Leather

Group: MUSK, AMBER, ANIMALIC SMELLS

Leather
Leather
Leather
Odor profile: Synthetic or naturally derived note of pungent characteristics reminiscent of cured hides and leather goods. Usually rendered by birch tar or by synth isoquinolines.

The distinct smell of leather is soft on the nostrils and yet so exciting. The rich leather scent evokes memories of the best moments in life, it comforts by its proximity to the body and excites at the same time, being so primitive, so natural, and again so sensual.



The scent of leather lies in the midline between masculine and feminine tones. Historically, leather is one of the earliest notes in perfumery, rooted in the tradition of Gantiers Parfumeurs, a guild of Parisian glove makers who made leather gloves for the aristocracy. According to the fashion of the 16th century, the gloves were perfumed with oils, musk, ambergris and civet, to mask the nauseating breath of animal skin. Due to the tanning process, the raw skin doesn’t smell so good, and this re-odorized scent is actually what today describes our notion of the smell of leather.


The first officially documented leather scent was worn by King George III - The Royal English Leather. This fragrance, still available today, was the first fragrance created by Creed, a royal glove maker. The king was so fond of the smell of scented gloves that he asked Creed to make it a body fragrance.
 

The roots of leather perfumery reach all the way back in the past to the tradition of leather scenting, when the flowery fragrances were used to mask the organic odor. Historically, the leather fragrances emerged from two major schools, dividing into the Russian leather types and the Spanish leather types.
 

Russian leather scents are inspired by the smell of the military garments and their strong impression of virtue, authority, and success. The Russian leather scent has a very sharp and characteristic aroma, owing to the birch tar, which was used to make the leather goods waterproof and elastic. This note became very popular as women’s scent, at the time of women’s emancipation. In the history of perfumery, the early 20’s are marked by a large number of fragrances, launched by different homes, called Cuir de Russie.

But it was the Spanish leather scent that emerged from the 16th century practice of scenting chamois with the essence of herbs, flowers and fruits, in harmony with civet and musk. Peau d’Espagne (Spanish skin), a fruit of traditional practice of leather scenting, remains a prominent notion even in the modern perfumery. The leather note used in perfumery is therefore, an artificial scent, created as a crossbreed of flowers and skin. The genuine leather, a material treated by perfume, is an organic compound made of animal skins that normally has an unpleasant smell.


Today, the reproduction of the leather odor is achieved by using naturally derived scents as well as those synthesized in a lab. Natural sources include birch, juniper and cade oil, styrax, cassie, castoreum, myrtle, and cistus labdanum. To achieve this strong animalistic note, perfumers also use notes created in the laboratory: quinolines, safraleine, aldehydes, and synthesized suede nuances. For warmer and smoother tones, such as the soft deer leather smell, the birch scent is dissolved in vanilla or floral notes.


Today the nuances of leather (powdery, light, dusty, sharp, woody, floral, etc.) are hard to classify into the distinct categories. Russian and Spanish leather are just echoes from the past. Even when the perfumes are named after these smells, the inspiration is driven from the old days. In our day, there is no obsession for leather neither in Russia nor in Spain.
 

When Arabian ingredients came into fashion, we became acquainted with the variant of Arabian leather, which is typically associated with strong and sharp spicy nuances. Perfect examples are Serge Lutens, Parfum d`Empire and Montale.

Leather fragrances of different brands, especially those in the leather industry, are very much appreciated and often used to promote the brand and its products. One of the most prominent examples is the house of Hermes and their leather fragrances.

This house was first established as a harness workshop that created the finest leather accessories specially designed for riders. It was not until later that the company shifted to production of handbags and other pieces of ladies’ and men’s gallantry. Their leather fragrances smell just like their fine line of products. Trussardi fragrances share the same savor.

Guerlain also came out with an interesting variant of a leather scent – Guir Beluga – light and powdery leather fragrance, whose animalistic notes melt into the finest flowers. Variations of leather fragrances are endless, but their essence is always recognizable. It contains something that attracts people, not only as a scent but also as a notion which, at different times and in different cultures meant both diverse and the same things – freedom, prestige, power and sensuality.

