Articles by Author Sergey Borisov

Sergey Borisov
Serguey Borisov has been known in the Internet world of perfume under the nickname moon_fish for more than 10 years. Now he writes about perfumes for and, and contributes on the subject for glossy magazines.
[email protected]

Shopping Challenge: Gourmands Under $25 USDShopping Challenge: Gourmands Under $25 USD

Best in Show 03/26/17 09:48 (47 comments)

Surprisingly, one of the most popular genres of modern perfumery is also one of its newest. Many attribute to the rise of dessert-like fragrances - those offering chocolate, caramel, biscuit and even liquer notes - to 1992's groundbreaking Angel by Thierry Mugler and Clarins. And for the past 25 years, the market has seen an exctiing array of variations on gourmand themes. So popular are gourmand fragrances that we've even dedicated a Fragrantica Forum discussion boar... (more)

Our international writers recommend some budget-friendly gourmands. Which are your favorites?

The Bliss Of Al Rayhan Attar Collection The Bliss Of Al Rayhan Attar Collection

Niche Perfumery 03/23/17 08:30 (5 comments)

Today in my Green Smell series of articles in which I call for Spring, I would like to introduce the very new  Al Rayhan Attar Collection perfume that I recently discovered.   I saw a green box and a green bottle and was immensely attracted to it since it was the color I often crave during this time of year. I was not abashed by the deep patterned velvet and the heavy stopper, I was still sure that I was going to smell Spring. And I was curious ho... (more)

While their Western colleagues work on expressing the intense and gourmand Orient, Arabian perfumers explore delicate floral and tender green perfume layers.

A New Kind of Perfume Tea: Wulóng Chá NishaneA New Kind of Perfume Tea: Wulóng Chá Nishane

Niche Perfumery 03/17/17 18:25 (One comment)

The Turkish brand Nishane Istanbul has appeared in my country and has become more reachable than before. I'd like to commemorate this with a review of Wulóng Chá, my favorite creation by the house, and one that focuses on Oolong tea. Wulóng Chá Nishane bergamot, orange, lychee and mandarin; tea and nutmeg; musk and fig. I have to admit that my understanding of what Oolong tea tastes and ... (more)

Sergey is reviewing one of his favorites by Nishane.

Color and Smell, Part I: MimosaColor and Smell, Part I: Mimosa

Columns 03/16/17 22:41 (24 comments)

  Here in Russia we are celebrating the first warm spring days! We were waiting for it for so long that we decided to consecrate a whole series of articles to the spring season and to talk about spring's main flowers and their role in perfumery. Each article of the "Color and Smell" series will consist of two sections: an introduction with Mat's description of a certain flower in perfumery and the types of ra... (more)

This is the first part of a project devoted to spring flowers: we are talking about the smell of mimosa and our favorite fragrances with this note.

Mouthwatering Black Phantom By KilianMouthwatering Black Phantom By Kilian

Fragrance Reviews 03/16/17 06:39 (9 comments)

After Elena's cheerful interpretation of By Kilian's news , it was difficult for me to choose a different approach, but I have tried and abstracted myself from imposed images of its press release and just smelled the perfume. I have to admit, it is worth a tale. Let's disregard the whole show off look and story, and inhale a sweet aroma from the black bottle. I get a bright, spicy, alcoholic flare, momentary, but flashy, which gives away rhum absolute in its compos... (more)

The new By Kilian has been tested.

Khamsin Pour Toujours: Narcissus & Golden StoneKhamsin Pour Toujours: Narcissus & Golden Stone

Fragrance Reviews 03/16/17 06:39 (One comment)

Among a great number of fragrances created in the Parisian perfume laboratory FLAIR, there are six compositions which notably stand out. They were created "for myself", I am talking about Pour Toujours perfume collection by Martine Denisot, who collaborated with Amélie Bourgeois and Anne-Sophie Behaghel . Our Migel Matos has written about FLAIR and published a detailed interview with perfumers , but did not have a chance to describe the perfumes of Pour Toujours. ... (more)

Inspite of its harsh name, this perfume reminds me of wet narcissus flowers.

