Articles by Author Sergey Borisov

Sergey Borisov
Serguey Borisov has been known in the Internet world of perfume under the nickname moon_fish for more than 10 years. Now he writes about perfumes for and, and contributes on the subject for glossy magazines.
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Dubai Beauty World Middle East: Only Business! Dubai Beauty World Middle East: Only Business!

Art Books Events 05/20/17 04:03 (8 comments)

The Fragrantica team has returned from Dubai's BeautyWorld Middle East where the largest perfume and cosmetic exhibition took place. Our colleague Sandrina has already published her report on the exhibition's niche perfume section, Quintessence (there were 23 niche brands on 300 square meters). Today, let me continue. To give you an idea of the exhibition's size, here are a few figures. Thirteen gigantic halls with a total area of about 56,000 sq m are about 9 times... (more)

"Art is only a small part of this business, and only if it can bring more money. The main thing is to find what people are buying now, to find a market and sell it with a margin."

Incident Diplomatique Jovoy: The Perfume Against Boredom Incident Diplomatique Jovoy: The Perfume Against Boredom

Interviews 05/18/17 04:26 (6 comments)

At the Esxence-2017 exhibition I managed to find another great example for my collection of vetiver fragrances. However, the name of this fragrance, Incident Diplomatique by Jovoy Paris , did not presage such a choice at all – as vetiver is one of the quiet woody notes, and usually aromatherapists recommend vetiver oil to make people calm and to ground feelings and emotions. But the fragrance Incident Diplomatique , developed by perfumer Vanina Muracciole and Jovoy art-director Fra... (more)

A well-chosen fragrance can trigger a diplomatic incident!

Stephane Humbert Lucas: I Need flowers!Stephane Humbert Lucas: I Need flowers!

Interviews 05/14/17 06:26 (2 comments)

You probably do not remember my interview with Stephane Humbert Lucas a year ago. I was very surprised when the perfumer, instead of telling the legend of the Taklamakan fragrance, instead told a very personal story - the story of his life and how the fragrance is linked with his life. So the interview becomes personal again. SERGEY BORISOV: Good morning, Stephane! Nice to meet you again in Esxence Milano! What is your best-smelling news? STEPHANE HUMBERT LUCAS: This year I h... (more)

Sergey interviewed Stephane about his three new perfumes and perfume style changes

Majoromantica by Shiseido: Alice in Wonderland Majoromantica by Shiseido: Alice in Wonderland

Fragrance Reviews 05/13/17 06:54 (2 comments)

I never thought that I would ever write about fragrances like Majoromantica . But the time has come, and this red bottle with a fragrant transparent gel inside now makes my three-year-old daughter happy. Maybe it's too early for her to use fragrances. But she happily wears her scent to the kindergarten, without being embarrassed that this is a teenage fragrance. We must take an example of childish spontaneity and never be embarrassed by anything – so I'll write about the perfu... (more)

"The perfume is for sweet girls with a sweet tooth. So sweet, it immediately shows all the girlish signs – berries and fruits, flowers, bonbons and caramels."

Sir Gallahad Isabey: Courteous and GracefulSir Gallahad Isabey: Courteous and Graceful

Fragrance Reviews 05/11/17 07:05 (4 comments)

“Peace be with you, fair lords.” Then the old man said unto King Arthur, “Sir, I bring you here a young knight that is of kings’ lineage, and of the kindred of Joseph of Arimathea...” Now the name of the young knight was Sir Galahad, and he was the son of Sir Launcelot du Lac; he was old enough to bear arms, and his mother had sent him in the charge of a holy hermit to King Arthur’s court. Thomas Bulfinch "The Age of Chivalry" ... (more)

How many men could name themselves Sir Gallahad heirs?

A New Generation Chooses Nougeres!A New Generation Chooses Nougeres!

Fragrance Reviews 05/07/17 05:44 (2 comments)

In addition to the four new Jacques Fath fragrances and the revived Sir Gallahad Isabey fragrance (you can read about them here ), at the Panouge booth at Esxence 2017 I discovered a couple of masculine fragrances I had never tried before. Both fragrances happened to be contemporary fougere compositions, totally in the spirit of its house Panouge , because the company name is an acronym meaning PArfums NOUvelle GEneration. A new generation of men choose nougeres (new fougeres)! ... (more)

Sergey reviews the new Perle Rare Homme Black & White Editions from Panouge

Shiseido Formulas as Japanese Chemical HeritageShiseido Formulas as Japanese Chemical Heritage

Fragrance News 05/06/17 08:22

On 17th March 2017, Keio University presented a chemical heritage certificate presentation ceremony at the Hikichi campus. The six perfume-related Shiseido objects received the official certificate of the Japan Chemical Society for 2017, for their role in "the origin of the modern cosmetic industry in Japan." Usually the heritage status is received by objects of cultural heritage (works of art, ancient buildings, traditional crafts, etc.), but Japanese chemists decided that their... (more)

The Chemical Society of Japan has recognized Shiseido's historical materials as the chemical heritage of the country.