RUSSIAN LEATHER:

 


Author: Marina Milojević (Mary)
Fragrantica Writer, Translator & Editor

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leather Perfumes

1.5235385197256
Fahrenheit Christian Dior
1.501372212693
Russian Leather Demeter Fragrance
1.500914808462
Metal Hurlant Pierre Guillaume
1.5008004574042
Divine Attraction Initio Parfums Prives
1.5008004574042
Riding Crop Demeter Fragrance
1.5007432818754
S. Excès Homme Eudora
1.5007432818754
Farkas Alkemia Perfumes
1.5006289308176
Rue Royale Hové Parfumeur, Ltd.
1.5005717552887
Professor Portland General Store
1.5005145797599
Couro. Leather Natura
1.5005145797599
Centaure Cuir Etalon Pierre Cardin
1.500457404231
Elsha Elsha
1.5004002287021
Pure Leather The Merchant of Venice
1.5003430531732
Saddle Demeter Fragrance
1.5003430531732
Lemon Cowboy Smell Bent
1.5002858776444
Monsieur Couturier Jean Couturier
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Cuir6 Pekji
1.5002858776444
Leather N10Z Intense
1.5002287021155
Electric Leather Aziza World Fragrances
1.5001715265866
Boris Bidjan Saberi Boris Bidjan Saberi
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Jackeroo Bud Parfums
1.5001715265866
Tobacco Portland General Store
1.5001143510577
Hussar Aquaflor Firenze
1.5001143510577
Habanera Hové Parfumeur, Ltd.
1.5001143510577
True Grit Milton Lloyd
1.5001143510577
Wander Lust Pirouette
1.5000571755289
The Haunted Paragon Perfumes
1.5000571755289
Leather Romane
1.5000571755289
Cuir Absolu Elie Saab
1.5
Alkimia Uomo Guru Scent
1.5
RE Music de Parfum
1.5
Tabacco Extreme Il Profumiere
1.5
Whoa De Cologne Bud Parfums
1.5
Malaysian Suyufi Agarwood Oil Majid Muzaffar Iterji
1.5
Black Daniel Hechter
1.5
Solo Yanbal
1.5
Royal Oriental RoseMary
1.5
Old Leather CB I Hate Perfume
1.5
Leather of Dahman S.Ishira
1.4939873670669
Axe Instinct Axe
1.4801848987993
Comme des Garcons Series 6 Synthetic: Garage Comme des Garcons
1.4742557552887
Day For Night Prada
1.4737411755289
Shazi Khalis
1.4697163853631
Tuscan Leather Tom Ford
1.4522367667238
Black Bvlgari
1.4516089308176
Violet Tendencies Smell Bent
1.444444
Conciergerie 12 Parfumeurs Francais
1.4416013333333
Shalimar Guerlain
1.4377287021155
Dark Tobacco No. 23 The Master Perfumer
1.4375
Chasseur de Béotie Parfums Sophiste
1.428571
Double Dare Prada
1.4191195797599
Whip Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.4183029868496
Armani Code Giorgio Armani
1.4148003184677
1 Million Absolutely Gold Paco Rabanne
1.4070059148085
Ferme tes Yeux Jar Parfums
1.4005717552887
Tartar Leather La Via del Profumo
1.4002858776444
White Leather N°17 The Master Perfumer
1.4001715265866
No. 1 Six Scents
1.4001143510577
Her Excellency White Estevia Parfum
1.4
Eau de Cologne Our Legacy
1.3959645780446
Colonia Leather Eau de Cologne Concentrée Acqua di Parma
1.3898704945683
Joop! Homme Sexy In Pink Joop!
1.3847865265866
Eau de Bruxelles Libertin Louison Technique Indiscrete
1.3846758479131
London for Men Burberry
1.3830361755289
Diavolo Club Antonio Banderas
1.3759719839909
Leather Oud Dua Fragrances
1.3753430531732
Simply Jil Sander Touch of Leather Jil Sander
1.3752287021155
Next To Me Ramon Monegal
1.3752287021155
Rose Leather Solstice Scents
1.3751143510577
Afdak Nabeel
1.375
Black Essential Avon
1.3691642818754
Dee Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.3665972818754
Heir Susan D. Owens
1.3651797392796
Oud 777 Stéphane Humbert Lucas 777
1.3638647021155
PARIS: She met him in secret Anthropologie
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Tea House Neil Morris
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Midnight in Paris Van Cleef & Arpels
1.3597172818754
Montmartre Morph
1.3588333464837
Dior Homme Parfum Christian Dior
1.3581414939966
Cuir d`Ange Hermes
1.3579577209834
1 Million Paco Rabanne
1.3553897392796
Cuir Blanc Givenchy
1.3532993773585
Royal English Leather Creed
