Cashmeran

Group: MUSK, AMBER, ANIMALIC SMELLS

Cashmeran
Cashmeran
Cashmeran
Odor profile: Synthetic note with musky, woody, wet concrete facets, very popular with modern fragrance releases


Among the many popular synthetic ingredients in the perfumer's palette today some are used more frequently than others. Be it thanks to their pliability, which fits like a glove many diverse compositions of different fragrance families, or thanks to their diffusiveness and tenacity, they form the core of many a modern perfume formula. Cashmeran is definitely among them; a synthetic not found in nature but copiously used in products we use every day.
 

NAME, IMPRESSIONS & REALITY

The proper name of Cashmeran is 1,2,3,5,6,7-hexahydro-1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4h-inden-4-one. Though commonly refered to as "blond woods" in perfume speak, the reality is that the ingredient Cashmeran (an International Flavors and Fragrances appelation) is actually a musk component with a yellow, trickly texture. Its scent profile takes over a vast sea between woods and ambers, abstract and indefinable.

The name Cashmeran derives from its tactile feel which recalls the smoothness and softness of cashmere wool. Among the first perfumes to use it in a considerable degree is Loulou by Cacharel. It was also used prominently in Sexy Grafitti by Escada (2002). Tempting though it may be to imagine that modern best-seller Cashmere Mist by Donna Karan (1994) is full of it, in reality the powdery soft perfume doesn't use it.

CASHMERAN IN PERFUME COMPOSITION


Insoluble in water and hydrophobic, it's therefore a prime target for use in functional perfumery too, since it won't rinse out: detergents, fabric softener, alcoholic lotions, deodorants, shampoos, you name it... But fine perfumery has profited of its advantages as well.
 

The diffusive, musky-woody scent is reminiscent of concrete (especially the abstract woody scent that concrete gives when hit upon by rain, a cityscape in the rain), also lightly spicy, lightly powdery. Though perfumers sometimes describe it to also have apple and pine facets I admit I haven't detected these myself. It is however used as a powerful floralizer as it aids the expansion and diffusion of floral notes, especially accords of jasmine, as in Thierry Mugler's Alien or the lighter Flora Nerolia by Guerlain (where it's married to neroli and frankincense as well). In Histoires de Parfums' Tuberose Trilogy, Gislain chose to include the note in the Tubereuse Virginal offering, where blond woods coexist with naturally cohabitating, heady white flowers on a base of patchouli and vanilla.



Blending well with other modern ingredients (ambroxan, allyl amyl glycolate, damascones, ethyl maltol...) as well as natural ingredients (frankincense, clary sage, citrus, geraniol, linalool, patchouli, tonka bean, vetiver, etc.), Cashmeran presents a vista of options for the creative perfumer. It can serve woody or warm musk compositions (see Miami Glow by JLo), formulae resting on rose and saffron, tobacco or oud masculine blends (see Nomaoud by Comptoir Sud Pacifique or Byredo's Accord Oud), even perfumes with jonquil or cassie. It can even aid aqueous olfactory scapes, such as in Armani's Acqua di Gioia Essenza.



Another one of the advantages of this fairly inexpensive musky component is that it has a medium potency in volume projection, but a long trail that surpasses a full day's length. Being a mild sensitiser, its ratio is currently restricted to no more than 2% of the compound. It's clear we will be seeing it more and more admitted as such in official perfume press releases in the years to come.


Author: Elena Vosnaki is a historian & perfume writer from Greece and a Writer to Fragrantica. She is the founder and editor of Perfume Shrine, one of the most respected independent online publications on perfume containing fragrance reviews, industry interviews, essays on raw materials and perfume history, a winner in Fragrantica Blog Awards and a finalist in numerous blog awards contests. Her writing was recognised at the Fifi Awards for Editorial Excellence in 2009 and she has been contributing to publications around the world.
 

 