Perris Monte Carlo: Tuberose and Cocoa Perris Monte Carlo: Tuberose and Cocoa

Interviews 05/05/17 07:41 (6 comments)

Perfume House Perris Monte Carlo presented some new Houbigant perfumes at Esxence 2017 in Milano, but we managed to learn some more news from Gian Luca Perris about future launches. Gian Luca Perris, the owner of Perris Monte Carlo SERGEY BORISOV: Dear Gian Luca, so you've created some new perfumes? GIAN LUCA PERRIS: Yes, we are going to launch 4 new perfumes in our Perris Monte Carlo collection. SERGEY: Congratulations! Could you tell us more a... (more)

Sergey interviewed Gian Luca Perris about new Perris Monte Carlo perfumes

Color and Smell, Part V: NarcissusColor and Smell, Part V: Narcissus

Raw Materials 05/02/17 14:01 (19 comments)

  In our project  Color and Smell  we talk about natural spring aromas and beautiful perfumes based on their smells. Please read about  mimosa ,  violet ,  tulipe  and hyacinth in nature and in perfumes in our previous articles. Let us here introduce our fourth choice – the Narcissus! Mat Yudov: Narcissuses are bulbous plants of the Amaryllidaceae family. Like many other plants of t... (more)

The fifth part of the project consecrated to spring flowers: Mat tells the story of the narcissus and we share our favorite narcissus-based fragrances

Smelling The New Jacques Fath With Luca MaffeiSmelling The New Jacques Fath With Luca Maffei

Interviews 04/29/17 04:54 (5 comments)

Luca Maffei was kind enough to introduce his 4 new creations for  Jacques Fath to me at Esxence 2017. I must admit that smelling perfumes together with their creator is a special pleasure, as if you are peeking into his lab or diary. Below I present my interview with Luca and my impressions of the 4 scents. Rania Naim, the art director of Jacques Fath, and the perfumer Luca Maffei LUCA MAFFEI: I really love the brand Jacques Fath , I love its great heritage... (more)

Luca Maffei talks about his 4 new perfumes for Jacques Fath.

Quelques Fleurs Jardin Secret HoubigantQuelques Fleurs Jardin Secret Houbigant

Niche Perfumery 04/28/17 10:30 (6 comments)

Houbigant has launched the new fragrance Quelques Fleurs Jardin Secret . SERGEY BORISOV: Good morning, dear Elisabetta! I am glad to see you and the new perfume in your range! The box and the bottle look very familiar. ELISABETTA PERRIS: It is our new fragrance Quelques Fleurs Jardin Secret , and we presented it in Milano for the very first time. The fragrance has an Eau de Parfum concentration, and it will appear in stores from April 2017 in Italy, then France, G... (more)

Elisabetta Perris and Sergey talk about the new fragrance from Houbigant - Quelques Fleurs Jardin Secret.

The House Of Oud: The Perfume with Oud Harvested in 2016The House Of Oud: The Perfume with Oud Harvested in 2016

Niche Perfumery 04/26/17 08:44 (3 comments)

Giving me one of his last flacons of Crop 2016 The House of Oud , the brand owner Andrea Casotti said: "It is a rare case when I am happy seeing a flacon go. When you sell them, you do not know who and how they will use and take care of them. We made only 300 bottles of this perfume in 2016, and there will be no more. It is important to me to know to who I give my perfume to, and in this case I know."   He sounded like a parent talking about his chi... (more)

A chocolate you would not expect.

Perfumes: Luxury or Industry products?Perfumes: Luxury or Industry products?

Interviews 04/22/17 10:35 (13 comments)

I had only one day at the world famous Givaudan Perfumery School. So I tried to learn as much as possible. For example, I learned that in Argenteuil, a Parisian suburb, even grocery shop workers knew where Givaudan is located (though the police officers I consulted looked to Google maps for help). I learned in advance that Eugenie Briot, the program manager of the Givaudan Perfumery School, wrote a PhD thesis on the history of French perfumery. Therefore, our interview was not only about the... (more)

Sergey talks with Eugenie Briot, historian and Programme Manager of Givaudan Perfumery School, about the evolution of perfumes in the XIX century.