1.3530553510577
Aoud 2 M. Micallef
1.3529981755289
Club 6 VIP Eudora
1.3527182441395
Ombre Leather 16 Tom Ford
1.3524547604345
Private Affairs Baldessarini
1.3521514574042
Pierre Cardin Collection Cuir Intense Pierre Cardin
1.3520076009148
Clubman Special Reserve Pinaud Clubman
1.3520043882218
Joop! Homme Extreme Joop!
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Black Rosette Strange Invisible Perfumes
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Blow Up La Folie a Plusieurs
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Dark Rose SP Parfums Sven Pritzkoleit
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Eau Sauvage Fraicheur Cuir Christian Dior
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Bottega Veneta Bottega Veneta
1.3394532818754
Joop! Homme Black King Joop!
1.3394035797599
Just Cavalli Him Roberto Cavalli
1.3380317004002
Duro Nasomatto
1.3380213933676
Sienna Crabtree & Evelyn
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Kelly Caleche Hermes
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Gibbon's Boarding School Solstice Scents
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Sex Tape The Bohemian Society
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Kolnisch Juchten Parfums Regence
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Moto Oud Blackbird
1.333790404231
Musk for Men Avon
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Endeavor Abercrombie & Fitch
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Diavolo Privato Antonio Banderas
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Evolution Musk DSH Perfumes
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Marte Collezione Privata Cuoio & Patchouly Battistoni
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The Ripper Lindo Ganarin
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Grey Quartz Pascal Morabito
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Une Vie en Or pour Homme Frederic M
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Sergey Gubanov for Him Sergey Gubanov
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Charlotte Sweet Anthem Perfumes
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Iconic Merhis Perfumes
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Flirt Iris Ed Pinaud
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Yubiley Severnoye Siyanie
1.333333
Crash CIEL Parfum
1.3323251217839
Noble Leather Yves Saint Laurent
1.3320396678102
Spicebomb Viktor&Rolf
1.3303445528874
Gomma Etro
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In The Library CB I Hate Perfume
1.3277234574042
Obscuro Santa Eulalia
1.3253419148085
O Blood Concept
1.3243553024585
Aoud Cuir d’Arabie Montale
1.3227479782733
Irish Leather Memo Paris
1.3223925688965
Pi Extreme Givenchy
1.3217708616352
Fragonard F! Fragonard
1.3213216700972
Bucoliques de Provence L`Artisan Parfumeur
1.3191117392796
Be The Legend Oriflame
1.3186706432247
Leather Monotheme Fine Fragrances Venezia
1.3182963510577
Dior Passage No.8 Christian Dior
1.3179376220698
Homme Xerjoff
1.3160748776444
Sara Pezzini Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab
1.3160748776444
Cromo Natura
1.3159033510577
Sardonics 2 Novaya Zarya
1.3137922372784
Kelly Caleche Eau de Parfum Hermes
1.3129002287021
Og Mirko Buffini Firenze
1.3126381103488
Aoud Leather Montale
1.3106880531732
Deadwood Alkemia Perfumes
1.3104490051458
The Original Gap
1.309524
NO ± Suede UER MI
1.3092294305317
Aleksandr Arquiste
1.3079207021155
Warm Perique Tabac Voluspa
1.3078063510577
Mabon Botanical Parfum Fleurage
1.307692
Dymok Cologne Alye Parusa
1.3052565265866
Fil de Soie L`Atelier Boheme
1.3049769308176
Larrea La Curie
1.3045145797599
Leather Oudh Al Haramain Perfumes
1.3032999039451
The Cobra and The Canary Imaginary Authors

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