Green Spring: Angéliques Sous La PluieGreen Spring: Angéliques Sous La Pluie

Fragrance Reviews 03/16/17 06:39 (4 comments)

So it goes that in springtime we are often attracted to green aromas. In cold winter we seek for dense chypres, warm orientals and gourmand perfumes. But when spring comes, you wish to change and revive together with nature. Let's succumb to temptation! Angelica Archangelica Spring comes slowly to Siberia where I live, and I test the readiness of my nose and my mood by gradual exposure to green fragrances. I started with Vetyver Nicolaï Parfumeur Cr&eacu... (more)

Jean-Claude Ellena's fragrance generates rain.

Best in Show: Sandalwood (2017)Best in Show: Sandalwood (2017)

Best in Show 03/12/17 06:57 (42 comments)

Sandalwood has a rich, balsamic, sweet fragrance with delicate wood notes. The oil has a woody, exotic smell, subtle and lingering and the color is pale yellow to pale gold. Sandalwood is a small evergreen tree growing to 18 m in height and 2.4 m in girth, with slender drooping branches. The tree reaches its full maturity in 60 to 80 years, which is when the center of the slender trunk (the heartwood) has achieved its greatest oil content. This classic oriental woody note offers milky... (more)

The documented use of sandalwood goes back 4000 years to India, Egypt, Greece and Rome. Our writers discuss their favorite sandalwood aromas; which are yours?

Best in Show: Jo Malone (2017)Best in Show: Jo Malone (2017)

Best in Show 02/26/17 09:45 (25 comments)

Like the story of Anita Roddick and the very-British The Body Shop, the Jo Malone brand started thanks to the vision and resourcefulness of a single English lady. A florist by day and a beautician by night, Jo was inspired by her dual-natured job, dabbling in beautiful things, to incorporate the lovely scents of her flower business into beauty products that women could savour for longer than a couple of days. Perfume, that most ephemeral pleasure, yet the one prolonging the tempo... (more)

"Customers have embraced the Jo Malone London brand for adherence to refined style and subtlety, the dignified concepts, and the encouragement to layer the colognes"

Jean-Michel Duriez: Starting over After 30 YearsJean-Michel Duriez: Starting over After 30 Years

Fragrance Reviews 02/22/17 09:37 (One comment)

  Last December we reported about the new perfume house launch in Paris – read Alena 's and Sophie 's articles devoted to Jean-Michel Duriez Parfums . For me, the news was a bit like an alluring aroma wafting from the kitchen or a fantastic trailer for a new blockbuster – as an avid fan of Yohji Homme , I try to keep abreast of all Jean-Michel Duriez' new fragrances. And I always thought that most brand frames, even those like Jean Patou and ... (more)

L’Étoile et le Papillon is a neoclassic parfum. Intimate, neither bright nor loud, very modestly expensive.

Interview with Perfumer Tomoo Inaba and Some Rare Shiseido PerfumesInterview with Perfumer Tomoo Inaba and Some Rare Shiseido Perfumes

Fragrances and Cultures 02/14/17 09:12 (7 comments)

For most of us, Japanese perfumes are kind of a thing-in-itself. Like, we all know the Shiseido  corporation as the owner of Serge Lutens and for its fragrances for the Western market like Basala , Feminite du Bois , and  Ever Bloom . I assure you that even the  Shiseido  world is much larger and more diverse – let’s ask Tomoo Inaba, perfumer enthusiast from Japan and the author of the largest Japanese perfume portal , to push aside th... (more)

Suddenly we found that Shiseido is celebrating the centenary of its perfumes in 2017!

Vetyver Nicolaï Parfumeur Créateur: An Eau de Toilette with CharacterVetyver Nicolaï Parfumeur Créateur: An Eau de Toilette with Character

Fragrance Reviews 02/13/17 10:50

The official Nicolai Parfumeur Createur website describes the fragrance  Vetyver as modestly as the other fragrances in their range, with just two sentences: “A spicy woody fragrance created with a combination of vetiver, galbanum and lemon petit grain. An Eau de Toilette with character”. Woody notes at the heart and amber notes in the base are added to these notes. Maybe, we at Fragrantica are a little behind, and in the meantime the fragrance formu... (more)

"Vetyver Nicolaï Parfumeur Créateur is a bold and controversial fragrance, but I think that it's good."