Color and Smell, Part IV: HyacinthColor and Smell, Part IV: Hyacinth

Raw Materials 04/18/17 10:01 (13 comments)

  In our project  Color and Smell  we talk about natural spring aromas and beautiful perfumes based on their smells. Please read about  mimosa ,  violet  and tulipe  in nature and in perfumes in our previous articles. Let us here introduce our fourth choice – the Hyacinth! Mat Yudov: Hyacinths — a genus of pluriannual,  bulbous , fragrant flowering plants originated f... (more)

The fourth part of the project consecrated to spring flowers: Mat tells the story of the hyacinth and we share our favorite hyacinth-based fragrances.

The Naked Truth from Christophe LaudamielThe Naked Truth from Christophe Laudamiel

Art Books Events 04/11/17 07:17 (8 comments)

  Perfumer Christophe Laudamiel during his lecture Esxence The Scent of Excellence is not only a perfume exhibition and a place to smell niche news, but you can also educate and entertain yourself attending lectures, workshops and presentations. I chose a lecture by the perfumer Christophe Laudamiel, because I really wanted to meet him and smell his creations after his honest and intriguing interview a while ago. It was not only me who was curious; t... (more)

Sergey attended Christophe Laudamiel's lecture about manupulation with scents at Esxence.

A  Modern Trend: Perfumes with a Social MessageA Modern Trend: Perfumes with a Social Message

Niche Perfumery 04/07/17 05:26 (7 comments)

In addition to pure perfume hedonism and perfume art, when scents induce some pleasure, fragrances can become a sort of dazibao ( 大字報), a wall poster on which social or political slogans are inscribed. We noticed that trend before (READ HERE ), and now it is further developing. The social messages of fragrances, brands and movements have become significant for socially active and responsible consumers. At Esxence 2017 in Milan, this trend was evident and growing. Paloma Y Raices Hom... (more)

"The social messages of fragrances, brands and movements have become significant for socially active and responsible consumers. At Esxence 2017 in Milan, this trend was evident and growing."

Stephanie Bakouche: I am happy in Grasse!Stephanie Bakouche: I am happy in Grasse!

Interviews 04/04/17 17:24 (5 comments)

One of the greatest surprises of Esxence 2017 for me was perfumer Stephanie Bakouche and her Jul et Mad  perfumes (read Sandrina's preview HERE ) . No wonder I asked her for an interview (I've been collecting these questions for years). What is she famous for? Stephanie created several beautiful niche perfumes, she might not be well-known to the general perfume consumer, but she is on her way to great popularity among perfume art lovers. Stephanie was a st... (more)

Interview with the perfumer who created the most recent perfumes for Jul et Mad, Stephanie Bakouche.

Esxence 2017: Interview with Paolo Terenzi Esxence 2017: Interview with Paolo Terenzi

Interviews 04/01/17 14:15 (3 comments)

Paolo Terenzi in St. Petersburg, Russia 2016 Esxence 2017 was full of new brands and fragrances again, but somehow it was neither boring nor overpowering. It rather made me think of a fountain of creativity that never stops. And my interview with Paolo Terenzi of the Tiziana Terenzi brand, one of the most fruitful modern perfumers, just made me that much more sure about the levels of creativity that I experienced. We counted his novelties together and he made a great statem... (more)

"I believe that perfumes are made and bought for intimate pleasure....So find yourself the perfume you adore – whatever it will be, and be happy!"

Shopping Challenge: Gourmands Under $25 USDShopping Challenge: Gourmands Under $25 USD

Best in Show 03/26/17 09:48 (61 comments)

Surprisingly, one of the most popular genres of modern perfumery is also one of its newest. Many attribute to the rise of dessert-like fragrances - those offering chocolate, caramel, biscuit and even liquer notes - to 1992's groundbreaking Angel by Thierry Mugler and Clarins. And for the past 25 years, the market has seen an exctiing array of variations on gourmand themes. So popular are gourmand fragrances that we've even dedicated a Fragrantica Forum discussion boar... (more)

Our international writers recommend some budget-friendly gourmands. Which are your favorites?

The Bliss Of Al Rayhan Attar Collection The Bliss Of Al Rayhan Attar Collection

Niche Perfumery 03/23/17 08:30 (5 comments)

Today in my Green Smell series of articles in which I call for Spring, I would like to introduce the very new  Al Rayhan Attar Collection perfume that I recently discovered.   I saw a green box and a green bottle and was immensely attracted to it since it was the color I often crave during this time of year. I was not abashed by the deep patterned velvet and the heavy stopper, I was still sure that I was going to smell Spring. And I was curious ho... (more)

While their Western colleagues work on expressing the intense and gourmand Orient, Arabian perfumers explore delicate floral and tender green perfume layers.

