Castoreum

lat. Castor fiber (Castoridae)

Group: MUSK, AMBER, ANIMALIC SMELLS

Castoreum Castor fiber (Castoridae)
Castoreum Castor fiber (Castoridae)
Castoreum Castor fiber (Castoridae)
Odor profile: very pungent and strong animal-derived note from the beaver, today synthetically recreated for ethical reasons. Smells leathery and very intense.

Castoreum in perfumery refers to the characteristic resinoid extract largely used as an animalistic note. The scent of castoreum is wild and bodily, lustful and passionate, bestowing the one who wears it a delicate aura of sensuality. This typical warm, carnal, and leather-like scent is actually a yellowish odoriferous oily secretion from the castor sac of the mature North American Beaver Castor canadensis and the European Beaver Castor fiber. The odor of castoreum is often described as sharp spreading a tar-like note that reminds of an odor of a birch tar or Russian leather. When diluted in alcohol, raw castoreum melts into more pleasant musky and fruity nuances.

Castoreum is derived from the Greek word Κάστωρ (Kastōr), meaning "beaver". Castor was also one of the Dioscuri/Gemini twins of Graeco-Roman mythology. Castor and  were twin brothers who shared a same mother but had different fathers. Pollux was immortal but Castor was not. When Castor died, Zeus heard Pollux’s prayer to share his immortality with dead brother, and transformed them both into stars joined together in the Gemini constellation. Although castoreum smells divinely, the true origin of the Greek word seems to be connected with a Sanskrit word for musk, which was kasturi.

Castoreum is mentioned in the works of the ancient commentators who mistakenly believed this musky substance is derived from the beaver’s testicles. In his tales, Aesop, the prominent Greek fabulist, retells the widespread hunter’s fallacy that cornered beaver bites off its own testicles, only to throw them to the hunter and so escape the death.

And beavers were verily hunted, not for their testicles but for their meat, their waterproof fur used to make hats, and also for their two anal glands present in both sexes, used to secrete sexual attractant. For this reason, castoreum was even used as an aphrodisiac, to seduce and attract the opposite sex by its pure and sensual animalistic vital force.


It is known in materia medica as a remedy for headache, fever, and hysteria. Even the Paracelsus, a Swiss Renaissance physician, botanist, alchemist, astrologer and occultist, teaches about this odoriferous oil as a cure for epilepsy. There is no evidence to support the claim that castoreum worked as a traditional remedy, but we do know that beavers feed on the inner bark of willow tree, which contains salicylic acid, chemically similar to the active component of aspirin.

In more recent times, at the beginning of the 20th century, castoreum obtained from the beavers’ sacs was still being used for luxury perfumes. But even much before, by the 16th century, this animal had been hunted to extinction in Scotland. The custom of killing an animal to obtain the scented oil was brutal and cruel, unfitting to fine goods such as perfumes. Today, it has been replaced by chemically synthesized castoreum, which is completely obtained from the laboratory. The synthetic castoreum echoes through many prominent perfumery creations such as Shalimar by Guerlain, Emeraude by Coty, Magie Noire by Lancôme, Antaeus by Chanel, Givenchy III by Hubert de Givenchy, Colonia Russa by Santa Maria Novella, and many others.

Image of Castor and Pollux from V&A Search the Collections

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Castoreum Perfumes

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Lacrima Les Liquides Imaginaires
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Antaeus Chanel
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Tcharas La Via del Profumo
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Opium Yves Saint Laurent
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Gandhara Neil Morris
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Ambra di Luna Ramon Monegal
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Werewolf Lumberjack Reclining on a Bearskin Rug Smell Bent
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Signor Vivara Emilio Pucci
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Black Adamant G Parfums
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Paloma Picasso Paloma Picasso
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Yatagan Caron
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The Hermit Esscentual Alchemy
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Labdanum 18 Perfume Oil Le Labo
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Otter Luvr Smell Bent
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Chypre 1950 YanFroloff Perfumer
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Gringo La Via del Profumo
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Winter Woods Sonoma Scent Studio
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Peau de Bete Les Liquides Imaginaires
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Afrika Olifant Nishane
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Cuir de Russie Art Deco Perfumes
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Jil Sander Man I (Man Pure) Jil Sander
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Pour Homme Ted Lapidus
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Absolute Aphrodisiac Initio Parfums Prives
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Atramental Room 1015
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Tigre Du Bengale Malbrum Parfums
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Love DSH Perfumes
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Fauna Regime des Fleurs
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Kemi Kemi Blending Magic
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Knize Ten Knize
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Andron for Men Jovan
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Ettore Bugatti Diana De Silva
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Body Language House of Matriarch
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Great Britain Roja Dove
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Youth Memory The Fragrance Kitchen
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Baptême du Feu Serge Lutens
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Amouage Epic Man Amouage
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Ambrarem Histoires de Parfums
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№ 5 Anna Zworykina Perfumes
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Midnight Oud Juliette Has A Gun
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Beaver 2016 Zoologist Perfumes
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Cologne Bensimon 1993 Bensimon
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Tabac Blanc Roberta Andrade
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Vinegia The Merchant of Venice
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Pearl Oud By Kilian
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Honey and Tar Anna Zworykina Perfumes
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Nebula 1 Oliver & Co.
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Black Stone Anna Zworykina Perfumes
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Labdanum 18 Le Labo
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Red Leather PK Perfumes
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Couleurs de Nuit Novaya Zarya
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Dark Velvet Isabelle Ariana Parfums
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Audax Fortes Esscentual Alchemy
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Quality Of Flesh Homoelegans
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Marbert Woman Marbert
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Sulphur [16S] One of Those
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