Sous le Manteau: Five Recipes Of Love PotionsSous le Manteau: Five Recipes Of Love Potions

Interviews 02/09/17 09:23 (6 comments)

Attention! In New York's hotel The Pierre from February 6 to 20th you can smell perfumes  Sous le Manteau and meet their creators. Cocktails and pastries from the La Rotunde cafe will make your perfume experience even more enjoyable.   Olivia Bransbourg at the counter Paris, the city of love and perfume, often serves as major locale for perfume stories. The new Parisian perfume brand  Sous le Manteau was introduced to the public i... (more)

Sex, love potions, old reliable recipes and banned books in 5 flacons.

The Festive Aroma Of Golden Powder: The House of OudThe Festive Aroma Of Golden Powder: The House of Oud

Niche Perfumery 02/03/17 06:42 (4 comments)

The House of Oud appeared in 2016 and instantly drew everyone's attention to its unusual decorative flacons. Their appearance is so unconventional that it is not immediately clear how they work. The bottle is standing on its stopper which serves as a foundation for a luxurious looking egg-shaped flacon. The foundation or stopper is the same for all perfumes, but the flacons are all curiously different. Photographs of House of Oud flacons at Esxence by Sandrina ... (more)

More miracles please!...

Reveal Men Calvin Klein: Sea and CaramelReveal Men Calvin Klein: Sea and Caramel

Fragrance Reviews 02/02/17 06:59 (14 comments)

Once there was a time when I did not skip a single one of Calvin Klein's perfumes . I was absolutely convinced that I was witnessing the end of French perfumery and the dawn of the new, American paradigm, and that Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren were creating the future... Now I chuckle over the past, and it happens that I often pass over Calvin Klein's new creations. For example, I didn't smell Reveal Men Calvin Klein until two years after its launch in February 2015. And no... (more)

"Reveal Men Calvin Klein smells as if caramelized popcorn and nutty pastries would've become important notes in men's modern fougeres."

Penhaligon's As a Picture of British AristocracyPenhaligon's As a Picture of British Aristocracy

Fragrance Reviews 02/02/17 06:51 (11 comments)

The British House of  Penhaligon’s has launched a new perfume collection, underlining an aristocratic, "very British", accent in the image of the brand. All four novelties in the  Portraits  collection depict the noble characters: Lord George, Lady Blanche, their daughter Duchess Rose and her husband Duke Nelson. For us to feel the aristocratic idea, each fragrance has its coat of arms on the package, and stoppers of gilded metal are made in the form of a... (more)

Sergey talks about one of the four new fragrances by Penhaligon's

Francesca Bianchi: The Dark side of a Sexy AngelFrancesca Bianchi: The Dark side of a Sexy Angel

Fragrance Reviews 02/01/17 11:54 (One comment)

Italian self-taught perfumer Francesca Bianchi, who lives in Amsterdam now, and her perfumes are based upon the contrast between black and white. How punful are the perfume's names, and how excellently white her own perfume laboratory, from the walls and chairs to the perfume shelves – since her family name is Bianchi, which means white in Italian. The color really is omnipresent. Perfume materials in Francesca's lab Let's loo... (more)

Angel’s dust, sex by the sea and dark shadows are the perfume ideas by Francesca Bianchi.

Under the Istanbul Sky: Amber Sky Ex Nihilo Under the Istanbul Sky: Amber Sky Ex Nihilo

Fragrance Reviews 02/01/17 09:54 (One comment)

The launch of the new Amber Sky fragrance by Ex Nihilo was announced by Sandrina in an article  last year. Now, as the fragrance is appearing in the best chosen stores in the selected countries of distribution, we can actually hold the bottles, try the scent on blotters or evaluate it on our skin and possibly add it to our perfume wardrobe. Surprisingly, this fragrance being inspired by a sunset over the Bosphorus (i.e. the open seaside wit... (more)

"Amber Sky was made to be an oriental amber, with the trendy lactonic, balsamic adornment of a sandalwood and tonka beans accord."

Ambergreen Oliver & Co: Naive and Perfect! Ambergreen Oliver & Co: Naive and Perfect!