A New Kind of Perfume Tea: Wulóng Chá NishaneA New Kind of Perfume Tea: Wulóng Chá Nishane

Niche Perfumery 03/17/17 18:25 (3 comments)

The Turkish brand Nishane Istanbul has appeared in my country and has become more reachable than before. I'd like to commemorate this with a review of Wulóng Chá, my favorite creation by the house, and one that focuses on Oolong tea. Wulóng Chá Nishane bergamot, orange, lychee and mandarin; tea and nutmeg; musk and fig. I have to admit that my understanding of what Oolong tea tastes and ... (more)

Sergey is reviewing one of his favorites by Nishane.

Color and Smell, Part I: MimosaColor and Smell, Part I: Mimosa

Raw Materials 03/16/17 22:41 (25 comments)

  Here in Russia we are celebrating the first warm spring days! We were waiting for it for so long that we decided to consecrate a whole series of articles to the spring season and to talk about spring's main flowers and their role in perfumery. Each article of the "Color and Smell" series will consist of two sections: an introduction with Mat's description of a certain flower in perfumery and the types of ra... (more)

This is the first part of a project devoted to spring flowers: we are talking about the smell of mimosa and our favorite fragrances with this note.

Mouthwatering Black Phantom By KilianMouthwatering Black Phantom By Kilian

Fragrance Reviews 03/16/17 06:39 (12 comments)

After Elena's cheerful interpretation of By Kilian's news , it was difficult for me to choose a different approach, but I have tried and abstracted myself from imposed images of its press release and just smelled the perfume. I have to admit, it is worth a tale. Let's disregard the whole show off look and story, and inhale a sweet aroma from the black bottle. I get a bright, spicy, alcoholic flare, momentary, but flashy, which gives away rhum absolute in its compos... (more)

The new By Kilian has been tested.

Khamsin Pour Toujours: Narcissus & Golden StoneKhamsin Pour Toujours: Narcissus & Golden Stone

Fragrance Reviews 03/16/17 06:39 (One comment)

Among a great number of fragrances created in the Parisian perfume laboratory FLAIR, there are six compositions which notably stand out. They were created "for myself", I am talking about Pour Toujours perfume collection by Martine Denisot, who collaborated with Amélie Bourgeois and Anne-Sophie Behaghel . Our Migel Matos has written about FLAIR and published a detailed interview with perfumers , but did not have a chance to describe the perfumes of Pour Toujours. ... (more)

Inspite of its harsh name, this perfume reminds me of wet narcissus flowers.

Green Spring: Angéliques Sous La PluieGreen Spring: Angéliques Sous La Pluie

Fragrance Reviews 03/16/17 06:39 (4 comments)

So it goes that in springtime we are often attracted to green aromas. In cold winter we seek for dense chypres, warm orientals and gourmand perfumes. But when spring comes, you wish to change and revive together with nature. Let's succumb to temptation! Angelica Archangelica Spring comes slowly to Siberia where I live, and I test the readiness of my nose and my mood by gradual exposure to green fragrances. I started with Vetyver Nicolaï Parfumeur Cr&eacu... (more)

Jean-Claude Ellena's fragrance generates rain.

Best in Show: Sandalwood (2017)Best in Show: Sandalwood (2017)

Best in Show 03/12/17 06:57 (55 comments)

Sandalwood has a rich, balsamic, sweet fragrance with delicate wood notes. The oil has a woody, exotic smell, subtle and lingering and the color is pale yellow to pale gold. Sandalwood is a small evergreen tree growing to 18 m in height and 2.4 m in girth, with slender drooping branches. The tree reaches its full maturity in 60 to 80 years, which is when the center of the slender trunk (the heartwood) has achieved its greatest oil content. This classic oriental woody note offers milky... (more)

The documented use of sandalwood goes back 4000 years to India, Egypt, Greece and Rome. Our writers discuss their favorite sandalwood aromas; which are yours?