Cashmeran Perfumes

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Egeo Atraia O Boticario
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Alien Pierre Initiatique Edition Mugler
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Alien Pierre Magique Mugler
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Cashmere & Musk Strenesse
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Killer Queen Katy Perry
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Alien Eau de Toilette Mugler
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Alien Divine Ornamentations Mugler
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Wonderwood Comme des Garcons
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Alien Eau Extraordinaire Mugler
1.2839225026455
Reveal Calvin Klein
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Amethyst Jean-Pierre Sand
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Seductive Musk Oriflame
1.2676140282187
Hugo Just Different Hugo Boss
1.2668917813051
Cordon d'Or Charrier Parfums
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Alien Édition Talisman Mugler
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Dolce Dolce&Gabbana
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Davidoff Cool Water Sea Rose Coral Reef Edition Davidoff
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The Big Bad Cedar Atkinsons
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LOANT Santi Burgas
1.2374690846561
Alien Sunessence EDT Legere Mugler
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Silver Rain Sheer Mist La Prairie
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Mysteria Miro
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Rodrigo Faro Único Jequiti
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Tamima Moresque
1.215506031746
Al Attar Al Thameen Al Bahy Rasasi
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Eau de Lacoste L.12.12. Noir Lacoste
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Enchanted Midnight Spell Chopard
1.1859428483245
Lady Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.185185
V G Parfums
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Versailles Passion Pour Elle Parfums du Château de Versailles
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Alien Eau Extraordinaire Gold Shimmer Mugler
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Dans Tes Bras Frederic Malle
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L'Amour Fou L'Elixir Emanuel Ungaro
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Black Saffron Byredo
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Red Carpet Attitude Angelina Lola Mood Parfums
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Eau Mage Diptyque
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Acqua di Gioia Essenza Giorgio Armani
1.168990675485
Jaipur Bracelet Boucheron
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Alien Liqueur de Parfum Mugler
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Steampunk Erik Kormann
1.1656868800705
Poison Girl Christian Dior
1.1643034885362
By the Fireplace Maison Martin Margiela
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Dancing On The Moon Maison Martin Margiela
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Blomma Cult Room 1015
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Signorina Eau de Toilette Salvatore Ferragamo
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Contemporary Tuberose La Perla
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Pas Сe Soir Parfums BDK Paris
1.1538235626102
Make B. Urban Ballet O Boticario
1.1513238465608
Pop Collection CoSTUME NATIONAL
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Burberry Body Gold Limited Edition Burberry
1.1462771640212
Night of Fancy Anna Sui
1.1460039382716
Collezione Privata Essenza di Aoud Pal Zileri
1.142857
Lavanda Enfeitada Avon
1.1427717830688
Laine de Verre Serge Lutens
1.1409282504409
Bouquet Massai 10.1 Pierre Guillaume
1.1409168447972
Orchid Prairie Rasasi
1.1401075079365
Unforgettable Christina Aguilera
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Black Orchid Ana Hickmann
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Karl Lagerfeld Private Klub for Women Karl Lagerfeld
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Perle Rare Panouge
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Alien Oud Majestueux Mugler
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Gardenia Robert Piguet
1.136364
CIEL Pour Femme CIEL Parfum
1.1358475643739
Red Hoba Xerjoff
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Sultry Drew Barrymore
1.1345197195767
Korloff In White Korloff Paris
1.133333
Bond St Yardley
1.1318335326279
Alpha Avon
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French Club Alain Daniel
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Amber Flash Tauerville
1.1305985149912
XJ 1861 Naxos Xerjoff
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Rosa Tous
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My Scent Trussardi
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White Flowers M. Micallef
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Un Amore Eterno Roja Dove
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Avon Homem Up Avon
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Step Sexy Avon
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Living Lalique Lalique
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Cool Water Night Dive Davidoff
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Tubereuse Mona di Orio
1.1188772557319
Intelligence & Fantasy The Beautiful Mind Series
1.1178717813051
Mazyon Blend Oud
1.1166528201058
Violette Fumee Mona di Orio
1.1162747195767
Vetiver Matale Pierre Guillaume
1.1156498130511
Dry Wood Ramon Monegal
1.1150423791887
Armani Prive Rouge Malachite Giorgio Armani
1.1130898765432
Panama Borsalino
1.1128607195767
Classica Sospiro Perfumes
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Perry Ellis Cobalt Perry Ellis
1.1116538447972
Nomaoud Comptoir Sud Pacifique
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Breath Of The Infinite The House of Oud
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Venetian Bergamot Tom Ford
1.1102899382716
Fierce Intense Abercrombie & Fitch
1.1079990017637
Step into Sexy Avon
1.1069531940035
Al-Khat Xerjoff
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Make me Fever Mahogany
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Bond Girl 007 Avon
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Fleur de Cristal Lalique
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L'Homme Libre Cologne Tonic Yves Saint Laurent
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Galimard Star Galimard
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Symphonie-Passion Unum
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True Replay for Her Replay
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Slow Explosions Imaginary Authors
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Aigner N°1 Oud Etienne Aigner
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Spring Reign Katy Perry
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Peoneve Penhaligon`s
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Fantome de Maules Stora Skuggan
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Boucheron Quatre Boucheron
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Capriccio Sospiro Perfumes
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Brilliant Al Musbah
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Allegro Sospiro Perfumes
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Countess Lui Niche
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LIL Olympic Orchids Artisan Perfumes
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Foudre Pierre Guillaume
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Ballerina No 3 Les Parfums de Rosine
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Eau de Fleurs Lavande Chloe
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Patchouli Intense Molinard
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Shams Narcissus Memo Paris
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Iris Violet Alexandre.J
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Flowerbomb La Vie En Rose 2014 Viktor&Rolf
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Slip Into Avon
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Aldhèyx LM Parfums
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Garuda Jul et Mad Paris
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BESTIA GENTILE: pony leather FUMparFUM
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Alma Colecion Privada Misterious Oud La Martina
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Salvia Sclarea Tom Daxon
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Alma Colecion Privada Secret Wood La Martina
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Happy Spirit Bouquet d’Amour Chopard
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Kajal Homme Kajal
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Eau de Froehliche No. 3 Erik Kormann
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Coach the Fragrance Coach
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Gypsy Blood. Romano Rat Nimere Parfums
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Acquasala Maison Gabriella Chieffo
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Dubai Next to Me Ramon Monegal
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Tubereuse Imperiale Parfums BDK Paris
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Forever Lonkoom Parfum
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Junky Jardins d’Ecrivains
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Axis Mirage Axis
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DO ± Washi UER MI
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Santal Basmati Affinessence
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Skin Couture Signature Armaf
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Fig and Raspberry Nimere Parfums
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Floral Veil Grossmith
1.0640571252205
Goddess Nimere Parfums
1.0635905326279
Tellus Les Liquides Imaginaires
1.0632272821869
Iceni Boadicea the Victorious
1.0627776261023
Tempest Kemi Blending Magic
1.061404
Taiga Whispers Nimere Parfums
1.060606
Chypre 1930 YanFroloff Perfumer
1.0605808130511
Homem Essence Natura

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