Fragrance Reviews 01/31/17 09:12 (3 comments)

Whenever I pull out my Ambergreen Oliver & Co sample, presented to me by Oliver Valverde in September, I can not help but smile. This fragrant green bomb explodes to sweep away city dullness and boredom in any weather. Sweet aromatic basil and other pot herbs, fragrant leaf alcohol (cis-3-hexenol smelling of freshly cut grass), a full measure of other green aroma materials – from tangerine and galbanum to exotic shiso leaves – plus a solar salicylates overdose... (more)

Oliver Valverde is young perfumer who doesn't look back for the old rules, but to the future with new accords and combinations.

Saving Private Perfume: 10 Almost Forgotten PerfumesSaving Private Perfume: 10 Almost Forgotten Perfumes

Columns 01/30/17 09:46 (16 comments)

Somewhere in my past life, I wrote an article in which the most interesting part was its title: “Saved from the stream of Lethe ”. It spoke of ten favorite and familiar masculine scents of yesteryear, unjustly forgotten today and forced to the back of the perfume chest by a burgeoning avalanche of new fashionable niche perfumes. They were hidden by the newest, hyped up releases of famous perfumers and hyper cool brands. I have this desire to write about our favorite perf... (more)

This mission is possible.

Re-Visiting Obsession for Men by Calvin KleinRe-Visiting Obsession for Men by Calvin Klein

Fragrance Reviews 01/28/17 06:47 (6 comments)

No matter what our actual perfume preferences are, we will fondly remember our first perfumes. I try to keep several flacons in my own collection: I went through three editions of Eternity For Men Calvin Klein , I bought the second flacon of Antaeus Chanel , and I own five different Vetivers by Guerlain . There is also a vintage Habit Rouge Guerlain from 1985 and Obsession for Men Calvin Klein (1993). My  Obsession for Men has been luckily out of my reach for al... (more)

"A biker in a worn leather jacket with a can of Coke in his hand... A handful of myrrh tears along with cloves and pepper beads, with cinnamon bark swirls thrust among them."

The Enigma of Sultan Pasha AttarsThe Enigma of Sultan Pasha Attars

Fragrance Reviews 01/26/17 10:26 (14 comments)

There are people who love pastel colors, minimalism and simple compact forms – and there are lovers of bright colors, long novels with many characters and multi-narrative series. There are people who love monotony, and there are fans of mixing. To those who find modern perfumery to be monotonous I’d love to recommend some mixtures by Sultan Pasha Attars , a secret perfume start-up created by a London gentleman with Persian roots. Sultan Pasha Attars seal  of ... (more)

"To those who find modern perfumery to be monotonous I’d love to recommend some mixtures by Sultan Pasha Attars, a secret perfume start-up created by a London gentleman with Persian roots."

Eutopie No10 on the Silk RoadEutopie No10 on the Silk Road

Fragrance Reviews 01/26/17 09:52

Tireless travelers cannot sit still. Fedor Konyukhov probably considers a day at home no longer an option – so does Elodie Pollet Herbeau, art director of French perfume house Eutopie , although she travels now in her imagination, but still does not like to dwell. Eight of her fragrances represented the long road from the Arabian peninsula, through Russia, to her home in Paris (perfumes No 7, 8 and 9 were devoted to the Parisian gardens) – but her ninth fragrance for the brand, ... (more)

Light amber Eutopie No10 is devoted to Samarqand and The Great Silk Road history

Sens Unique Box: From Paris to Your DoorSens Unique Box: From Paris to Your Door

Niche Perfumery 01/13/17 04:56 (12 comments)

The Parisian boutique Sens Unique came up with a unique niche perfumery experience which has not been tried before in France. Now you can enjoy the niche perfumes coming from the heart of Le Marais district without leaving your hometown in the USA, England, Spain, Japan, Australia, and anywhere else in the world. The new launches from the perfume world will come directly to your house in a Sens Unique Box – whether you are in Karakas, Ulan-Bataar, Mysore or Antananarivo.  ... (more)

Now you can enjoy the niche perfumes coming from the heart of Le Marais district without leaving your home

Jardin de France: the primary elements in fragrancesJardin de France: the primary elements in fragrances

Fragrance Reviews 12/30/16 13:07 (2 comments)

People have long wanted to know what the world is made from. In ancient times Fire, Water, Air and Earth were considered such elements, then they were supplemented with a fifth element, which different authors named as Logos, Quintessence, Ether, and even Love (see the film by Luc Besson). French perfume house Jardin de France provided its own interpretation of the elements at Pitti Fragranze 2016. According to Jardin de France , namely its owner Bertrand Sonnier and perfumer Justine Briv... (more)

Sergey reviews the 5 fragrances representing Stone, Earth, Wood, Metal and Leather.