Best in Show: Jo Malone (2017)Best in Show: Jo Malone (2017)

Best in Show 02/26/17 09:45 (25 comments)

Like the story of Anita Roddick and the very-British The Body Shop, the Jo Malone brand started thanks to the vision and resourcefulness of a single English lady. A florist by day and a beautician by night, Jo was inspired by her dual-natured job, dabbling in beautiful things, to incorporate the lovely scents of her flower business into beauty products that women could savour for longer than a couple of days. Perfume, that most ephemeral pleasure, yet the one prolonging the tempo... (more)

"Customers have embraced the Jo Malone London brand for adherence to refined style and subtlety, the dignified concepts, and the encouragement to layer the colognes"

Jean-Michel Duriez: Starting over After 30 YearsJean-Michel Duriez: Starting over After 30 Years

Fragrance Reviews 02/22/17 09:37 (One comment)

  Last December we reported about the new perfume house launch in Paris – read Alena 's and Sophie 's articles devoted to Jean-Michel Duriez Parfums . For me, the news was a bit like an alluring aroma wafting from the kitchen or a fantastic trailer for a new blockbuster – as an avid fan of Yohji Homme , I try to keep abreast of all Jean-Michel Duriez' new fragrances. And I always thought that most brand frames, even those like Jean Patou and ... (more)

L’Étoile et le Papillon is a neoclassic parfum. Intimate, neither bright nor loud, very modestly expensive.

Interview with Perfumer Tomoo Inaba and Some Rare Shiseido PerfumesInterview with Perfumer Tomoo Inaba and Some Rare Shiseido Perfumes

Fragrances and Cultures 02/14/17 09:12 (7 comments)

For most of us, Japanese perfumes are kind of a thing-in-itself. Like, we all know the Shiseido  corporation as the owner of Serge Lutens and for its fragrances for the Western market like Basala , Feminite du Bois , and  Ever Bloom . I assure you that even the  Shiseido  world is much larger and more diverse – let’s ask Tomoo Inaba, perfumer enthusiast from Japan and the author of the largest Japanese perfume portal , to push aside th... (more)

Suddenly we found that Shiseido is celebrating the centenary of its perfumes in 2017!

Vetyver Nicolaï Parfumeur Créateur: An Eau de Toilette with CharacterVetyver Nicolaï Parfumeur Créateur: An Eau de Toilette with Character

Fragrance Reviews 02/13/17 10:50

The official Nicolai Parfumeur Createur website describes the fragrance  Vetyver as modestly as the other fragrances in their range, with just two sentences: “A spicy woody fragrance created with a combination of vetiver, galbanum and lemon petit grain. An Eau de Toilette with character”. Woody notes at the heart and amber notes in the base are added to these notes. Maybe, we at Fragrantica are a little behind, and in the meantime the fragrance formu... (more)

"Vetyver Nicolaï Parfumeur Créateur is a bold and controversial fragrance, but I think that it's good."

Sous le Manteau: Five Recipes Of Love PotionsSous le Manteau: Five Recipes Of Love Potions

Interviews 02/09/17 09:23 (6 comments)

Attention! In New York's hotel The Pierre from February 6 to 20th you can smell perfumes  Sous le Manteau and meet their creators. Cocktails and pastries from the La Rotunde cafe will make your perfume experience even more enjoyable.   Olivia Bransbourg at the counter Paris, the city of love and perfume, often serves as major locale for perfume stories. The new Parisian perfume brand  Sous le Manteau was introduced to the public i... (more)

Sex, love potions, old reliable recipes and banned books in 5 flacons.

The Festive Aroma Of Golden Powder: The House of OudThe Festive Aroma Of Golden Powder: The House of Oud

Niche Perfumery 02/03/17 06:42 (4 comments)

The House of Oud appeared in 2016 and instantly drew everyone's attention to its unusual decorative flacons. Their appearance is so unconventional that it is not immediately clear how they work. The bottle is standing on its stopper which serves as a foundation for a luxurious looking egg-shaped flacon. The foundation or stopper is the same for all perfumes, but the flacons are all curiously different. Photographs of House of Oud flacons at Esxence by Sandrina ... (more)

More miracles please!...

Reveal Men Calvin Klein: Sea and CaramelReveal Men Calvin Klein: Sea and Caramel

Fragrance Reviews 02/02/17 06:59 (14 comments)

Once there was a time when I did not skip a single one of Calvin Klein's perfumes . I was absolutely convinced that I was witnessing the end of French perfumery and the dawn of the new, American paradigm, and that Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren were creating the future... Now I chuckle over the past, and it happens that I often pass over Calvin Klein's new creations. For example, I didn't smell Reveal Men Calvin Klein until two years after its launch in February 2015. And no... (more)

"Reveal Men Calvin Klein smells as if caramelized popcorn and nutty pastries would've become important notes in men's modern fougeres."

