or Gramineae; Subfamily - Bambusoideae or Ehrhartoideae ; Genus - Oryza ; Species - Oryza sativa (the most known specie) Talking of rice in perfumery , the aroma that comes across the olfactory senses is of basmati rice and Indian rice pudding— Kheer . And coming to think of the green and clean fragrance of paddy fields, Angel Schlesser Homme by Angel Schlesser , which is an Aromatic fougere fragr... (more)

Rice is a fragrant grain which possesses heavenly aroma of nutty, green, grassy, and earthy nuances.

Spicy Cinnamon in AsiaSpicy Cinnamon in Asia

Fragrances and Cultures 06/25/11 11:51 (9 comments)

Cinnamon—one of the most common of all spices and I'd better say a powerful spice. The uses of cinnamon are very old. The cinnamon we use is basically the inner tree bark and very aromatic. Strangely, the cinnamon I use here is an outer bark and is almost reddish brown. It is said to be native to Sri Lanka and was used in Egypt, Greece, Rome and China hundreds of years ago. And if we look at the histories of the above mentioned countries, we can conclude the age o... (more)

"Talking of its uses in Asia, this might surprise you that cinnamon is mainly used in savory dishes more than sweet dishes."

Peony - Good Fortune, Compassion, NobilityPeony - Good Fortune, Compassion, Nobility

Fragrances and Cultures 06/11/11 00:00 (17 comments)

White peonies blooming along the porch send out light while the rest of the yard grows dim. Outrageous flowers as big as human heads! They're staggered by their own luxuriance: I had 
to prop them up with stakes and twine. The moist air intensifies their scent, and the moon moves around the barn  
to find out what it's coming from. 
 In the darkening June evening I draw a blossom near, and bending close search it as a woman sea... (more)

Peony is a beautiful fragrant flower, celebrated in many cultures.

Caraway - in your spice cabinetCaraway - in your spice cabinet

Raw Materials 05/31/11 15:21 (11 comments)

BOTANICAL & OLFACTORY FACTS Botanical name: Carum Carvi Commonly known as: Caraway Kingdom: Plantae Division: Magnoliophyta Class: Magnoliopsida Order: Apiales Family: Apiaceae or Umbelliferae Genus: Carum Species: Carum Carvi Parts used: Leaves, roots, dried ripe fruits (called as seeds), oil Flavour: aromatic Extraction met... (more)

"To this day, it remains as a widely used and an important ingredient in cooking, herbal medicine and liqueurs." Naheed

Coriander – Herb and SpiceCoriander – Herb and Spice

Raw Materials 05/24/11 00:09 (12 comments)

The art of producing perfumes is an ancient art which is said to have begun in Mesopotamia and Egypt, sometime during the second millennium BC. Back in that time, notes used in making perfumes were spices and various kinds of herbs, but surprisingly, no use of flowers was made then. I wonder how perfumes smelled in those days. And the possible answer comes to my mind, “It would be something like aromatic, spicy, earthy, and woody and green." But with time, experi... (more)

"The name cilantro refers to the leaves which are used as an herb, whereas the seed or fruit is referred to as coriander and both possess different flavors and aromas from one another."--Naheed

Jasmine in Different CulturesJasmine in Different Cultures

Fragrances and Cultures 05/18/11 15:32 (44 comments)

Your scent enchants me Every time I get close to you Oh beloved Jasmine. A time in our lives comes when we fall in love and everything feels beautiful. But this probably is not the first time of our life and love stepped in even before so... Recall the day, when as a child, you saw a rainbow and smelled flowers for the first time. What did you feel? The stars shone in your eyes to see the magnificent colours of the spectrum and a voice came from yo... (more)

This is the first article of our new project 'Fragrances and Cultures.'

Star AniseStar Anise

Raw Materials 05/10/11 16:18 (17 comments)

BOTANY & ODOR CHARACTERISTICS Botanical Name: Illicium verum Plant Family: Illiciaceae Country of Origin: China Plant Part: Seeds Growth Method: Cultivated Extraction Method: Steam Distillation Colour: Clear to Pale Yellow Consistency: Thin Strength of Aroma: Strong and licorice-like, more pungent and stronger than anise   Family Illiciaceae includes flowering plants that have evergreen ... (more)

Star Anise is a very popular spice in perfume compositions for women and men.

CardamomCardamom

Raw Materials 04/27/11 22:11 (27 comments)

Category: Spice Family: Zingiberaceae Names: Cardamom, true cardamom, green cardamom ( English ) Desccription: Camphorated, aromatic, resinous Extraction method: steam distillation   Cardamom is one of the world’s very ancient spices and also the third most expensive one next to saffron and vanilla. It is native to the East originating in the forests of the Western Ghats in southern India, where it grows ... (more)

Cardamom is a common ingredient in masculine perfume compositions. It's also sometimes included in fragrances for women.

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