Bracken Man Amouage: Pteridium AquilinumBracken Man Amouage: Pteridium Aquilinum

Fragrance Reviews 12/28/16 10:08 (4 comments)

Long gone are the days when Amouage  fragrances meant oriental chypres, Omani frankincense, and their crystal bottles were tucked in silk nests by the hands of an unknown Fatima, as evidenced by her signature on the quality control business card. The  Amouage  bottles have changed their design, their headquarters have been moved to London, and more than 70 new perfumes were added to the famous Guy Robert creations  Gold and Gold Man from Amouage perfumes &ndas... (more)

Just imagine an Aquiline perfume family appearing instead of the Fougere family!!!

Life without Pyramids: A Nightmare or a Blessing?Life without Pyramids: A Nightmare or a Blessing?

Columns 12/04/16 10:01 (19 comments)

In his wonderful article, Olfactory Pyramid or Perfumer's Nightmare , Mat offered many examples showing that the perfume pyramid is inaccurate description tool and often confuses the buyers who can’t separate notes from ingredients. Does that mean that pyramids should be replaced by some other instruments? I started to comment on his article and soon realized that Mat’s ideas should be continued. I think the point is that the perfume pyramid is a s... (more)

"I think the point is that the perfume pyramid is a special LANGUAGE. It is the mediation language between the professional language of perfumers and the language of fragrance consumers."

4160 Tuesdays: Sarah McCartney Discusses New Scents4160 Tuesdays: Sarah McCartney Discusses New Scents

Niche Perfumery 12/03/16 12:31 (One comment)

Independent perfumer Sarah McCartney (no, not a relative) After I learned about 4160 Tuesdays , the independent perfume brand created by Sarah McCartney from London, tried several of its fragrances, and wrote my review article about it, I was fascinated by the approach. I wanted to learn more, I wanted to try more perfumes made on Tuesdays – I was so inspired. Fortunately for me, Sarah decided to take part in Pitti Fragranze for the first time in 20... (more)

Sergey interviews Sarah at Pitti Fragranze (2016) and discusses new scents from 4160 Tuesdays and Sarah's composition for Urban Reivers - "Damn Rebel Bitches"

Dusita Paris: Anticipating the BestDusita Paris: Anticipating the Best

Fragrance Reviews 11/29/16 11:43 (11 comments)

I can remember my perfume addiction 20-25 years ago. The anticipation of visiting a perfume shop or approaching the perfume boutique in the mall; I was always craving to see the latest bottles and smell something new and beautiful. New names, new brands, new fragrances. Every business trip included at least one  visit to a perfume shop I had never been before. Surprisingly, after all these years, in the era of the internet where information disseminates instantly, and with a war... (more)

Sergey dicovers the two latest Dusita Paris fragrances.

Le Jardin Retrouvé: The New Beginning, Part 2 of 2Le Jardin Retrouvé: The New Beginning, Part 2 of 2

Interviews 11/26/16 09:04 (3 comments)

We continue the interview with Michel Gutsatz upon the relaunch of what many consider to be the very first niche perfume brand, Le Jardin Retrouvé , founded by his father, Yury Gutsatz. You can read the first part HERE . SERGEY BORISOV : Why did you decide to re-start Le Jardin Retrouvé? Are there some new perfumes? What are the conceptual differences from the previous line?  MICHEL GUTSATZ : After my parents’ death I also lost my two br... (more)

Find out how to receive three free samples of the newly re-launched brand!

Les Heures de Cartier: The Mettlesome Fourth HourLes Heures de Cartier: The Mettlesome Fourth Hour

Fragrance Reviews 11/22/16 13:29 (3 comments)

  The fragrance collection Les Heures de Cartier was launched in 2009 as a centenary jubilee salute in honor of the Cartier House. A collection of olfactory moments of pure emotion, these High Perfumery fragrances were tied to the time of day, and by this – to the dial of Cartier watches, known for their special design. Five Les Heures de Cartier fragrances were launched in the first year, after which successors were launched by pairs or in singles each year.... (more)

Sergey's review of IV L'Heure Fougueuse by Cartier.