Penhaligon's As a Picture of British AristocracyPenhaligon's As a Picture of British Aristocracy

Fragrance Reviews 02/02/17 06:51 (11 comments)

The British House of  Penhaligon’s has launched a new perfume collection, underlining an aristocratic, "very British", accent in the image of the brand. All four novelties in the  Portraits  collection depict the noble characters: Lord George, Lady Blanche, their daughter Duchess Rose and her husband Duke Nelson. For us to feel the aristocratic idea, each fragrance has its coat of arms on the package, and stoppers of gilded metal are made in the form of a... (more)

Sergey talks about one of the four new fragrances by Penhaligon's

Francesca Bianchi: The Dark side of a Sexy AngelFrancesca Bianchi: The Dark side of a Sexy Angel

Fragrance Reviews 02/01/17 11:54 (One comment)

Italian self-taught perfumer Francesca Bianchi, who lives in Amsterdam now, and her perfumes are based upon the contrast between black and white. How punful are the perfume's names, and how excellently white her own perfume laboratory, from the walls and chairs to the perfume shelves – since her family name is Bianchi, which means white in Italian. The color really is omnipresent. Perfume materials in Francesca's lab Let's loo... (more)

Angel’s dust, sex by the sea and dark shadows are the perfume ideas by Francesca Bianchi.

Under the Istanbul Sky: Amber Sky Ex Nihilo Under the Istanbul Sky: Amber Sky Ex Nihilo

Fragrance Reviews 02/01/17 09:54 (One comment)

The launch of the new Amber Sky fragrance by Ex Nihilo was announced by Sandrina in an article  last year. Now, as the fragrance is appearing in the best chosen stores in the selected countries of distribution, we can actually hold the bottles, try the scent on blotters or evaluate it on our skin and possibly add it to our perfume wardrobe. Surprisingly, this fragrance being inspired by a sunset over the Bosphorus (i.e. the open seaside wit... (more)

"Amber Sky was made to be an oriental amber, with the trendy lactonic, balsamic adornment of a sandalwood and tonka beans accord."

Ambergreen Oliver & Co: Naive and Perfect! Ambergreen Oliver & Co: Naive and Perfect!

Fragrance Reviews 01/31/17 09:12 (3 comments)

Whenever I pull out my Ambergreen Oliver & Co sample, presented to me by Oliver Valverde in September, I can not help but smile. This fragrant green bomb explodes to sweep away city dullness and boredom in any weather. Sweet aromatic basil and other pot herbs, fragrant leaf alcohol (cis-3-hexenol smelling of freshly cut grass), a full measure of other green aroma materials – from tangerine and galbanum to exotic shiso leaves – plus a solar salicylates overdose... (more)

Oliver Valverde is young perfumer who doesn't look back for the old rules, but to the future with new accords and combinations.

Saving Private Perfume: 10 Almost Forgotten PerfumesSaving Private Perfume: 10 Almost Forgotten Perfumes

Columns 01/30/17 09:46 (16 comments)

Somewhere in my past life, I wrote an article in which the most interesting part was its title: “Saved from the stream of Lethe ”. It spoke of ten favorite and familiar masculine scents of yesteryear, unjustly forgotten today and forced to the back of the perfume chest by a burgeoning avalanche of new fashionable niche perfumes. They were hidden by the newest, hyped up releases of famous perfumers and hyper cool brands. I have this desire to write about our favorite perf... (more)

This mission is possible.

Re-Visiting Obsession for Men by Calvin KleinRe-Visiting Obsession for Men by Calvin Klein

Fragrance Reviews 01/28/17 06:47 (6 comments)

No matter what our actual perfume preferences are, we will fondly remember our first perfumes. I try to keep several flacons in my own collection: I went through three editions of Eternity For Men Calvin Klein , I bought the second flacon of Antaeus Chanel , and I own five different Vetivers by Guerlain . There is also a vintage Habit Rouge Guerlain from 1985 and Obsession for Men Calvin Klein (1993). My  Obsession for Men has been luckily out of my reach for al... (more)

"A biker in a worn leather jacket with a can of Coke in his hand... A handful of myrrh tears along with cloves and pepper beads, with cinnamon bark swirls thrust among them."

The Enigma of Sultan Pasha AttarsThe Enigma of Sultan Pasha Attars

Fragrance Reviews 01/26/17 10:26 (14 comments)

There are people who love pastel colors, minimalism and simple compact forms – and there are lovers of bright colors, long novels with many characters and multi-narrative series. There are people who love monotony, and there are fans of mixing. To those who find modern perfumery to be monotonous I’d love to recommend some mixtures by Sultan Pasha Attars , a secret perfume start-up created by a London gentleman with Persian roots. Sultan Pasha Attars seal  of ... (more)

"To those who find modern perfumery to be monotonous I’d love to recommend some mixtures by Sultan Pasha Attars, a secret perfume start-up created by a London gentleman with Persian roots."