Ulric de Varens: Fast Fashion ScentsUlric de Varens: Fast Fashion Scents

Fragrance Reviews 11/22/16 08:23

What could be the interest of low-cost and mass brands like Avon , Brocard  or  Ulric de Varens for any perfume lover, let alone perfume snob? There’re two things. The first: their perfumes are designed for masses, for an average customer, so they demonstrate the most powerful existing trends with every launch. Second: their cheap fragrances are available for youngsters, so they form future generations tastes. Drawing a parallel with fashion – mass market fragranc... (more)

Sergey talks about the Ulric de Varens novelties of the year 2016

Best in Show: The Perfumes of Sonia ConstantBest in Show: The Perfumes of Sonia Constant

Best in Show 11/13/16 06:37 (6 comments)

As writers for Fragrantica, we are fortunate to become familiar with the work of our peers and gain access to information this way. Fellow writer Sergey Borisov  conducted such an intriguing and insightful interview with perfumer Sonia Constant that we knew we’d love to explore her work at greater length. It is with this thought in mind that we present our latest Best in Show highlighting perfumer  Sonia Constant . Looking at the wide breadth of her... (more)

Creator of the immensely popular Tom Ford Noir Pour Femme, Sonia Constant is a fascinating force in contemporary perfumery.

Sang Bleu Le GalionSang Bleu Le Galion

Niche Perfumery 11/08/16 10:38 (One comment)

Perfume house Le Galion , reborn in 2014 under leadership of Nicolas Chabot, introduced their new perfume at the September exhibition Pitti Fragranze 2016 in Florence – its name: Sang Bleu (Blue Blood). Unlike previous scents that were recovered from the past ( Snob , Sortilège , Vetiver ) or created to meet the modern tastes of the 21st century ( Cologne Nocturne , Aesthete , Sovereign ) – the newest fragrance has both roots. Sang Bleu Le Gal... (more)

"Sang Bleu will be equally praised by those who like modern, powerful, and full-blooded animalistic niche perfumes as by vintage perfume lovers."

Barrel MiN New York: A Barrel with a Black SoulBarrel MiN New York: A Barrel with a Black Soul

Niche Perfumery 11/08/16 09:03 (9 comments)

Two years ago, I lamented that the American perfume boutique MiN New York  presented its own collection of eleven fragrances at Pitti Fragranze 2014 without any samples. It was surprising that Chad Murawczyk and Mindy Yang forgot about them considering all their experience in the world of niche perfumes. But even more amazing was that after a couple of years, I found all the MiN New York fragrances in my Siberian city. And where? Where they were least expected – in the ... (more)

Sergey reviews the fragrance Barrel from the New-York based brand MiN New York.

YVRA 1958: Eau de Cologne for OneselfYVRA 1958: Eau de Cologne for Oneself

Niche Perfumery 11/04/16 05:31 (3 comments)

The new perfume house YVRA 1958 was presented at Pitti Fragranze in September 2016 for the very first time. Its first fragrance YVRA 1958 was presented by Yvo Van Regteren Altena, a Dutch lifestyle journalist with many years of experience writing for publications such as Quote, NRC Handelsblad, Esquire , and many others. His tastes were the starting point for the cologne and it’s easy to guess that the name YVRA 1958 is the acronym out of Yvo's full name and his year o... (more)

"A spicy citrus cologne that also happens to have a thin, low and stable woody drydown. Cologne with a concentration of 20% was once a rarity – now anything can happen."

Astier de Villatte: Not Only Colognes Astier de Villatte: Not Only Colognes

Niche Perfumery 11/03/16 07:43

Designers of furniture and white ceramics, Ivan Pericoli and Benoît Astier de Villatte founded their company in 1996 in association with their friends and family. The successor to a Parisian manufacturer established in the XVIII century, Astier de Villatte  is now the only major studio in Paris to keep the tradition of artisanal ceramic production alive. In 2000, they opened a boutique at 173, rue Saint Honore, where the full range is presented – from titanium cutlery ... (more)

Sergey tells us about French perfume House Astier de Villate

Atelier des Ors: A Red and Golden IrisAtelier des Ors: A Red and Golden Iris

Interviews 11/02/16 10:26 (3 comments)

  Jean-Philippe Clermont. We still have conversations from and new perfumes presented at the Florentine exhibition Pitti Fragranze 2016 to share with you. Here, we would like to give an update on the French perfume house Atelier des Ors , coming from the art director and founder of the house Jean-Philippe Clermont. SERGEY : What’s the new perfume you are presenting in Florence? The last time we met, at the Esxence exposition in Milan, you were still d... (more)

Sergey talks with Jean-Philipp Clermont of Atelier des Ors

Nomenclature: The Nomenclature GuysNomenclature: The Nomenclature Guys

Interviews 11/01/16 10:19

  Karl Bradl and Carlos Quintero, founders of Nomenclature. One of my best discoveries of Pitti Fragranze 2016 was made when meeting with the Nomenclature guys, Karl Bradl and Carlos Quintero. The brand had a mega-successful first appearance last year – the Pitti visitors had taken all the provided samples by the end of the first day. Their simplistic harmonious fragrances are built upon the concept that man-designed perfume materials should be the ... (more)

Sergey talks with the founders of the brand Nomenclature.

Visiting Lorenzo Villoresi: Boutique, Garden and Much MoreVisiting Lorenzo Villoresi: Boutique, Garden and Much More

Columns 10/17/16 12:12 (One comment)

Lorenzo Villoresi 's brand doesn't indulge their fans with news too often. In fact, it seems like it doesn't seek to give a lot of perfume information at all: plans for the opening of a museum and an academy have already been postponed for several years, and their fragrances were launched without any special events or tributes for the general public. On the 8th of September 2016, on the eve of the Pitti Fragranze exhibition in Florence, the  Fr... (more)

The Fragrantica Russia team visited the Lorenzo Villoresi boutique and shares their impressions with you

An Unknown Russian Perfumer: Yuri Gutsatz and Le Jardin Retrouvé, Part 1 of 2An Unknown Russian Perfumer: Yuri Gutsatz and Le Jardin Retrouvé, Part 1 of 2

Interviews 10/15/16 08:48 (5 comments)

Once there was a time when perfumers were unknown workers. From the advertising, customers could find out the brand name and the perfume name – but not the name of its creator. One of those unknown perfumers was Yuri Gutsatz, an emigrant from Russia (1914-2005). Born in the family of chemist David Gutsatz in St. Petersburg, he was separated from his father when he was a 10-year-old boy: the family moved to Berlin and his father stayed in the USSR. David Gutsatz, chem... (more)

It seems that the father of niche perfumery has been identified.

Ombú ALTAIA: Argentinian HospitalityOmbú ALTAIA: Argentinian Hospitality

Interviews 10/11/16 09:36 (3 comments)

Sebastian Alvarez Murena and Marina Sersale of Eau d'Italie and ALTAIA. My interview with Sebastian Alvarez Murena of Eau d’Italie and ALTAIA about the new perfume  Ombú started with a silly mistake on my side. Twenty minutes into our conversation I realized that I forgot to press the record button! But Sebastian would not be himself, if he had not suggested to start our conversation all over again, feeling for my disaster, and I am very grate... (more)

We talk to Sebastian and Marina of Altaia, and smell their new perfume Ombú.

To The Unknown PerfumerTo The Unknown Perfumer

Interviews 10/10/16 16:38 (6 comments)

Once there was a time, when perfumers were unknown workers. Looking at advertisements, customers knew the brand name and its perfume, and did not know nor care about its real creator. One of those unknown perfumers was Yury Gutsatz (1914-2005), an emigrant from Russia. Born in the family of chemist David Gutsatz in St. Petersburg, he was separated from his father when he was a 10-year-old boy: the family moved to Berlin and his father stayed in the USSR.   Davi... (more)

He could be called the father of the niche perfumery, together with Jean-Francois Laporte.

Beaufort London: Fragrances Born in The DarkBeaufort London: Fragrances Born in The Dark

Interviews 10/06/16 03:28 (2 comments)

As we promised in the Fathom V by Beaufort London review , we met with art-director and musician Leo Crabtree to ask some questions about his much talked about brand. He was happy to get some fresh air and step away from Fragranze's heavily perfumed hall. SERGEY BORISOV: I believe that the distance between professional music and professional perfumery is quite big. How did you come to perfumery? LEO CRABTREE: Well, perfumery for me is totally another pa... (more)

Interview with Leo Crabtree, the art director of Beaufort London.