Eutopie No10 on the Silk RoadEutopie No10 on the Silk Road

Fragrance Reviews 01/26/17 09:52

Tireless travelers cannot sit still. Fedor Konyukhov probably considers a day at home no longer an option – so does Elodie Pollet Herbeau, art director of French perfume house Eutopie , although she travels now in her imagination, but still does not like to dwell. Eight of her fragrances represented the long road from the Arabian peninsula, through Russia, to her home in Paris (perfumes No 7, 8 and 9 were devoted to the Parisian gardens) – but her ninth fragrance for the brand, ... (more)

Light amber Eutopie No10 is devoted to Samarqand and The Great Silk Road history

Sens Unique Box: From Paris to Your DoorSens Unique Box: From Paris to Your Door

Niche Perfumery 01/13/17 04:56 (12 comments)

The Parisian boutique Sens Unique came up with a unique niche perfumery experience which has not been tried before in France. Now you can enjoy the niche perfumes coming from the heart of Le Marais district without leaving your hometown in the USA, England, Spain, Japan, Australia, and anywhere else in the world. The new launches from the perfume world will come directly to your house in a Sens Unique Box – whether you are in Karakas, Ulan-Bataar, Mysore or Antananarivo.  ... (more)

Now you can enjoy the niche perfumes coming from the heart of Le Marais district without leaving your home

Jardin de France: the primary elements in fragrancesJardin de France: the primary elements in fragrances

Fragrance Reviews 12/30/16 13:07 (2 comments)

People have long wanted to know what the world is made from. In ancient times Fire, Water, Air and Earth were considered such elements, then they were supplemented with a fifth element, which different authors named as Logos, Quintessence, Ether, and even Love (see the film by Luc Besson). French perfume house Jardin de France provided its own interpretation of the elements at Pitti Fragranze 2016. According to Jardin de France , namely its owner Bertrand Sonnier and perfumer Justine Briv... (more)

Sergey reviews the 5 fragrances representing Stone, Earth, Wood, Metal and Leather.

Bracken Man Amouage: Pteridium AquilinumBracken Man Amouage: Pteridium Aquilinum

Fragrance Reviews 12/28/16 10:08 (4 comments)

Long gone are the days when Amouage  fragrances meant oriental chypres, Omani frankincense, and their crystal bottles were tucked in silk nests by the hands of an unknown Fatima, as evidenced by her signature on the quality control business card. The  Amouage  bottles have changed their design, their headquarters have been moved to London, and more than 70 new perfumes were added to the famous Guy Robert creations  Gold and Gold Man from Amouage perfumes &ndas... (more)

Just imagine an Aquiline perfume family appearing instead of the Fougere family!!!

Life without Pyramids: A Nightmare or a Blessing?Life without Pyramids: A Nightmare or a Blessing?

Columns 12/04/16 10:01 (19 comments)

In his wonderful article, Olfactory Pyramid or Perfumer's Nightmare , Mat offered many examples showing that the perfume pyramid is inaccurate description tool and often confuses the buyers who can’t separate notes from ingredients. Does that mean that pyramids should be replaced by some other instruments? I started to comment on his article and soon realized that Mat’s ideas should be continued. I think the point is that the perfume pyramid is a s... (more)

"I think the point is that the perfume pyramid is a special LANGUAGE. It is the mediation language between the professional language of perfumers and the language of fragrance consumers."

4160 Tuesdays: Sarah McCartney Discusses New Scents4160 Tuesdays: Sarah McCartney Discusses New Scents

Niche Perfumery 12/03/16 12:31 (One comment)

Independent perfumer Sarah McCartney (no, not a relative) After I learned about 4160 Tuesdays , the independent perfume brand created by Sarah McCartney from London, tried several of its fragrances, and wrote my review article about it, I was fascinated by the approach. I wanted to learn more, I wanted to try more perfumes made on Tuesdays – I was so inspired. Fortunately for me, Sarah decided to take part in Pitti Fragranze for the first time in 20... (more)

Sergey interviews Sarah at Pitti Fragranze (2016) and discusses new scents from 4160 Tuesdays and Sarah's composition for Urban Reivers - "Damn Rebel Bitches"

Dusita Paris: Anticipating the BestDusita Paris: Anticipating the Best

Fragrance Reviews 11/29/16 11:43 (11 comments)

I can remember my perfume addiction 20-25 years ago. The anticipation of visiting a perfume shop or approaching the perfume boutique in the mall; I was always craving to see the latest bottles and smell something new and beautiful. New names, new brands, new fragrances. Every business trip included at least one  visit to a perfume shop I had never been before. Surprisingly, after all these years, in the era of the internet where information disseminates instantly, and with a war... (more)

Sergey dicovers the two latest Dusita Paris fragrances.