Olfactory Pearl Rahele: A New Journey by Neela VermeireOlfactory Pearl Rahele: A New Journey by Neela Vermeire

Interviews 10/03/16 12:29 (2 comments)

  Neela Vermeire, art-director of Neela Vermeire Creations. We waited and longed for a long time, and a miracle happened! After revealing that the next chapter of Neela Vermeire Creations 's fragrant saga will be “something completely different” – Neela herself opened up the first page at the Pitti Fragranze event in September 2016 in Florence. And the new perfume is not about India – well, actually, it’s about historical l... (more)

There are years of growth, years of impressions in a pearl. The same goes for Bertrand and Neela fragrances, those universes in a bottle...

Dubhe Assoluto Tiziana Terenzi: On the Edge of the Big DipperDubhe Assoluto Tiziana Terenzi: On the Edge of the Big Dipper

Niche Perfumery 09/30/16 10:32 (3 comments)

I'm not a big fan of rhinestones and gold leaf, but I must admit that sometimes they correspond to the brand concept quite logically. Thus, the history of the stars and constellations, shining in the night sky (along with their divine origin from ancient mythology), used by Paolo Terenzi to create new perfumes are concepts that require the brilliance of crystals and shiny metal. The announced, but not launched yet, new perfume of the  Tiziana Terenzi   Assoluto c... (more)

A bear of a fragrance utilizing 50 year old oud.

Pitti Fragranze: Cuir Andalou Rania J.Pitti Fragranze: Cuir Andalou Rania J.

Niche Perfumery 09/29/16 10:30 (3 comments)

Perfumer Rania Jouaneh. In August, when Fragrantica editors split all the perfume brands to cover on the then upcoming Pitti Fragranze exhibition, I planned that Rania J. brand should be mine. The reason was that six months ago, in Milano, perfumer Rania Jouaneh let me smell a new “almost ready” leather perfume and said it’s planned to be launched in Florence. Although leather perfumes make up about a third of my collection, I really liked the novelty (as well... (more)

News from the Rania J. niche perfume house.

Fiore di Portofino and Regina: Two New Fragrances by MoresqueFiore di Portofino and Regina: Two New Fragrances by Moresque

Niche Perfumery 09/29/16 08:55

Italian perfume house Moresque announced the launch of the two new perfumes: flowery, ambery Fiore di Portofino and floriental, powdery Regina. You can already find  Fiore di Portofino  perfume on the official Moresque  website. It’s the third perfume in the  Moresque Art Collection  after Aristoqrati  and Contessa  fragrances. The marvelous design of Moresque traditional fragrance bottles combines colored glass and golden leaves, tradi... (more)

Italian brand Moresque announced two new fragrances: cool, flowery-ambery Fiore di Portofino and floriental-powdery Regina.

Perfume School Givaudan Celebrates 70th Anniversary!Perfume School Givaudan Celebrates 70th Anniversary!

Art Books Events 09/28/16 22:59 (2 comments)

In 1946, the legendary creator of Ma Griffe and  Miss Dior , perfumer  Jean Carles , opened a perfume school in Grasse, then called the Roure Perfumery School. This fall, the school is celebrating 70 years of existence! Jean Carles developed a special study technique based on memorizing smells and nuances of different materials, similar and opposite, and their classification into 15 families. It is available to everyone and widely used.   Jean Carl... (more)

Our congratulations to the celebrating perfume school!

Neroli Animalis: Blooming In A StableNeroli Animalis: Blooming In A Stable

Interviews 09/16/16 14:04

I'd like to start my report about new fragrances from Pitti Fragranze 2016 with a perfume which combines two of my favorite features, – citrus flower and animalic accord – it is Neroli Animalis by Maison Incens . Horse and flower. At the Maison Incens booth, I sprayed the fragrance on my skin and at a paper blotter, and asked Philippe Constantin about his new creation. Sergey Borisov: The name of your new fragrance explains itself – Neroli... (more)

Serguey talks with Philippe Constantin of Maison Incens about his new Neroli Animalis.

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