Le Jardin Retrouvé: The New Beginning, Part 2 of 2Le Jardin Retrouvé: The New Beginning, Part 2 of 2

Interviews 11/26/16 09:04 (3 comments)

We continue the interview with Michel Gutsatz upon the relaunch of what many consider to be the very first niche perfume brand, Le Jardin Retrouvé , founded by his father, Yury Gutsatz. You can read the first part HERE . SERGEY BORISOV : Why did you decide to re-start Le Jardin Retrouvé? Are there some new perfumes? What are the conceptual differences from the previous line?  MICHEL GUTSATZ : After my parents’ death I also lost my two br... (more)

Find out how to receive three free samples of the newly re-launched brand!

Les Heures de Cartier: The Mettlesome Fourth HourLes Heures de Cartier: The Mettlesome Fourth Hour

Fragrance Reviews 11/22/16 13:29 (3 comments)

  The fragrance collection Les Heures de Cartier was launched in 2009 as a centenary jubilee salute in honor of the Cartier House. A collection of olfactory moments of pure emotion, these High Perfumery fragrances were tied to the time of day, and by this – to the dial of Cartier watches, known for their special design. Five Les Heures de Cartier fragrances were launched in the first year, after which successors were launched by pairs or in singles each year.... (more)

Sergey's review of IV L'Heure Fougueuse by Cartier.

Ulric de Varens: Fast Fashion ScentsUlric de Varens: Fast Fashion Scents

Fragrance Reviews 11/22/16 08:23

What could be the interest of low-cost and mass brands like Avon , Brocard  or  Ulric de Varens for any perfume lover, let alone perfume snob? There’re two things. The first: their perfumes are designed for masses, for an average customer, so they demonstrate the most powerful existing trends with every launch. Second: their cheap fragrances are available for youngsters, so they form future generations tastes. Drawing a parallel with fashion – mass market fragranc... (more)

Sergey talks about the Ulric de Varens novelties of the year 2016

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New Perfumes



Eau de Cologne Ekstaz (О-де-Колонъ Экстаз)Brocard
Eau de Cologne Ekstaz (О-де-Колонъ Экстаз)

Eau de Cologne Bodrost' (О-де-Колонъ Бодрость)Brocard
Eau de Cologne Bodrost' (О-де-Колонъ Бодрость)

Eau de Cologne Imperial (О-де-Колонъ Имперiаль)Brocard
Eau de Cologne Imperial (О-де-Колонъ Имперiаль)

Eau de Cologne Anti-Stress (О-де-Колонъ Анти-стресс)Brocard
Eau de Cologne Anti-Stress (О-де-Колонъ Анти-стресс)

Neroli a la Cardamome du GuatemalaChopard
Neroli a la Cardamome du Guatemala

Vetver d'Haiti au The VertChopard
Vetver d'Haiti au The Vert

Vanille de MadagascarChopard
Vanille de Madagascar

Magnolia Au Vetiver du HaitiChopard
Magnolia Au Vetiver du Haiti

Jette 7Flowers PeonyJette Joop
Jette 7Flowers Peony

Dirty GingerHeretic Parfums
Dirty Ginger

Elfe RougeLes Contes
Elfe Rouge

Bonheur Pour HommeLes Contes
Bonheur Pour Homme

Leather CopperLalique
Leather Copper

Aromatics Elixir PremierClinique
Aromatics Elixir Premier

VIII Rococo MagnoliaClive Christian
VIII Rococo Magnolia

VIII Rococo ImmortelleClive Christian
VIII Rococo Immortelle

Rose GalanteGelle Freres
Rose Galante

Lys AudacieuxGelle Freres
Lys Audacieux

Miss Dior Eau de Parfum (2017)Christian Dior
Miss Dior Eau de Parfum (2017)

Magnolia BohemeGelle Freres
Magnolia Boheme

Fleur d`Or EnjoueeGelle Freres
Fleur d`Or Enjouee

Ylang Ylang FatalGelle Freres
Ylang Ylang Fatal

Cristal Royal RosePrincesse Marina De Bourbon
Cristal Royal Rose

Coastal Cypress & Sea FennelMolton Brown
Coastal Cypress & Sea Fennel

Profumo Dei SogniCollistar
Profumo Dei Sogni

SunshineNovae Plus

Flower BudNovae Plus
Flower Bud

Morning DewsNovae Plus
Morning Dews

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